I now own my first truck. A Dodge 2500 turbo diesel. A friend reccommended i have an exhaust brake and a "chip" installed to help with performance. I also visited with a local mechanic and he further suggested i have my muffler removed and use "straight piping exhaust" Not being mechanical at all and not understand any of this, can any of you out there give me some advice? Thanks Al Viscardi

As far as a "chip" for your Dodge I would sugggest a Edge products EZ. Great chip for towing and also great for when you are not towing. Mine pulls great when towing without overpowering the stock componets of your truck.My fuel mileage also improved a little over 2 MPG both loaded and unloaded( that could depend on how heavy your right foot is).As for removing the muffler and running a straight pipe do us and yourself  a big favor and forget that advise. The noise is unbearable. That being said changing to a 4 inch exhaust system would benefit you in lower exhaust gas temps which are very important in a diesel engine. The right system will not be much louder than stock.Depending on the year of your Dodge you may already have the 4 inch exhaust. Also consider guages to monitor transmission temp( if automatic)and exhaust gas temp. As for the brake I've heard as many pro's as con's. Maybe some more experienced RVers can shed light on that.

Our diesel pusher motorhome is equipped with an exhaust brake which I use all the time.  It helps in city driving by slowing you down approaching stoplights which saves wear on your service brakes.  It's also extremely important on downgrades to prevent overheating of your service brakes and it allows your engine temperature to drop while going downhill.  The book warns not to use the exhaust brake on wet and slippery surfaces which could result in over-braking and loss of traction.

I hope our future pickup truck for towing will have this same setup.  Right now I'm leaning towards the Chevy/GMC 3500 with Duramax and Allison 6-speed trans with electronic engine grade braking and tow/haul mode.  Haven't driven one yet, so we will have to test drive one soon.  Does anyone have this setup and if so how well does it work?

 

Just make sure you understand that any time you put a performance chip in a vehicle, you void your warranty for the engine, if they see it. If you have any problems with the engine, it could show up on the computer that you added a chip, and that would void your warranty. That being said, openning the exhaust will imporve your performance. I run a Ford 250 six leater diesel with a catalitic converter with the muffler removed. It is very quiet, except when you really get on it, it sounds like a big block V8. Anything to imporve the air flow in and out of the engine will help with the performance. There again, just be careful that you don't void your warranty.

Paul

You should try pulling with your truck first and see if you are happy with it's performance. It may be quite sufficient. Chips definetly up the power on a diesel and is the best way to improve it's power. Diesels are all about breathing and removing the muffler and cat really help smooth out the flow. BUT depending on the truck it is very likely you have and oxygen sensor on the cat and soon as you disconnect it you will probably start getting codes. I would look at that as a last resort for power. The exhaust brake is a huge addition to your vehicle. It will greatly reduce the use of service brakes and lengthen the life of them by at least 50%. The exhaust brake can keep your speed where you want to be without the use of brakes during downhill runs. It is more of a saftey factor. Imagine you get yourself on a steep grade and have to use the brakes to slow the rig down, if you ride the brakes to much you will overheat them and cause them to fade, now imagine your are blarring down a steep incline and your brakes are no longer of any use..........get the point. The exhaust brake uses the engine compression to slow the vehicle down. It makes good use of the exhaust and saves the brakes for emergency stopping. You won't be disappointed if you buy one.

As for voiding the warranty, it is a touch subject with the dealer, they would have to prove the programmer caused the damage. Problem is they have more money than you do and guess who will eventually go broke fighting it? Best to remove it before getting service done. I don't know about the computer knowing it was installed. We have the Duramax and the claim by most is that they can not tell. It's all a guess but safest to remove so there won't be any question. Believe me mechanics are going to go looking for things that they aren't working on. I saw on one of the Diesel forums the other day that a guy went to the dealer and complained of poor power and they offered to install a programmer! Go figure.

Al,

I have been working through similar questions for the last couple of years.  After combing the forums, attending LOW and talking to their experts, I have concluded that a few of the things you mention should be done.  I think of primary importance is the exhaust brake.  I pull a 13000 lb fiver in the mountains of Idaho.  Before installing an exhaust brake on my 2002 F250 diesel, I had a lot of trouble keeping it slowed down on the steep mountain grades, to the point of warping the rotors on my front brakes.  Not good.  After truing the rotors and installing a BD exhaust brake, I don't even need to touch my brakes going down those same grades. I was told that if I installed one that my warranty would be voided.  Well, I decided to install one anyway, safety being foremost in my mind.  The main reason that there are warranty issues is because the use of an exhaust break increases transmission temperatures, so the experts strongly advise installing a torque converter lock up in addition to the exhaustbrake. 

Torque Convertor lock-up is when the two halves of the convertor (turbine and pump) are spinning at the same speed. To make the convertor more efficient there is a lockup clutch that applies and locks the two halves together. This will transfer more of the power to the ground. This will also help to lower the temperatures in the transmission. After market guages that monitor engine temp and trans temp are important. 

 

AutoLoc (BD Diesel brand) is a computer that commands the torque convertor lock-up clutch to stay applied when the exhaust brake is engaged. This allows 100% of the retarding force to be transferred in 3rd and 4th gears, and, transmission oil temperatures remain low because convertor slippage no longer occurs in these gears. The lock-up clutch and brake automatically disengages once below 25 mph.

 

gomer

               

I recently sold my motorhome with a 300hp CAT engine and exhaust brake. My wife and I purchased a fifth wheel and a GMC 3500 pickup with a D/A. Using the tow mode when going down hill works almost a well a an exhaust brake on the motorhome. Before towing the trailer I had been thinking about putting on an exhaust brake but after a recent 1,500 mile trip to Southern Calif. I think I would be wasting my money to install one. I leave the transmission in tow mode all the time when towing and have been very pleased with the performance of the Durmax/Allison combination.

My Dodge dealer is installing and recommending exhaust brakes on anything that's going to be towing heavy trailers. I asked them about chips and couldn't get a definite yes or no on that. Was told it would maybe void the warranty if they thought the chip caused the problem. Back to the exhaust brake, it saved my bacon when the trailer brake controller quit working because of a loose wire. Coming down I-70 into Denver with a 14000 lb. trailer and no brakes was a piece of cake with the exhaust braking holding us back at 40 mph. Wouldn't tow without one.

DZ, the brakes not working on the trailer is the exact reason anyone should put an exhaust brake on. I also had a brake issue when my plug came part way out somehow. Fortunately for me we were on flat ground. Everyone is correct in their thinking that the brakes will stop the trailer...................IF they are working!