Well, it has finally happened! After years of researching, planning and driving my wife crazy by talking about it, our fulltiming dream has begun. The house is sold along with most of our stuff and we take possession of our new DRV MS 38 RSSB3 on Friday. We just have to survive a few months of nasty Canadian winter while staying with the in-laws, before we hit the road.

Even though the unit is "new", are there any tech tips, changes or words of advice that will better help me to prepare the MS before we go mobile?

Thanks.

Tim

Go back and read some of the articles on Howard's main site…there are lots of how to and helpful item articles there and then come here and ask for any specific details you need. 

Mobile Suites are equipped pretty well so you won't have too much to worry about there…but there are lots of little goodies that make RV life better…the problem is that it's such an open ended topic that I'm sure most of us won't know how to answer.

That said…here are a couple items that I think are must haves if you don't already have them.

-Watts 360 adjustable pressure regulator. I keep mine attached to a Y-connector on the input side so hooking up another hose is easy.

-double water filter setup from rvwaterfilterstore.com if you don't already have them built in

-quick disconnect on the water inlet unless it's one of those screw it into the side of the coach type…ours is in a utility bay so leaving the female part of the disconnect on the connector is fine.

-enough water and sewer hose…I have 2 15 foot hoses and 3 10 sewers (they are older and only used for backup) and while my regulator/filter arrangement only has 30 feet total (10 between the regulator and filters and 20 to the rig) I've got another 50 feet worth if I need it.

-heavy rubber gloves that live in the sewer stuff bin

-pads for the jacks when parked; mine are 18 inch lengths of 2x8 but I'm going to replace them over the winter with 4x8 instead. Much cheaper than the specialized type.

-portable 2 way radios if you are traveling with 2 vehicles and for parking. I don't back unless Connie is talking to me on the radio and don't move slides without 1 inside and 1 outside to watch…safer that way.

-if you have satellite TV get the app DP AR Pro for your iPhone (or equivalent for Android). This allows you to see where the satellites you need (101, 110, and 119 for DirectTV HD) along with a picture of the sky using the camera. Makes it easy to tell yourself to back up another 3 feet before jacks down and unhitching. Once you've done that moving the rig just to get satellite connectivity is a pain.

-figure out how you're going to get Internet…we have AT&T iPhones and  WiFiRanger with the Mobile antenna on the roof for excellent wifi connectivity to campgrounds. Also have a millenicom.com air card that uses Verizon attached to the Ranger for campgrounds without wifi. Thinking about upgrading it to a 4G/LTE model over the winter as soon as there's a LTE amplifier/antenna setup for better connectivity on the roof. I (and others) can give you lots of help/recommendations on how to best do Internet on the road.

-App or iPhone named RV Checklist (again, similar for Android). This lets you create personalized hitch and unhitch checklists so that you don't head off with the batwing antenna up or the water still connected…or the chocks under the wheels which then crushes them, ask me know I know this

Again…there are many tips folks here can give you; but you'll need to narrow down the field a bit.

Tim,

Not knowing how you have equipped your Mobile Suites leaves us at a disadvantage, so here are just a few ideas.

If you've gone with the "stock" furniture, go ahead and start looking at other furniture.  Our 2010 MS 38TKSB3 came with stock and it wasn't long before both the couch and the two recliners were gone and replaced.

I agree with Neil on the Watts water pressure regulator.  Ours is the Watts 263A with stainless steel insides.  Be cautious that you don't allow the regulator to freeze up.  If you do, you'll need the replacement "innards."  I goofed and let ours freeze one night.  It still worked, but I still replaced both the gauge and the innards.  Easy job if needed to be done.

Water filters are a personal thing.  We haven't felt the need for extra filters on ours.  In our case, if the water tastes funny, we just get bottled water, but even that doesn't happen much.

A good carpenter's level about a foot and a half or two feet long.  While the new level up system is supposed to be good, I prefer to have a good level and check on the linoleum between our peninsula counter and the center pantry.  I follow up by checking whether the bathroom door on the side bathroom wants to open or close.  If either, I adjust with the Level-Up cylinders on the appropriate side.

Progressive Industries power protection device.  If yours isn't equipped with one of those, get one.  The surge protectors don't give full protection.  We had issues with our Whirlpool washing machine and I suspect it was from "unclean" power.  If we had put one of these on when we first purchased, we might not have had the issues and necessary replacement of the first one.

Torque wrench with up to 250 ft lb capacity.  The wheel lugs on our 2010 call for 125-150 ft lbs of torque.  I went to Lowes and got a Kobalt 1/2-inch drive wrench to carry.

In our case, I also got an air compressor with the capacity of going up to 150 psi.  Ours is a Craftsman similar to Howard and Linda's, but that particular model is no longer stocked by Sears.  They have a pancake now that has 6-gallon capacity and 150 psi, which is actually better than the one we have.  Ours only has about 1 1/2 gallon tank of volume.  To get the extra volume for ours, I converted a 5 gallon LPG cylinder to hold air along with the 1 1/2 gallon tank in ours.  The extra volume is great, especially when airing up the trailer's tires.  Ours calls for 125 psi, and that is why a 150 psi compressor is important.

Oh, and also get a dual foot tire pressure gauge that has enough capacity for more than 125 psi.  The dual foot is important for when airing up the tires on the duallys.  While my link takes you to a series of pictures on Google images, I use a standard one without the dial gauge.

I'm sure I'll think of more later, so if I do, I'll come back and add another comment.

Good luck, and I hope you enjoy your new coach as much as we enjoy ours.

Terry

Mitch SNIPS (again...!)...

Terry and Jo wrote:

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Tim,

In our case, I also got an air compressor with the capacity of going up to 150 psi.  Ours is a Craftsman similar to Howard and Linda's, but that particular model is no longer stocked by Sears.  They have a pancake now that has 6-gallon capacity and 150 psi, which is actually better than the one we have.  Ours only has about 1 1/2 gallon tank of volume.  To get the extra volume for ours, I converted a 5 gallon LPG cylinder to hold air along with the 1 1/2 gallon tank in ours.  The extra volume is great, especially when airing up the trailer's tires.  Ours calls for 125 psi, and that is why a 150 psi compressor is important.Terry

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Got it.  The original product was OEM'd by Sears.  Currently, got exact same model, (by searching the sears model#)

Made by Porter Cable (owned by Stanley/Black&Decker) who also make: Stanley, B&Decker, DeWalt, Porter Cable, and at least one or two other brands that currently escape me)

Porter Tools, Model CMB15 1.5 Gals, Max air pressure 150PSI.

Displacement 6.0CFM, 3.0 @40PSI, and 2.0@90PSI

pics: Front of compressor:

Back of compressor/info

Please note the following information (from my "Stupid" personal experience department)

when filling your truck tires (mine are 95lb/PSI) it's a no brainer with this compressor.

When you are doing the TRAILER tires (@ 125lb/PSI)

I discovered that in order to successfully get the TRAILER tires inflated to a good #, you MUST watch the RIGHT gauge, which is the (output/regulated) pressure (as opposed to the input or generated gauge on the left).

in order to successfully inflate them it is imperative that you make sure your right gauge's pressure is at least 140/150, and inflate, then STOP
 and disconnect from tire when it goes to around 130PSI.

Then pull the air relief valve on left side (to the left of the INPUT gauge), until it drops, and regulator will go on again, wait AGAIN till it hits 150PSI

and repeat until you have pressure.

Before I did this, it started at 120lb/PSI, and dropped to about 110lbs, before I figured that out...

Hope that helps

Oh, and here is the Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CVXGR0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Follow up on Mitch's comment.

I don't even look at the gauges on the compressor.  I have one of the dual foot tire gauges designed for truck tire capacities.  With the compressor hooked to my external "volume tank," I air the tires up as much as possible.  However, I've found that to get the last five pounds at times, the compressor has to be running.  So, if I get close to 125 and it doesn't appear to be increasing in the tire, I release air from the compressor/volume tank until the compressor starts running again.  Then I go back to airing up the tires.

Back to "tech tips," if you don't already have one, get a volt/ohm meter.  It will be beneficial when checking electrical circuits, and if one isn't sure if a bulb (non-flourescent) is burned out, the ohm meter part will let one check continuity through the bulb.  I think the newer DRV's are mostly LED's now for bulbs, but I wouldn't swear by anything.  Then again, can an LED be checked for continuity?  (We're just beginning to convert some of our old halogen bulbs to LED's.)

I also suggest some of those carpet-like step covers that allow one to step on carpet instead of the metal steps.  However, if you've ordered the 4-step option, you'd have to remove the bottom one before the steps will fold back up for travel.  If you've ordered the electric powered steps, I have no idea of how the step covers would work.  Although I've seen the new electric steps, I didn't look at that issue.

Be sure that you have one of the screw drivers with the square tip for the screws on the coach.  I happen to have a small tool set that has the multiple tips for various type screws and it has the square tip.

Terry

Unless you know for sure where you are going to park each night and the site layout, get at least a 15 foot - 50 amp extension cable.  You will need it when the power connection is just 3 feet further than the rig’s cable will reach.  (I actually carry a 15 and a 30 foot extension and have used them both, along with the 30 feet from the rig, on more than one occasion.)

And to echo Terry, please do this:

“Progressive Industries power protection device.  If yours isn't equipped with one of those, get one.” 

This device does a lot more than surge protection and it will save your rig someday. Lots of threads about this and recommendations as to why this is a necessity IMO.  The "EMS" in the MS is not a protection device as such and surge protection alone is not adequate.

Mitch ..snips...

Terry and Jo wrote:

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Follow up on Mitch's comment.

...snip...

I don't even look at the gauges on the compressor. 

..Mitch sez;  nor, do I, except for what you say below for the last few lbs into the trailer tires @125lbpsi

...snip...

With the compressor hooked to my external "volume tank," I air the tires up as much as possible. 

>>>>However, I've found that to get the last five pounds at times, the compressor has to be running.  <<<

That's why I started looking at the right (output) gauge.. because it wasn't getting enough pressure to the tires

... snip...So, if I get close to 125 and it doesn't appear to be increasing in the tire, I release air from the compressor/volume tank until the compressor starts running again.  Then I go back to airing up the tires.

Heh heh. do you realize we both just said the same thing, in different ways?!!