I was looking at drawing a propane line for a wave 3 catalytic heater, if anyone could let me know what they think, I would appreciate it. I looked at my options and my idea was to put in a tee where the line hooks up to the stove then use an elbow and run a line behind the stove and down under and out the cabinet wall, putting in a quick connect that has a valve on it. I'm also not sure if it is a 1/2" connection where the line hooks up to the stove.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Roger
A-S Travelers said
04:20 PM Nov 22, 2014
I copper tubing is usually 3/8" OD. That is what it has been in the 4 RV's I have installed a quick disconnect in.
You should install a cutoff valve between the quick disconnect and the "tee" for safety in case the quick disconnect was to not close completely.
You don't say what RV you have. The wave 3 works fine for a very small RV, i.e Casita or class B. If your RV is larger you want a wave 6. If you are 30' or larger wave 8 is better. You can always use the wave 8 on medium or low.
rgrrmg said
06:17 PM Nov 22, 2014
Thanks for the info., I have a 1998 26ft. Fleetwood Flair so I will look into the Wave 6. Glad I did not buy the heater yet, guess I thought the Wave 3 would have been enough.
I've never worked with copper tubing before, is it easy to work with? Do you think it would be ok to run another line from that stove input ( I'm just thinking safety)?
Also do you know if adding that line would compromise the pressure at the stove?
Thanks for your advice.
TRAILERKING said
07:43 PM Nov 22, 2014
rgrrmg wrote:
I've never worked with copper tubing before, is it easy to work with? Do you think it would be ok to run another line from that stove input ( I'm just thinking safety)?
Thanks for your advice.
You'll need to have a flaring tool for your connections and make sure to soap and check for leaks. You don't need to build yourself a "Death Trap".
If you've never had anything to do with that sort of thing it would be best to just hire a professional to do the flaring and connections. It's a lot cheaper than ones life.
rgrrmg said
09:13 PM Nov 22, 2014
Thanks TrailerKing,
I'm actually at an RV park workamping and just had a new toilet put in and a new 4 way tap (Extend a stay) on my propane tank, the RV guy came to the park to work on my RV. I'm thinking I will have him do this, after all he is LP state certified and I'm not, and I value my life. He is very reasonable at a $60 service charge and $60/hr..
I was looking at drawing a propane line for a wave 3 catalytic heater, if anyone could let me know what they think, I would appreciate it. I looked at my options and my idea was to put in a tee where the line hooks up to the stove then use an elbow and run a line behind the stove and down under and out the cabinet wall, putting in a quick connect that has a valve on it. I'm also not sure if it is a 1/2" connection where the line hooks up to the stove.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Roger
You should install a cutoff valve between the quick disconnect and the "tee" for safety in case the quick disconnect was to not close completely.
You don't say what RV you have. The wave 3 works fine for a very small RV, i.e Casita or class B. If your RV is larger you want a wave 6. If you are 30' or larger wave 8 is better. You can always use the wave 8 on medium or low.
I've never worked with copper tubing before, is it easy to work with? Do you think it would be ok to run another line from that stove input ( I'm just thinking safety)?
Also do you know if adding that line would compromise the pressure at the stove?
Thanks for your advice.
You'll need to have a flaring tool for your connections and make sure to soap and check for leaks. You don't need to build yourself a "Death Trap".
If you've never had anything to do with that sort of thing it would be best to just hire a professional to do the flaring and connections. It's a lot cheaper than ones life.
I'm actually at an RV park workamping and just had a new toilet put in and a new 4 way tap (Extend a stay) on my propane tank, the RV guy came to the park to work on my RV. I'm thinking I will have him do this, after all he is LP state certified and I'm not, and I value my life. He is very reasonable at a $60 service charge and $60/hr..