I have a 2017 drv mobile suite coupled to a 2017 f350 super duty equipped with the factory brake controller. I've pulled about 5000 miles with no issues. Hooked and unhooked many times. This week end we hooked up to take a trip. No Brakes!! The truck shows to be connected and shows 10.0 gain. No brakes I show to have voltage at the plug. The ground connections at the neck of the trailer look good, as do the connections of all the wires in the trailer j- box. Any help is appreciated
Bill and Linda said
05:27 PM Sep 26, 2017
Texun wrote:
I have a 2017 drv mobile suite coupled to a 2017 f350 super duty equipped with the factory brake controller. I've pulled about 5000 miles with no issues. Hooked and unhooked many times. This week end we hooked up to take a trip. No Brakes!! The truck shows to be connected and shows 10.0 gain. No brakes I show to have voltage at the plug. The ground connections at the neck of the trailer look good, as do the connections of all the wires in the trailer j- box. Any help is appreciated
Pull the breakaway lanyard such that the plastic plunger comes all the way out of the female receptacle - the one that has a little cable that you connect to the truck in case the trailer separates from the truck. When that is is pulled out the trailer brake actuator pump should operate on its own. Listen to hear it run assuming you know where it is. If it does run, then it is "good." If not, then the brake controller actuator - the one in the trailer - might be defective and / or there is a blown fuse somewhere.
Pulling the break-away switch, when stopped, is a good way to check the trailer brake actuator. But don't leave this "out" for extended periods. The pump motor is not designed to run continuously.
If all of this is confusing, then find someone who knows about such things to help.
Bill
Texun said
06:06 PM Sep 26, 2017
Thanks I'll try this 1st thing tomorrow. Do you have a suggestion as to where the pump is located? There are a lot of hydraulics in the battery compartment, but I assume this is the leveling jacks and slide outs.
Cummins12V98 said
08:44 AM Sep 27, 2017
I highly suggest you "become one" with your brake system top to bottom! Be sure to check fluid level often!!! Also be sure to keep the caliper slide bolts and other contact points properly lubricated.
hostage said
09:29 AM Sep 27, 2017
those are a PM items you have posted the fellow is complaining that his brakes are non functional two entirely different subjects
Cummins12V98 wrote:
I highly suggest you "become one" with your brake system top to bottom! Be sure to check fluid level often!!! Also be sure to keep the caliper slide bolts and other contact points properly lubricated.
Bill and Linda said
02:23 PM Sep 27, 2017
Texun wrote:
Thanks I'll try this 1st thing tomorrow. Do you have a suggestion as to where the pump is located? There are a lot of hydraulics in the battery compartment, but I assume this is the leveling jacks and slide outs.
Brake hydraulics and slide hydraulics are two independent systems. No connection whatsoever. The brake controller could be anywhere even on the same brand of trailer but usually in the front or side compartment. I suggest you consult someone more familiar with RV braking systems. Brakes are too important not to. With full respect, your question above seems to indicate you are not familiar with RV braking systems enough to really trouble shoot this problem. Apologies if that is not the case.
I am assuming the trailer does have disc hydraulic brakes simply because most DRV's have them due to size.
Having said all of the above, it is possible the truck does not recognize the hydraulic brake controller in the trailer. The truck should be set for electric over hydraulic brakes. Even if this is set properly the Ford may still not recognize the trailer hydraulic controller and a separate module is required in the trailer to solve this issue. Not an uncommon problem. Or it could be a blown fuse.
Best to seek some professional advice on this one to pin down the exact issue.
Bill
Texun said
03:29 PM Sep 27, 2017
Bill & Linda,
Thank you for your advise. Even though I've been towing rvs and trailers in general for 30 years, I must admit this is my first experience with electric over hydraulic brakes. Now what I've found..... first I tried your suggestion regarding the "break away" switch. The pump came on. I followed the sound, now I know where the pump is located.... in the basement next to the water filter and water manifold. I checked the fluid level. It was extremely low. I filled the reservoir. I crawled under the unit to check for obvious leaks at the calipers. No leaks. I rigged a jumper to run the pump while I checked for leaks none were found, and the pump changed sounds, indicating to me that it was pressuring up. I did not stop here. I checked the trailer plug terminals. They seemed to be loose. Possibly not making a good connection to the truck. I bought a complete new 6' pigtail assembly and changed out the one that came on the trailer. Did I mention the unit is only 6 months old and my truck is new as well. Next I began checks on the truck. The fuses are good. The manual says the brake controller is compatible with EOH brakes. I went back to checking voltage output with a fluke meter. Everything checked out. I still was baffled. So I hooked up for a road test. Everything worked as it should. All I can figure is the low fluid level was the culprit. Or a bad connection at the plug.I know I should bleed the brakes, and plan to do this before getting back on the road. It's sad to spend over a 100k on a trailer and have to work on it. I ve also had AC problems and had to change the winegard travler1000. Both were covered by warranty. Just lots of aggravation . I am enjoying this site and thanks again for your advise.
Bruce and Robin said
08:42 AM Sep 28, 2017
It's great you found the problem. Just as an FYI, there is a DRV Owners Facebook site that is really helpful and some really great people. Someone will respond very quickly if you ever have any future issues with your new DRV. It is a private group for DRV owners but easy to get approved. Folks on this site are great too, as you have found out. Bill, Neil, Ron C., and many others to name just a few. They have all helped me in many areas of RVing. I appreciate them all.
-- Edited by Bruce and Robin on Thursday 28th of September 2017 08:43:20 AM
Bill and Linda said
03:48 PM Sep 29, 2017
Texun wrote:
Bill & Linda, Thank you for your advise. Even though I've been towing rvs and trailers in general for 30 years, I must admit this is my first experience with electric over hydraulic brakes. {Edit} The manual says the brake controller is compatible with EOH brakes. I went back to checking voltage output with a fluke meter. Everything checked out. I still was baffled. So I hooked up for a road test. Everything worked as it should. All I can figure is the low fluid level was the culprit. Or a bad connection at the plug.I know I should bleed the brakes, and plan to do this before getting back on the road. It's sad to spend over a 100k on a trailer and have to work on it. I ve also had AC problems and had to change the winegard travler1000. Both were covered by warranty. Just lots of aggravation . I am enjoying this site and thanks again for your advise.
Yea, they say that and still don't work. Depends on the type of hydraulic actuator in the trailer. "Ask me how I know this" more than once.
May I say in regard to this - "It's sad to spend over a 100k on a trailer and have to work on it. " As I am off to say sarcastically: "Don't think you are somehow special" to have these problems. Welcome to the forum and the "Now what?" club. {Grin}
Bill
Texun said
12:58 PM Oct 1, 2017
Now I certainly feel like the ultimate dummy. For the last decade at least, I've used maintenance free batteries. Well..... I've completely cooked a set of $300.00 deep cycle "wet cell" 6-volt batteries in my new Mobile Suites. You just can't fix stupid ! Ugh!
Bill and Linda said
01:33 PM Oct 1, 2017
Texun wrote:
Now I certainly feel like the ultimate dummy. For the last decade at least, I've used maintenance free batteries. Well..... I've completely cooked a set of $300.00 deep cycle "wet cell" 6-volt batteries in my new Mobile Suites. You just can't fix stupid ! Ugh!
OK, Bob, now that you fessed up, tell others what you did wrong so they can learn. We all do things wrong from time to time or have an "event" sometimes of our own doing, sometimes stuff just happens. Hence the phase you will hear from time-to-time from me and others, "Ask me how I know this." :)
Bill
Texun said
08:49 PM Oct 1, 2017
What I did wrong... was simply being lazy and not doing proper maintenance. I let the batteries go completely dry. I bought the new Mobile Suites in February and never checked the batteries till now. Guess I thought NEW meant I didn't need to do any maintenance. I suggest checking the batteries at least monthly for electrolyte levels in the cells also check and clean terminal connections as needed. While installing the new batteries, I installed a"Pro-Fill" on board battery watering system. I believe this gadget will be a major asset in battery maintence. If you elect to use this system, don't forget the hand pump, which sells separately. Don't forget a jug of distilled water. We pretty much "Full Time". In 8 months we've only been home 2 weeks, and even then, I keep the RV plugged up and everything running. So there you go ..... expensive mistake.
Terry and Jo said
07:27 PM Oct 3, 2017
Bob,
Interestingly enough, our Mobile Suites is a 2010, which we took delivery of in May of that year. We are still on the same four (we have a 3000 watt inverter) original batteries, and all I have done is check them irregularly. I last checked them last month after more than a year and the plates in the cells were still covered, although a little bit low.
I am no expert on such things, but could one's converter be overcharging batteries?
Terry
Terry and Jo said
07:30 PM Oct 3, 2017
hostage wrote:
those are a PM items you have posted the fellow is complaining that his brakes are non functional two entirely different subjects
Cummins12V98 wrote:
I highly suggest you "become one" with your brake system top to bottom! Be sure to check fluid level often!!! Also be sure to keep the caliper slide bolts and other contact points properly lubricated.
Hostage,
I know Cummins and I suspect his comment was just an FYI and doesn't need to be criticized as you have done. Such are common comments on the forums here, and those comments are generally greatly appreciated.
Terry
Bill and Linda said
08:31 AM Oct 9, 2017
Texun wrote:
What I did wrong... was simply being lazy and not doing proper maintenance. I let the batteries go completely dry. I bought the new Mobile Suites in February and never checked the batteries till now. Guess I thought NEW meant I didn't need to do any maintenance. I suggest checking the batteries at least monthly for electrolyte levels in the cells also check and clean terminal connections as needed. While installing the new batteries, I installed a"Pro-Fill" on board battery watering system. I believe this gadget will be a major asset in battery maintence. If you elect to use this system, don't forget the hand pump, which sells separately. Don't forget a jug of distilled water. We pretty much "Full Time". In 8 months we've only been home 2 weeks, and even then, I keep the RV plugged up and everything running. So there you go ..... expensive mistake.
Bob, do make sure the charger for your battery bank is set properly for the type and size along with other parameters. It is very common for the rig OEM's to install the chargers / inverters and just leave all the settings at "factory default." Factory default can ruin a set of batteries if the settings are wrong. Seen this many times - really. So suggest you get out the book and make sure all those settings are specific to your equipment; especially if its a Magnum or the like unit that has great flexibility to be tuned to specific batteries and AH capacity. (And great capability to murder a battery bank if improperly setup.)
I have a 2017 drv mobile suite coupled to a 2017 f350 super duty equipped with the factory brake controller. I've pulled about 5000 miles with no issues. Hooked and unhooked many times. This week end we hooked up to take a trip. No Brakes!! The truck shows to be connected and shows 10.0 gain. No brakes I show to have voltage at the plug. The ground connections at the neck of the trailer look good, as do the connections of all the wires in the trailer j- box. Any help is appreciated
Pull the breakaway lanyard such that the plastic plunger comes all the way out of the female receptacle - the one that has a little cable that you connect to the truck in case the trailer separates from the truck. When that is is pulled out the trailer brake actuator pump should operate on its own. Listen to hear it run assuming you know where it is. If it does run, then it is "good." If not, then the brake controller actuator - the one in the trailer - might be defective and / or there is a blown fuse somewhere.
Pulling the break-away switch, when stopped, is a good way to check the trailer brake actuator. But don't leave this "out" for extended periods. The pump motor is not designed to run continuously.
If all of this is confusing, then find someone who knows about such things to help.
Bill
Brake hydraulics and slide hydraulics are two independent systems. No connection whatsoever. The brake controller could be anywhere even on the same brand of trailer but usually in the front or side compartment. I suggest you consult someone more familiar with RV braking systems. Brakes are too important not to. With full respect, your question above seems to indicate you are not familiar with RV braking systems enough to really trouble shoot this problem. Apologies if that is not the case.
I am assuming the trailer does have disc hydraulic brakes simply because most DRV's have them due to size.
Having said all of the above, it is possible the truck does not recognize the hydraulic brake controller in the trailer. The truck should be set for electric over hydraulic brakes. Even if this is set properly the Ford may still not recognize the trailer hydraulic controller and a separate module is required in the trailer to solve this issue. Not an uncommon problem. Or it could be a blown fuse.
Best to seek some professional advice on this one to pin down the exact issue.
Bill
Thank you for your advise. Even though I've been towing rvs and trailers in general for 30 years, I must admit this is my first experience with electric over hydraulic brakes. Now what I've found..... first I tried your suggestion regarding the "break away" switch. The pump came on. I followed the sound, now I know where the pump is located.... in the basement next to the water filter and water manifold. I checked the fluid level. It was extremely low. I filled the reservoir. I crawled under the unit to check for obvious leaks at the calipers. No leaks. I rigged a jumper to run the pump while I checked for leaks none were found, and the pump changed sounds, indicating to me that it was pressuring up. I did not stop here. I checked the trailer plug terminals. They seemed to be loose. Possibly not making a good connection to the truck. I bought a complete new 6' pigtail assembly and changed out the one that came on the trailer. Did I mention the unit is only 6 months old and my truck is new as well. Next I began checks on the truck. The fuses are good. The manual says the brake controller is compatible with EOH brakes. I went back to checking voltage output with a fluke meter. Everything checked out. I still was baffled. So I hooked up for a road test. Everything worked as it should. All I can figure is the low fluid level was the culprit. Or a bad connection at the plug.I know I should bleed the brakes, and plan to do this before getting back on the road. It's sad to spend over a 100k on a trailer and have to work on it. I ve also had AC problems and had to change the winegard travler1000. Both were covered by warranty. Just lots of aggravation . I am enjoying this site and thanks again for your advise.
It's great you found the problem. Just as an FYI, there is a DRV Owners Facebook site that is really helpful and some really great people. Someone will respond very quickly if you ever have any future issues with your new DRV. It is a private group for DRV owners but easy to get approved. Folks on this site are great too, as you have found out. Bill, Neil, Ron C., and many others to name just a few. They have all helped me in many areas of RVing. I appreciate them all.
-- Edited by Bruce and Robin on Thursday 28th of September 2017 08:43:20 AM
Yea, they say that and still don't work. Depends on the type of hydraulic actuator in the trailer. "Ask me how I know this" more than once.
May I say in regard to this - "It's sad to spend over a 100k on a trailer and have to work on it. " As I am off to say sarcastically: "Don't think you are somehow special" to have these problems. Welcome to the forum and the "Now what?" club. {Grin}
Bill
OK, Bob, now that you fessed up, tell others what you did wrong so they can learn. We all do things wrong from time to time or have an "event" sometimes of our own doing, sometimes stuff just happens. Hence the phase you will hear from time-to-time from me and others, "Ask me how I know this." :)
Bill
Bob,
Interestingly enough, our Mobile Suites is a 2010, which we took delivery of in May of that year. We are still on the same four (we have a 3000 watt inverter) original batteries, and all I have done is check them irregularly. I last checked them last month after more than a year and the plates in the cells were still covered, although a little bit low.
I am no expert on such things, but could one's converter be overcharging batteries?
Terry
Hostage,
I know Cummins and I suspect his comment was just an FYI and doesn't need to be criticized as you have done. Such are common comments on the forums here, and those comments are generally greatly appreciated.
Terry
Bob, do make sure the charger for your battery bank is set properly for the type and size along with other parameters. It is very common for the rig OEM's to install the chargers / inverters and just leave all the settings at "factory default." Factory default can ruin a set of batteries if the settings are wrong. Seen this many times - really. So suggest you get out the book and make sure all those settings are specific to your equipment; especially if its a Magnum or the like unit that has great flexibility to be tuned to specific batteries and AH capacity. (And great capability to murder a battery bank if improperly setup.)
Bill