April is not that far away and we are planning on getting the I S system installed before the Rally, My question is to those who have it is. What bearings did you go with and why? I am leaning on going with the greaseable type instead of the sealed. Thanks for your feedback.
Bill and Linda said
02:09 PM Dec 10, 2015
CJSX2fromCT wrote:
April is not that far away and we are planning on getting the I S system installed before the Rally, My question is to those who have it is. What bearings did you go with and why? I am leaning on going with the greaseable type instead of the sealed. Thanks for your feedback.
Chris:
We have had both Nev-R-Lub and the split type “grease-able” bearings.After 3 Nev-R-Lub failures we will never have another Nev-R-Lub bearing.When we had our new trailer built we specified grease-able / standard bearings.
Now, here is the caveat: If you are sitting, not moving most of the time, Nev-R-Lub’s have a great appeal as you never have to service them.However, if you are going to travel and put some miles on your trailer than I strongly recommend getting split type “grease-able” bearing – especially on the larger 5ers.I’m not referring to Ez-Lub or the ones some call “bearing buddies.”I mean the type where you remove the wheel and the bearings and grease them.MOR/ryde will provide the correct selection if you ask for “standard” grease-able bearings like Bill & Linda have.(Rob, the service manager, knows us well.LOL)
If you speak with the people who do this for a living, repairing axles, etc., they will tell you the same thing.If a Nev-R-Lub / sealed bearing fails it will destroy the axle.Then you’re really in a world of hurt.(“Ask me how I know this more than once?”)
Another advantage of the grease-able types is interchangeability.You can go to the local auto store and get replacement bearings if required.You cannot replace the Nev-R-Lub (sealed) bearings yourself.They are pressure fitted into the wheel hubs.So if you want to carry a spare you have to carry a spare hub with a new bearing in it.(Yes, I have done that before we made the change on the previous trailer.)
You will not have this problem from MOR/ryde getting parts.I can assure you of that having been there before.
I would be happy to provide more information via PM if you would like it.
We may see you there in April BTW.
Bill
fun2travel said
07:30 PM Dec 13, 2015
We went with the greaseable bearings because they can be maintained. The sealed bearings can go out and take out the hub before you realize it.
CJSX2fromCT said
11:18 AM Dec 14, 2015
Thank you both for your input.... You both hit KEY features in the benefit of have the greaseable type. Is there a better brand then others in the greaseable style?
Bill and Linda said
08:29 AM Dec 15, 2015
CJSX2fromCT wrote:
Thank you both for your input.... You both hit KEY features in the benefit of have the greaseable type. Is there a better brand then others in the greaseable style?
Chris:
I always specify Timken Bearings.They are made in the US, actually right up the road from our home base.Other than Timken you will get Chinese made bearings according to all I have seen marking wise.
If you go to pick up Timken’s at a local parts store many times there will be a day wait as they are more expensive and some outlets don’t keep them in ready stock.That’s why I carry a couple of sets with me just in case.They will have the less expensive band as the size is common to a lot of vehicles.
I can’t prove the Timken’s are better than the Chinese versions but that’s what we specify.BTW, if you want them put on at MOR/ryde be sure and tell Rob that’s what you want when you set you’re appointment so he’ll have Timken’s on hand.Not a big deal.Just saves them having to make a run to the supply depot twice.
Bill
Lonney Wade said
09:22 AM Dec 15, 2015
On the Maytag commercial dryers they use Chinese bearings, I had to go to Timken bearing, I ask why, the parts man said because Chinese bearing have less tolerances in the bearings and use low grade steel, I was having bearing failure all the time. Never had a Timken bearing go bad; the Chinese bearing would just self destruck.
April is not that far away and we are planning on getting the I S system installed before the Rally, My question is to those who have it is. What bearings did you go with and why? I am leaning on going with the greaseable type instead of the sealed. Thanks for your feedback.
Chris:
We have had both Nev-R-Lub and the split type “grease-able” bearings. After 3 Nev-R-Lub failures we will never have another Nev-R-Lub bearing. When we had our new trailer built we specified grease-able / standard bearings.
Now, here is the caveat: If you are sitting, not moving most of the time, Nev-R-Lub’s have a great appeal as you never have to service them. However, if you are going to travel and put some miles on your trailer than I strongly recommend getting split type “grease-able” bearing – especially on the larger 5ers. I’m not referring to Ez-Lub or the ones some call “bearing buddies.” I mean the type where you remove the wheel and the bearings and grease them. MOR/ryde will provide the correct selection if you ask for “standard” grease-able bearings like Bill & Linda have. (Rob, the service manager, knows us well. LOL)
If you speak with the people who do this for a living, repairing axles, etc., they will tell you the same thing. If a Nev-R-Lub / sealed bearing fails it will destroy the axle. Then you’re really in a world of hurt. (“Ask me how I know this more than once?”)
Another advantage of the grease-able types is interchangeability. You can go to the local auto store and get replacement bearings if required. You cannot replace the Nev-R-Lub (sealed) bearings yourself. They are pressure fitted into the wheel hubs. So if you want to carry a spare you have to carry a spare hub with a new bearing in it. (Yes, I have done that before we made the change on the previous trailer.)
You might want to check out this tread:
http://rv-dreams.activeboard.com/t61075254/sealed-bearing-failure-preventative-actions/
You will not have this problem from MOR/ryde getting parts. I can assure you of that having been there before.
I would be happy to provide more information via PM if you would like it.
We may see you there in April BTW.
Bill
Chris:
I always specify Timken Bearings. They are made in the US, actually right up the road from our home base. Other than Timken you will get Chinese made bearings according to all I have seen marking wise.
If you go to pick up Timken’s at a local parts store many times there will be a day wait as they are more expensive and some outlets don’t keep them in ready stock. That’s why I carry a couple of sets with me just in case. They will have the less expensive band as the size is common to a lot of vehicles.
I can’t prove the Timken’s are better than the Chinese versions but that’s what we specify. BTW, if you want them put on at MOR/ryde be sure and tell Rob that’s what you want when you set you’re appointment so he’ll have Timken’s on hand. Not a big deal. Just saves them having to make a run to the supply depot twice.
Bill
On the Maytag commercial dryers they use Chinese bearings, I had to go to Timken bearing, I ask why, the parts man said because Chinese bearing have less tolerances in the bearings and use low grade steel, I was having bearing failure all the time. Never had a Timken bearing go bad; the Chinese bearing would just self destruck.
Lonney