In comparing various fifth wheels, what weights are important for us to know besides dry weight, pin weight, hitch weight, gross weight and cc? Our plans are to buy our truck (dually) AFTER we buy our fifth wheel. However, we really DON'T want to purchase a semi to pull it, so I am guessing there must be some weight that we acknowledge is our "cut off".
Thanks!
BiggarView said
02:06 PM Sep 4, 2014
Our tentative cut-off gross trailer weight is approx 17K-18K for a newer(or current) one ton dually diesel with the 3.73 gears and auto trans. I'm guided on that number by what I consider good counsel from some knowledgeable types on here. It can tow more but I'm not comfortable towing more with that because I want to be able to stop that trailer more than I can pull it. The concept of "pick your trailer then find the truck that can tow it safely" is good. but if you have decided that an HDT is out of the question then your trailer choices will be somewhat more limited. So far the trailers we have looked at fall into/under this weight range. If we decide to go larger, then the vehicle to tow it will need to have more capability. Some will tell you, that you can pull more with that set of specs, to each his own... That is what we are working on as a general weight range for our comfort zone. More knowledge will help refine those targets.
FWIW, Brian
-- Edited by biggaRView on Thursday 4th of September 2014 07:27:48 PM
Lets get moving said
02:35 PM Sep 4, 2014
It's quite an adventure, isn't it? We are also in the planning and research phase and We also did not want to have an HDT for towing and that's ok because we doubt we can afford the fifth wheel that would require one.
I have been looking at fifth wheels obsessively and I have been noticing that the manufacturers dry weights and CCC as posted on manufacturers websites can be deceptive as it doesn't include any options that an actual unit is likely to have. I learned that by seeing actual units we like listed for sale with pictures of the sticker stating actual weight before leaving the factory and it is in many cases putting the trailer in a CCC category that we will have to rule out even though the manufacturers specs show it has an acceptable CCC.
We did enough research before we actually bought the truck last week to know what would work for our needs.
All this to say, we have determined that each individual situation has to be looked at and figured on its own but we have seen more rigs out there that we CAN tow than can't!
The Bear II said
02:37 PM Sep 4, 2014
Don't forget fishing weights...you'lll need those once you have the 5th wheel and truck. You'll be able to relax and fish.
kb0zke said
03:13 PM Sep 4, 2014
Jane and Frank, at this point focus on the Gross Weight of the coach. Pretty much everything else revolves around that. Pin weight is a percentage of GW, about 20% if I remember correctly. That is the weight of the coach that the truck actually carries.
Gross Combined Weight is the combined weight of the truck, people in the truck, fuel, wheel chocks, tools, pets, anything else that is in the truck plus the weight of the trailer. Use the gross weight of the trailer for this calculation. For example, if the truck has a gross combined weight rating of 24,000 pounds and with fuel, people, etc. weighs 9,000 pounds, then it can haul 15,000 pounds. That is the gross weight rating of the trailer.
You can see how this will work out. If you want to stick with an F350 dually, for example, as the largest truck you will consider, then go to the Ford dealer and get the brochure. If you are going to look at a used truck you can go find a few and get the weight ratings and use them as a guide. Generally, the newer the truck the greater the GCWR.
You will need to also pay attention to the axle weight rating. That is the maximum that can be on that axle. The truck already has some weight on the axle, just sitting there, and when you get into the truck some of your weight goes on each axle. Best advice is to actually weigh the truck with everyone and everything in it. Get the total weight and weights on each axle. Subtract the actual rear axle weight from the rear axle weight rating and that will tell you the maximum pin weight you can handle.
As far as a safety margin, that's up to you. Some people are willing to run right at the limits (or even a bit over), while others want some margin for safety. I've heard of having a 10% safety margin, which means that a GCWR of 24,000 pounds is treated as 21,600 or so.
Don't let a sales person tell you that a truck can tow anything you want - unless you are looking at a semi. Also don't let the sales person quote only the empty weight - use the gross weight. Nothing bad will happen if the truck you pick can handle a heavier trailer than what you pick, but if the truck is too small you are asking for trouble.
jcordar2 said
06:39 PM Sep 4, 2014
Very helpful! Thank you!!
FastEagle said
09:25 PM Sep 4, 2014
The trailer weights that are most important are its GVWR and GAWR. A lot of trailer manufacturers will print all of the other weights on the spec sheets and in the individual trailer brochures. The dry/curb weight is of little use to an owner as none will leave the factory at that weight.
It’s important to remember to check your trailer’s certification label. The trailer’s specs may list the axles as being 7000# but most trailers with those axles will have them derated by the trailer builder to something less than 7000#. They do that to build the trailer to a target GVWR. It also allows them to use tires with less load capacity than 7000# axles would require.
Of most importance for the new trailer owner wanting to get the right truck is the trailer’s hitch weight. A rule of thumb is somewhere between 15-22% of the weight of a loaded fiver will be riding in your truck bed. We keep our hitch weight very close to 18%. We have found, after many miles of RVing with our rig that that’s our best balance. Our washer combo is on the main floor level just forward of the axles and we do not have a second A/C in the forward bedroom. We upgraded to a single 15K A/C. We weighed our rig many times to learn just where to store things for a good axle balance.
We go to a lot of RV shows and I take all sorts of pictures. In the following link is a picture of a trailer with a GVWR of 15600#. It also has the cargo information. When shopping for fivers you can take pictures like that and work some “what if” figures.
Once you get a rig and load it up for a road trip you should take it to some scales and get it weighed. Here is a reference to use. Read it carefully, it has some very good information about tire pressures.
I now cringe when I see big rigs being pulled by undersized trucks.
-- Edited by cheryls-other-half on Thursday 4th of September 2014 10:26:32 PM
-- Edited by cheryls-other-half on Thursday 4th of September 2014 10:27:22 PM
jcordar2 said
05:52 AM Sep 5, 2014
My head is spinning and I'm math challenged! I understand the basics though and am ready for the Hershey show and taking my camera! Thanks for all the information and advice!
kb0zke said
08:23 PM Sep 5, 2014
I'm sure there will be more than a few members of this forum at Hershey. Perhaps some of them will arrange to meet you there and help interpret what you find. We can't go (haven't sold the place yet) but it is on our list of things to do someday.
Bobc said
08:35 PM Sep 5, 2014
We will be there Thursday afternoon thru Saturday. Never been before, looking forward to seeing all the new stuff.
The Junkman said
09:07 PM Sep 5, 2014
Buy a RAM dually with 4.10's and it will pull up to 24k.. no issue..
Just ran 10 hours with a drv Lexington .. about 20k.. Didn't even know it was there.. Then went site seeing in a small town with the truck
ran 65-70 mph .. SAFELY..
Awesome truck..
No need for a MDT or HDT these days.. wake up and smell the roses..Folks..
Some will tell you to buy a monster truck. Don't listen to the hype.. Ask the rv dealer what is showing up and pulling away with the big heavy rv's... RAM.
-- Edited by The Junkman on Friday 5th of September 2014 09:08:58 PM
Glenn West said
03:54 AM Sep 6, 2014
Some of us don't like duallys for daily drives. The HDT with a Smart loaded on it towing our home is much preferred. The HDT gets better fuel mileage and is more comfortable. hey and if your camper brakes fail no problem. The hdt will stop it fine. Just try that with a LDT. I am impressed with the raw power of these new trucks but not much fun towing that weight. Glad to hear you have left "murphy's law" behind.
The Junkman said
06:02 AM Sep 6, 2014
Glenn West wrote:
Some of us don't like duallys for daily drives. The HDT with a Smart loaded on it towing our home is much preferred. The HDT gets better fuel mileage and is more comfortable. hey and if your camper brakes fail no problem. The hdt will stop it fine. Just try that with a LDT. I am impressed with the raw power of these new trucks but not much fun towing that weight. Glad to hear you have left "murphy's law" behind.
So you'd rather drive smart cars around town? Really? lol .. That's just excuses.. Noone WANTS to drive a smart car.. they are forced to.
I could care less for milege.. I don't even look at the cost of diesel when I fill up. A penny here.. a mile here.. isn't making much difference in my budget.
I ran the ram with no brakes on the trailer for the first few miles.. needed to set the controller.. Tranny and exhaust brake stopped it just fine..
you really only need the brakes when you get a stop ign or red light.. other wise, I didn't use them at all.
I don't care what people do.. or what they use , really. Just stating the facts..
There IS no need for a mdt or hdt.. That's a fact. However, there is always free will and choice. If you want to run a tractor.. have at it.
So far, Even with the murphy law stuff, I'm pretty happy with my "choice" .
Steve
Glenn West said
04:33 PM Sep 6, 2014
Yes I actually hate a dually. And why do you have to criticize someone when they state a dually isn't for everyone. And HDT is a comfortable ride and much safer. Not everyone wants one but some do and I am one. yes an HDT is a superior towing machine.
GENECOP said
05:59 PM Sep 6, 2014
The Junkman wrote:
Glenn West wrote:
Some of us don't like duallys for daily drives. The HDT with a Smart loaded on it towing our home is much preferred. The HDT gets better fuel mileage and is more comfortable. hey and if your camper brakes fail no problem. The hdt will stop it fine. Just try that with a LDT. I am impressed with the raw power of these new trucks but not much fun towing that weight. Glad to hear you have left "murphy's law" behind.
So you'd rather drive smart cars around town? Really? lol .. That's just excuses.. Noone WANTS to drive a smart car.. they are forced to.
I could care less for milege.. I don't even look at the cost of diesel when I fill up. A penny here.. a mile here.. isn't making much difference in my budget.
I ran the ram with no brakes on the trailer for the first few miles.. needed to set the controller.. Tranny and exhaust brake stopped it just fine..
you really only need the brakes when you get a stop ign or red light.. other wise, I didn't use them at all.
I don't care what people do.. or what they use , really. Just stating the facts..
There IS no need for a mdt or hdt.. That's a fact. However, there is always free will and choice. If you want to run a tractor.. have at it.
So far, Even with the murphy law stuff, I'm pretty happy with my "choice" .
Steve
We have and absolutely LOVE our Smart Car, we are fortunate enough to be able to have whatever setup we would like and our Dream setup was a Truck Conversion Class 8 carrying a Smart Car in the garage...My wife and I are both above average in HT, Smarty is roomy, safe, and a blast to drive....If you check out some of the Smart Car Forums you will find a very enthusiastic group of Happy Smart Car owners....Lastly please keep this thread on track and CORDIAL, THERE ARE VERY FEW CORRECT ways to do this thing, its fine to disagree but there is no place here for disrespecting others .....Thanks, Gene...
The Junkman said
10:02 PM Sep 6, 2014
Didn't see where I disrespecting anyone?
And glen.. Who exactly did I criticize ? You are the one throwing out mdt/hdt are so much better than a dually.. or more specific.. a Ram..
I just set the record straight.. is all.
IF you are driving state to state.. pinballing all over the county.. like a football player, doing concerts , whatever.. I rather be running a MDT/hdt too.. But most are not.. so I have trouble seeing the NEED for a MDT/ HDT .. The need is just not there...for me
On top of that .. you need a way to see the sites, right? In enters the smart car, motorcycles, or other solution you are forced to decide on.. Or have the wife drive behind you.. and Honestly.. I'm starting to look for a challenger convt to do just that.... maybe.. if.. possibly..lol
Bottom line.. you guys run what ever you want to run.. how you want to run it.. but don't criticize me on the capabilities of the RAM when the WORLD knows what it can do.. If you do, you will get the honest straight forward response no one likes to read.
Keep it real folks..
Glenn West said
05:17 AM Sep 7, 2014
You are the one that stated no one needed an hdt. There was no need for one. I simply stated a dually isn't the preferred means of towing. Some prefer the HDT and Smart. Some haul a Jeep on there also. I'm done now. Just wanted to set record straight.
The Junkman said
06:17 PM Sep 7, 2014
Glenn West wrote:
You are the one that stated no one needed an hdt. There was no need for one. I simply stated a dually isn't the preferred means of towing. Some prefer the HDT and Smart. Some haul a Jeep on there also. I'm done now. Just wanted to set record straight.
I do not see a NEED for a HDT.. That is correct ... Some preferring to use one, is different than needing to. I stated there is no need .. But if you want to own and drive one, have at it..
I dually not being the preferred method of of towing a fifth wheel? Really ? Seen 100's doing it the past few weeks.. seen like 2 or 3 mdt/hdt actually towing..Many where not even duallys.. more than 1/2 !
I don't know much.. but I know what I see.
Now I'm done.. lol.
-- Edited by The Junkman on Sunday 7th of September 2014 06:19:35 PM
Terry and Jo said
07:01 PM Sep 7, 2014
Let's keep things civil and back on topic, or I'll start deleting posts.
In reality, it is best to look at the numbers and determine what is the best vehicle for towing. With each person, that determination can vary as to what one is comfortable in when towing.
In many cases, emergency stops can help influence those determinations. Keeping one's truck within weight guidelines is important.
Terry
BiggarView said
09:03 AM Sep 8, 2014
The Junkman wrote:
.
....There IS no need for a mdt or hdt.. That's a fact......
Sorry, I have to partially disagree. It sounds like somebody has rubbed you the wrong way. Nobody has stated categorically that you need to use a MDT or HDT to tow a 5er. It has been suggested that they are strongly recommended for heavier rigs which sounds like the voice of experience but it is, nonetheless, an opinion. The only fact about 5ers pertinent here is that you need a tow vehicle to move it. What you use to move it with is a CHOICE. You choose a 2013 Ram 3500HD. You say you are happy with it. Great! Some will choose something something lighter and some will choose something heavier. Each will choose based on trailer size, weight, available resources, personal preference and sometimes based on wise counsel received from those with more experience and knowledge.
Your statement is nothing more than your opinion and that IS a fact. I hope you have a smooth experience with your choice. For the record, I think the Dodge Ram is an excellent truck and we would consider one for our application but that is years away. Your trailer is also very nice. I also think you are testing the limits of what your truck is capable of, and if you are comfortable, it is not my place, nor am I qualified, to tell you that you are wrong... it is simply my gut feeling.
In the fullness of time, the RV community at large will find out which "choice" is the smartest for a given trailer.
JMHO, Brian
The Junkman said
09:41 AM Sep 8, 2014
biggaRView wrote:
The Junkman wrote:
.
....There IS no need for a mdt or hdt.. That's a fact......
Sorry, I have to partially disagree. It sounds like somebody has rubbed you the wrong way. Nobody has stated categorically that you need to use a MDT or HDT to tow a 5er. It has been suggested that they are strongly recommended for heavier rigs which sounds like the voice of experience but it is, nonetheless, an opinion. The only fact about 5ers pertinent here is that you need a tow vehicle to move it. What you use to move it with is a CHOICE. You choose a 2013 Ram 3500HD. You say you are happy with it. Great! Some will choose something something lighter and some will choose something heavier. Each will choose based on trailer size, weight, available resources, personal preference and sometimes based on wise counsel received from those with more experience and knowledge.
Your statement is nothing more than your opinion and that IS a fact. I hope you have a smooth experience with your choice. For the record, I think the Dodge Ram is an excellent truck and we would consider one for our application but that is years away. Your trailer is also very nice. I also think you are testing the limits of what your truck is capable of, and if you are comfortable, it is not my place, nor am I qualified, to tell you that you are wrong... it is simply my gut feeling.
In the fullness of time, the RV community at large will find out which "choice" is the smartest for a given trailer.
JMHO, Brian
I agree.. And well said.
Hard to say what is Fact or Opinion.. Since if you don't listen to the manufacture, independent testing, or expert use.. Then it the only thing left is opinion.. So I ask, what make something a Fact? .
Kinda hard to get what I am saying .. and the big picture.. when my posts keep getting deleted..
Useless to post a argumentative opinion on this forum.
I think I am about done here.
manycats said
08:40 PM Sep 8, 2014
Junkman, you have strong opinions and so do other people on this forum. I don't think a little controversy hurts, as a matter of fact, I find it entertaining and sometimes informative. We don't like people hitting each other over the head if we can agree to disagree. Keep posting your experiences as you travel, we always learn something when we share both the good and the bad things that happen on the road.
RonC said
07:43 PM Sep 4, 2016
Man ... I'd love to respond to some of this but it's too old a topic ... according to Terry. I assume Glenn's Freightliner is NOT a dually??
-- Edited by RonC on Thursday 8th of September 2016 08:23:31 PM
In comparing various fifth wheels, what weights are important for us to know besides dry weight, pin weight, hitch weight, gross weight and cc? Our plans are to buy our truck (dually) AFTER we buy our fifth wheel. However, we really DON'T want to purchase a semi to pull it, so I am guessing there must be some weight that we acknowledge is our "cut off".
Thanks!
Our tentative cut-off gross trailer weight is approx 17K-18K for a newer(or current) one ton dually diesel with the 3.73 gears and auto trans. I'm guided on that number by what I consider good counsel from some knowledgeable types on here. It can tow more but I'm not comfortable towing more with that because I want to be able to stop that trailer more than I can pull it. The concept of "pick your trailer then find the truck that can tow it safely" is good. but if you have decided that an HDT is out of the question then your trailer choices will be somewhat more limited. So far the trailers we have looked at fall into/under this weight range. If we decide to go larger, then the vehicle to tow it will need to have more capability. Some will tell you, that you can pull more with that set of specs, to each his own... That is what we are working on as a general weight range for our comfort zone. More knowledge will help refine those targets.
FWIW, Brian
-- Edited by biggaRView on Thursday 4th of September 2014 07:27:48 PM
I have been looking at fifth wheels obsessively and I have been noticing that the manufacturers dry weights and CCC as posted on manufacturers websites can be deceptive as it doesn't include any options that an actual unit is likely to have. I learned that by seeing actual units we like listed for sale with pictures of the sticker stating actual weight before leaving the factory and it is in many cases putting the trailer in a CCC category that we will have to rule out even though the manufacturers specs show it has an acceptable CCC.
We did enough research before we actually bought the truck last week to know what would work for our needs.
All this to say, we have determined that each individual situation has to be looked at and figured on its own but we have seen more rigs out there that we CAN tow than can't!
Gross Combined Weight is the combined weight of the truck, people in the truck, fuel, wheel chocks, tools, pets, anything else that is in the truck plus the weight of the trailer. Use the gross weight of the trailer for this calculation. For example, if the truck has a gross combined weight rating of 24,000 pounds and with fuel, people, etc. weighs 9,000 pounds, then it can haul 15,000 pounds. That is the gross weight rating of the trailer.
You can see how this will work out. If you want to stick with an F350 dually, for example, as the largest truck you will consider, then go to the Ford dealer and get the brochure. If you are going to look at a used truck you can go find a few and get the weight ratings and use them as a guide. Generally, the newer the truck the greater the GCWR.
You will need to also pay attention to the axle weight rating. That is the maximum that can be on that axle. The truck already has some weight on the axle, just sitting there, and when you get into the truck some of your weight goes on each axle. Best advice is to actually weigh the truck with everyone and everything in it. Get the total weight and weights on each axle. Subtract the actual rear axle weight from the rear axle weight rating and that will tell you the maximum pin weight you can handle.
As far as a safety margin, that's up to you. Some people are willing to run right at the limits (or even a bit over), while others want some margin for safety. I've heard of having a 10% safety margin, which means that a GCWR of 24,000 pounds is treated as 21,600 or so.
Don't let a sales person tell you that a truck can tow anything you want - unless you are looking at a semi. Also don't let the sales person quote only the empty weight - use the gross weight. Nothing bad will happen if the truck you pick can handle a heavier trailer than what you pick, but if the truck is too small you are asking for trouble.
Very helpful! Thank you!!
The trailer weights that are most important are its GVWR and GAWR. A lot of trailer manufacturers will print all of the other weights on the spec sheets and in the individual trailer brochures. The dry/curb weight is of little use to an owner as none will leave the factory at that weight.
It’s important to remember to check your trailer’s certification label. The trailer’s specs may list the axles as being 7000# but most trailers with those axles will have them derated by the trailer builder to something less than 7000#. They do that to build the trailer to a target GVWR. It also allows them to use tires with less load capacity than 7000# axles would require.
Of most importance for the new trailer owner wanting to get the right truck is the trailer’s hitch weight. A rule of thumb is somewhere between 15-22% of the weight of a loaded fiver will be riding in your truck bed. We keep our hitch weight very close to 18%. We have found, after many miles of RVing with our rig that that’s our best balance. Our washer combo is on the main floor level just forward of the axles and we do not have a second A/C in the forward bedroom. We upgraded to a single 15K A/C. We weighed our rig many times to learn just where to store things for a good axle balance.
We go to a lot of RV shows and I take all sorts of pictures. In the following link is a picture of a trailer with a GVWR of 15600#. It also has the cargo information. When shopping for fivers you can take pictures like that and work some “what if” figures.
www.irv2.com/photopost/showfull.php
Once you get a rig and load it up for a road trip you should take it to some scales and get it weighed. Here is a reference to use. Read it carefully, it has some very good information about tire pressures.
www.trucktires.com/bridgestone/us_eng/press/zip/WeighForm.pdf.
Here is how our rig weighs out.
Trailer GVWR 14100#.
GAWR (2) 6000#
Truck GVWR 11500#
Truck GCWR 23000#
Loaded trailer 13900#
Hitch weight 2500#.
11400# on the axles
Truck loaded 8800# - with hitch weight 11300# - total GCWR 22700#
Those figures were what it weighed just before our last cross country trip.
FastEagle
-- Edited by FastEagle on Thursday 4th of September 2014 09:25:53 PM
We kind of got lucky.
We got a package deal on a pre-owned DRV, as well as it's tow buddy, a Ford F550 (dually) with Custom body.
It's awesome, drives like a dream, (considering I drove a E100 van and then mini-vans for 30 years).
The only thing I don't like about it is its 105 gallon (added) fuel tanks that eat my wallet when I fill with Diesel.
Other then than, I get tons of looks when driving them together, or even just the F550 by itself.
And I am a Field Engineer, and so every one of the compartments on the side of the truck has my job tools!
But I totally agree, very happy that my Bull (F550) can pull the CoW (Castle on Wheels-aka the DRV) with power to spare.
(another link)
I now cringe when I see big rigs being pulled by undersized trucks.
-- Edited by cheryls-other-half on Thursday 4th of September 2014 10:26:32 PM
-- Edited by cheryls-other-half on Thursday 4th of September 2014 10:27:22 PM
My head is spinning and I'm math challenged!
I understand the basics though and am ready for the Hershey show and taking my camera! Thanks for all the information and advice!
Buy a RAM dually with 4.10's and it will pull up to 24k.. no issue..
Just ran 10 hours with a drv Lexington .. about 20k.. Didn't even know it was there.. Then went site seeing in a small town with the truck
ran 65-70 mph .. SAFELY..
Awesome truck..
No need for a MDT or HDT these days.. wake up and smell the roses..Folks..
Some will tell you to buy a monster truck. Don't listen to the hype.. Ask the rv dealer what is showing up and pulling away with the big heavy rv's... RAM.
-- Edited by The Junkman on Friday 5th of September 2014 09:08:58 PM
So you'd rather drive smart cars around town? Really? lol .. That's just excuses.. Noone WANTS to drive a smart car.. they are forced to.
I could care less for milege.. I don't even look at the cost of diesel when I fill up. A penny here.. a mile here.. isn't making much difference in my budget.
I ran the ram with no brakes on the trailer for the first few miles.. needed to set the controller.. Tranny and exhaust brake stopped it just fine..
you really only need the brakes when you get a stop ign or red light.. other wise, I didn't use them at all.
I don't care what people do.. or what they use , really. Just stating the facts..
There IS no need for a mdt or hdt.. That's a fact. However, there is always free will and choice. If you want to run a tractor.. have at it.
So far, Even with the murphy law stuff, I'm pretty happy with my "choice" .
Steve
We have and absolutely LOVE our Smart Car, we are fortunate enough to be able to have whatever setup we would like and our Dream setup was a Truck Conversion Class 8 carrying a Smart Car in the garage...My wife and I are both above average in HT, Smarty is roomy, safe, and a blast to drive....If you check out some of the Smart Car Forums you will find a very enthusiastic group of Happy Smart Car owners....Lastly please keep this thread on track and CORDIAL, THERE ARE VERY FEW CORRECT ways to do this thing, its fine to disagree but there is no place here for disrespecting others .....Thanks, Gene...
And glen.. Who exactly did I criticize ? You are the one throwing out mdt/hdt are so much better than a dually.. or more specific.. a Ram..
I just set the record straight.. is all.
IF you are driving state to state.. pinballing all over the county.. like a football player, doing concerts , whatever.. I rather be running a MDT/hdt too.. But most are not.. so I have trouble seeing the NEED for a MDT/ HDT .. The need is just not there...for me
On top of that .. you need a way to see the sites, right? In enters the smart car, motorcycles, or other solution you are forced to decide on.. Or have the wife drive behind you.. and Honestly.. I'm starting to look for a challenger convt to do just that.... maybe.. if.. possibly..lol
Bottom line.. you guys run what ever you want to run.. how you want to run it.. but don't criticize me on the capabilities of the RAM when the WORLD knows what it can do.. If you do, you will get the honest straight forward response no one likes to read.
Keep it real folks..
I do not see a NEED for a HDT.. That is correct ... Some preferring to use one, is different than needing to. I stated there is no need .. But if you want to own and drive one, have at it..
I dually not being the preferred method of of towing a fifth wheel? Really ? Seen 100's doing it the past few weeks.. seen like 2 or 3 mdt/hdt actually towing..Many where not even duallys.. more than 1/2 !
I don't know much.. but I know what I see.
Now I'm done.. lol.
-- Edited by The Junkman on Sunday 7th of September 2014 06:19:35 PM
Let's keep things civil and back on topic, or I'll start deleting posts.
In reality, it is best to look at the numbers and determine what is the best vehicle for towing. With each person, that determination can vary as to what one is comfortable in when towing.
In many cases, emergency stops can help influence those determinations. Keeping one's truck within weight guidelines is important.
Terry
Sorry, I have to partially disagree. It sounds like somebody has rubbed you the wrong way. Nobody has stated categorically that you need to use a MDT or HDT to tow a 5er. It has been suggested that they are strongly recommended for heavier rigs which sounds like the voice of experience but it is, nonetheless, an opinion. The only fact about 5ers pertinent here is that you need a tow vehicle to move it. What you use to move it with is a CHOICE. You choose a 2013 Ram 3500HD. You say you are happy with it. Great! Some will choose something something lighter and some will choose something heavier. Each will choose based on trailer size, weight, available resources, personal preference and sometimes based on wise counsel received from those with more experience and knowledge.
Your statement is nothing more than your opinion and that IS a fact. I hope you have a smooth experience with your choice. For the record, I think the Dodge Ram is an excellent truck and we would consider one for our application but that is years away. Your trailer is also very nice. I also think you are testing the limits of what your truck is capable of, and if you are comfortable, it is not my place, nor am I qualified, to tell you that you are wrong... it is simply my gut feeling.
In the fullness of time, the RV community at large will find out which "choice" is the smartest for a given trailer.
JMHO, Brian
I agree.. And well said.
Hard to say what is Fact or Opinion.. Since if you don't listen to the manufacture, independent testing, or expert use.. Then it the only thing left is opinion.. So I ask, what make something a Fact? .
Kinda hard to get what I am saying .. and the big picture.. when my posts keep getting deleted..
Useless to post a argumentative opinion on this forum.
I think I am about done here.
Man ... I'd love to respond to some of this but it's too old a topic ... according to Terry. I assume Glenn's Freightliner is NOT a dually??
-- Edited by RonC on Thursday 8th of September 2016 08:23:31 PM