Just back from our shakedown run and our top priorities are a GPS made for RVs, and a portable air compressor we can easily use at the campground. I searched first and the compressor information is three years old, and the GPS information is months old with no clear recommendation for a viable unit.

So - for those of you who have one or both that you recommend I would love to get your feedback.  We drive a 35' MH with tires that call for 120 PSI.  We are towing a Jeep Cherokee and will be traveling both interstates and back roads. I'm looking for a GPS that updates automatically and often .

Anything to avoid?  Anything to add that makes either more efficient or accurate?

Thanks in advance!!

Jodee

You can't really go wrong with either a Garmin or Tom Tom GPS although I prefer the Garmin. Just make sure you get a modem intended for trucks as they allow you to put in your night, length and weight and will generally route toy appropriately. 

Compressor, I have a Craftsman 150 psi model and love it. 

Howdy Howdy  Bill & Jodee,

Everyone has their favorite and normally its the one their accustom to. You have already heard of Tom Tom and Garmin, but my favorite is the 7" model of Rand McNally the Map people. Rand McNally has partnerd-up with Good Sam for a RV/car unit that is RV specific, but can be switched over for your pick-up or towed also. Rand McNally Good Sam Model #7735 RV GPS with Lifetime Maps. I have driven semi trucks, coast to coast and border to border until retirement in Dec of 2013 and used the Rand Mcn. for the last 8 -10 yrs.

You cannot trust any of them completely, you have to use some commonsense and even look at your road maps or other tools to verify your route from time to time. And I don't know of any of them that will automatically update themselves. I believe most have to be connected to a computer every few weeks or once per month especially for construction sites in the spring, summer & fall. Be sure to get a unit with LM - LifeTime Maps that will update by computer annually for new routes and new roads. If the unit does not come with LM, it can cost $75 to $100 for the annual mapping.

MarkS is still Trucking and RV'ing and can possibly give some great insite to your question.

Hope I have helped you some. Normally you can find the Good Sam/Rand McNally 7735 for around $300. or less at Camping World.

 One more thing, most of the problems people have with the Rand McNally can summed-up in one category- Read the Quick Start Material and check out the manual for answers to your questions. Honestly, I think some people just turn the GPS on and think it will work for them. It won't happen, it's a computer used for routing point A to point B with possible stops in between known as VIA's. Some folks on their reviews will complain they can't hear the directions well enough. Then 3 wks later they discover it has a Volume control, WOW people !!!!! And the list goes on and on.

We now have this Porter Cable Air Compressor which is a better version of the Sears Craftsman compressor we used to have and recommend.

It's listed here on Amazon and we also got the tire inflator with gauge to go with it.  

I would recommend replacing the plastic spiral hose with a heavier duty, longer hose with more psi capacity.

A few notes about GPS systems FWIW.  We’ve been using GPS now for some 20 years; Linda and I both.  GPS must not be trusted, especially those that say they are “RV specific,” as to routes.  You simply must double check any route.  One reason is the GPS data all “personal” – that is the relatively inexpensive ones we all purchase – is about 2 years old at the least.  Even with the latest updates the road maps are older because “we” don’t pay enough to get the most current data such as fire and emergency operations.  That data is expensive and in another league.

The best GPS I had found was a Lowrance which is naturally no longer made.  After a long search I found the Garmin nuvi2555 to be the best choice for us and we’re still using it.  IMO, any of the “car” GPS units, if large enough, are just as good and useful as the RV ones and cost less. 

IMO you can pay more for the “RV” GPS just because they say “RV.” (We tried the Rand McNally RV GSP and sent it back due to a very dim display - our opinion.)  But for us we didn’t find them to be better nor the databases to be more helpful as I always plan trips ahead of time and “tell” the GPS how I want to go with a couple of routing weigh points. That’s our method and it works well for our style of travel.

The traffic updates are very unreliable, IMO, depending for one on FM radio stations to deliver this “real time” information.  If there isn’t a station around your location contracted to deliver that data – no data.  I’m not saying free traffic info is bad, just not reliable and many times not as accurate or timely as what can be found via the free smart phone apps.

These comments are based on our use of GPS as a road navigator, not something to hold pictures or find a restaurant.  We use the smart phone for that purpose.

If buying one today I’d likely go with the Garmin nüvi® 68LMT which has a 6” screen and is reasonably priced.  But that’s just based on our criteria.

To update the maps you will need a PC and naturally an internet connection.  None of the inexpensive ones will update “over the air” automatically. But the process via the PC is easy with the Garmin IMO. The updates come out about twice a year +/-.

Air compressor comment: x2 on Howard’s choice.  With the psi required in your post (125) you need a 150 psi compressor rating to get 125 psi in the tires.  Harbor Freight also has Porter Cable 150 psi models at much better prices than some other locations based on my last research.

Bill

Bill and Jodee wrote:

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...Found the Porter compressor on Amazon and are going to check it out at our local Harbor Freight to compare pricing - as well as the gauge and upgraded hose.

Love you guys

Jodee

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 Harbor freight online has a 150PSI model for 130 but it's not the Porter Cable one. They might carry them in-store but I doubt you'll beat the Amazon pricing. The one Howard showed in his post is 110 & free shipping with Amazon Prime.

MarkS wrote:

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I have a Cummins powered air compressor. It is powered by a 530 HP motor and maintains 160 ponds of pressure.

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 Is yours really cutting out at 160psi ??

MarkS wrote:

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I am pretty easy to please because I use mine as much to tell me how much farther or what time will I get there as to route me. I do not blindly follow my GPS. Yes, we have trust issues. I also use my GPS as a speedometer. It is dead accurate. I have the Garmin DEZL760. It's loud and bright. It is meant for trucking but has RV settings.

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Mark:

Funny you should mention the time to destination – vehicle speed – etc. along with the distance to turn. That’s more what I use mine for as well.  But I noticed on the description of the device you use something about which I’d like you input.  Bridge, etc. clearances included in the Garmin DEZL760.

Assuming the database in the GPS is correct, do you set your trailer clearance level at 13’6”?  (I’m assuming that number due to the 13’6” max height in the US without a permit if I have that correct from years ago.)

Additional question – Do all states now use the same measurement points as to clearance sign numbers?  If the clearance sign says 13’6” is that worst case – usually at the road side?  Do they put any “pad” in those clearance numbers? 

Asked another way – If the sign says 13’6” will a 13’6” trailer actually clear the obstructions?

Thanks

I agree with everything MarkS wrote about GPS's. I too have the DEZL760 and have a love hate relationship with it, like I've had with every GPS I've ever owned. 

Just curious as to what tires you're running? I have a 37' mh and running 22.5" tires that only call for 100 psi, not adjusting for weight. 

TRAILERKING wrote:

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MarkS wrote:

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I have a Cummins powered air compressor. It is powered by a 530 HP motor and maintains 160 ponds of pressure.

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 Is yours really cutting out at 160psi ??

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 Yes. It is set for 160. So is the freightliner at work. Most are set between 140 and 160. 

Bill and Linda wrote:

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MarkS wrote:

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I am pretty easy to please because I use mine as much to tell me how much farther or what time will I get there as to route me. I do not blindly follow my GPS. Yes, we have trust issues. I also use my GPS as a speedometer. It is dead accurate. I have the Garmin DEZL760. It's loud and bright. It is meant for trucking but has RV settings.

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Mark:

 

Funny you should mention the time to destination – vehicle speed – etc. along with the distance to turn. That’s more what I use mine for as well.  But I noticed on the description of the device you use something about which I’d like you input.  Bridge, etc. clearances included in the Garmin DEZL760.

 

Assuming the database in the GPS is correct, do you set your trailer clearance level at 13’6”?  (I’m assuming that number due to the 13’6” max height in the US without a permit if I have that correct from years ago.)

--I set my height at 13.6.  

Additional question – Do all states now use the same measurement points as to clearance sign numbers?  If the clearance sign says 13’6” is that worst case – usually at the road side?  Do they put any “pad” in those clearance numbers? 

-- those numbers are never or seldom accurate. Typically, there is extra padding. But not always. 

Asked another way – If the sign says 13’6” will a 13’6” trailer actually clear the obstructions?

-- I have never hit anything even those marked 13' 6"

 

Thanks

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MarkS wrote:

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TRAILERKING wrote:

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MarkS wrote:

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I have a Cummins powered air compressor. It is powered by a 530 HP motor and maintains 160 ponds of pressure.

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 Is yours really cutting out at 160psi ??

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 Yes. It is set for 160. So is the freightliner at work. Most are set between 140 and 160. 

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 Wow ....That's interesting. Did someone turn them up or is that the way they were?

This is right out of an air brake manual.

"Cut-out pressure must be between 690 and 932 kPa (100 and 135 psi) and must never exceed 932 kPa (135 psi). Cut-in pressure must never be less than 552 kPa (80 psi)."