We are not full timers and store our Newmar Ventana at a storage yard when not in use. Last year was our first winter with it and I serviced it with RV antifreeze as we have an Oasis hot water heater and furnace. In the past with our prior coach I would just use air to clear all of the lines and then if I wanted to take it out for a weekend I would just have to drain and repeat. Now it takes 6-7 gallons of antifreeze and I don't want to pay for that every weekend that I get the urge to take it out.
This year at our storage place we have access to a 15amp plug-in and it is covered. I live in Oregon in the Willamette Valley(Eugene) where the weather is generally mild but we do get a couple of weeks spread throughout the winter that does get below freezing down in the 20's. So my thought is to set my furnace at 35-40 degrees and or set the tank heat pads to on when the threat gets to colder weather. I have been looking online to see what the amp draw is for either the Oasis or the heat pads. Does anyone know this? Any better thoughts on this?
Also our hose reel is not in the same compartment as the where the drains are. I think that I can set the valve to tank fill open the drains and use air to clear that hose and line. Am I crazy or can this be done. We are going to sell our home next year to downsize but also look for something that we can park the coach at home and put in a 50amp service and a way to also drain the tanks at home. That will take care of all of this I hope but until I will still have to figure something out.
NorCal Dan said
12:59 PM Oct 11, 2015
How about a space heater in the basement? Drain the tanks, blow the lines with air, antifreeze in the pump and ptraps. The 12VDC space heaters can be used to keep the basement/water compartment above freezing. Your rig documentation should give some direction on winterizing.
Anyway a diesel hydronic heater, like the Oasis, running on diesel does not take much electric power. Many people boondock with them and do not have problems draining their batteries. I suspect on electric the Oasis will use too much power. Your heat pads should not take much power either. You can hook your motorhome up using a 15 amp cord and put a Kill-A-Watt (http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ ) inline to see what the load is. You should have a Kill-A-Watt or equivalent (I have this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1E1XA2), anyway to check the real usage of appliances. Also turn down your shore power setting on your inverter charger to 5AMPs or so, you do not want it to pop the 15 amp breaker after an unexpected power outage when the charger kicks in.
-- Edited by bjoyce on Monday 12th of October 2015 11:06:47 AM
Oregonhiker said
11:14 AM Oct 12, 2015
Dan, From what I have been told and read is that with the Oasis system I can't blow out the lines like I used to on our previous coach. I was trying not to use antifreeze so we could take the coach out on a moments notice for a few days when we want.
Bill, I will get a Kill-A-Watt or equivalent and start doing some testing to see what draws different choices have. One worry is that our hose reel is in the rear storage compartment The water bay is mid-coach like most so a concern about the area between is also a thought.
I just got off the phone with the Oasis manufacturer and was told I can purge the system with air just like our previous coach. Another strike against our local dealers service dept. for telling me I couldn't do this. Life is good again and we will be doing winter camping in Oregon this year, yeah.
bjoyce said
01:54 PM Oct 12, 2015
Lots of choices for winter camping within a reasonable distance of Eugene. The coast is a good choice, just don't go when storms are forecast. We are currently in Eugene getting some work done at Carrier RV Service.
Good deal Rick, sounds like you're all set for winter camping season. I do recommend the 12VDC space heaters like Bill mentioned, you need to keep the basement water compartment from freezing. Things I learned while full-timing...do not leave the stinky slinky hooked up...dump your tanks, rinse out the hose and stow it. And unhook AND drain the water hose at night...once it freezes it takes a long long time to thaw out.
We found that most RV parks that are open during freezing weather have insulation and/or heat tape on their spigots, or use self draining spigots to reduce the chances of their spigots freezing up...but keep a good supply of water in your fresh tank...just in case.
We spent our first winter in Verdi, NV. so had to learn quick about winter RV'ing. Trial by fire I guess. But we loved it and wouldn't trade those experiences for anything...
We worked 2 summers at the Elkton RV Park right on the Umpqua River and loved it...but the wife wanted closer to the ocean so we selected our other favorite location, Ocean Park WA. (just across the river from Astoria). The PNW was our favorite destination out of all the locations we visited while full-timing.
We are not full timers and store our Newmar Ventana at a storage yard when not in use. Last year was our first winter with it and I serviced it with RV antifreeze as we have an Oasis hot water heater and furnace. In the past with our prior coach I would just use air to clear all of the lines and then if I wanted to take it out for a weekend I would just have to drain and repeat. Now it takes 6-7 gallons of antifreeze and I don't want to pay for that every weekend that I get the urge to take it out.
This year at our storage place we have access to a 15amp plug-in and it is covered. I live in Oregon in the Willamette Valley(Eugene) where the weather is generally mild but we do get a couple of weeks spread throughout the winter that does get below freezing down in the 20's. So my thought is to set my furnace at 35-40 degrees and or set the tank heat pads to on when the threat gets to colder weather. I have been looking online to see what the amp draw is for either the Oasis or the heat pads. Does anyone know this? Any better thoughts on this?
Also our hose reel is not in the same compartment as the where the drains are. I think that I can set the valve to tank fill open the drains and use air to clear that hose and line. Am I crazy or can this be done. We are going to sell our home next year to downsize but also look for something that we can park the coach at home and put in a 50amp service and a way to also drain the tanks at home. That will take care of all of this I hope but until I will still have to figure something out.
Lasko makes 200 watt space heaters, http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-100-MyHeat-Personal-Ceramic/dp/B003XDTWN2/, $15.99 a the Amazon link. We have two. Couple with a Thermostatically Controlled Outlet like http://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovators-TC-3-Thermostatically-Controlled/dp/B0006U2HD2 and you would be set.
Anyway a diesel hydronic heater, like the Oasis, running on diesel does not take much electric power. Many people boondock with them and do not have problems draining their batteries. I suspect on electric the Oasis will use too much power. Your heat pads should not take much power either. You can hook your motorhome up using a 15 amp cord and put a Kill-A-Watt (http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ ) inline to see what the load is. You should have a Kill-A-Watt or equivalent (I have this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1E1XA2), anyway to check the real usage of appliances. Also turn down your shore power setting on your inverter charger to 5AMPs or so, you do not want it to pop the 15 amp breaker after an unexpected power outage when the charger kicks in.
-- Edited by bjoyce on Monday 12th of October 2015 11:06:47 AM
Bill, I will get a Kill-A-Watt or equivalent and start doing some testing to see what draws different choices have. One worry is that our hose reel is in the rear storage compartment The water bay is mid-coach like most so a concern about the area between is also a thought.
I just got off the phone with the Oasis manufacturer and was told I can purge the system with air just like our previous coach. Another strike against our local dealers service dept. for telling me I couldn't do this. Life is good again and we will be doing winter camping in Oregon this year, yeah.
Lots of choices for winter camping within a reasonable distance of Eugene. The coast is a good choice, just don't go when storms are forecast. We are currently in Eugene getting some work done at Carrier RV Service.
I should mention that if you have a Progressive EMS, external http://www.progressiveindustries.net/#!ems-pt50c/c1ma0, or internal http://www.progressiveindustries.net/#!ems-hw50c/cjk6, you can get the total amp draw rounded to the nearest amp. But the Kill-A-Watt will tell you in watts and fractions of an amp.
We found that most RV parks that are open during freezing weather have insulation and/or heat tape on their spigots, or use self draining spigots to reduce the chances of their spigots freezing up...but keep a good supply of water in your fresh tank...just in case.
We spent our first winter in Verdi, NV. so had to learn quick about winter RV'ing. Trial by fire I guess. But we loved it and wouldn't trade those experiences for anything...
We worked 2 summers at the Elkton RV Park right on the Umpqua River and loved it...but the wife wanted closer to the ocean so we selected our other favorite location, Ocean Park WA. (just across the river from Astoria). The PNW was our favorite destination out of all the locations we visited while full-timing.