Since I have no Generator in my Generator bay and it is empty and has the wiring and Transfer box already installed this is where I'm going to put all the solar stuff in there.
Plus I gotta buy cables and Thats it!
Let me know what you think
Thanks :)
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 04:40:04 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 04:54:13 PM
Lucky Mike said
04:55 PM Sep 6, 2014
6000 watt inverter?.....either you have an all electric rig , or your over sizing.......and if you need 6000 watts your 4 batteries short of a full deck for boondocking
hozer said
05:02 PM Sep 6, 2014
Lucky Mike wrote:
6000 watt inverter?.....either you have an all electric rig , or your over sizing.......and if you need 6000 watts your 4 batteries short of a full deck for boondocking
Did you read the specs for the batteries? these are not your typical deep cell solar batteries. Each battery weighs 123 lbs each and run 480 AH each and run around $500 bux each. Also..... I use approx. 500 to 600 KWH per month on the pole. That's 20 KWH per day and I'm trying to get down to at least 50 to 70% less per month by going solar. ( not full time solar ) My Coleman AC Unit runs at 71 amps. That's 852 watts just by it self not including the refer, Microwave, computers 50" 3D TV or any other devices.
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:07:09 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:09:48 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:10:45 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:21:22 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:40:27 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:41:15 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:42:41 PM
Edit by moderator: Deleting questionable words. Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Sunday 7th of September 2014 07:09:56 PM
Sushidog said
06:48 PM Sep 6, 2014
How are you planning to convert the 24v to 12 v to run your 12v appliances - a 12v dc/dc? The reason I ask is I am thinking of building a 48v solar system myself, and plan on using one or more of these for minor 12 v needs www.amazon.com/Converter-Regulator-48V-12V-120W/dp/B00965W4TU. I was thinking on just using cheap GC-2s (golf cart batteries) because of the cost, but if I did go with the Rolls/Surrettes it would be the S-550 flooded type, as you can get 428AH for only $340ea, from Wholesale Solar. I don't think I could handle the almost 1,000 lbs that 8 would weigh though. The main reason for going with 48 volts is I plan on getting a high-efficiency 48v mini-split heat pump for off grid ac use. www.hotspotenergy.com/DC-air-conditioner/
I also think your 6000 watt inverter is overkill and oversizing it by so much will reduce it's efficiency. It might be more cost effective to use a more efficient AC, like the one in the previous link. Here's a link to some more efficient units: www.theelectricalresource.com/category/solar-air-conditioners.html
BTW, how many watts of solar do you plan on using?
Chip
Lucky Mike said
06:48 PM Sep 6, 2014
it will not be cost effective ........the efficiency of average solar charge input compared to your draw it will be money out the window ,your basically spending the money you would have given to the electric company for a power system that you now will have to maintain.......your system will be out of warranty and due for new batteries before you break even
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Saturday 6th of September 2014 06:50:17 PM
hozer said
07:14 PM Sep 6, 2014
Sushidog wrote:
How are you planning to convert the 24v to 12 v to run your 12v appliances - a 12v dc/dc? The reason I ask is I am thinking of building a 48v solar system myself, and plan on using one or more of these for minor 12 v needs www.amazon.com/Converter-Regulator-48V-12V-120W/dp/B00965W4TU. I was thinking on just using cheap GC-2s (golf cart batteries) because of the cost, but if I did go with the Rolls/Surrettes it would be the S-550 flooded type, as you can get 428AH for only $340ea, from Wholesale Solar. I don't think I could handle the almost 1,000 lbs that 8 would weigh though. The main reason for going with 48 volts is I plan on getting a high-efficiency 48v mini-split heat pump for off grid ac use. www.hotspotenergy.com/DC-air-conditioner/
I also think your 6000 watt inverter is overkill and oversizing it by so much will reduce it's efficiency. It might be more cost effective to use a more efficient AC, like the one in the previous link. Here's a link to some more efficient units: www.theelectricalresource.com/category/solar-air-conditioners.html
BTW, how many watts of solar do you plan on using?
Chip
I too was thinking about those big batteries for the system but way to heavy lol. that is why I went with the 485 AH batteries from Rolls plus the 10 year warranty. No I'm not converting anything at all. The inverter will output on 12, 24, 48 volt systems. Ya I dont go boondocking. I dont have a truck. I will always be on the pole I'm just trying to cut my electric in at least half. Now remember you will have about 10 to 20% line loss ( Cables ) It gets very cold way below freezing here in the winter and very hot 98's+ in the summer in in Grand Junction Colorado. That is why I'm kind going over board just a bit. Also Cold weather will affect you batteries no matter what battery company you use. I will be putting on electric heat tape on all my batteries in the winter. You dont want you battery temps to go less that 50 degrees and you dont want your batteries to go down less than 45% charge. Do some very good research. GET VERY TECHNICAL! The 12 volt solar systems are starting to go by the wayside. No BS.
My brother just bought this system for his 27 ft motor home. He tried to talk me into this system but I want something more beefy. and he sez it is good. Check out the Video just for fun............
http://totalsolar.us/
Cya
OOPS Forgot. I don't have any 12 volt appliances. All my stuff is pretty much 110 volt IE: Frigidaire residential refer and freezer 50" 3D TV, 48" TV in the bedroom, Fake log fireplace heater and 2 computers. Not including hair dryer and George Forman Grill, 2 Microwaves and Crock pot and stuff like that. My Rig is a 50 amp 40ft. 5Th Wheel..
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:17:55 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:25:19 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:25:55 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:28:15 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:56:32 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:58:47 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 08:18:31 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 08:19:58 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 08:23:36 PM
Edit by moderator: Deleted questionable words. Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Sunday 7th of September 2014 07:13:51 PM
Sushidog said
09:33 PM Sep 6, 2014
Cya, Lucky Mike is right. At current electric prices solar can't compete with the power companies on a cost/kwh (unless the government is subsidizing most of the cost of your system). The only reason to have solar at this point is if living off grid, saving not only electricity, and RV park rates but being ble to stay in beautiful remote areas to enjoy the true wilderness experience.
BTW, a MSW inverter is hard on appliances, electronic equipment, etc. and is not allowed to be used as a grid tied inverter (to sell power back to the utility company and lower your elecrtric bill) To do this you need a special type of inverter, a grid tie inverter, which is not designed to run any load by itself, but instead is designed to track the AC mains. The power company sets the voltage and the current and the grid tied inverter is slaved to the AC Mains, feeding clean, TSW power back into the grid for others to use. This means you need 2 inverters if you want to run any ac appliances and sell power back to the utility company to lower your bill.
Compare the cost/KWH in your area vs what it will cost you to generate power yourself (considering depreciation, repairs, the time value of money, etc.). If you are determined to use a grid tie system, check into the solar tax incentives that the federal government and many state governments offer and see if you qualify. If the government is paying for 80% of the initial cost of the system, (like in my state) it may indeed be a cost effective to add solar - if you qualify and can jump through all the hoops they require to get your tax credits - a daunting task.
Chip
Terry and Jo said
07:17 PM Sep 7, 2014
Hozer,
Have you replaced all your RV's lighting? If not, aren't a lot of those 12V?
Well this is my 1st post and was hoping to getting some feeback on a solar system I am thinking of puting together. It's gonna be expensive
Now I live in my 38ft 5er full time and live in Grand Junction Colorado
Here is the info:
This is a 24 volt Solar System!
Solar Panels:
I can get 4 of these Mono panels on my roof:
Sise: 64"X40" Weight 37lbs each 300 watts each for a total 1200 watts.
http://www.lg.com/us/commercial/sola...lg-LG300N1C-B3
================================================== ====================
Batteries:
4 - 460 AH each Rolls Maint. Free batteries 10 year warrantee. 1840 amp AH total
http://www.dcbattery.com/rollssurretteagm_s6-460agm.pdf
================================================== =========
6000 watt 24 volt power inverter:
http://www.aimscorp.net/6000-Watt-Pu...r-24-Volt.html
================================================== ==========
Solar Controller:
http://www.ecodirect.com/Xantrex-865...mppt60-150.htm
================================================== ==========
Since I have no Generator in my Generator bay and it is empty and has the wiring and Transfer box already installed this is where I'm going to put all the solar stuff in there.
Plus I gotta buy cables and Thats it!
Let me know what you think
Thanks :)
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 04:40:04 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 04:54:13 PM
Did you read the specs for the batteries? these are not your typical deep cell solar batteries. Each battery weighs 123 lbs each and run 480 AH each and run around $500 bux each. Also..... I use approx. 500 to 600 KWH per month on the pole. That's 20 KWH per day and I'm trying to get down to at least 50 to 70% less per month by going solar. ( not full time solar ) My Coleman AC Unit runs at 71 amps. That's 852 watts just by it self not including the refer, Microwave, computers 50" 3D TV or any other devices.
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:07:09 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:09:48 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:10:45 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:21:22 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:40:27 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:41:15 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 05:42:41 PM
Edit by moderator: Deleting questionable words. Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Sunday 7th of September 2014 07:09:56 PM
I also think your 6000 watt inverter is overkill and oversizing it by so much will reduce it's efficiency. It might be more cost effective to use a more efficient AC, like the one in the previous link. Here's a link to some more efficient units: www.theelectricalresource.com/category/solar-air-conditioners.html
BTW, how many watts of solar do you plan on using?
Chip
it will not be cost effective ........the efficiency of average solar charge input compared to your draw it will be money out the window ,your basically spending the money you would have given to the electric company for a power system that you now will have to maintain.......your system will be out of warranty and due for new batteries before you break even
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Saturday 6th of September 2014 06:50:17 PM
I too was thinking about those big batteries for the system but way to heavy lol. that is why I went with the 485 AH batteries from Rolls plus the 10 year warranty. No I'm not converting anything at all. The inverter will output on 12, 24, 48 volt systems. Ya I dont go boondocking. I dont have a truck. I will always be on the pole I'm just trying to cut my electric in at least half. Now remember you will have about 10 to 20% line loss ( Cables ) It gets very cold way below freezing here in the winter and very hot 98's+ in the summer in in Grand Junction Colorado. That is why I'm kind going over board just a bit. Also Cold weather will affect you batteries no matter what battery company you use. I will be putting on electric heat tape on all my batteries in the winter. You dont want you battery temps to go less that 50 degrees and you dont want your batteries to go down less than 45% charge. Do some very good research. GET VERY TECHNICAL! The 12 volt solar systems are starting to go by the wayside. No BS.
My brother just bought this system for his 27 ft motor home. He tried to talk me into this system but I want something more beefy. and he sez it is good. Check out the Video just for fun............
http://totalsolar.us/
Cya
OOPS Forgot. I don't have any 12 volt appliances. All my stuff is pretty much 110 volt IE: Frigidaire residential refer and freezer 50" 3D TV, 48" TV in the bedroom, Fake log fireplace heater and 2 computers. Not including hair dryer and George Forman Grill, 2 Microwaves and Crock pot and stuff like that. My Rig is a 50 amp 40ft. 5Th Wheel..
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:17:55 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:25:19 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:25:55 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:28:15 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:56:32 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 07:58:47 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 08:18:31 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 08:19:58 PM
-- Edited by hozer on Saturday 6th of September 2014 08:23:36 PM
Edit by moderator: Deleted questionable words. Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Sunday 7th of September 2014 07:13:51 PM
BTW, a MSW inverter is hard on appliances, electronic equipment, etc. and is not allowed to be used as a grid tied inverter (to sell power back to the utility company and lower your elecrtric bill) To do this you need a special type of inverter, a grid tie inverter, which is not designed to run any load by itself, but instead is designed to track the AC mains. The power company sets the voltage and the current and the grid tied inverter is slaved to the AC Mains, feeding clean, TSW power back into the grid for others to use. This means you need 2 inverters if you want to run any ac appliances and sell power back to the utility company to lower your bill.
Compare the cost/KWH in your area vs what it will cost you to generate power yourself (considering depreciation, repairs, the time value of money, etc.). If you are determined to use a grid tie system, check into the solar tax incentives that the federal government and many state governments offer and see if you qualify. If the government is paying for 80% of the initial cost of the system, (like in my state) it may indeed be a cost effective to add solar - if you qualify and can jump through all the hoops they require to get your tax credits - a daunting task.
Chip
Hozer,
Have you replaced all your RV's lighting? If not, aren't a lot of those 12V?
Terry