It took me almost 4 days when all was said and done...but I am pretty pleased with the results! Swapped out the infamous Dometic 1350RM (which has been problematic since we bought the RV in '11) for the new Samsung RF18 (replaces the RF197). I spent more time measuring and re-measuring to make sure everything would fit than I did actual work (and you can see I have scarcely a hair to spare with the slide in). The new RF18 from what I can tell is about 1" taller than the RF197 making the install a little more tricky. I ended up lowering the fridge floor to about 8.5" above the kitchen floor. I also cut out slots for the wheels to drop into to cheat the height a little bit. I believe that ended up being an unnecessary step admittedly. I did remove the front rollers on the fridge. To brace it down I basically screwed two 3" x 6" metal plates perpendicular to the front of the floor to 'stop' the fridge from moving forward. I have about 1" between the fridge and the back wall.
I can't thank Terry Miller enough for his very helpful blog posts and photo gallery from his conversion! He also took the time to chat on the phone a while to answer some questions for me :)
Oh, and of course thanks to Greg Young at RV Solar Solutions for installing a fantastic solar system to make all of this possible.
One thing I am a little concerned about with the fridge is that is seems to be pulling 15 amps when I isolate it on my inverter. I suppose I expected less but maybe I don't quite understand how that translates into 'amp hour' cycles. I know fridges like the RF197 would use about 100Ah in a 24 hr cycle...does that translate into 4.16 amps (100/24 = 4.16)? Does that mean that my fridge is actually using 360Ah (15a x 24h)? Surely that can't be.
bjoyce said
07:44 AM Oct 26, 2014
Sounds like the RF18 pulls more power when it wants than the RF197, which pulled 10 to 11 AMPs at maximum. The 15 AMPs is not continous, most of the time when it runs it will be under 3 AMPs and it will have times it is using close to zero. The daily usage should still be in the 100 Amp-hour range. Our 24 cuft side-by-side Whirlpool, which is 4" wider and 1" shorter than the RF197, can pull almost 20 Amps for short periods, but uses around 110 amp-hours of battery a day.
The Hensons said
07:45 AM Oct 26, 2014
Just doing some more thinking on the energy usage of this fridge. After further research it does appear this new RF18 uses more power than its predecessor, the RF197:
RF197 1.22 Kwh per day = 101.6 Ah = 4.23 amps
RF18 1.63 Kwh per day = 135.8 Ah = 5.66 amps
5.66 amps is no where near the 15 amp reading I'm getting on my inverter monitor. Now I have to figure why why the discrepancy.
The Hensons said
07:48 AM Oct 26, 2014
bjoyce wrote:
The 15 AMPs is not continous, most of the time when it runs it will be under 3 AMPs and it will have times it is using close to zero. The daily usage should still be in the 100 Amp-hour range.
That's what I am hoping...but I've been monitoring it and it seems to be consistently at 14-15 amps.
I am beginning to wonder if the Magnum inverter is giving me a false reading as well. The RV fridge I replaced also gave me very high amp readings that did not 'jive' with its published energy use.
-- Edited by The Hensons on Sunday 26th of October 2014 07:50:17 AM
The Magnum, if you have the battery monitor installed, will track total uses. But, total uses will include all of your 12 volt loads and any parasitic 120 volt loads. It is common to have 20 to 40 amp-hours of other loads in 24 hours. I like to zero out and then monitor the rAH meter value on the Magnum to see how much is really being used.
Not all meters correctly read modified sinewave, you have not said if the Magnum is modified or pure sinewave. Also, not all meters and monitors are fast enough to catch very short term values, so you could have a 15 amp spike happen faster than it is detected.
-- Edited by bjoyce on Sunday 26th of October 2014 10:50:22 AM
-- Edited by bjoyce on Sunday 26th of October 2014 10:50:46 AM
The Hensons said
01:56 PM Oct 26, 2014
Thanks for that...
Yes, I have that Kill-A-Watt but can't wedge it in where my outlet is so I will have to figure that out. I think you are right...this is the only way to really know.
My inverter is a PSW (Magnum 3012). I do have the battery monitor on it but I've isolated the fridge...it's the only breaker turned on. So, it should not be reading all the other 12V usage, right?
Terry and Jo said
02:42 PM Oct 26, 2014
Kyle,
That looks like a good job, and you were right....that freezer handle is very close.
You are quite welcome. It is always a pleasure to be able to help others.
Now, go get some ice cream for the freezer. It will stay a lot harder in the Samsung.
Terry
Bob and Lindy said
08:12 AM Oct 27, 2014
You're install looks great. The fridge looks like our Whirlpool. Do you have a lock for the doors/drawer for travel? Ours came with a 'z' bracket that sits on the drawer with lip down over front of freezer and other lip up behind doors. Also a Velcro strap through the door handles will keep all the goodies inside ... until you open after travel, then be careful.
The Hensons said
08:38 AM Oct 27, 2014
Bob and Lindy wrote:
You're install looks great. The fridge looks like our Whirlpool. Do you have a lock for the doors/drawer for travel? Ours came with a 'z' bracket that sits on the drawer with lip down over front of freezer and other lip up behind doors. Also a Velcro strap through the door handles will keep all the goodies inside ... until you open after travel, then be careful.
Thanks Bob and Lindy! No I do not have the locking figured out yet. I am curious about your Z brackets though. I can't picture it based on your description. If you have a moment and feel so inclined, could you take a picture of it?
^^^ This is what I did. I used a foam board reinforced with duct dape though so that it wedges in the handles a little better and it's gentler. Not as pretty as hers though.
It took me almost 4 days when all was said and done...but I am pretty pleased with the results! Swapped out the infamous Dometic 1350RM (which has been problematic since we bought the RV in '11) for the new Samsung RF18 (replaces the RF197). I spent more time measuring and re-measuring to make sure everything would fit than I did actual work (and you can see I have scarcely a hair to spare with the slide in). The new RF18 from what I can tell is about 1" taller than the RF197 making the install a little more tricky. I ended up lowering the fridge floor to about 8.5" above the kitchen floor. I also cut out slots for the wheels to drop into to cheat the height a little bit. I believe that ended up being an unnecessary step admittedly. I did remove the front rollers on the fridge. To brace it down I basically screwed two 3" x 6" metal plates perpendicular to the front of the floor to 'stop' the fridge from moving forward. I have about 1" between the fridge and the back wall.
I can't thank Terry Miller enough for his very helpful blog posts and photo gallery from his conversion! He also took the time to chat on the phone a while to answer some questions for me :)
Oh, and of course thanks to Greg Young at RV Solar Solutions for installing a fantastic solar system to make all of this possible.
One thing I am a little concerned about with the fridge is that is seems to be pulling 15 amps when I isolate it on my inverter. I suppose I expected less but maybe I don't quite understand how that translates into 'amp hour' cycles. I know fridges like the RF197 would use about 100Ah in a 24 hr cycle...does that translate into 4.16 amps (100/24 = 4.16)? Does that mean that my fridge is actually using 360Ah (15a x 24h)? Surely that can't be.
RF197 1.22 Kwh per day = 101.6 Ah = 4.23 amps
RF18 1.63 Kwh per day = 135.8 Ah = 5.66 amps
5.66 amps is no where near the 15 amp reading I'm getting on my inverter monitor. Now I have to figure why why the discrepancy.
That's what I am hoping...but I've been monitoring it and it seems to be consistently at 14-15 amps.
I am beginning to wonder if the Magnum inverter is giving me a false reading as well. The RV fridge I replaced also gave me very high amp readings that did not 'jive' with its published energy use.
-- Edited by The Hensons on Sunday 26th of October 2014 07:50:17 AM
To really see the 120 volt usage, you need something hooked to the fridge itself like a Kill-A-Watt (http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU) or a TS-836 (http://www.amazon.com/TS-836A-Energy-Voltage-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B00E945SJG), which is what I own. The TS-836 will track max/min, but you need to reset it with a paperclip between uses.
The Magnum, if you have the battery monitor installed, will track total uses. But, total uses will include all of your 12 volt loads and any parasitic 120 volt loads. It is common to have 20 to 40 amp-hours of other loads in 24 hours. I like to zero out and then monitor the rAH meter value on the Magnum to see how much is really being used.
Not all meters correctly read modified sinewave, you have not said if the Magnum is modified or pure sinewave. Also, not all meters and monitors are fast enough to catch very short term values, so you could have a 15 amp spike happen faster than it is detected.
-- Edited by bjoyce on Sunday 26th of October 2014 10:50:22 AM
-- Edited by bjoyce on Sunday 26th of October 2014 10:50:46 AM
Yes, I have that Kill-A-Watt but can't wedge it in where my outlet is so I will have to figure that out. I think you are right...this is the only way to really know.
My inverter is a PSW (Magnum 3012). I do have the battery monitor on it but I've isolated the fridge...it's the only breaker turned on. So, it should not be reading all the other 12V usage, right?
Kyle,
That looks like a good job, and you were right....that freezer handle is very close.
You are quite welcome. It is always a pleasure to be able to help others.
Now, go get some ice cream for the freezer. It will stay a lot harder in the Samsung.
Terry
Thanks Bob and Lindy! No I do not have the locking figured out yet. I am curious about your Z brackets though. I can't picture it based on your description. If you have a moment and feel so inclined, could you take a picture of it?
I have linked to this before, a U-shaped latch made of wood and cloth (to protect the finish) - http://normansonthehorizon.blogspot.com/2012/09/samsung-refrigerator-door-lock.html.
^^^ This is what I did. I used a foam board reinforced with duct dape though so that it wedges in the handles a little better and it's gentler. Not as pretty as hers though.