I recently bought a 2003 NuWa 32 foot Hitchiker II. It has the original 5th wheel pin box. I would like to upgrade to a newer or better one. Which would y9ou suggest? I am new to RVing and want to make sure it is safe.
Cummins12V98 said
11:06 AM Oct 6, 2016
I like the TrailAire air bag pin box. It will extend forward your pin same with the MORryde but it just absorbs fore and aft.
Judy L said
03:40 PM Oct 8, 2016
NuWa has a great owner's forum that you might want to check out at <nuwaowners.org/forum/>. They're always happy to hear from new members and I think you'll find them very knowledgeable and helpful with all things NuWa.
RonC said
08:23 AM Oct 9, 2016
I don't have any MorRyde products (yet), but they are very highly respected by most of the folks on this forum. When the time comes, I will likely go to MorRyde for their IS suspension and possibly their pin box. Not to suggest there aren't other good products, but I don't think you can go wrong with MorRyde.
Trikester said
09:03 AM Oct 9, 2016
On our Summit we have a MorRyde pinbox we like. We also like our MorRyde IS suspension.
-- Edited by Trikester on Sunday 9th of October 2016 09:05:10 AM
The Schweitzers on the road said
10:59 PM Oct 9, 2016
5th Airborne (Reese) was a great improvement with our fifth wheel. Helped a lot to dampen the up and down movements, not so much for back and forth.
I would tow the Hitchhiker a couple of times and check out what bothers you most: up and down or back and forth.
If up and down is the issue get one of the airbag pin boxes, if it's about back and forth go Mor/Ryde.
Second Chance said
07:01 AM Oct 10, 2016
You can't go wrong with either the Trailair or MOR/ryde pin boxes. We have the MOR/ryde independent suspension and agree that they are a first-rate company. We have a Demco Glide Ride pin box, however, because we use an Andersen Ultimate hitch and the Demco was recommended because of kingpin plate action on the other two.
Rob
RonC said
08:16 AM Oct 10, 2016
Rob,
Did you get your MorRyde IS installed aftermarket? If so, could you describe the process a little?
Cummins12V98 said
11:36 AM Oct 10, 2016
"In addition to the sturdy jaw, the Companion has durable polyurethane bushings built in to provide a smoother, more comfortable towing experience. These bushings sit on top of the pivot arms that support the fifth-wheel head. Because the head is resting on a padded area, it is able to pivot without clanking. The ability of the head to pivot - both front to back and side to side - along with the trailer also helps to limit the chucking that may occur with a more static hitch."
There is also a mini shock absorber to help with head side to side movement.
I have hitched and unhitched several times an inlaws RAM Q25 same as the Q24 and it's not always easy. He said he wished he had the B&W after seeing how easy it is to hitch and unhitch with no "Color Coding" but the RAM hitch was in the truck when he bought it off the lot.
That's my personal experience with the Curt and B&W products for RAM's with factory puck system.
My advice for anyone in the market is to COMPARE side by side!
Bill and Linda said
11:55 AM Oct 10, 2016
For those reading along - perhaps for overall information - a few observations from multiple experiences FWIW:
First - most like what they have. Normal reaction and that's good. But have they used anything else?
We've found it really does depend on the rig and truck as a combination as to what works best for a particular combination.
We've had 4 different pin boxes and 4 different hitches in various combinations on two 5ers and 3 trucks. The first trailer was what I call moderately heavy - ~18K. The second I classify as heavy - way over 20K. The trucks were two 3500HD's and now a 5500HD with a full, automatic air-ride rear axle. No springs. Huge difference right there.
We've had two air-ride pin boxes - 5th Airborne (by trade name) and a TrailAir (no Glideride); a fixed pin pox and a MOR/ryde pin box. We've had 4 hitches in the trucks - 3 different Reese designs and a Q24 made by Curt.
What we found was this FWIW: On a trailer less than about 18K, due to the lessor associated pin weight, the MOR/ryde pin box was best without question. I'd still use it on a trailer up to 20K but only if the truck had true air-suspension (not just helper bags) or a Comfort Ride or TrailerSaver type hitch in the truck. I want the vertical component to protect the trailer frame. (I know a lot of people use TrailerSaver, partially because they were almost the only game in town for a while, partially because some trailer manufactures sold them. But I personally am not a fan of the TrailerSaver although when hitched it works quite well. It's heavy, expensive and harder to hitch and un-hitch in comparison to the other brand. But to those that have them - fine and good. But they are more difficult and complicated. "Ask me how I know this" by personal experience and comparison over an extended period of time - like 3 months of continuous travel.
If I used the MOR/ryde pin box on the ~18K or so, or less weight trailer, which I would, I'd go with either the Reese R20 or the Curt Q24 as both have shock abortion design. This makes a big difference including to some extent the vertical component. However, having used both over extended distances we've found the Q24 does a better shock absorption job simply due to its design. But both are superior to the "fixed" hard truck hitches and both hitch and un-hitch very easy. (Yes, to those that have them, the B&K is an excellent hitch. It just has no shock absorption capability according to the manufacture.)
Once one gets close to the 20K number or over an air-ride pin box (or hitch) is, IMO, an absolute requirement to best protect the trailer's frame and the driver and passenger's bodies. Take a big bump, like on a bridge joint with a heavy trailer and you will, with a non-air-ride pin box / hitch, know what I mean. The truck could well "bottom out" the suspension and hit the suspension bump stops. A non-pleasant experience for the rig and people up front. One could break something.
What we are using now is the best ride Linda and I have had in the last 130,000 odd towing miles. It's actually pretty amazing for a rig this heavy. It's an amazingly pleasant ride. But I'm not trying to sell "my" combination. As I said, it really does depend. Those who think what they have is the absolute best - great. Not trying to have that discussion. But the exact same combination on another rig may be terrible. Again, to quote a friend: "Ask me how I know this."
Just my experiences.
Finally, please keep in mind all of the above comments are for trailers at or below 24K. To my personal knowledge there are no air-ride pin boxes above a 24K rating. So above that number one must go to an air-ride hitch in the truck.
Bill and Linda said
02:36 PM Oct 10, 2016
RonC wrote:
Rob,
Did you get your MorRyde IS installed aftermarket? If so, could you describe the process a little?
Rob can please chime in as well and I trust he will. But I had one done after market. Make an appointment and discuss what you currently have in place to verify they have a unit to fit your particular "wings" as the mounting sides are called. Not all are the same. They offer an overnight place to park with 50 amps only. Show up at the appointed time and they take your old pin box off and put on the new one with the rubber "spring" size based on the weight of your trailer. For the most part it's just six or so bolts to make the change. If your interested - Rob Kolen - (574) 293-1581 Ext 256. Nice guy and has provided good service to many of us. Ask him about scheduling and coming in the night before, etc. We find that works well.
If your in the Elkhart area I'd have it done at the factory so you can discuss the IS suspension, etc. for the future just to have that information in hand. But it can be done at any competent shop. Just recommend you speak with Rob at the plant no matter what to make sure you get the right size rubber spring. That's critical to best operation. They can be changed fairly easily but good to get it right the first time.
Second Chance said
04:35 PM Oct 10, 2016
RonC wrote:
Rob,
Did you get your MorRyde IS installed aftermarket? If so, could you describe the process a little?
Sorry for the delayed response... it was a "road day" and we've just gotten settled in and supper going.
Yes - our trailer came with Lippert's "Correct Track" solid axle/leaf spring suspension system. I had preliminary discussions with Rob at MOR/ryde in Elkhart by email and then by phone. When we knew what dates we could be up there, Rob made the appointment with us. Installing the I.S. and disc brakes is usually a two-day job, so we were set up for the work to be done on a Thursday and Friday. We pulled in mid-afternoon Wednesday (just as some folks we know from the Grand Design Owners' forum were pulling out). Was was supposed to happen was for us to back into one of their 50-amp-only slots and wait for 0600 Thursday morning. What actually happened was, since L.C. and his wife had just pulled out, we were directed to a large flat parking area for measurements (height, level, distance between axles, etc.) and then backed into the empty service bay slot L.C. had just vacated. We were provided with 30 amp electric while in the bay so we could run one AC, the frig, electronics, etc.
Now for the part Laura didn't like (I didn't mind it at all). There are operations around the clock at the service location (they assemble axles and other things in another part of the building) so there was some noise. The suspension specialists also start work at 0600 in the morning, which meant we had to be up and out by then. For two mornings it's a very "doable" thing and MOR/ryde provides a very nice lounge complete with a well-stocked Keurig coffee maker, sticky buns and other things to get us jump-started as well as a frig with juices, water and sodas. Both days, they ordered in very nice lunches for those of us who were hanging around, too.
Now, to what you really want to hear about: we could not have asked for a nicer or more competent technician than Sergio. Of course, the minute my wife started speaking Spanish with him, the relationship took several steps up the ladder. Anyway, Sergio had gone over my most recent Escapees SmartWeigh numbers and selected the appropriate sheer springs the day before. We had also discussed which bearings I wanted, etc. So that first morning Sergio immediately got to work cutting the old suspension system out from under the trailer. The appropriate sizes of rectangular steel were selected for the suspension sub-frame (to mount the I.S. to) and that was fabricated and welded to the trailer frame. While Sergio was working on suspension stuff, a man who does brake and electrical work was installing the brake lines, hydraulic pump, and interface module. At the end of the first day, Sergio had the final specs to give the axle fabricators who finished up the axles overnight (they're not really axles, but it's the easiest thing I can come up with to call them).
The next morning, Sergio (with some help, I'm sure) set about fitting and welding the axle assemblies in place. When that was done, the rest of the day was spent aligning everything, filling, flushing, and adjusting the brakes, neatening everything up, etc. By about 1400 hrs (2:00 PM), Sergio and I were in the rig for a test drive.
We could not have had a more pleasant experience for this type of work. I've had to hit the brakes quickly several times since having the discs and the difference compared to the old drum brakes is night-and-day. The trailer is also MUCH more stable and, with the wheels properly aligned, tires will last much longer. We actually picked up 1 - 1-1/2 MPG fuel economy (alignment and the trailer tracking straighter).
I would insert some images I have but I don't have an image hosting account anywhere (I can email them to you if you want to PM me you email address). Please let me know if you have questions I didn't answer.
Rob
RonC said
05:32 PM Oct 10, 2016
Thanks ... I get the travel day thing. Sounds like it was a very well done, professional installation. I'm certain we will have that same service done to our rig, probably around "tire replacement time" as I am also leaning toward the 17.5" wheel and tire replacement using Goodyear G114's. That will be an expensive couple of days😬
-- Edited by RonC on Monday 10th of October 2016 05:40:11 PM
-- Edited by RonC on Monday 10th of October 2016 05:40:49 PM
Cummins12V98 said
09:31 PM Oct 10, 2016
GREAT place to do business with. Had 3" risers added to get the RV rising level. We already had the 8K MORryde IS System.
I have a hard time seeing 1.5mpg gain in fuel economy. Tires had to be wearing out in just a few thousand miles if that were the case. But hey I could be wrong.
Second Chance said
08:25 AM Oct 11, 2016
Cummins12V98 wrote:
GREAT place to do business with. Had 3" risers added to get the RV rising level. We already had the 8K MORryde IS System.
I have a hard time seeing 1.5mpg gain in fuel economy. Tires had to be wearing out in just a few thousand miles if that were the case. But hey I could be wrong.
You are not wrong, Cummins. The right front spindle/axle was bent so badly that there was almost an inch of toe-in and the outer 1/3 of the tire was bald in a few thousand miles. In addition, the trailer was not tracking straight prior to the I.S. Before the installation, I could see the entire side wall of the trailer on one side in the rear view mirrors - and none of the other side. After the installation and Hunter alignment, I see just a little bit of both sides - and equally. In an airplane, we call it side slip and use the maneuver to quickly bleed off airspeed and lose altitude. The side of a 36' fifth wheel certainly presents more wind resistance than the fuselage of a small airplane...
Rob
Bill and Linda said
08:50 AM Oct 11, 2016
RonC wrote:
I'm certain we will have that same service done to our rig, probably around "tire replacement time" as I am also leaning toward the 17.5" wheel and tire replacement using Goodyear G114's. That will be an expensive couple of days😬
You will not regret this. Keep an existing "G" as a spare. It will work fine with the "H" tires if you ever need it - which I doubt based on over 100,000 miles with the G114 tires.
Bill and Linda said
09:00 AM Oct 11, 2016
Second Chance wrote:
Now, to what you really want to hear about: we could not have asked for a nicer or more competent technician than Sergio. Of course, the minute my wife started speaking Spanish with him, the relationship took several steps up the ladder. Anyway, Sergio had gone over my most recent Escapees SmartWeigh numbers and selected the appropriate sheer springs the day before. We had also discussed which bearings I wanted, etc. So that first morning Sergio immediately got to work cutting the old suspension system out from under the trailer. The appropriate sizes of rectangular steel were selected for the suspension sub-frame (to mount the I.S. to) and that was fabricated and welded to the trailer frame. While Sergio was working on suspension stuff, a man who does brake and electrical work was installing the brake lines, hydraulic pump, and interface module. At the end of the first day, Sergio had the final specs to give the axle fabricators who finished up the axles overnight (they're not really axles, but it's the easiest thing I can come up with to call them).
The next morning, Sergio (with some help, I'm sure) set about fitting and welding the axle assemblies in place. When that was done, the rest of the day was spent aligning everything, filling, flushing, and adjusting the brakes, neatening everything up, etc. By about 1400 hrs (2:00 PM), Sergio and I were in the rig for a test drive.
We could not have had a more pleasant experience for this type of work. I've had to hit the brakes quickly several times since having the discs and the difference compared to the old drum brakes is night-and-day. The trailer is also MUCH more stable and, with the wheels properly aligned, tires will last much longer. We actually picked up 1 - 1-1/2 MPG fuel economy (alignment and the trailer tracking straighter).
Sergio is one of the nicest and most competent people I have ever had the pleasure to meet. He will not be rushed to get the work done. He does things his way - the right way - but will always consult one of the engineers "up stairs" if necessary. Yes, they have for real engineers at MOR/ryde and they actually come to the shop for consultation if required. MOR/ryde is a lot more than a axle shop.
Linda and I have many stories of the kindness and competence Sergio has shown us over many years, now over 10. He comes to meet us with a big smile, a handshake and an appropriate hug for Linda. Then says, "Now, what are we going to do for you this time." Always a pleasure - in spite of the trains.
Bill
Cummins12V98 said
09:44 AM Oct 11, 2016
Second Chance wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
GREAT place to do business with. Had 3" risers added to get the RV rising level. We already had the 8K MORryde IS System.
I have a hard time seeing 1.5mpg gain in fuel economy. Tires had to be wearing out in just a few thousand miles if that were the case. But hey I could be wrong.
You are not wrong, Cummins. The right front spindle/axle was bent so badly that there was almost an inch of toe-in and the outer 1/3 of the tire was bald in a few thousand miles. In addition, the trailer was not tracking straight prior to the I.S. Before the installation, I could see the entire side wall of the trailer on one side in the rear view mirrors - and none of the other side. After the installation and Hunter alignment, I see just a little bit of both sides - and equally. In an airplane, we call it side slip and use the maneuver to quickly bleed off airspeed and lose altitude. The side of a 36' fifth wheel certainly presents more wind resistance than the fuselage of a small airplane...
Rob
YIKES, that was BAD! Nice to have quality components under the rig now.
RonC said
10:29 AM Oct 11, 2016
Bill and Linda wrote:
RonC wrote:
I'm certain we will have that same service done to our rig, probably around "tire replacement time" as I am also leaning toward the 17.5" wheel and tire replacement using Goodyear G114's. That will be an expensive couple of days😬
You will not regret this. Keep an existing "G" as a spare. It will work fine with the "H" tires if you ever need it - which I doubt based on over 100,000 miles with the G114 tires.
Bill ... my G614's are on 16" wheels. I'm not sure that would work as a spare. Of course, I'm thinking of my current axle set up ... with mor/Ryde IS, a slightly different sized wheel and tire really wouldn't be a problem as a spare ... just to get to a repair facility.
-- Edited by RonC on Tuesday 11th of October 2016 10:32:27 AM
-- Edited by RonC on Tuesday 11th of October 2016 10:33:46 AM
-- Edited by RonC on Tuesday 11th of October 2016 10:34:05 AM
Bill and Linda said
10:46 AM Oct 11, 2016
RonC wrote:
Bill and Linda wrote:
RonC wrote:
I'm certain we will have that same service done to our rig, probably around "tire replacement time" as I am also leaning toward the 17.5" wheel and tire replacement using Goodyear G114's. That will be an expensive couple of days😬
You will not regret this. Keep an existing "G" as a spare. It will work fine with the "H" tires if you ever need it - which I doubt based on over 100,000 miles with the G114 tires.
Bill ... my G614's are on 16" wheels. I'm not sure that would work as a spare. Of course, I'm thinking of my current axle set up ... with mor/Ryde IS, a slightly different sized wheel and tire really wouldn't be a problem as a spare ... just to get to a repair facility.
-- Edited by RonC on Tuesday 11th of October 2016 10:32:27 AM
-- Edited by RonC on Tuesday 11th of October 2016 10:33:46 AM
-- Edited by RonC on Tuesday 11th of October 2016 10:34:05 AM
You can put an 8 bolt 16" wheel with a G614 on it next to an 8 bolt 17.5" wheel with a G114 on it without a problem - not a clearance issue. Done this for real when I lost a Nev-R-Lub bearing which locked up and destroyed the G114 which did NOT loose air or come apart and damage the trailer. Tread was just "drug off" down to the steel cords. But it held air and didn't damage the trailer. You can do this because of the only 1/2" EFFECTIVE diameter difference between the 17.5" "H" vs. 16" "G" tires when mounted. For a spare tire it is fine. Have 3,300 miles of travel once in this configuration to confirm this fact. A choice, but I don't carry an "H" spare anymore simply, admittedly, to save a lot of money among some other more complicated spare parts benefits. But it works fine and is safe.
Arcticman60 said
08:14 PM Oct 13, 2016
Thank you all for the great input for my question.
I recently bought a 2003 NuWa 32 foot Hitchiker II. It has the original 5th wheel pin box. I would like to upgrade to a newer or better one. Which would y9ou suggest? I am new to RVing and want to make sure it is safe.
On our Summit we have a MorRyde pinbox we like. We also like our MorRyde IS suspension.
-- Edited by Trikester on Sunday 9th of October 2016 09:05:10 AM
5th Airborne (Reese) was a great improvement with our fifth wheel. Helped a lot to dampen the up and down movements, not so much for back and forth.
I would tow the Hitchhiker a couple of times and check out what bothers you most: up and down or back and forth.
If up and down is the issue get one of the airbag pin boxes, if it's about back and forth go Mor/Ryde.
You can't go wrong with either the Trailair or MOR/ryde pin boxes. We have the MOR/ryde independent suspension and agree that they are a first-rate company. We have a Demco Glide Ride pin box, however, because we use an Andersen Ultimate hitch and the Demco was recommended because of kingpin plate action on the other two.
Rob
Did you get your MorRyde IS installed aftermarket? If so, could you describe the process a little?
There is also a mini shock absorber to help with head side to side movement.
I have hitched and unhitched several times an inlaws RAM Q25 same as the Q24 and it's not always easy. He said he wished he had the B&W after seeing how easy it is to hitch and unhitch with no "Color Coding" but the RAM hitch was in the truck when he bought it off the lot.
That's my personal experience with the Curt and B&W products for RAM's with factory puck system.
My advice for anyone in the market is to COMPARE side by side!
For those reading along - perhaps for overall information - a few observations from multiple experiences FWIW:
First - most like what they have. Normal reaction and that's good. But have they used anything else?
We've found it really does depend on the rig and truck as a combination as to what works best for a particular combination.
We've had 4 different pin boxes and 4 different hitches in various combinations on two 5ers and 3 trucks. The first trailer was what I call moderately heavy - ~18K. The second I classify as heavy - way over 20K. The trucks were two 3500HD's and now a 5500HD with a full, automatic air-ride rear axle. No springs. Huge difference right there.
We've had two air-ride pin boxes - 5th Airborne (by trade name) and a TrailAir (no Glideride); a fixed pin pox and a MOR/ryde pin box. We've had 4 hitches in the trucks - 3 different Reese designs and a Q24 made by Curt.
What we found was this FWIW: On a trailer less than about 18K, due to the lessor associated pin weight, the MOR/ryde pin box was best without question. I'd still use it on a trailer up to 20K but only if the truck had true air-suspension (not just helper bags) or a Comfort Ride or TrailerSaver type hitch in the truck. I want the vertical component to protect the trailer frame. (I know a lot of people use TrailerSaver, partially because they were almost the only game in town for a while, partially because some trailer manufactures sold them. But I personally am not a fan of the TrailerSaver although when hitched it works quite well. It's heavy, expensive and harder to hitch and un-hitch in comparison to the other brand. But to those that have them - fine and good. But they are more difficult and complicated. "Ask me how I know this" by personal experience and comparison over an extended period of time - like 3 months of continuous travel.
If I used the MOR/ryde pin box on the ~18K or so, or less weight trailer, which I would, I'd go with either the Reese R20 or the Curt Q24 as both have shock abortion design. This makes a big difference including to some extent the vertical component. However, having used both over extended distances we've found the Q24 does a better shock absorption job simply due to its design. But both are superior to the "fixed" hard truck hitches and both hitch and un-hitch very easy. (Yes, to those that have them, the B&K is an excellent hitch. It just has no shock absorption capability according to the manufacture.)
Once one gets close to the 20K number or over an air-ride pin box (or hitch) is, IMO, an absolute requirement to best protect the trailer's frame and the driver and passenger's bodies. Take a big bump, like on a bridge joint with a heavy trailer and you will, with a non-air-ride pin box / hitch, know what I mean. The truck could well "bottom out" the suspension and hit the suspension bump stops. A non-pleasant experience for the rig and people up front. One could break something.
What we are using now is the best ride Linda and I have had in the last 130,000 odd towing miles. It's actually pretty amazing for a rig this heavy. It's an amazingly pleasant ride. But I'm not trying to sell "my" combination. As I said, it really does depend. Those who think what they have is the absolute best - great. Not trying to have that discussion. But the exact same combination on another rig may be terrible. Again, to quote a friend: "Ask me how I know this."
Just my experiences.
Finally, please keep in mind all of the above comments are for trailers at or below 24K. To my personal knowledge there are no air-ride pin boxes above a 24K rating. So above that number one must go to an air-ride hitch in the truck.
Rob can please chime in as well and I trust he will. But I had one done after market. Make an appointment and discuss what you currently have in place to verify they have a unit to fit your particular "wings" as the mounting sides are called. Not all are the same. They offer an overnight place to park with 50 amps only. Show up at the appointed time and they take your old pin box off and put on the new one with the rubber "spring" size based on the weight of your trailer. For the most part it's just six or so bolts to make the change. If your interested - Rob Kolen - (574) 293-1581 Ext 256. Nice guy and has provided good service to many of us. Ask him about scheduling and coming in the night before, etc. We find that works well.
If your in the Elkhart area I'd have it done at the factory so you can discuss the IS suspension, etc. for the future just to have that information in hand. But it can be done at any competent shop. Just recommend you speak with Rob at the plant no matter what to make sure you get the right size rubber spring. That's critical to best operation. They can be changed fairly easily but good to get it right the first time.
Sorry for the delayed response... it was a "road day" and we've just gotten settled in and supper going.
Yes - our trailer came with Lippert's "Correct Track" solid axle/leaf spring suspension system. I had preliminary discussions with Rob at MOR/ryde in Elkhart by email and then by phone. When we knew what dates we could be up there, Rob made the appointment with us. Installing the I.S. and disc brakes is usually a two-day job, so we were set up for the work to be done on a Thursday and Friday. We pulled in mid-afternoon Wednesday (just as some folks we know from the Grand Design Owners' forum were pulling out). Was was supposed to happen was for us to back into one of their 50-amp-only slots and wait for 0600 Thursday morning. What actually happened was, since L.C. and his wife had just pulled out, we were directed to a large flat parking area for measurements (height, level, distance between axles, etc.) and then backed into the empty service bay slot L.C. had just vacated. We were provided with 30 amp electric while in the bay so we could run one AC, the frig, electronics, etc.
Now for the part Laura didn't like (I didn't mind it at all). There are operations around the clock at the service location (they assemble axles and other things in another part of the building) so there was some noise. The suspension specialists also start work at 0600 in the morning, which meant we had to be up and out by then. For two mornings it's a very "doable" thing and MOR/ryde provides a very nice lounge complete with a well-stocked Keurig coffee maker, sticky buns and other things to get us jump-started as well as a frig with juices, water and sodas. Both days, they ordered in very nice lunches for those of us who were hanging around, too.
Now, to what you really want to hear about: we could not have asked for a nicer or more competent technician than Sergio. Of course, the minute my wife started speaking Spanish with him, the relationship took several steps up the ladder. Anyway, Sergio had gone over my most recent Escapees SmartWeigh numbers and selected the appropriate sheer springs the day before. We had also discussed which bearings I wanted, etc. So that first morning Sergio immediately got to work cutting the old suspension system out from under the trailer. The appropriate sizes of rectangular steel were selected for the suspension sub-frame (to mount the I.S. to) and that was fabricated and welded to the trailer frame. While Sergio was working on suspension stuff, a man who does brake and electrical work was installing the brake lines, hydraulic pump, and interface module. At the end of the first day, Sergio had the final specs to give the axle fabricators who finished up the axles overnight (they're not really axles, but it's the easiest thing I can come up with to call them).
The next morning, Sergio (with some help, I'm sure) set about fitting and welding the axle assemblies in place. When that was done, the rest of the day was spent aligning everything, filling, flushing, and adjusting the brakes, neatening everything up, etc. By about 1400 hrs (2:00 PM), Sergio and I were in the rig for a test drive.
We could not have had a more pleasant experience for this type of work. I've had to hit the brakes quickly several times since having the discs and the difference compared to the old drum brakes is night-and-day. The trailer is also MUCH more stable and, with the wheels properly aligned, tires will last much longer. We actually picked up 1 - 1-1/2 MPG fuel economy (alignment and the trailer tracking straighter).
I would insert some images I have but I don't have an image hosting account anywhere (I can email them to you if you want to PM me you email address). Please let me know if you have questions I didn't answer.
Rob
Thanks ... I get the travel day thing. Sounds like it was a very well done, professional installation. I'm certain we will have that same service done to our rig, probably around "tire replacement time" as I am also leaning toward the 17.5" wheel and tire replacement using Goodyear G114's. That will be an expensive couple of days😬
-- Edited by RonC on Monday 10th of October 2016 05:40:11 PM
-- Edited by RonC on Monday 10th of October 2016 05:40:49 PM
I have a hard time seeing 1.5mpg gain in fuel economy. Tires had to be wearing out in just a few thousand miles if that were the case. But hey I could be wrong.
You are not wrong, Cummins. The right front spindle/axle was bent so badly that there was almost an inch of toe-in and the outer 1/3 of the tire was bald in a few thousand miles. In addition, the trailer was not tracking straight prior to the I.S. Before the installation, I could see the entire side wall of the trailer on one side in the rear view mirrors - and none of the other side. After the installation and Hunter alignment, I see just a little bit of both sides - and equally. In an airplane, we call it side slip and use the maneuver to quickly bleed off airspeed and lose altitude. The side of a 36' fifth wheel certainly presents more wind resistance than the fuselage of a small airplane...
Rob
You will not regret this. Keep an existing "G" as a spare. It will work fine with the "H" tires if you ever need it - which I doubt based on over 100,000 miles with the G114 tires.
Sergio is one of the nicest and most competent people I have ever had the pleasure to meet. He will not be rushed to get the work done. He does things his way - the right way - but will always consult one of the engineers "up stairs" if necessary. Yes, they have for real engineers at MOR/ryde and they actually come to the shop for consultation if required. MOR/ryde is a lot more than a axle shop.
Linda and I have many stories of the kindness and competence Sergio has shown us over many years, now over 10. He comes to meet us with a big smile, a handshake and an appropriate hug for Linda. Then says, "Now, what are we going to do for you this time." Always a pleasure - in spite of the trains.
Bill
YIKES, that was BAD! Nice to have quality components under the rig now.
Bill ... my G614's are on 16" wheels. I'm not sure that would work as a spare. Of course, I'm thinking of my current axle set up ... with mor/Ryde IS, a slightly different sized wheel and tire really wouldn't be a problem as a spare ... just to get to a repair facility.
-- Edited by RonC on Tuesday 11th of October 2016 10:32:27 AM
-- Edited by RonC on Tuesday 11th of October 2016 10:33:46 AM
-- Edited by RonC on Tuesday 11th of October 2016 10:34:05 AM
You can put an 8 bolt 16" wheel with a G614 on it next to an 8 bolt 17.5" wheel with a G114 on it without a problem - not a clearance issue. Done this for real when I lost a Nev-R-Lub bearing which locked up and destroyed the G114 which did NOT loose air or come apart and damage the trailer. Tread was just "drug off" down to the steel cords. But it held air and didn't damage the trailer. You can do this because of the only 1/2" EFFECTIVE diameter difference between the 17.5" "H" vs. 16" "G" tires when mounted. For a spare tire it is fine. Have 3,300 miles of travel once in this configuration to confirm this fact. A choice, but I don't carry an "H" spare anymore simply, admittedly, to save a lot of money among some other more complicated spare parts benefits. But it works fine and is safe.