Was browsing the net looking for RV water filters and ran across some sites selling AWGs. Wondering if anyone has tried, heard or considered this as an alternative to hauling the water. With solar, i would think once the batteries are charged any excess solar could be used to make water instead of just lost assuming of course the humidity is there. Below is a link to a site that reviews a couple of them.
3. If they are to be run by an inverter off of 12V, how much power would be drawn from the batteries that might be needed elsewhere?
Terry
TheHermit said
12:34 PM Sep 30, 2015
Been doin a little browsing on the internet and I have managed to glean a little more info. In reference to your items to consider;
1) Weight varies so far from 87 lbs to 140 lbs. The 87 lb unit would be more appropriate for campers due to it's "counter top" size. This is dry weight. No water. I guess if you went with the 87 lb unit, have a 40 gallon fresh tank and haul say 10 gallons as a buffer that would mean you carry 167 lbs verses 40x8= 320 lbs of water.
2) Power seems to vary considerably depending on the unit. The 87 lb DK11 is 110 volts and 550 watts. Seen some as low as 400 up to 1000 + watts. Don't know what this translates to in DC.
3) Some of the brands claim to have solar units also but no specifics. I guess after the batteries are topped off, you may just be using excess power depending on your power needs during the day and your solar capacity. Whether that would be enough time to recoup the water used I guess would depend on humidity, altitude and how much water you use. Some units can generate up to twelve gallons in a 24 hour period so probably not enough.
The units seem to run between one and two thousand dollars. Convenience factors aside you can buy a lot of fuel with that money. I guess the ROI would vary considerably by the amount of water you carry and how much it cost to haul. Looks like an excellent idea who's time has not come yet.
bjoyce said
10:39 AM Oct 1, 2015
"Power seems to vary considerably depending on the unit. The 87 lb DK11 is 110 volts and 550 watts. Seen some as low as 400 up to 1000 + watts. Don't know what this translates to in DC." Watts are watts, but there is some loss converting or invertering. Most estimate 10%, so 550 watts 120 volt would be 550 x 1.10 or 605 watts 12 volt.
Most heavy boondockers gravitate to the desert Southwest, where there is little humidity.
-- Edited by bjoyce on Thursday 1st of October 2015 10:46:20 AM
TheHermit said
10:54 AM Oct 1, 2015
I imagine disabling the water heater and cooler would reduce the draw. But you are still dependent on the humidity and yes it can get pretty dry out here.
jimindenver said
10:33 AM Oct 3, 2015
Interesting idea as water is really our limiting factor. Unfortunately it is normally pretty dry here unless it's about to rain. Then it would be easier to collect and filter the rain water. Otherwise the humidity can be in the single digits in a drought when you would need it the most.
A hitch and hop said
12:50 PM Oct 4, 2015
I have a unit that I keep in my three season room at home. It is called a dehumidifier. I get about 1.5 gal of distilled water a day in the humid Florida weather. It does not work well from October through May. This gadget appears to function like my dehumidifier. I think it would be cheaper to just carry a couple of jerry cans and refill tanks as needed from a water source.
Lucky Larry said
02:33 PM Jun 4, 2016
I keep a ShelterLogic canopy w/screen kit in my TT for camping along with a supply of tarps.
If I don't set the canopy right level rainfall collects in a loose portion and can be a huge amount (enough to collapse the canopy).
I could save this water but it can contain dirt and bird nasty so I usually dump it, but it would be fine for toilet flushing.
For cleaner water I would place a tarp in my truckbed like Uncle Si's portable swimming pool to catch rainfall - suitable for shower and sink.
In areas of low rainfall I would use a large tarp on the ground with stakes holding up the sides to catch rainfall.
For potable water I'd use collapsible 5gal water bags like we used in the military when helos resupplied us rather than hardwall containers that take up space.
A good portable water tank is a waterbed - roll it out in the truckbed and fill it at a waterpoint, use as needed.
Was browsing the net looking for RV water filters and ran across some sites selling AWGs. Wondering if anyone has tried, heard or considered this as an alternative to hauling the water. With solar, i would think once the batteries are charged any excess solar could be used to make water instead of just lost assuming of course the humidity is there. Below is a link to a site that reviews a couple of them.
Link
Three questions to consider:
1. How much weight would one add to one's RV?
2. Do any of them run on 12V, or only on 110V?
3. If they are to be run by an inverter off of 12V, how much power would be drawn from the batteries that might be needed elsewhere?
Terry
Been doin a little browsing on the internet and I have managed to glean a little more info. In reference to your items to consider;
1) Weight varies so far from 87 lbs to 140 lbs. The 87 lb unit would be more appropriate for campers due to it's "counter top" size. This is dry weight. No water. I guess if you went with the 87 lb unit, have a 40 gallon fresh tank and haul say 10 gallons as a buffer that would mean you carry 167 lbs verses 40x8= 320 lbs of water.
2) Power seems to vary considerably depending on the unit. The 87 lb DK11 is 110 volts and 550 watts. Seen some as low as 400 up to 1000 + watts. Don't know what this translates to in DC.
3) Some of the brands claim to have solar units also but no specifics. I guess after the batteries are topped off, you may just be using excess power depending on your power needs during the day and your solar capacity. Whether that would be enough time to recoup the water used I guess would depend on humidity, altitude and how much water you use. Some units can generate up to twelve gallons in a 24 hour period so probably not enough.
The units seem to run between one and two thousand dollars. Convenience factors aside you can buy a lot of fuel with that money. I guess the ROI would vary considerably by the amount of water you carry and how much it cost to haul. Looks like an excellent idea who's time has not come yet.
"Power seems to vary considerably depending on the unit. The 87 lb DK11 is 110 volts and 550 watts. Seen some as low as 400 up to 1000 + watts. Don't know what this translates to in DC."
Watts are watts, but there is some loss converting or invertering. Most estimate 10%, so 550 watts 120 volt would be 550 x 1.10 or 605 watts 12 volt.
Most heavy boondockers gravitate to the desert Southwest, where there is little humidity.
-- Edited by bjoyce on Thursday 1st of October 2015 10:46:20 AM
I imagine disabling the water heater and cooler would reduce the draw. But you are still dependent on the humidity and yes it can get pretty dry out here.
If I don't set the canopy right level rainfall collects in a loose portion and can be a huge amount (enough to collapse the canopy).
I could save this water but it can contain dirt and bird nasty so I usually dump it, but it would be fine for toilet flushing.
For cleaner water I would place a tarp in my truckbed like Uncle Si's portable swimming pool to catch rainfall - suitable for shower and sink.
In areas of low rainfall I would use a large tarp on the ground with stakes holding up the sides to catch rainfall.
For potable water I'd use collapsible 5gal water bags like we used in the military when helos resupplied us rather than hardwall containers that take up space.
A good portable water tank is a waterbed - roll it out in the truckbed and fill it at a waterpoint, use as needed.