First, thanks on advance for sharing your experience. I'm a newbie; have never pulled anything other than a friend's landscaping trailer. I was at the Spring Rally last year and learned a lot plus additional online research but nothing beats experience. I'm a solo female planning to FT for up to two years to decide if I like it or if I find a place I can't leave. House and stuff are sold. What I own is in my sister's garage and needs to find its new home.
Vehicle is a 2004 Yukon XL 2500 v-8 with Rear Axle Ratio of 3.73. 2-4WD. Factory installed towing package with Handling/Trailering Suspension Pkg, Trailering Equipment and Weight Distribution Hitch Platform. GVWR is 8600#. GCWR is 14,000#. Wheelbase is 130". GVW 3,904.
Trailer: comfort level is shorter rather than longer and new rather than used since I am not mechanical and want to error on the side of safety when it comes to weight. Looking at these two:
There was a third one I like but can't find one in this area: Coachman Catalina 233DS...love the fireplace but know I can add one. (GVWR 7600)
And Dreamer in the Charleston, SC area?
Thanks, Beth
Terry and Jo said
10:29 PM Dec 16, 2015
Elizabeth,
Based on weight numbers you have posted, both of those RV's would take you over your tow vehicles GCVW. The difference between the GCVW and your tow vehicle's GVWR is only 5400 lbs. In order to avoid exceeding the GCVW, any trailer you get would need to be less than that 5400 lbs. Now, if your tow vehicle ended up not reaching the 8600 lb weight, then you'd have a bit more leeway on the trailer's weight. You would need to figure out what you wanted to carry in the tow vehicle, and then figure what that would all weigh. Weighing your tow vehicle with a full tank of fuel and yourself and then adding the weight of your tow vehicle cargo would give you a better idea of the actual gross weight on the truck.
Terry
Second Chance said
01:21 PM Dec 17, 2015
Beth,
I'm not sure an "Ultra-Lite" RV of any brand is suitable for full-timing. In order to lighten them up, something has to be given up - usually wall, floor and roof thickness with resulting insulation loss (to lessen the load on the lighter chassis/frames). This genre of RV will be harder to cool in the summer and harder to heat in the winter (read "more expensive"). Ultra-lights also don't usually have enclosed and heated tankage and utility systems which are almost necessary for full-timing anywhere except Florida and far South Texas. I know this may collide with what your tow vehicle can handle, as Terry mentioned.
With this said, we pulled a 25' Surveyor Sport (Forest River travel trailer) with a 2005 1500 Tahoe with the same drive train you seem to describe. The GVWR on the trailer was about 6,000 lbs., although we probably never had it loaded to that. The rig was kinda slow up mountain passes, but did OK. The Surveyor line did not have a heated underbelly and would freeze up if the temps got below 32...
Rob
kb0zke said
07:48 PM Dec 17, 2015
Beth, unless you have LOTS of money, I'd really suggest buying a used trailer first. Figure that you can get ~25% off of MSRP on a new trailer. That's about what you will pay for a new trailer (plus sales tax and property tax, if either exist in your area). Now look at PPL for a year-old model of whatever you are looking at. Take about 25% off of their asking price to get a rough approximation of what you would get for your new trailer if you trade it in on something else in a year. Remember that most full-timers go through several coaches in fairly short order before they get what they really need. Some friends of ours bought a brand-new popular MH for a full-time coach. Less than a year later they could see that their popular brand just didn't have the quality they wanted for a full-time coach. They traded their year-old coach even-up for a 10-year-old Foretravel.
As others have pointed out, there is quite a difference between a weekend/vacation trailer and a full-time coach. As our friends found out, quality is one aspect. Heated tanks is another area. Double pane windows (aka Thermopane, a brand name) is another. Consider that, as a full-timer, you will have everything you need with you. That means clothes for all seasons. Full-time coaches are usually larger and have heavier frames just because of that.
I know that you have had your sale and are ready to hit the road, but I'd strongly suggest that you slow down a bit and study your situation some. Your truck is 12 years old and really isn't strong enough for what you need. The trailers you've found aren't really right for full-time use either. However, you HAVE found some floor plans that work for you. I'd suggest that you look for a 2- or 3-year-old Arctic Fox or Open Range with a similar floor plan. While you are looking for a trailer, start shopping for a newer truck. You will be looking at a 3500 rather than a 2500. Take the VIN to the truck's dealer and ask them to look up the build specs for it. That will give you some real numbers. Then take the truck to a scale and weigh it, getting weights for each axle. Look up some of the posts that will tell you how to figure how much weight the truck can safely handle. Don't pay any attention to the sales person, who will tell you that any truck on the lot can tow any trailer you want.
Boxcar Adult said
02:38 PM Dec 30, 2015
Sorry for delay...family emergency...holidays...thanks to all of you for your feedback.
Replies gave me lots to think about. I took my Yukon to be weighed with me, full tank of gas and 200# of stuff and it came in at 6640#. Scale gave me these two other weights: Steer Axle 3380 and Drive Axle 3260 based I think on where I was on the scale. Not much help doing it. With the GCVW at 14,000 this gives me a little more weight for my trailer, right? The difference is now 7360. My manual says my maximum tow rating is 7600. I will admit I was influenced by my "truck" friends and the guys at the dealership that said I could tow just about anything since its a 3/4 ton vehicle. I'm not looking to get another vehicle. This one has about 109K on it.
I am now looking at/for Arctic Fox, Open/Highland Range, Lance and Grand Design trailers; not finding many in this area. Going to research the RV shows in the area to see if any of the dealers coming to the show have any. I know most are west of me or north but this is where I am... Any suggestions on the next lower level of construction/design for FT? I may only be doing this for two years.
kb0zke said
07:56 PM Jan 1, 2016
Good start. At this point, then, the maximum gross weight of any trailer you can consider is 7360. That assumes that you already have the weight distributing hitch on the truck. If not, subtract the weight of that from the GW of the trailer. Note that this is gross weight, not empty weight. Next point to look at is that the weight of the WDH goes on the rear axle, so if your hitch weighs 100 pounds, you need to figure your rear axle is already at 3360. How do your axle weights compare to the maximum axle capacities of your truck? There should be a sticker on the door with that information, or your dealer can look it up. Roughly, a WDH transfers 1/3 of the tongue weight to the front axle, 1/3 to the rear axle, and 1/3 to the trailer axles. A TT should have 10-15% of the trailer weight on the hitch. That means that your theoretical trailer with a GW of 7360 will have about 1100 pounds on the hitch, which means about 368 pounds added to each axle.
Remember that axle weights, gross combined weight, tongue weight, etc. are all related, and whichever number is reached first is the one that limits everything else. In other words, if your rear axle can only take 300 pounds of added weight, your tongue (hitch) weight is limited to 900 pounds. That's still within the 10-15% range, but it means that you have to pay more attention to how the weight is distributed in the trailer.
piggy said
10:29 PM Jan 1, 2016
I too am looking for the same as the above poster, but every where I have researched the Open Range, no one gives it a thumbs up. Nothing but horror stories on the web. We seem to be in a place where finding what we want is next to impossible also. Looking for Artic Fox/Heartland/Grant Design. We don't have the above poster's particular problem because we have a Ford F350 Diesel and the TT we are looking for should be in the 30-33 ' range. So here we are also. PK,In La.
Boxcar Adult said
09:33 PM Jan 4, 2016
Thanks David. I don’t have a hitch yet but plan to get a WDH.
Maximum axle rates on Yukon are GAWR FRT 4180 and GAWR RR 5500.
I'm off to an RV show this weekend in Greenville, SC and if nothing there going to the Tampa Super show the next week.
Appreciate your experience...
Beth
Fun Boy Tours said
11:33 AM Jan 5, 2016
Beth -
We are in the hunt for a smaller, but solid built TT with 4 seasons (heated tanks etc).
Right now the 20 -25 ft Lance models seem to be the most solid of the field. They have models under 5000 lb dry weight which your Yukon should handle easily. If you see them at the shows give them a look. We will probably end up with a 1685.
First, thanks on advance for sharing your experience. I'm a newbie; have never pulled anything other than a friend's landscaping trailer. I was at the Spring Rally last year and learned a lot plus additional online research but nothing beats experience. I'm a solo female planning to FT for up to two years to decide if I like it or if I find a place I can't leave. House and stuff are sold. What I own is in my sister's garage and needs to find its new home.
Vehicle is a 2004 Yukon XL 2500 v-8 with Rear Axle Ratio of 3.73. 2-4WD. Factory installed towing package with Handling/Trailering Suspension Pkg, Trailering Equipment and Weight Distribution Hitch Platform. GVWR is 8600#. GCWR is 14,000#. Wheelbase is 130". GVW 3,904.
Trailer: comfort level is shorter rather than longer and new rather than used since I am not mechanical and want to error on the side of safety when it comes to weight. Looking at these two:
There was a third one I like but can't find one in this area: Coachman Catalina 233DS...love the fireplace but know I can add one. (GVWR 7600)
And Dreamer in the Charleston, SC area?
Thanks, Beth
Elizabeth,
Based on weight numbers you have posted, both of those RV's would take you over your tow vehicles GCVW. The difference between the GCVW and your tow vehicle's GVWR is only 5400 lbs. In order to avoid exceeding the GCVW, any trailer you get would need to be less than that 5400 lbs. Now, if your tow vehicle ended up not reaching the 8600 lb weight, then you'd have a bit more leeway on the trailer's weight. You would need to figure out what you wanted to carry in the tow vehicle, and then figure what that would all weigh. Weighing your tow vehicle with a full tank of fuel and yourself and then adding the weight of your tow vehicle cargo would give you a better idea of the actual gross weight on the truck.
Terry
Beth,
I'm not sure an "Ultra-Lite" RV of any brand is suitable for full-timing. In order to lighten them up, something has to be given up - usually wall, floor and roof thickness with resulting insulation loss (to lessen the load on the lighter chassis/frames). This genre of RV will be harder to cool in the summer and harder to heat in the winter (read "more expensive"). Ultra-lights also don't usually have enclosed and heated tankage and utility systems which are almost necessary for full-timing anywhere except Florida and far South Texas. I know this may collide with what your tow vehicle can handle, as Terry mentioned.
With this said, we pulled a 25' Surveyor Sport (Forest River travel trailer) with a 2005 1500 Tahoe with the same drive train you seem to describe. The GVWR on the trailer was about 6,000 lbs., although we probably never had it loaded to that. The rig was kinda slow up mountain passes, but did OK. The Surveyor line did not have a heated underbelly and would freeze up if the temps got below 32...
Rob
As others have pointed out, there is quite a difference between a weekend/vacation trailer and a full-time coach. As our friends found out, quality is one aspect. Heated tanks is another area. Double pane windows (aka Thermopane, a brand name) is another. Consider that, as a full-timer, you will have everything you need with you. That means clothes for all seasons. Full-time coaches are usually larger and have heavier frames just because of that.
I know that you have had your sale and are ready to hit the road, but I'd strongly suggest that you slow down a bit and study your situation some. Your truck is 12 years old and really isn't strong enough for what you need. The trailers you've found aren't really right for full-time use either. However, you HAVE found some floor plans that work for you. I'd suggest that you look for a 2- or 3-year-old Arctic Fox or Open Range with a similar floor plan. While you are looking for a trailer, start shopping for a newer truck. You will be looking at a 3500 rather than a 2500. Take the VIN to the truck's dealer and ask them to look up the build specs for it. That will give you some real numbers. Then take the truck to a scale and weigh it, getting weights for each axle. Look up some of the posts that will tell you how to figure how much weight the truck can safely handle. Don't pay any attention to the sales person, who will tell you that any truck on the lot can tow any trailer you want.
Sorry for delay...family emergency...holidays...thanks to all of you for your feedback.
Replies gave me lots to think about. I took my Yukon to be weighed with me, full tank of gas and 200# of stuff and it came in at 6640#. Scale gave me these two other weights: Steer Axle 3380 and Drive Axle 3260 based I think on where I was on the scale. Not much help doing it. With the GCVW at 14,000 this gives me a little more weight for my trailer, right? The difference is now 7360. My manual says my maximum tow rating is 7600. I will admit I was influenced by my "truck" friends and the guys at the dealership that said I could tow just about anything since its a 3/4 ton vehicle. I'm not looking to get another vehicle. This one has about 109K on it.
I am now looking at/for Arctic Fox, Open/Highland Range, Lance and Grand Design trailers; not finding many in this area. Going to research the RV shows in the area to see if any of the dealers coming to the show have any. I know most are west of me or north but this is where I am... Any suggestions on the next lower level of construction/design for FT? I may only be doing this for two years.
Remember that axle weights, gross combined weight, tongue weight, etc. are all related, and whichever number is reached first is the one that limits everything else. In other words, if your rear axle can only take 300 pounds of added weight, your tongue (hitch) weight is limited to 900 pounds. That's still within the 10-15% range, but it means that you have to pay more attention to how the weight is distributed in the trailer.
Thanks David. I don’t have a hitch yet but plan to get a WDH.
Maximum axle rates on Yukon are GAWR FRT 4180 and GAWR RR 5500.
I'm off to an RV show this weekend in Greenville, SC and if nothing there going to the Tampa Super show the next week.
Appreciate your experience...
Beth
Beth -
We are in the hunt for a smaller, but solid built TT with 4 seasons (heated tanks etc).
Right now the 20 -25 ft Lance models seem to be the most solid of the field. They have models under 5000 lb dry weight which your Yukon should handle easily. If you see them at the shows give them a look. We will probably end up with a 1685.
Happy hunting!
Andy & Kim