My wife and I have been full timing in our 5er since June this year ( 2015 ). I was wondering what major parts would make sense to have on hand. I was thinking about water pumps and furnace fans etc. Specifically for a 2015 DRV Mobile Suite 38PS3. What is the life expectancy on some of those parts ? I don't want to get caught sometime with a mechanical break down in the middle of nowhere.
Is it worth carrying spares or just order when needed ?
Gary
Jim and Barb said
09:30 AM Dec 21, 2015
The water pump was the first thing to go out on ours and now carry and extra one.
The Bear II said
10:08 AM Dec 21, 2015
There's not much that we can't do without while we wait for a replacement part.
We've had a water pump fail, but was able to get a new one at a nearby RV supply.
The cooling unit went out on our refrigerator... we used ice chests until a new one was installed.
The control board for the refrigerator went out a couple of years later and again we used ice chests until I was able to get a new CPU shipped to us.
I don't carry spares (knock on wood). If we did a lot of boondocking in very remote areas, then I would consider some spares. We're usually less than a days drive to a city with some sort of RV repair or supply shop.
Bill and Linda said
10:25 AM Dec 21, 2015
Here is a “Spare Parts” thread that might be of interest:
In it I outline why I carry a spare water pump and also a spare 120 to 12 volt converter.Actually, I have the spare converter already wired-in so all I have to do is close two circuit breakers to put it on line.(No 12 volts: almost nothing in most trailers work.)
Lots of other little things noted in the thread, but think about the things that will cause you to be “no-go” or of great inconvenience.Be it a Mobile Suite, New Horizons, Jayco or Montana, etc., they all have the same basic systems that can cause a great deal of inconvenience.So if it’s small, and not too expensive, I carry one.
Bill
BiggarView said
10:53 AM Dec 21, 2015
Bill and Linda wrote:
Here is a “Spare Parts” thread that might be of interest:
In it I outline why I carry a spare water pump and also a spare 120 to 12 volt converter.Actually, I have the spare converter already wired-in so all I have to do is close two circuit breakers to put it on line.(No 12 volts: almost nothing in most trailers work.)
Lots of other little things noted in the thread, but think about the things that will cause you to be “no-go” or of great inconvenience.Be it a Mobile Suite, New Horizons, Jayco or Montana, etc., they all have the same basic systems that can cause a great deal of inconvenience.So if it’s small, and not too expensive, I carry one.
Bill
You would have been a great Navy storekeeper.
Cummins12V98 said
11:53 AM Dec 21, 2015
No spare parts, just keep it maintained with the ability to do so goes along way!
2016 39TKSB3 MobileSuites
-- Edited by Cummins12V98 on Monday 21st of December 2015 11:53:49 AM
TRAILERKING said
12:01 PM Dec 21, 2015
I am sure it can be "Overthunk" and carry an entire "Parts Room" and "Tool Room" with you. That's likely what I'll end up doing...........
JonRV said
02:07 PM Dec 21, 2015
Water pump and hose usually require ongoing maintenance for most rigs. Other than that it is really tough to guess.
Bill and Linda said
02:52 PM Dec 21, 2015
biggaRView wrote:
Bill and Linda wrote:
Here is a “Spare Parts” thread that might be of interest:
In it I outline why I carry a spare water pump and also a spare 120 to 12 volt converter.Actually, I have the spare converter already wired-in so all I have to do is close two circuit breakers to put it on line.(No 12 volts: almost nothing in most trailers work.)
Lots of other little things noted in the thread, but think about the things that will cause you to be “no-go” or of great inconvenience.Be it a Mobile Suite, New Horizons, Jayco or Montana, etc., they all have the same basic systems that can cause a great deal of inconvenience.So if it’s small, and not too expensive, I carry one.
Bill
You would have been a great Navy storekeeper.
Kind compliment accepted and moreover appreciate. Thank you.I would have been proud to serve there.I have been called a supply sergeant before. People laugh at me and then come over later to the rig saying, "have you got . . ." Sometimes I do. LOL
Neil and Connie said
03:46 PM Dec 21, 2015
Bill and Linda wrote:
biggaRView wrote:
Bill and Linda wrote:
Here is a “Spare Parts” thread that might be of interest:
In it I outline why I carry a spare water pump and also a spare 120 to 12 volt converter. Actually, I have the spare converter already wired-in so all I have to do is close two circuit breakers to put it on line. (No 12 volts: almost nothing in most trailers work.)
Lots of other little things noted in the thread, but think about the things that will cause you to be “no-go” or of great inconvenience. Be it a Mobile Suite, New Horizons, Jayco or Montana, etc., they all have the same basic systems that can cause a great deal of inconvenience. So if it’s small, and not too expensive, I carry one.
Bill
You would have been a great Navy storekeeper.
Kind compliment accepted and moreover appreciate. Thank you. I would have been proud to serve there. I have been called a supply sergeant before. People laugh at me and then come over later to the rig saying, "have you got . . ." Sometimes I do. LOL
I wouldn't be surprised if Bill could pretty much build a trailer out of his spare parts I've seen them and he carries more than most.
Anything you've had to repair that was a pain…consider having a spare. We have an extra door lock, water pump, bulbs, filters, bulbs, water heater anode, brake pads, no bearings since we have Never Lube. I also have a checkbook which is the most vital spare part one can carry.
Oh yeah…slide mechanism shear bolts…we've lost 3 of those over the past 3.5 years and I carry a half dozen spares for them. All have been on our heaviest Living Room slide…the galley is slightly longer but only goes out 18 inches or so instead of 40 or so for the Living Room and it has the flush floor thing so it tilts before coming in although I'm not sure that has anything to do with it. Broke the first one up in Canada 3 travel seasons back and had to call a repair guy…as soon as he showed me how to fix it I bought the spares. Had another one break last summer up in northern FL and just one this past week when we were replacing our slide topper fabric. We've learned to not level before putting the slides out. Once we get the front jacks down and unhitched we do slides and then rear jacks/level…somebody recommended we do it that way instead of leveling first and we haven't broken one since we started doing so…the one last week was with all down and leveled since we're parked for the winter.
Bill's idea of a permanently installed converter/charger isn't a bad idea…but we don't have one of those either.
Lucky Mike said
03:57 PM Dec 21, 2015
good smart phone with spare battery.........good charge card.......and a 12 pack for the guy I stopped to fix it !!!!
Bobc said
05:57 PM Dec 21, 2015
I would like to keep a spare Bill or Lucky Mike on board at all times.
I guess I would have to provide the check book also, unless they both work for beer or wine!
Terry and Jo said
08:07 PM Dec 21, 2015
4 1/2 years in our Mobile Suites and of the things you mentioned, the water pump is the only thing that has been replaced. We've wintered in cold areas since 2011 and have never had to work on our 2010's furnaces. Of course, it helps that we've supplemented our heating with a pair of Lasko electric heaters and the fireplace. That helps cut down on how much the furnaces have to run.
Now, keep in mind that we are pretty much "static" full-timers in that we don't move much at all. 3 years in OKC and 1 1/2 years in Colorado. If we need a repair, it is only about 15 to 20 miles away.
Terry
Gary Marcondes said
10:19 PM Dec 21, 2015
Neil and Connie wrote:
Bill and Linda wrote:
biggaRView wrote:
Bill and Linda wrote:
Here is a “Spare Parts” thread that might be of interest:
In it I outline why I carry a spare water pump and also a spare 120 to 12 volt converter. Actually, I have the spare converter already wired-in so all I have to do is close two circuit breakers to put it on line. (No 12 volts: almost nothing in most trailers work.)
Lots of other little things noted in the thread, but think about the things that will cause you to be “no-go” or of great inconvenience. Be it a Mobile Suite, New Horizons, Jayco or Montana, etc., they all have the same basic systems that can cause a great deal of inconvenience. So if it’s small, and not too expensive, I carry one.
Bill
You would have been a great Navy storekeeper.
Kind compliment accepted and moreover appreciate. Thank you. I would have been proud to serve there. I have been called a supply sergeant before. People laugh at me and then come over later to the rig saying, "have you got . . ." Sometimes I do. LOL
I wouldn't be surprised if Bill could pretty much build a trailer out of his spare parts I've seen them and he carries more than most.
Anything you've had to repair that was a pain…consider having a spare. We have an extra door lock, water pump, bulbs, filters, bulbs, water heater anode, brake pads, no bearings since we have Never Lube. I also have a checkbook which is the most vital spare part one can carry.
Oh yeah…slide mechanism shear bolts…we've lost 3 of those over the past 3.5 years and I carry a half dozen spares for them. All have been on our heaviest Living Room slide…the galley is slightly longer but only goes out 18 inches or so instead of 40 or so for the Living Room and it has the flush floor thing so it tilts before coming in although I'm not sure that has anything to do with it. Broke the first one up in Canada 3 travel seasons back and had to call a repair guy…as soon as he showed me how to fix it I bought the spares. Had another one break last summer up in northern FL and just one this past week when we were replacing our slide topper fabric. We've learned to not level before putting the slides out. Once we get the front jacks down and unhitched we do slides and then rear jacks/level…somebody recommended we do it that way instead of leveling first and we haven't broken one since we started doing so…the one last week was with all down and leveled since we're parked for the winter.
Bill's idea of a permanently installed converter/charger isn't a bad idea…but we don't have one of those either.
I never thought about the issue raised about when to level and when to put out the slides. We always level first. Are there any others out there with opinions on this ?
Gary
Terry and Jo said
07:53 AM Dec 22, 2015
On our 2010 Mobile Suites, I always level first before putting out slides. However, we have the hydraulic system for operating the slides, so there's not any gears and pinions, nor shear bolts should they bind. I'd check with DRV to see if the 2015's are in equipped with any gears and pinions. I'm thinking that the living and kitchen slides would be hydraulic, but with the 2015, I think they have the cable system. I don't know if there are gears and pinions with the cable system.
I'd think that leveling first would prevent any possibility of frame twist if one is on uneven ground.
Terry
Neil and Connie said
09:32 AM Dec 22, 2015
Terry and Jo wrote:
On our 2010 Mobile Suites, I always level first before putting out slides. However, we have the hydraulic system for operating the slides, so there's not any gears and pinions, nor shear bolts should they bind. I'd check with DRV to see if the 2015's are in equipped with any gears and pinions. I'm thinking that the living and kitchen slides would be hydraulic, but with the 2015, I think they have the cable system. I don't know if there are gears and pinions with the cable system.
I'd think that leveling first would prevent any possibility of frame twist if one is on uneven ground.
Terry
Terry, even with hydraulic slide mechanisms there are still usually gears, pinions and shear bolts unless there's a hydraulic cylinder at both ends of the slide, and trying to keep them in sync without any connecting gear is hard. The hydraulics just pushes a single cylinder in and out and is attached to the frame and one end of the slide. The slide itself still has (at least our New Horizons with Lippert mechanisms does) the rack and pinion assembly which holds up the weight of the slide. A connecting bar goes back to the equivalent rack and pinion on the other end of the slide to move it in and out as well. We looked at an Elite Suites during our purchase process and I believe they had the same basic Lippert mechanism as our New Horizons does.
I think even the cable slide mechanisms still have the rack/pinion/connecting gear combination…it's the only decent way to keep the movement of front and rear ends of the slide in sync.
I can't remember who made the recommendation…but it was one of my smart RVing friends and his thoughts are that when the rig is on the front jacks and wheels only the frame is less twisted and that leveling the rig actually can torque the frame a little…and it doesn't take much to bind the components in the slide slightly and cause binding which then makes the shear pin break.
As a mechanical engineer myself that sorta makes sense…but then the idea that if the rig is level the frame isn't twisted also sorta makes sense…I dunno. In any event…we've not broken 3 of the shear bolts, all on our living room slide (slightly shorter than the longer galley one but much deeper and it has up component of movement due to the flush floor design) and all broke when trying to move the slide with the rig leveled and the weight on the 4 jacks with some of the wheels off the ground or lightly loaded to get level. When doing slides then leveling for the past travel season…with about twice as many campgrounds and hence slide in/out cycles as is typical for us…didn't break any. Probably not a statistically valid sample yet but it seems to be working.
Now that I've written that of course I'm sure the next one that breaks will be without leveling.
Bill and Linda said
01:15 PM Dec 22, 2015
Neil and Connie wrote:
Terry and Jo wrote:
On our 2010 Mobile Suites, I always level first before putting out slides. However, we have the hydraulic system for operating the slides, so there's not any gears and pinions, nor shear bolts should they bind. I'd check with DRV to see if the 2015's are in equipped with any gears and pinions. I'm thinking that the living and kitchen slides would be hydraulic, but with the 2015, I think they have the cable system. I don't know if there are gears and pinions with the cable system.
I'd think that leveling first would prevent any possibility of frame twist if one is on uneven ground.
Terry
Terry, even with hydraulic slide mechanisms there are still usually gears, pinions and shear bolts unless there's a hydraulic cylinder at both ends of the slide, and trying to keep them in sync without any connecting gear is hard. The hydraulics just pushes a single cylinder in and out and is attached to the frame and one end of the slide. The slide itself still has (at least our New Horizons with Lippert mechanisms does) the rack and pinion assembly which holds up the weight of the slide. A connecting bar goes back to the equivalent rack and pinion on the other end of the slide to move it in and out as well. We looked at an Elite Suites during our purchase process and I believe they had the same basic Lippert mechanism as our New Horizons does.
I think even the cable slide mechanisms still have the rack/pinion/connecting gear combination…it's the only decent way to keep the movement of front and rear ends of the slide in sync.
I can't remember who made the recommendation…but it was one of my smart RVing friends and his thoughts are that when the rig is on the front jacks and wheels only the frame is less twisted and that leveling the rig actually can torque the frame a little…and it doesn't take much to bind the components in the slide slightly and cause binding which then makes the shear pin break.
As a mechanical engineer myself that sorta makes sense…but then the idea that if the rig is level the frame isn't twisted also sorta makes sense…I dunno. In any event…we've not broken 3 of the shear bolts, all on our living room slide (slightly shorter than the longer galley one but much deeper and it has up component of movement due to the flush floor design) and all broke when trying to move the slide with the rig leveled and the weight on the 4 jacks with some of the wheels off the ground or lightly loaded to get level. When doing slides then leveling for the past travel season…with about twice as many campgrounds and hence slide in/out cycles as is typical for us…didn't break any. Probably not a statistically valid sample yet but it seems to be working.
Now that I've written that of course I'm sure the next one that breaks will be without leveling.
Neil:
Actually it wasn’t one of your smart RVing friends, it was me.But that advice, and he proved it to me at the factory, was from a long term New Horizons factory tech who knew what he was talking about.Experience is a great educator.He knew his stuff.
It’s counter intuitive, but leveling, using hydraulic levelers, not blocks under the wheels, can actually can change the frame “plumb” just slightly and hence the big hole through which the slide body moves. Even the 6 point leveling ones. In fact that’s why they had to go to 6 point for some rigs – frame twist. (“Ask me how I know this.”) If you don’t move the slides in and out very often you may never see this.But you do, Neil, because like us your travel a lot and hence operate the slides.
Once he showed me what was happening, and demonstrated same, it made perfect sense to level front to back, put out the slides and then do the side-to-side leveling.It impacts the “super slide” mostly which is much deeper on a NH than most other brands and therefore has more opportunity and leverage to bind coming up over the “flat floor” lips. It's not a design issue. It's a fact of life issue. I had the same problem with multi-million dollar TV remote trucks we called "expandos."
As you commented, the NH slides for the Majestic and newer Summits are Lippert and they have hydraulics and gears, but no cables.
I’m not saying this procedure will never have a broken sheer bolt, but the results have been good since Tony showed me the best way to do this with the bigger slides.
Bill
Neil and Connie said
04:17 PM Dec 22, 2015
Bill and Linda wrote:
Actually it wasn’t one of your smart RVing friends, it was me.But that advice, and he proved it to me at the factory, was from a long term New Horizons factory tech who knew what he was talking about.Experience is a great educator.He knew his stuff.
I thought it mighta been…but wasn't sure and didn't want to accuse anybody unnecessarily. We've been doing it all this past travel season though…no broken bolts and we've done 3 with everything leveled out including the one last week when we were installing the slide topper fabric.
Bill and Linda said
04:45 PM Dec 22, 2015
Neil and Connie wrote:
Bill and Linda wrote:
Actually it wasn’t one of your smart RVing friends, it was me.But that advice, and he proved it to me at the factory, was from a long term New Horizons factory tech who knew what he was talking about.Experience is a great educator.He knew his stuff.
I thought it mighta been…but wasn't sure and didn't want to accuse anybody unnecessarily. We've been doing it all this past travel season though…no broken bolts and we've done 3 with everything leveled out including the one last week when we were installing the slide topper fabric.
To beat this horse a little more consider this FWIW:
When the rigs are constructed they are sitting on the wheels and the suspension along, usually, with a pin tripod up front.So as the rig is built and “squared up” the frame is put under load with two or three axles under it.Three in our case.
Now when it is leveled, even with 6 point jacks, they frame is supported in totally different places.So there will be some flexing no matter how big the I-beam and box beams are and therefore all the slides and the “holes” will be just a bit different as to “square” when jacked up.The clearances are actually pretty close on the NH or they wouldn’t seal as well as they do.
So, that’s the theory and it seem to hold water based on experience.Again, if one doesn’t move much the odds are a lot less of breaking a shear bolt or shear pin regardless of how you level.
Those reading along can take all this for what it is worth. But I’ve now been told by three different manufactures’ reps that this is how they recommend doing it.All that said, I carry four ¼-20, 1-1/2” Grade 8 bolts as Neil recommended. LOL I also carried spare shear pins for the previous rig.Still do.Someone will need them someday.
Bill and Linda said
08:55 AM Dec 23, 2015
If I may make the following comment about “spares.”Some don’t move very often and reside in the RV relatively close to a city for long periods of time.Others, like us, travel a lot and many times are not right down the street from a hardware store or an RV fixit shop.The style of travel and living has a lot to do with what we have as to spares.So much of what is said needs to be in taken in that context, IMO.
I’ve stated numerous times in posts that we travel a great deal including out of the country and into parts of the country where things are not as readily available. That can be I-40 BTW in New Mexico as easily as on the Alcan in Canada. (“Ask me how I know this.”) That’s why I carry a lot more spare parts, including believe it or not, spare wheel hubs, bearings, complete brake replacements and hydraulic lines along with all fluids.Don’t forget roof sealants and material for patching. Also spare truck fan belts, fluids, clamps, fuses, oil and fuel filters along with a spare jack.Yes, I needed the jack to bail out a friend who lost a trailer wheel bearing in the middle of nowhere Texas.
For someone who doesn’t move their rig very often all that is totally ridiculous.For us, it’s saved us a lot of trouble over the years. So for those reading along do keep all this in mind.What will be your style of RVing and how prepared do you need to be for that style?As always, “It depends.”
Hi all,
My wife and I have been full timing in our 5er since June this year ( 2015 ). I was wondering what major parts would make sense to have on hand. I was thinking about water pumps and furnace fans etc. Specifically for a 2015 DRV Mobile Suite 38PS3. What is the life expectancy on some of those parts ? I don't want to get caught sometime with a mechanical break down in the middle of nowhere.
Is it worth carrying spares or just order when needed ?
Gary
We've had a water pump fail, but was able to get a new one at a nearby RV supply.
The cooling unit went out on our refrigerator... we used ice chests until a new one was installed.
The control board for the refrigerator went out a couple of years later and again we used ice chests until I was able to get a new CPU shipped to us.
I don't carry spares (knock on wood). If we did a lot of boondocking in very remote areas, then I would consider some spares. We're usually less than a days drive to a city with some sort of RV repair or supply shop.
Here is a “Spare Parts” thread that might be of interest:
http://rv-dreams.activeboard.com/t60531319/what-do-you-carry-in-the-way-of-spare-parts/
In it I outline why I carry a spare water pump and also a spare 120 to 12 volt converter. Actually, I have the spare converter already wired-in so all I have to do is close two circuit breakers to put it on line. (No 12 volts: almost nothing in most trailers work.)
Lots of other little things noted in the thread, but think about the things that will cause you to be “no-go” or of great inconvenience. Be it a Mobile Suite, New Horizons, Jayco or Montana, etc., they all have the same basic systems that can cause a great deal of inconvenience. So if it’s small, and not too expensive, I carry one.
Bill
You would have been a great Navy storekeeper.
No spare parts, just keep it maintained with the ability to do so goes along way!
2016 39TKSB3 MobileSuites
-- Edited by Cummins12V98 on Monday 21st of December 2015 11:53:49 AM
Kind compliment accepted and moreover appreciate. Thank you. I would have been proud to serve there. I have been called a supply sergeant before. People laugh at me and then come over later to the rig saying, "have you got . . ." Sometimes I do. LOL
I wouldn't be surprised if Bill could pretty much build a trailer out of his spare parts
I've seen them and he carries more than most.
Anything you've had to repair that was a pain…consider having a spare. We have an extra door lock, water pump, bulbs, filters, bulbs, water heater anode, brake pads, no bearings since we have Never Lube. I also have a checkbook which is the most vital spare part one can carry.
Oh yeah…slide mechanism shear bolts…we've lost 3 of those over the past 3.5 years and I carry a half dozen spares for them. All have been on our heaviest Living Room slide…the galley is slightly longer but only goes out 18 inches or so instead of 40 or so for the Living Room and it has the flush floor thing so it tilts before coming in although I'm not sure that has anything to do with it. Broke the first one up in Canada 3 travel seasons back and had to call a repair guy…as soon as he showed me how to fix it I bought the spares. Had another one break last summer up in northern FL and just one this past week when we were replacing our slide topper fabric. We've learned to not level before putting the slides out. Once we get the front jacks down and unhitched we do slides and then rear jacks/level…somebody recommended we do it that way instead of leveling first and we haven't broken one since we started doing so…the one last week was with all down and leveled since we're parked for the winter.
Bill's idea of a permanently installed converter/charger isn't a bad idea…but we don't have one of those either.
I guess I would have to provide the check book also, unless they both work for beer or wine!
4 1/2 years in our Mobile Suites and of the things you mentioned, the water pump is the only thing that has been replaced. We've wintered in cold areas since 2011 and have never had to work on our 2010's furnaces. Of course, it helps that we've supplemented our heating with a pair of Lasko electric heaters and the fireplace. That helps cut down on how much the furnaces have to run.
Now, keep in mind that we are pretty much "static" full-timers in that we don't move much at all. 3 years in OKC and 1 1/2 years in Colorado. If we need a repair, it is only about 15 to 20 miles away.
Terry
I never thought about the issue raised about when to level and when to put out the slides. We always level first. Are there any others out there with opinions on this ?
Gary
On our 2010 Mobile Suites, I always level first before putting out slides. However, we have the hydraulic system for operating the slides, so there's not any gears and pinions, nor shear bolts should they bind. I'd check with DRV to see if the 2015's are in equipped with any gears and pinions. I'm thinking that the living and kitchen slides would be hydraulic, but with the 2015, I think they have the cable system. I don't know if there are gears and pinions with the cable system.
I'd think that leveling first would prevent any possibility of frame twist if one is on uneven ground.
Terry
Terry, even with hydraulic slide mechanisms there are still usually gears, pinions and shear bolts unless there's a hydraulic cylinder at both ends of the slide, and trying to keep them in sync without any connecting gear is hard. The hydraulics just pushes a single cylinder in and out and is attached to the frame and one end of the slide. The slide itself still has (at least our New Horizons with Lippert mechanisms does) the rack and pinion assembly which holds up the weight of the slide. A connecting bar goes back to the equivalent rack and pinion on the other end of the slide to move it in and out as well. We looked at an Elite Suites during our purchase process and I believe they had the same basic Lippert mechanism as our New Horizons does.
I think even the cable slide mechanisms still have the rack/pinion/connecting gear combination…it's the only decent way to keep the movement of front and rear ends of the slide in sync.
I can't remember who made the recommendation…but it was one of my smart RVing friends and his thoughts are that when the rig is on the front jacks and wheels only the frame is less twisted and that leveling the rig actually can torque the frame a little…and it doesn't take much to bind the components in the slide slightly and cause binding which then makes the shear pin break.
As a mechanical engineer myself that sorta makes sense…but then the idea that if the rig is level the frame isn't twisted also sorta makes sense…I dunno. In any event…we've not broken 3 of the shear bolts, all on our living room slide (slightly shorter than the longer galley one but much deeper and it has up component of movement due to the flush floor design) and all broke when trying to move the slide with the rig leveled and the weight on the 4 jacks with some of the wheels off the ground or lightly loaded to get level. When doing slides then leveling for the past travel season…with about twice as many campgrounds and hence slide in/out cycles as is typical for us…didn't break any. Probably not a statistically valid sample yet but it seems to be working.
Now that I've written that of course I'm sure the next one that breaks will be without leveling
.
Neil:
Actually it wasn’t one of your smart RVing friends, it was me. But that advice, and he proved it to me at the factory, was from a long term New Horizons factory tech who knew what he was talking about. Experience is a great educator. He knew his stuff.
It’s counter intuitive, but leveling, using hydraulic levelers, not blocks under the wheels, can actually can change the frame “plumb” just slightly and hence the big hole through which the slide body moves. Even the 6 point leveling ones. In fact that’s why they had to go to 6 point for some rigs – frame twist. (“Ask me how I know this.”) If you don’t move the slides in and out very often you may never see this. But you do, Neil, because like us your travel a lot and hence operate the slides.
Once he showed me what was happening, and demonstrated same, it made perfect sense to level front to back, put out the slides and then do the side-to-side leveling. It impacts the “super slide” mostly which is much deeper on a NH than most other brands and therefore has more opportunity and leverage to bind coming up over the “flat floor” lips. It's not a design issue. It's a fact of life issue. I had the same problem with multi-million dollar TV remote trucks we called "expandos."
As you commented, the NH slides for the Majestic and newer Summits are Lippert and they have hydraulics and gears, but no cables.
I’m not saying this procedure will never have a broken sheer bolt, but the results have been good since Tony showed me the best way to do this with the bigger slides.
Bill
I thought it mighta been…but wasn't sure and didn't want to accuse anybody unnecessarily. We've been doing it all this past travel season though…no broken bolts and we've done 3 with everything leveled out including the one last week when we were installing the slide topper fabric.
To beat this horse a little more consider this FWIW:
When the rigs are constructed they are sitting on the wheels and the suspension along, usually, with a pin tripod up front. So as the rig is built and “squared up” the frame is put under load with two or three axles under it. Three in our case.
Now when it is leveled, even with 6 point jacks, they frame is supported in totally different places. So there will be some flexing no matter how big the I-beam and box beams are and therefore all the slides and the “holes” will be just a bit different as to “square” when jacked up. The clearances are actually pretty close on the NH or they wouldn’t seal as well as they do.
So, that’s the theory and it seem to hold water based on experience. Again, if one doesn’t move much the odds are a lot less of breaking a shear bolt or shear pin regardless of how you level.
Those reading along can take all this for what it is worth. But I’ve now been told by three different manufactures’ reps that this is how they recommend doing it. All that said, I carry four ¼-20, 1-1/2” Grade 8 bolts as Neil recommended. LOL I also carried spare shear pins for the previous rig. Still do. Someone will need them someday.
If I may make the following comment about “spares.” Some don’t move very often and reside in the RV relatively close to a city for long periods of time. Others, like us, travel a lot and many times are not right down the street from a hardware store or an RV fixit shop. The style of travel and living has a lot to do with what we have as to spares. So much of what is said needs to be in taken in that context, IMO.
I’ve stated numerous times in posts that we travel a great deal including out of the country and into parts of the country where things are not as readily available. That can be I-40 BTW in New Mexico as easily as on the Alcan in Canada. (“Ask me how I know this.”) That’s why I carry a lot more spare parts, including believe it or not, spare wheel hubs, bearings, complete brake replacements and hydraulic lines along with all fluids. Don’t forget roof sealants and material for patching. Also spare truck fan belts, fluids, clamps, fuses, oil and fuel filters along with a spare jack. Yes, I needed the jack to bail out a friend who lost a trailer wheel bearing in the middle of nowhere Texas.
For someone who doesn’t move their rig very often all that is totally ridiculous. For us, it’s saved us a lot of trouble over the years. So for those reading along do keep all this in mind. What will be your style of RVing and how prepared do you need to be for that style? As always, “It depends.”
Safe travels,
Bill