Folks, I'm brand new on this site but have been RVing for 20 years. Never had solar on the RV and I'm finding it necessary now. Too many dry camping trips in close quarters to others where the generator is becoming less practical with fumes and noise. I'm in the exploratory stage right now and will probably start an install in the next month or so. Have read Jack's website until my eyes started to bleed; can't say as I have absorbed everything he has written but agree with a vast majority of his logic and what he recommends. I will undoubtedly have several questions as I proceed and those will come later.
A couple I would like to start with are: Is there a method I can follow at home to determine the integrity of my current batteries in anticipation of adding solar in the next month or so? My current battery bank consists of 2 AGM 8Ds (510AH) for house and one 8D chassis wet cell. The AGMs are 4-5 years old and 1 year on the chassis. My understanding for solar tax credit purposes is that you only get one bite of the apple so if I could determine my current batteries are marginal, it would be wise to replace them at the same time I do the install. On the other hand, I hate to throw out good batteries that are spendy to replace. If one of the AGMs turns out to be marginal and the other one is good, I would consider replacing both and using the better one for the starter battery. My logic is that I would like to get the wet cell out of the bay, which leads to my second question....
I realize it's frowned upon to put the charge controller in the battery bay so would it make any difference if all the batteries were AGMs rather than wet cells that gas? I've been going thru the coach for the past 2 weeks and have few alternatives for a suitable location for charge controller (other than battery bay) without putting it 20 feet from the batteries or lengthening my homerun from the combiner box to the batteries (20') by an additional 10' - 15' and even then, it would be in the way in a much used bay.
For background, the coach is a 2004 Country Coach, 36', 50A shorepower, with Xantrex RV2012 inverter/charger with remote over the front door. I've mapped out the install route for wires and don't anticipate any problems pulling wires. Only 2 of us in the coach, @ 60 days ( 4 to 5 at a time) boondocking during summer (primarily) and no fulltime. Would be looking at @800W in panels with a battery monitor over the front door.
Thanks on advance for any help and your thoughts.
joe
Jack Mayer said
11:13 AM Sep 11, 2014
Four year old AGM batteries are at about half life if they have been cared for. If you are not having issues with them I would keep them. Then, when they die add to the bank when you replace them, if you find the need for a larger bank. (and have the space).
You can put the controller in the battery compartment if you have AGMs. AGMs "can" outgas in exceptional circumstances, but not normally. If you had a way to place them outside of that area that would still be preferred, but in your circumstance I'd put them in there.
Lonney Wade said
04:35 PM Sep 11, 2014
Hello Joe, if I was in your boat, I would put one of the AGMs in the chassis to start the engine and sell the other ones on Craigslist, then go and buy your new AGMs.
I'm going with solar as soon as we sell our business. Until we sell we just sit and wait for a buyer to come and show us the money LOL.... We are looking at 4 of these solar panels total of 576 watts for a start then we can go fromthere.
Do you have a specific reason to use flexible panels? Generally, unless you have a special need you will be better off with conventional panels.
Ban-Joe said
12:32 AM Sep 12, 2014
Lonney, thanks for your thoughts about CL. I was giving that some thought but don't know if people buy stuff like that from CL. Will still consider this.
Jack, I wasn't thinking of using flexibles (I know that was just a test to see if I really read your stuff). I've been looking at AM Solar and considering their 160W panels. Right now, I'm thinking of 5 with either a 40 MPPT or a 45 MPPT but don't know anything about the other items that come in each kit, depending on the controller chosen. It looks like they both use #4 and I believe I read somewhere that 5 of the 160s were getting close to the limit of the 40 MPPT. I'd like to get recommendations from you on both kits, either here or by PM, if possible. I've also been reading up on the Fullriver 6V and certainly wouldn't argue with increasing the battery bank to 800AH with taller batteries. Right now, I have Lifelines, 8 Ds, and the back 3 or 4 inches are under the inverter shelf. Bottom of battery case to shelf is 18 1/2"; the remainder of the bay toward the outside I have @ 2' of clearance so height shouldn't be a problem, depending on the footprint of 4 6Vs. With 2 8Ds side by side, I would think I have enough room for 4 6Vs, even if they are taller. Do you still recommend these? I also like your idea of an air conditioner fuse panel with shutoff if I have room for it. Thanks for all the assistance. joe
Jack Mayer said
04:08 PM Sep 12, 2014
Joe, there are many choices that will work well. If you are going MPPT then looking at a true high voltage panel like the SolarWorld panels here is what I would do. The link is just an example...you can find these elsewhere.You just have to be sure that the physical size is acceptable for your mounting location. I'd rather see you assemble quality parts on your own than use anyones "kit". The kits always seem to contain compromises, and typically have an upcharge associated with them. That is a generalization, but I find it to be almost universally true.
For the batteries, if you have the height - which it seems you do - and the footprint space look at the Fullriver AGM L16's here. They are what I'm using in the new coach.
There are lots of ways to do the solar controller disconnect. Take a look at my document on them here. I've done it all the ways I describe in the document in the past. For others and myself. In this coach I have simple Blue Sea breakers. Sometimes simple is good.
Ban-Joe said
12:21 AM Sep 13, 2014
Jack, thanks. I'll take a look at those sites and see if I know enough to limit some of my choices. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions. Do you typically buy your parts online and then get wire and fittings locally or do you order everything you need from several sources online? joe
Jack Mayer said
09:16 PM Sep 13, 2014
Ban-Joe wrote:
Jack, thanks. I'll take a look at those sites and see if I know enough to limit some of my choices. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions. Do you typically buy your parts online and then get wire and fittings locally or do you order everything you need from several sources online? joe
It just depends. I usually had reels of wire when I was doing installs....and lots of other parts. So often I had what I needed. Now that my stock is greatly diminished I order most stuff online if I need it for the little work I currently do. I get welding wire at local welding shops - it is often cheaper. But you can order it online. There are parts sources on my website. I'm about to add a bill of materials for some of the sample systems. That will include the source. You can get stuff lots of places, though.
Lonney Wade said
12:00 AM Sep 14, 2014
Joe, this is the best wire on the market, they use this on electric cars. In 2008 I built a electric car and the orange cable carries the most amps because it is very very fine wire, if you compare the black wire to the orange wire you will see you can go smaller with the wire and save some money, still have the amps you want in the wire, it stays very flexible in cold weather, it's easy to work with also has a better and thicker outer casing. I have used the 4 gauge and 2/0 gauge wire in my projects and have a 11 ton hydraulic crimper with all the dies.
-- Edited by Lonney Wade on Sunday 14th of September 2014 12:01:44 AM
Ban-Joe said
01:23 AM Sep 14, 2014
I shouldn't have opened these posts this late at night. One site leads to another, to another, etc. I've never seen some of these tools. And I had to go back to researching after Jack mentioned high V panels. I just skimmed over it as I was certain I wanted the 16 to 18V panels. I see a lot of advantages with the HV, especially the price. I'll have to start writing down what I think I need for a system and all the parts involved. Thanks for all the help. joe
Jack Mayer said
08:54 AM Sep 14, 2014
Joe, if you put together your design and parts I'd be happy to review it for you and make comments....
Ban-Joe said
10:57 PM Sep 15, 2014
Jack, I may take you up on that offer but it may take me a while to get to that point. I need to identify what panels I will use before I can map this out.
I searched for some HV panels and with very few exceptions, all the panels I located (270-315W) were 69" or 79" by 39". I pulled the motorhome out of the barn and took photos of the top. I then took measurements of all obstructions. After going thru all the locations, I can place 2 panels up with one of them tight between a Fantastic fan/vent and the shower dome (39" distance between them). I may have room for a 3rd if I place it forward of the front A/C unit. I don't know about the wisdom of that far forward.
I talked to wholesalesolar today--very nice people. She said the 39" is standard width for HV panels. She had only one brand (Topoint) with a smaller footprint, 190W and 32" by 62" and rated at 24V nominal. I'll have to do some more measurements tomorrow but believe I can fit 4 but may be crowding the A/C shrouds a bit with 6" clearance. Also, how far should one keep the panels from the MH or trailer roof edge? These panels have an efficiency rating of 14 something and I have seen others that are 15 plus and 16 plus. Is this a huge difference in numbers or should I worry about that?
Final question for tonight is: whether its 24V, 30V, 35V or 45V, when wired in parallel, that higher V arrives at the controller and is reduced down to 12V or 14V, whatever the batteries call for. What happens to the excess V above the 12V or 14V? Does that affect amps or does it just dissipate?
I have photos of my project but have no clue as to how to download them onto here. Anyone with the ability to try to enlighten me would be appreciated also.
Thanks for the help
Joe
Terry and Jo said
11:08 AM Sep 16, 2014
Joe,
Go up to "Guidelines and Suggestions" and look for the thread with the title in the link below for instructions on how to post photos. I created that some time ago and used Photobucket as an example of a site for photo hosting. Photobucket is free if you choose not to go fancy.
Thanks, Terry, I'll look at that but like many people my age, I'll probably have to get my granddaughter here to do it for me .
Jack Mayer said
01:10 PM Sep 17, 2014
Joe, the extra voltage is basically converted to more amps.
Ban-Joe said
10:32 PM Sep 22, 2014
I think my vision is coming together with a workable system. Have searched locally and found a supplier for Sun World 280 mono and have 3 reserved when they come in in a couple of weeks. Panels are rated: Vmp 31.2V; Voc 39.5V; Imp 9.07A; and Isc 9.71A X 3 panels for 29.13A. These panels come with H4 connectors and internet search determined H4 connectors are compatible/intermateable with MC4 connectors. Panels are 66" by 39"; will be installed with smart feet, 3 to a side; pigtails from elec. supply are 10AWG. Homeruns to combiner box will be <7'. Purchased a combiner box, tube of 3M 5200, and weathertight entrance connectors. Elec. supply will provide hubs suitable for 10AWG and #4AWG.
Homerun to battery bay will be approx. 20'. Voltage drop calculator using copper, single conductor, #4AWG, DC current with Vmp at 31.2 and Isc 9.71 (X 3 panels) at 29.13A gives me a V drop at 18' of .83% and at 25' of 1.15%. Using these figures for #6 AWG gives a drop at 18' of 1.31% and at 25' a drop of 1.86%. I'll stay with the #4 AWG. What I don't know is the type of wire the online calculator bases its calculations on: #4 AWG black; #4 AWG black welders wire; or #4 AWG orange welders wire with finer strands. I located the #4 AWG black welders wire at a local welding supply shop for $1.04/ft. With such low V drop described above, I'm tempted to go with this wire on such a short run.
In the battery bay, incoming line will go to disconnect box (probably get Big Baby with DIN 40A breaker), on to the Tri Star MPPT60 controller, switch to #2 AWG out of the controller and through the disconnect with 60A breaker on this side, then on to the battery. Negative line will go straight to the controller, then switch to #2 to the battery. Battery is already wired to the factory installed Xantrex RV 2012 inverter/charger. Xantrex manual calls for run under 5' with 2/0 but factory wired with 4/0 with 300A fuse inline to inverter. V drop calculations from controller to battery at 4', 14.3V and current at 60A gives a drop using #4 of .84% and using #2 a drop of .52%. I'll use the #2 on the short run. A Trimetric 2030A battery monitor will be installed and monitor pulled to front of coach monitor panel. What I haven't decided is whether I need a remote monitor for the Tri Star controller or if the Trimetric will suffice for my purposes.
The local battery store will get me the Fullriver AGMs DC 400-6 at $455 each for an 800AH bank; he also suggested the DC 335-6 at $325 each for a 670AH bank. I'll probably go with the 335s since our usage is 100 to 125 AH daily and 800 AH is more than I need. The Xantrex manual also encourages usage of the same size wire for battery connections (ie. 4/0) as used from battery to inverter.
This is what I have so far. I'll be out of town for 4 days of each of the next two weeks so will start this project after that. Any comments, suggestions, or corrections on above would be appreciated.
Joe
-- Edited by Ban-Joe on Monday 22nd of September 2014 10:37:57 PM
bjoyce said
07:07 AM Sep 23, 2014
You will have to have a PC with a serial cable (USB to serial) to program the Tri Star for your AGM batteries. AM Solar keeps one Windows laptop for this purpose, otherwise they use Macs.
Jack Mayer said
09:03 AM Sep 23, 2014
bjoyce wrote:
You will have to have a PC with a serial cable (USB to serial) to program the Tri Star for your AGM batteries. AM Solar keeps one Windows laptop for this purpose, otherwise they use Macs.
Or set up an ethernet connection from the controller to your router. In any case you have to customize the programming. You will want to get the settings just right. If you do set up a PC connection then you don't "have" to have a remote panel. You can look at everything on your PC on your wireless network.
On the wire question - you can use any of the wire types quoted. So I'd use the locally available stuff.
On the battery interconnects - yes use the same size cable for the interconnects as the inverter lines.
Other than that, it looks like you have it nailed. See, it is not that hard..... :)
-- Edited by Jack Mayer on Tuesday 23rd of September 2014 09:04:13 AM
Ban-Joe said
10:14 PM Sep 23, 2014
Wow. First time through, no less. I was anticipating 2 or 3 corrections, at least. I'm sure I'll have questions after I get started. I'm already thinking that I have 2 temp. sensors on the 2 present batteries, probably hooked up to the inverter. By replacing two batteries with four, is there a sensor on each battery, and if so, do you have sensors for the controller as well as for the inverter? I haven't researched any of that yet. At any rate, I look forward to this project and thank you all for the help. PS: I ordered the MPPT 60 with the remote. I'll learn how to operate a computer someday. Joe
Bill and Linda said
10:30 AM Sep 24, 2014
bjoyce wrote:
You will have to have a PC with a serial cable (USB to serial) to program the Tri Star for your AGM batteries. AM Solar keeps one Windows laptop for this purpose, otherwise they use Macs.
If you are purchasing the Tri-Star from AM Solar and you tell them the exact batteries you are going to use they will pre-program the controller at the proper voltages for you. It will come "connect and play." They will also put a note on the unit as to what those settings were for your batteries that way you can set your 120 charger to match the Tri-Star if you like.
Folks, I'm brand new on this site but have been RVing for 20 years. Never had solar on the RV and I'm finding it necessary now. Too many dry camping trips in close quarters to others where the generator is becoming less practical with fumes and noise. I'm in the exploratory stage right now and will probably start an install in the next month or so. Have read Jack's website until my eyes started to bleed; can't say as I have absorbed everything he has written but agree with a vast majority of his logic and what he recommends. I will undoubtedly have several questions as I proceed and those will come later.
A couple I would like to start with are: Is there a method I can follow at home to determine the integrity of my current batteries in anticipation of adding solar in the next month or so? My current battery bank consists of 2 AGM 8Ds (510AH) for house and one 8D chassis wet cell. The AGMs are 4-5 years old and 1 year on the chassis. My understanding for solar tax credit purposes is that you only get one bite of the apple so if I could determine my current batteries are marginal, it would be wise to replace them at the same time I do the install. On the other hand, I hate to throw out good batteries that are spendy to replace. If one of the AGMs turns out to be marginal and the other one is good, I would consider replacing both and using the better one for the starter battery. My logic is that I would like to get the wet cell out of the bay, which leads to my second question....
I realize it's frowned upon to put the charge controller in the battery bay so would it make any difference if all the batteries were AGMs rather than wet cells that gas? I've been going thru the coach for the past 2 weeks and have few alternatives for a suitable location for charge controller (other than battery bay) without putting it 20 feet from the batteries or lengthening my homerun from the combiner box to the batteries (20') by an additional 10' - 15' and even then, it would be in the way in a much used bay.
For background, the coach is a 2004 Country Coach, 36', 50A shorepower, with Xantrex RV2012 inverter/charger with remote over the front door. I've mapped out the install route for wires and don't anticipate any problems pulling wires. Only 2 of us in the coach, @ 60 days ( 4 to 5 at a time) boondocking during summer (primarily) and no fulltime. Would be looking at @800W in panels with a battery monitor over the front door.
Thanks on advance for any help and your thoughts.
joe
You can put the controller in the battery compartment if you have AGMs. AGMs "can" outgas in exceptional circumstances, but not normally. If you had a way to place them outside of that area that would still be preferred, but in your circumstance I'd put them in there.
Hello Joe, if I was in your boat, I would put one of the AGMs in the chassis to start the engine and sell the other ones on Craigslist, then go and buy your new AGMs.
I'm going with solar as soon as we sell our business.
Until we sell we just sit and wait for a buyer to come and show us the money LOL....
We are looking at 4 of these solar panels total of 576 watts for a start then we can go from there.
http://www.amazon.com/UniSolar-ePVL-144-Laminate-Amorphous-Solar/dp/B00CGAEJCW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?&tag=rnwap-20
Lonney
Lonney, thanks for your thoughts about CL. I was giving that some thought but don't know if people buy stuff like that from CL. Will still consider this.
Jack, I wasn't thinking of using flexibles (I know that was just a test to see if I really read your stuff). I've been looking at AM Solar and considering their 160W panels. Right now, I'm thinking of 5 with either a 40 MPPT or a 45 MPPT but don't know anything about the other items that come in each kit, depending on the controller chosen. It looks like they both use #4 and I believe I read somewhere that 5 of the 160s were getting close to the limit of the 40 MPPT. I'd like to get recommendations from you on both kits, either here or by PM, if possible. I've also been reading up on the Fullriver 6V and certainly wouldn't argue with increasing the battery bank to 800AH with taller batteries. Right now, I have Lifelines, 8 Ds, and the back 3 or 4 inches are under the inverter shelf. Bottom of battery case to shelf is 18 1/2"; the remainder of the bay toward the outside I have @ 2' of clearance so height shouldn't be a problem, depending on the footprint of 4 6Vs. With 2 8Ds side by side, I would think I have enough room for 4 6Vs, even if they are taller. Do you still recommend these? I also like your idea of an air conditioner fuse panel with shutoff if I have room for it. Thanks for all the assistance. joe
Joe, there are many choices that will work well. If you are going MPPT then looking at a true high voltage panel like the SolarWorld panels here is what I would do. The link is just an example...you can find these elsewhere.You just have to be sure that the physical size is acceptable for your mounting location. I'd rather see you assemble quality parts on your own than use anyones "kit". The kits always seem to contain compromises, and typically have an upcharge associated with them. That is a generalization, but I find it to be almost universally true.
For the batteries, if you have the height - which it seems you do - and the footprint space look at the Fullriver AGM L16's here. They are what I'm using in the new coach.
There are lots of ways to do the solar controller disconnect. Take a look at my document on them here. I've done it all the ways I describe in the document in the past. For others and myself. In this coach I have simple Blue Sea breakers. Sometimes simple is good.
It just depends. I usually had reels of wire when I was doing installs....and lots of other parts. So often I had what I needed. Now that my stock is greatly diminished I order most stuff online if I need it for the little work I currently do. I get welding wire at local welding shops - it is often cheaper. But you can order it online. There are parts sources on my website. I'm about to add a bill of materials for some of the sample systems. That will include the source. You can get stuff lots of places, though.
Joe, this is the best wire on the market, they use this on electric cars.
In 2008 I built a electric car and the orange cable carries the most amps because it is very very fine wire, if you compare the black wire to the orange wire you will see you can go smaller with the wire and save some money, still have the amps you want in the wire, it stays very flexible in cold weather, it's easy to work with also has a better and thicker outer casing.
I have used the 4 gauge and 2/0 gauge wire in my projects and have a 11 ton hydraulic crimper with all the dies.
http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/Welding-Cable/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-ga-600-mcm-HYDRAULIC-LUG-CRIMPER-TOOL-Electrical-Terminal-Cable-Wire-/371110937710?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5667ef846e
Lonney
-- Edited by Lonney Wade on Sunday 14th of September 2014 12:01:44 AM
I searched for some HV panels and with very few exceptions, all the panels I located (270-315W) were 69" or 79" by 39". I pulled the motorhome out of the barn and took photos of the top. I then took measurements of all obstructions. After going thru all the locations, I can place 2 panels up with one of them tight between a Fantastic fan/vent and the shower dome (39" distance between them). I may have room for a 3rd if I place it forward of the front A/C unit. I don't know about the wisdom of that far forward.
I talked to wholesalesolar today--very nice people. She said the 39" is standard width for HV panels. She had only one brand (Topoint) with a smaller footprint, 190W and 32" by 62" and rated at 24V nominal. I'll have to do some more measurements tomorrow but believe I can fit 4 but may be crowding the A/C shrouds a bit with 6" clearance. Also, how far should one keep the panels from the MH or trailer roof edge? These panels have an efficiency rating of 14 something and I have seen others that are 15 plus and 16 plus. Is this a huge difference in numbers or should I worry about that?
Final question for tonight is: whether its 24V, 30V, 35V or 45V, when wired in parallel, that higher V arrives at the controller and is reduced down to 12V or 14V, whatever the batteries call for. What happens to the excess V above the 12V or 14V? Does that affect amps or does it just dissipate?
I have photos of my project but have no clue as to how to download them onto here. Anyone with the ability to try to enlighten me would be appreciated also.
Thanks for the help
Joe
Joe,
Go up to "Guidelines and Suggestions" and look for the thread with the title in the link below for instructions on how to post photos. I created that some time ago and used Photobucket as an example of a site for photo hosting. Photobucket is free if you choose not to go fancy.
Guidelines Regarding Embedding Photos into Forum Posts
Terry
I think my vision is coming together with a workable system. Have searched locally and found a supplier for Sun World 280 mono and have 3 reserved when they come in in a couple of weeks. Panels are rated: Vmp 31.2V; Voc 39.5V; Imp 9.07A; and Isc 9.71A X 3 panels for 29.13A. These panels come with H4 connectors and internet search determined H4 connectors are compatible/intermateable with MC4 connectors. Panels are 66" by 39"; will be installed with smart feet, 3 to a side; pigtails from elec. supply are 10AWG. Homeruns to combiner box will be <7'. Purchased a combiner box, tube of 3M 5200, and weathertight entrance connectors. Elec. supply will provide hubs suitable for 10AWG and #4AWG.
Homerun to battery bay will be approx. 20'. Voltage drop calculator using copper, single conductor, #4AWG, DC current with Vmp at 31.2 and Isc 9.71 (X 3 panels) at 29.13A gives me a V drop at 18' of .83% and at 25' of 1.15%. Using these figures for #6 AWG gives a drop at 18' of 1.31% and at 25' a drop of 1.86%. I'll stay with the #4 AWG. What I don't know is the type of wire the online calculator bases its calculations on: #4 AWG black; #4 AWG black welders wire; or #4 AWG orange welders wire with finer strands. I located the #4 AWG black welders wire at a local welding supply shop for $1.04/ft. With such low V drop described above, I'm tempted to go with this wire on such a short run.
In the battery bay, incoming line will go to disconnect box (probably get Big Baby with DIN 40A breaker), on to the Tri Star MPPT60 controller, switch to #2 AWG out of the controller and through the disconnect with 60A breaker on this side, then on to the battery. Negative line will go straight to the controller, then switch to #2 to the battery. Battery is already wired to the factory installed Xantrex RV 2012 inverter/charger. Xantrex manual calls for run under 5' with 2/0 but factory wired with 4/0 with 300A fuse inline to inverter. V drop calculations from controller to battery at 4', 14.3V and current at 60A gives a drop using #4 of .84% and using #2 a drop of .52%. I'll use the #2 on the short run. A Trimetric 2030A battery monitor will be installed and monitor pulled to front of coach monitor panel. What I haven't decided is whether I need a remote monitor for the Tri Star controller or if the Trimetric will suffice for my purposes.
The local battery store will get me the Fullriver AGMs DC 400-6 at $455 each for an 800AH bank; he also suggested the DC 335-6 at $325 each for a 670AH bank. I'll probably go with the 335s since our usage is 100 to 125 AH daily and 800 AH is more than I need. The Xantrex manual also encourages usage of the same size wire for battery connections (ie. 4/0) as used from battery to inverter.
This is what I have so far. I'll be out of town for 4 days of each of the next two weeks so will start this project after that. Any comments, suggestions, or corrections on above would be appreciated.
Joe
-- Edited by Ban-Joe on Monday 22nd of September 2014 10:37:57 PM
Or set up an ethernet connection from the controller to your router. In any case you have to customize the programming. You will want to get the settings just right. If you do set up a PC connection then you don't "have" to have a remote panel. You can look at everything on your PC on your wireless network.
On the wire question - you can use any of the wire types quoted. So I'd use the locally available stuff.
On the battery interconnects - yes use the same size cable for the interconnects as the inverter lines.
Other than that, it looks like you have it nailed. See, it is not that hard..... :)
-- Edited by Jack Mayer on Tuesday 23rd of September 2014 09:04:13 AM
If you are purchasing the Tri-Star from AM Solar and you tell them the exact batteries you are going to use they will pre-program the controller at the proper voltages for you. It will come "connect and play." They will also put a note on the unit as to what those settings were for your batteries that way you can set your 120 charger to match the Tri-Star if you like.
Nice people to deal with.