This one has me confused as to what might be wrong
This morning, Jo went to wash dishes in the kitchen sink and had no hot water. Cold water worked fine, and the hot and cold water worked in both the bathroom sink and the shower. I've got a multi-sensor indoor/outdoor thermometer with one sensor in the underbelly about a foot or so from the water manifold, and that sensor has never gotten down to freezing. I've even cranked up the interior heat for the coach so that more heat would be sent to the underbelly by that one duct that goes from the furnace over to the water manifold area. Current temperatures in the underbelly is about 47 degrees.
I took the hot water line off at the kitchen sink and no water is coming there either, so it doesn't appear to be a problem with the kitchen faucet.
If I remember correctly, when the hot water leaves the hot water heater, doesn't it exit out of the top line on the back of the heater? If so, I don't think it could be some kind of sediment that has broken loose in the hot water heater and plugged only that one line. I'd think that sediment would stay near the bottom of the heater and not reach the discharge line.
Anyone got any ideas that have escaped me?
Terry
The Junkman said
04:25 PM Nov 13, 2014
Just seen it's like 11 degrees in Denver.. and will be staying cold..going down to 2 degrees tonight
I assume you have your heat on..
maybe the line to water heater is frozen?
-- Edited by The Junkman on Thursday 13th of November 2014 04:27:14 PM
Lucky Mike said
04:48 PM Nov 13, 2014
I was thinking the same.....check the cold supply line to the hot water heater..
Terry and Jo said
05:22 PM Nov 13, 2014
We have water, both hot and cold, in the bathroom. This appears to only be the line from the water manifold to the kitchen sink. And yes, the heat is on as I reported in my first post.
Terry
Alie and Jims Carrilite said
06:25 PM Nov 13, 2014
Where is that line run Terry? If it runs thru any outside compartments it could be frozen somewhere along the way. For instance, the Einstein's that built our rig ran the hot and cold line for the washer thru the bottom of the refrigerator compartment, right in front of the bottom vent.
waltben said
06:37 PM Nov 13, 2014
I'd think the same as previous post, that the routing of that hot water line may be your problem. Sometimes you've got to really wonder where the manufacturers find their employees.
Diana and Jim said
07:48 PM Nov 13, 2014
Terry,
If it is sediment, can you shut the water off, open the drain on the water heater and put air pressure on the faucet and open the hot water side only? Just a thought. You said you haven't reached freezing yet?
Knock on wood, all water is flowing fine here in Michigan. Outside temps around 26. We are also at 47 in the skirted area under the rig.
Jim
MarkS said
07:55 PM Nov 13, 2014
Wait till next May. If it's still plugged, it's sediment.
Alie and Jims Carrilite said
08:09 PM Nov 13, 2014
Is the water manifold for both hot and cold- blue side/red side? If it is, check your shut off valves on the manifold, its possible that the one controlling the sink has either turned more than the 90* or 180* to close. Some valves are open or closed depending on their handle location, on a clock face- straight up may be closed, 3 o'clock or 90* is open, 6 o'clock or 180 is closed again, etc. Or it's possible that the valve has clogged, you and Jo moved not long ago after sitting for several years, some sediment or calcium could have come loose and has lodged itself in the valve. Just idea's
-- Edited by Alie and Jims Carrilite on Thursday 13th of November 2014 08:10:28 PM
rv-vagabond said
08:50 AM Nov 14, 2014
Are you getting hot water out of the manifold on the line that goes to the kitchen sink? I assume that at the manifold you have one hot water line in and at least 3 out. This is where I would start to look. Also I was looking through your photobucket, and I noticed what looks like a picture of an inline check valve or a pressure reducing valve. You might look there also, if it is between the manifold and the kitchen sink.
-- Edited by rv-vagabond on Friday 14th of November 2014 08:59:41 AM
BugSplatter07 said
09:36 PM Nov 14, 2014
We had pretty much the same thing happened to us about 8 months ago and what we found out was one of the valves had closed. I don't ever remember being around the valve but when I turned it to fully closed and reopened it, water was at the sink like nothing had ever went wrong.
Terry and Jo said
10:08 AM Nov 15, 2014
Update:
Well, I've learned something new to always consider. Our problem was evidently a bit of ice in the line from the water manifold to the kitchen sink. While I have a remote thermometer sensor in the underbelly near the water manifold, it never indicated freezing temps. Now, I'll have to reconsider when extra heat needs to be applied to prevent that line from freezing up. While the lines to all the other faucets are within 4 to 6 feet of the manifold, the line to the kitchen faucet is obviously longer, thus subject to getting colder.
Once it warmed up underneath, the water began flowing at the kitchen sink again, without me having to do anything. We've purchased a small electric heater with a fan, so once I determine where to put that, I'll start experimenting with settings to keep it warmer under there.
We were doing very well with no freeze-ups even down into the single digits, say 3 to 6 degrees outside. But that morning, it got down to zero, so I guess that was just a bit too much.
Thanks for the ideas, everyone.
Terry
kfrimr said
04:51 PM Nov 16, 2014
Terry,
We had the exact same issue when it got below Zero. Evidently the Hot water line is run through the belly of the coach but it is not close enough to the furnace ducting to keep it warm. I found that the issue is just below the sink, not at the manifold end of the water run. So a few mintes with a hair drier pointed down the whole where the water comes up into the island does the trick quite quickly. The manifold end says warm from the furnace.
We enjoyed visiting with you last week, we really weren't expecting it to get so cold so quickly. I think the coldest of our current polar vortex is over.
Hope this helps,
Kent & Jan
TRAILERKING said
05:06 PM Nov 16, 2014
What about running a light bulb in the basement compartment? I've heard of some people doing that.
Terry and Jo said
07:13 PM Nov 16, 2014
Bernie,
That works pretty well for a small area, but I'm not so sure a light bulb would put off enough heat for the underbelly of a 38-foot RV. Both in Oklahoma City and here, we've built a box to place over the hydrant(s), and I use a shop trouble light in the box to help keep that area warm as well. It seems to be working quite well at zero degrees, but I wonder how long my incandescent light bulbs will hold out. I've only a few of those left.
However, I have heard that "rough service" incandescent light bulbs may still be available to us here in the U.S.
Terry
Diana and Jim said
06:09 AM Nov 17, 2014
Terry,
How long are you going to be there? If you are staying put through the winter, can you skirt the rig? We did, and it really did the job. It doesn't need to be fancy, just sealed off from the wind. 1/2" foil faced foam board will work wonders. It cuts with a utility knife. You can attach it with foil tape, which comes right off in the spring. Do NOT use duct tape.
Also, a nifty little heater for an underbelly is one of these:
DeLonghi TRN0812T Portable Oil-Filled Radiator with Programmable Timer, available through Howard's link on Amazon.
Small enough to fit down below, and no open flame. We love ours!
To let you know the benefits of skirting, one guy here in our campground in Michigan doesn't skirt. I was talking to both him and also to the propane dealer, who knew of him. He was refilling a 30 pound tank once a day last year, and is doing the same this year. The dealer mentioned that everyone else showed up like clockwork every three days, me included. At $25 a refill, it doesn't take long to recoup the cost of the foam board and tape. He has a 20 foot TT, and I have a 31' foot fiver. I tspent around $300 on materials, and I used 3/4" foam. Just something to consider, especially if you are staying put.
This one has me confused as to what might be wrong
This morning, Jo went to wash dishes in the kitchen sink and had no hot water. Cold water worked fine, and the hot and cold water worked in both the bathroom sink and the shower. I've got a multi-sensor indoor/outdoor thermometer with one sensor in the underbelly about a foot or so from the water manifold, and that sensor has never gotten down to freezing. I've even cranked up the interior heat for the coach so that more heat would be sent to the underbelly by that one duct that goes from the furnace over to the water manifold area. Current temperatures in the underbelly is about 47 degrees.
I took the hot water line off at the kitchen sink and no water is coming there either, so it doesn't appear to be a problem with the kitchen faucet.
If I remember correctly, when the hot water leaves the hot water heater, doesn't it exit out of the top line on the back of the heater? If so, I don't think it could be some kind of sediment that has broken loose in the hot water heater and plugged only that one line. I'd think that sediment would stay near the bottom of the heater and not reach the discharge line.
Anyone got any ideas that have escaped me?
Terry
Just seen it's like 11 degrees in Denver.. and will be staying cold..going down to 2 degrees tonight
I assume you have your heat on..
maybe the line to water heater is frozen?
-- Edited by The Junkman on Thursday 13th of November 2014 04:27:14 PM
We have water, both hot and cold, in the bathroom. This appears to only be the line from the water manifold to the kitchen sink. And yes, the heat is on as I reported in my first post.
Terry
If it is sediment, can you shut the water off, open the drain on the water heater and put air pressure on the faucet and open the hot water side only? Just a thought. You said you haven't reached freezing yet?
Knock on wood, all water is flowing fine here in Michigan. Outside temps around 26. We are also at 47 in the skirted area under the rig.
Jim
Is the water manifold for both hot and cold- blue side/red side?
If it is, check your shut off valves on the manifold, its possible that the one controlling the sink has either turned more than the 90* or 180* to close. Some valves are open or closed depending on their handle location, on a clock face- straight up may be closed, 3 o'clock or 90* is open, 6 o'clock or 180 is closed again, etc. Or it's possible that the valve has clogged, you and Jo moved not long ago after sitting for several years, some sediment or calcium could have come loose and has lodged itself in the valve.
Just idea's
-- Edited by Alie and Jims Carrilite on Thursday 13th of November 2014 08:10:28 PM
Are you getting hot water out of the manifold on the line that goes to the kitchen sink? I assume that at the manifold you have one hot water line in and at least 3 out. This is where I would start to look. Also I was looking through your photobucket, and I noticed what looks like a picture of an inline check valve or a pressure reducing valve. You might look there also, if it is between the manifold and the kitchen sink.
-- Edited by rv-vagabond on Friday 14th of November 2014 08:59:41 AM
Update:
Well, I've learned something new to always consider. Our problem was evidently a bit of ice in the line from the water manifold to the kitchen sink. While I have a remote thermometer sensor in the underbelly near the water manifold, it never indicated freezing temps. Now, I'll have to reconsider when extra heat needs to be applied to prevent that line from freezing up. While the lines to all the other faucets are within 4 to 6 feet of the manifold, the line to the kitchen faucet is obviously longer, thus subject to getting colder.
Once it warmed up underneath, the water began flowing at the kitchen sink again, without me having to do anything. We've purchased a small electric heater with a fan, so once I determine where to put that, I'll start experimenting with settings to keep it warmer under there.
We were doing very well with no freeze-ups even down into the single digits, say 3 to 6 degrees outside. But that morning, it got down to zero, so I guess that was just a bit too much.
Thanks for the ideas, everyone.
Terry
We had the exact same issue when it got below Zero. Evidently the Hot water line is run through the belly of the coach but it is not close enough to the furnace ducting to keep it warm. I found that the issue is just below the sink, not at the manifold end of the water run. So a few mintes with a hair drier pointed down the whole where the water comes up into the island does the trick quite quickly. The manifold end says warm from the furnace.
We enjoyed visiting with you last week, we really weren't expecting it to get so cold so quickly. I think the coldest of our current polar vortex is over.
Hope this helps,
Kent & Jan
Bernie,
That works pretty well for a small area, but I'm not so sure a light bulb would put off enough heat for the underbelly of a 38-foot RV. Both in Oklahoma City and here, we've built a box to place over the hydrant(s), and I use a shop trouble light in the box to help keep that area warm as well. It seems to be working quite well at zero degrees, but I wonder how long my incandescent light bulbs will hold out. I've only a few of those left.
However, I have heard that "rough service" incandescent light bulbs may still be available to us here in the U.S.
Terry
How long are you going to be there? If you are staying put through the winter, can you skirt the rig? We did, and it really did the job. It doesn't need to be fancy, just sealed off from the wind. 1/2" foil faced foam board will work wonders. It cuts with a utility knife. You can attach it with foil tape, which comes right off in the spring. Do NOT use duct tape.
Also, a nifty little heater for an underbelly is one of these:
DeLonghi TRN0812T Portable Oil-Filled Radiator with Programmable Timer, available through Howard's link on Amazon.
Small enough to fit down below, and no open flame. We love ours!
To let you know the benefits of skirting, one guy here in our campground in Michigan doesn't skirt. I was talking to both him and also to the propane dealer, who knew of him. He was refilling a 30 pound tank once a day last year, and is doing the same this year. The dealer mentioned that everyone else showed up like clockwork every three days, me included. At $25 a refill, it doesn't take long to recoup the cost of the foam board and tape. He has a 20 foot TT, and I have a 31' foot fiver. I tspent around $300 on materials, and I used 3/4" foam. Just something to consider, especially if you are staying put.
Jim