Its been while since I have been on the forum but the last time I was here we were considering a Class A RV. But things have changed and now we are considering getting into the life style via..."Baby Steps."
Travel trailers seem to be the lowest cost of entry point into the lifestyle and since we are going to buy a new SUV anyway, we thought that it would be an easy decision. After going to a couple of shows and dealerships, I think that we have settled on a size between 28-31 ft. From what we have been told, we should allow for between 6500-7500 lbs weight for towing capacity with a new SUV. So we are looking at the Tahoe or the Ford Expedition. But a few questions have come up that I am not sure about:
4 WHEEL DRIVE OR TWO WHEEL DRIVE? - TWO WHEEL GETS BETTER GAS MILEAGE
OBVIOUSLY TOWING PACKAGE - ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS WITH OTHER ADD ON EQUIPMENT?
TRAILER: WHEN BUYING A NEW TRAILER IT SEEMS TO ME THAT MOST OF THE ELECTRICAL AND PLUMBING SYSTEMS ARE PRETTY SIMPLE. What things should I look for when buying a used Trailer?
Thanks !
Mike
NWescapee said
09:13 AM Oct 23, 2014
I don't think a RV inspection checklist would be much different for a used TT vs. any other type of RV. I know we had a suggested list that we copied out of a book we had from www.rv.org/
We paid the subscription fee that allowed us to read ratings and reviews on pre-owned models, gave us ideas on what to look for, etc.
Obviously you want to make sure all the mechanical, electrical and plumbing systems are working, you want to look for any signs of water leaking or previous water damage, etc. I know a search on Google produced several different checklists if you don't have one.
I'd suggest you take your time, get the dealer or owner out of the rig for a while so you have uninterrupted time to look and inspect.
NWescapee said
09:14 AM Oct 23, 2014
One other suggestion on the tow vehicle, if you have any option to have mirrors that extend or larger mirrors, that's always helpful when towing.
el Rojo and Pam said
09:16 AM Oct 23, 2014
I would buy at least a 3/4 ton. I always buy 4WD because they help in slippery (gravel) situations when on steeper grades or backing in up hill. 4WD is not necessary but I prefer it. And if your towing forget about mileage, Mobil becomes one your best friends, you see him often.
Red
Alie and Jims Carrilite said
11:16 AM Oct 23, 2014
As you look at different brands that you're interested in, find the owners forum for that brand and see what the quirks are with the particular model. Most owners will point out the negative points pretty quick.
As far as towing, the 4wheel drive will lower the tow rating, but gives you more places to visit. Not that I'd go wheeling a Tahoe down some Jeep trails, but on wet or slippery sites, backing uphill, it's nice to have.
Find the vehicle you want first, then find the RV that's 20% under the tow ratings for that vehicle. In other words stay within 80% of your gross combined weight rating for safety.
Big Mike said
12:03 PM Oct 23, 2014
Thank you very much. I do have a checklist that I got from Buying an RV book. I do plant to use that. Great suggestion about the mirrors. I did not think of that.
Big Mike said
12:05 PM Oct 23, 2014
Great thoughts on that one. Yes, Mobil, Exxon and other places seem to salivate when you pull your rig into the station.
Big Mike said
12:06 PM Oct 23, 2014
Alie and Jims Carrilite wrote:
As you look at different brands that you're interested in, find the owners forum for that brand and see what the quirks are with the particular model. Most owners will point out the negative points pretty quick. As far as towing, the 4wheel drive will lower the tow rating, but gives you more places to visit. Not that I'd go wheeling a Tahoe down some Jeep trails, but on wet or slippery sites, backing uphill, it's nice to have. Find the vehicle you want first, then find the RV that's 20% under the tow ratings for that vehicle. In other words stay within 80% of your gross combined weight rating for safety.
Great suggestion. Thank you.
kb0zke said
06:42 PM Oct 23, 2014
"After going to a couple of shows and dealerships, I think that we have settled on a size between 28-31 ft. From what we have been told, we should allow for between 6500-7500 lbs weight for towing capacity with a new SUV." That seems rather light to me. For example, the Airstream Classic has a gross weight of 10,000 pounds (www.airstream.com/travel-trailers/classic/floor-plans-specifications) while the empty weight is 7365. Sales people like to quote that empty weight, but that isn't the weight of the trailer as it will actually be used, and may not even be the weight of the trailer as it sits on the lot. Options are not included in that empty weight.
Sushidog said
07:48 AM Oct 24, 2014
Agreed, 6,500-7,500 lbs is indeed too light for planning purposes. I purchased a 3/4 ton diesel for towing a similar TT. If you're planning on full-timing then look for at least 3,000 lbs. CCC, more if you plan on adding a large solar system for boondocking. Because they are "entry level" most TTs are rather cheaply made with very low carrying capacities. Even the better ones, like Jayco, often have unsuitable carrying capacity, making them a poor choice for carrying all your worldly goods. Don't forget the vehicle's carrying ability too. I don't know of any SUVs that I would be comfortable pulling one with. Even the top rated Chevrolet Suburban 2500/GMC Yukon XL 2500 top out at 9,600 pounds. Even 3/4 and 1 ton full sized cargo vans top out around 10,000 lbs. of towing capacity.
Instead I would look at a 3/4 ton pick-up (or larger) with a topper over the bed. My 2008 3/4 ton F-250 is rated to tow a max of 12,500 lbs., so if I follow the 80% rule that means I have about 10,000 lbs. of real world capacity. Subtract 3,000-3,500 lbs. for cargo (it's amazing how fast it adds up) and that means that my camper's dry weight should not exceed 6,500 - 7,000 lbs. Something like this would be a good choice for me: A Wildcat 28 RFX www.forestriverinc.com/TravelTrailers/WildcatWest/default.aspx
As far as 4wd goes, large diesel vehicles are front heavy, and 2wd ones like mine usually have poor traction, especially on sand, grass and wet clay surfaces. Sometimes I wish I would have held out for a 4wd, in spite of the 1 mpg or so hit. What will 1 mpg cost you over the life of your vehicle? Let's say your mileage drops from an average of 12 mpg to 11 mpg towing with a 4wd vehicle. I plan on keeping my truck for at least 400,000k miles (I have 300,000 miles on my current 4 cyl. car.), so 12 mpg = 33,333 gallons/diesel x $4/gallon = $133,332 in fuel costs vs 36,363 gallons x $4/gallon = $145,452 or about $12,000 savings, spread over the life of the vehicle. Since my truck only cost me $11,000, this small difference in mpg is will end up costing me more than I initially paid for my TV! Of course, your mileage, usage, towing speed, etc. will certainly be different than mine. This is just one example to get you thinking how much fuel economy is really worth. Everything in life is a trade off. If you can afford a 4wd, I say go for it, as it sure is useful - just do so with both eyes open. I will have a very limited income, so I must make other choices. But look t it this way, that $12,000 can buy me a whole new (slightly used) truck, or even a new (slightly used TT) if I need to buy a replacement one day. You never know.
Chip
el Rojo and Pam said
08:43 AM Oct 24, 2014
Chip, one way I compensate for the 4WD is to slow down. I now prefer to drive 55 to 60 instead of 65 or 70. I do have to speed up in metro areas to keep with the flow of traffic for safety. Being a FTer what difference does it make where I stop, here or 25 miles down the road. I do realize though a 2WD at 55 to 60 would even be better. As you said we all make choices that fit our personalities.
-- Edited by el Rojo and Pam on Friday 24th of October 2014 08:44:56 AM
Sushidog said
05:01 PM Oct 24, 2014
I plan on building an aerodynamic topper for my truck that will have lightweight Coroplast airstream diverters (flaps), possibly equipped with Air Tabs, to ease the air smoothly around the TT. These flaps will be movable about 30 degrees inward too to streamline the truck and improve mileage when I'm not towing. The trailer will also have a fixed Coroplast tail cone to help with streamlining too, improving handling in crosswinds, and reducing sway when trucks are passing too). I plan on towing at the slowest possible safe speed, around 50 mph when possible, (staying off of interstates when practical, as I'd much rather see the "real America" from secondary roads) but I realize that there will be times that I must exceed this ideal economic speed for safety sake. The streamlining will really come into its own then. I will also try to travel during low traffic times, especially when passing though cities and congested areas. I will also use some hypermiling techniques, anticipating stops far in advance to minimize braking, conserving momentum (coasting when possible, letting speed fall naturally on up-hills and letting momentum build naturally on down-hills.) I do this now when towing my Aliner with a 4cyl car. Not only is this fun and challenging, but it will save us money (both in fuel and wear and tear on the truck) for other fun things. This is the primary reason for deciding on a 3/4 ton diesel TV pulling a relatively light weight (low mass to accelerate) TT. Of course an Airstream or a HiLo would offer better aerodynamics, yielding a lower CdA drag coefficient), but they cost so much, even used (increasing the aerodynamic savings payback time) and require so many compromises (limited carrying capacity, storage space, slides, limited floorplans, etc.) that I no longer consider them viable FT options for us (though I'll concede they are for many).
Chip
Diana and Jim said
05:50 PM Oct 24, 2014
30 feet is a lot behind an SUV. The tail will be wagging the dog. If there is any way you can make a crew cab pickup work instead, maybe consider a fifth wheel? Not a lot of difference between that and a TT, money wise. Just a thought.
Jim (and Diana)
kb0zke said
06:22 PM Oct 24, 2014
Many years ago (>50) Wally Byam wrote a book, Trailer Travel Here and Abroad, in which he said that the trailer should weigh less than the tow vehicle. Back then, of course, drum brakes at all corners were the only brakes available, vehicles were heavier, and trailers were lighter. I'm not sure that such a ratio is necessary today, but I'm thinking that if I wanted a 10,000-pound-GW Airstream I'd want at least an F350-class truck to tow it.
Its been while since I have been on the forum but the last time I was here we were considering a Class A RV. But things have changed and now we are considering getting into the life style via..."Baby Steps."
Travel trailers seem to be the lowest cost of entry point into the lifestyle and since we are going to buy a new SUV anyway, we thought that it would be an easy decision. After going to a couple of shows and dealerships, I think that we have settled on a size between 28-31 ft. From what we have been told, we should allow for between 6500-7500 lbs weight for towing capacity with a new SUV. So we are looking at the Tahoe or the Ford Expedition. But a few questions have come up that I am not sure about:
TRAILER: WHEN BUYING A NEW TRAILER IT SEEMS TO ME THAT MOST OF THE ELECTRICAL AND PLUMBING SYSTEMS ARE PRETTY SIMPLE. What things should I look for when buying a used Trailer?
Thanks !
Mike
We paid the subscription fee that allowed us to read ratings and reviews on pre-owned models, gave us ideas on what to look for, etc.
Obviously you want to make sure all the mechanical, electrical and plumbing systems are working, you want to look for any signs of water leaking or previous water damage, etc. I know a search on Google produced several different checklists if you don't have one.
I'd suggest you take your time, get the dealer or owner out of the rig for a while so you have uninterrupted time to look and inspect.
Red
As far as towing, the 4wheel drive will lower the tow rating, but gives you more places to visit. Not that I'd go wheeling a Tahoe down some Jeep trails, but on wet or slippery sites, backing uphill, it's nice to have.
Find the vehicle you want first, then find the RV that's 20% under the tow ratings for that vehicle. In other words stay within 80% of your gross combined weight rating for safety.
Thank you very much. I do have a checklist that I got from Buying an RV book. I do plant to use that. Great suggestion about the mirrors. I did not think of that.
Great thoughts on that one. Yes, Mobil, Exxon and other places seem to salivate when you pull your rig into the station.
Great suggestion. Thank you.
Instead I would look at a 3/4 ton pick-up (or larger) with a topper over the bed. My 2008 3/4 ton F-250 is rated to tow a max of 12,500 lbs., so if I follow the 80% rule that means I have about 10,000 lbs. of real world capacity. Subtract 3,000-3,500 lbs. for cargo (it's amazing how fast it adds up) and that means that my camper's dry weight should not exceed 6,500 - 7,000 lbs. Something like this would be a good choice for me: A Wildcat 28 RFX www.forestriverinc.com/TravelTrailers/WildcatWest/default.aspx
As far as 4wd goes, large diesel vehicles are front heavy, and 2wd ones like mine usually have poor traction, especially on sand, grass and wet clay surfaces. Sometimes I wish I would have held out for a 4wd, in spite of the 1 mpg or so hit. What will 1 mpg cost you over the life of your vehicle? Let's say your mileage drops from an average of 12 mpg to 11 mpg towing with a 4wd vehicle. I plan on keeping my truck for at least 400,000k miles (I have 300,000 miles on my current 4 cyl. car.), so 12 mpg = 33,333 gallons/diesel x $4/gallon = $133,332 in fuel costs vs 36,363 gallons x $4/gallon = $145,452 or about $12,000 savings, spread over the life of the vehicle. Since my truck only cost me $11,000, this small difference in mpg is will end up costing me more than I initially paid for my TV! Of course, your mileage, usage, towing speed, etc. will certainly be different than mine. This is just one example to get you thinking how much fuel economy is really worth. Everything in life is a trade off. If you can afford a 4wd, I say go for it, as it sure is useful - just do so with both eyes open. I will have a very limited income, so I must make other choices. But look t it this way, that $12,000 can buy me a whole new (slightly used) truck, or even a new (slightly used TT) if I need to buy a replacement one day. You never know.
Chip
Chip, one way I compensate for the 4WD is to slow down. I now prefer to drive 55 to 60 instead of 65 or 70. I do have to speed up in metro areas to keep with the flow of traffic for safety. Being a FTer what difference does it make where I stop, here or 25 miles down the road. I do realize though a 2WD at 55 to 60 would even be better. As you said we all make choices that fit our personalities.
-- Edited by el Rojo and Pam on Friday 24th of October 2014 08:44:56 AM
Chip
Jim (and Diana)
Many years ago (>50) Wally Byam wrote a book, Trailer Travel Here and Abroad, in which he said that the trailer should weigh less than the tow vehicle. Back then, of course, drum brakes at all corners were the only brakes available, vehicles were heavier, and trailers were lighter. I'm not sure that such a ratio is necessary today, but I'm thinking that if I wanted a 10,000-pound-GW Airstream I'd want at least an F350-class truck to tow it.