What is the benefits of using a hauler bed, versus a standard long box? Is it bed rail clearance issue?
Looked at 1 manufacture and it looked as if the rear is actually longer with the hauler bed?
I plan on using my truck as a driver and worker, while on the road. Was ordering a "tommy lift gate" for it, but decided to wait til I have the RV in hand, and check Clearances. As no one can give me a 100% answer that it will fit/ clear..I also already have a "auto crane" I was thinking of installing.. if the lift gate wouldn't fit.
Of course, it seems with a hauler bed.. The bed doesn't get used for anything but fifth wheel hook up? I guess I could always rent a trailer.. or truck as needed , on the road too..But would rather have my bed..too.
Thanks
Steve
MarkS said
09:11 AM Jun 8, 2014
Steve, I believe your bed is personal preference and the design is based on your needs. A hauler bed will provide additional storage but when the fiver is connected, it will take up much of the bed in either case. Buying a hauler bed would give you the option of buying a cab and chassis rather than a pickup. You might even choose to go with a medium duty truck or a heavy duty truck. Although these choices aren't for everybody. One thing to keep in mind is that hauler bed manufacturers are extraordinarily proud of their products. I priced one at $25k which I thought was reasonable until he told me that it wasn't gold plated.
The Bear II said
08:40 AM Jun 10, 2014
Hauler beds offer better clearance and easier hitching of the 5th wheel or gooseneck. The storage compartments are used for whatever will fit. Some even have generator compartments with venting and sound insulation.
For a work truck towing a 5th wheel, you'll need to be aware of clearance especially during tight turns, dips, humps or backing into tight spots. The crane and lift gate may cause a problem. I have seen removable cranes or cranes that lay down when not in use and Tommygate does make a lift gate that is flush with the height of a regular tailgate.
If you have a good stiff rear suspension, you can move the hitch towards the rear of the truck to provide clearance for the Tommygate depth. Don't move it more than a few inches to the rear or it may affect the towing characteristics.
By the way I see used hauler type beds listed on Craigslist and TruckTrader.com often. Most tow truck beds minus the tow boom are just like the RV hauler beds.
-- Edited by The Bear II on Tuesday 10th of June 2014 08:43:40 AM
BiggarView said
09:12 AM Jun 10, 2014
The Junkman wrote:
I wonder ... on the 13 Ram DRW.. when you upgrade the wheels.. it goes to the alcoa wheel package, the wheel is SMALLER. I know it is a stronger forged Aluminum wheel.. but did not understand why smaller.. I wonder if it helps on that clearance of a fifth wheel issue?
Smaller wheel does not necessarily mean smaller overall tire diameter... which is more important in this context.
BiggarView said
10:59 AM Jun 10, 2014
Instead of 25K for a gold plated deluxe unit you might want to consider something like this...
shouldn't cost nearly that much, and 2013 Ram would be different in the cutting etc., but certainly not even close to 25K. Retain the pick-up bed (with mods) and don't have to worry about 5er clearance.
FWIW
BiggarView said
11:45 AM Jun 10, 2014
I can't speak to the raising the hitch part, perhaps those with more knowledge will chime in. As to the bed, he chopped off about 4-5 inches, You can read more about it on their blog (Ken and Lee's RV Adventures: We have a new truck bed.. posted nov 8,2012).
-- Edited by biggaRView on Tuesday 10th of June 2014 12:00:11 PM
Terry and Jo said
08:19 PM Jun 10, 2014
Chances are that the reason for the recommendation of raising the DRV 2 inches is because the truck side rails and tailgate are taller than they used to be. If one's pin box or fifth wheel hitch don't allow enough for adjustment, then raising the trailer is the way many folks are going.
Terry
R12 said
06:15 AM Jun 11, 2014
A hauler body like mine below from Chariot Van cost less than 15K and I was able to sell the original pickup body. Classy Chassis haulers wanted 18K. Mine has six storage compartments, a 65 gallon aux. fuel tank and much better clearance for the fiver. They also look pretty sharp. The cab and chassis Fords are detuned and have less horsepower and torque than the pickups, at least in the 2013 models. The hitch can be removed just like in a pickup so it can still be used as such. The inside bed is just over 4 feet wide.
-- Edited by R12 on Wednesday 11th of June 2014 06:20:51 AM
Bill and Linda said
07:37 AM Jun 11, 2014
R12 wrote:
The cab and chassis Fords are detuned and have less horsepower and torque than the pickups, at least in the 2013 models.
-- Edited by R12 on Wednesday 11th of June 2014 06:20:51 AM
Point of information: Ford Cab and Chassis trucks continue to be “detuned” including the 2015’s. (Speaking about diesel here) It is a very significant reduction in HP and Torque from the pickups.300HP. The same “detune” is true for RAM’s, just not as much as Ford. 330HP for the RAM. The 3500HD GM/Chevy’s Cab and Chassis trucks, beginning with MY 2013, if I recall correctly the year, are no longer detuned and have the same HP and Torque as the pickup versions.(GM still detunes the truck chassis for 19 passenger van / bus service.)
As most know, the Cab and Chassis trucks are delivered as legally “incomplete trucks” (look at the sticker on the door for those interested) destined for upfit to various uses, such as dump and flat bed, and are considered to be commercial and hence, in the case of Ford and RAM, are detuned.
Just another factor to consider when selecting a truck. Not good - or bad - just is.
Bill
Bill and Linda said
07:49 AM Jun 11, 2014
Terry and Jo wrote:
Chances are that the reason for the recommendation of raising the DRV 2 inches is because the truck side rails and tailgate are taller than they used to be.
Terry
Terry:
Good point - very true.In addition to giving adequate bed rail clearance the trailer should be raised to allow it to run level with the truck.A “high in the front” trailer will put extra weight on the rear axle of the trailer – possibly over loading it as only one bad thing.
Many of the larger trailers, such as the larger DRV's as only one example, are getting close to the 8K axle ratings often offered when loaded for full timing. (9K’s are offered as well by some on “special order” but personally I’d go with three axles if required if you’re going to travel much.)We need to try and keep loads distributed as much as possible and lifting the trailer is the only way to make it run level without a hauler bed on the truck.
As a point, lifting a rig is no big deal. MOR/ryde can do this to any suspension and will do this if you are putting on a new suspension without additional trouble.Naturally a 2”-3” lift raises the rig.But in most cases this isn’t a real world problem to go up 2”– 3” Much better, IMO, than ruining a truck bed and trailer belly.
Bill
Bill and Linda said
09:33 AM Jun 11, 2014
The Junkman wrote:
Bill and Linda wrote:
Terry and Jo wrote:
Chances are that the reason for the recommendation of raising the DRV 2 inches is because the truck side rails and tailgate are taller than they used to be.
Terry
Terry:
Good point - very true. In addition to giving adequate bed rail clearance the trailer should be raised to allow it to run level with the truck. A “high in the front” trailer will put extra weight on the rear axle of the trailer – possibly over loading it as only one bad thing.
Many of the larger trailers, such as the larger DRV's as only one example, are getting close to the 8K axle ratings often offered when loaded for full timing. (9K’s are offered as well by some on “special order” but personally I’d go with three axles if required if you’re going to travel much.) We need to try and keep loads distributed as much as possible and lifting the trailer is the only way to make it run level without a hauler bed on the truck.
As a point, lifting a rig is no big deal. MOR/ryde can do this to any suspension and will do this if you are putting on a new suspension without additional trouble. Naturally a 2”-3” lift raises the rig. But in most cases this isn’t a real world problem to go up 2”– 3” Much better, IMO, than ruining a truck bed and trailer belly.
Bill
So with the lifted trailer , you think I will be ok, and not hit, with the 2013 Ram?
Would like to make my standard bed work without fear of hitting. As some of the remote locations , here in the west, will have me traveling down some dirt roads..
Without a measurement of the specific trailer and truck in question I have no way to know either way.However, and I am not being vicious, any lift is usually better than none with the new trucks, IMO.They all have 57-58” “ish” bed rails.That is from the ground up. Some truck manufactures even give you a warning in their literature as to this issue.You can measure the trailer with it level and do the math.IMO, you want at least 6” and IMO really need 7” to be safe.As I said, that’s my opinion from experience.Others seem to be comfortable with lesser clearance and they will be fine - “until.”A friend with a F-450 and an Elite Suite proved the “until” opinion to be true.
It has been my experience that almost all trailers “stock” when coupled to the “new” pickups, including the RAM 3500HD, are too close for my comfort.Again, IMO, off-road / dirt roads are no more of a problem then an off ramp with a bad dip at the bottom and a rise to the next road in the turn.Seen that example as well.
Neil and Connie said
03:49 PM Jun 30, 2014
biggaRView wrote:
I can't speak to the raising the hitch part, perhaps those with more knowledge will chime in. As to the bed, he chopped off about 4-5 inches, You can read more about it on their blog (Ken and Lee's RV Adventures: We have a new truck bed.. posted nov 8,2012).
-- Edited by biggaRView on Tuesday 10th of June 2014 12:00:11 PM
Ken told me his cutdown was 10K…so a hauler at 15K isn't all that much more. Of course…one can easily spend the 25K for the hauler if you get all the bells and whistles…and the hauler does cut down on your weight and towing capacities since it's always heavier than the normal pickup bed.
We considered the hauler and ended up with the standard F450 bed saying we would add the hauler later if we wanted…two years on we're still with the standard bed; but if we had a 550 or 5500 instead of the 450 I would probably get the hauler as it does look better.
Terry and Jo said
09:11 PM Jul 1, 2014
The Junkman wrote:
Neil and Connie wrote:
biggaRView wrote:
I can't speak to the raising the hitch part, perhaps those with more knowledge will chime in. As to the bed, he chopped off about 4-5 inches, You can read more about it on their blog (Ken and Lee's RV Adventures: We have a new truck bed.. posted nov 8,2012).
Ken told me his cutdown was 10K…so a hauler at 15K isn't all that much more. Of course…one can easily spend the 25K for the hauler if you get all the bells and whistles…and the hauler does cut down on your weight and towing capacities since it's always heavier than the normal pickup bed.
We considered the hauler and ended up with the standard F450 bed saying we would add the hauler later if we wanted…two years on we're still with the standard bed; but if we had a 550 or 5500 instead of the 450 I would probably get the hauler as it does look better.
Looks better? Is that a joke? lol
I doubt that it is, because not everyone has the same tastes. I know a lot of folks that like the hauler bed's looks over a standard pickup bed. Others prefer the pickup bed over the hauler bed. Just like some like red more than blue.
Terry
Glenn West said
08:09 PM Jul 9, 2014
If I was buying a new truck it would be a hauler bed. It is not easy to climb in that bed with that 5ther hooked up. I am very healthy, I climb steel, scaffolds, etc. for a living and I get weary of climbing in that bed. Seen a lot of bent sides too.
Neil and Connie said
01:06 PM Jul 11, 2014
The Junkman wrote:
Looks better? Is that a joke? lol
Each to their own I guess. My 450 has a ladder, one of those Walmart TuffBoxes for the generator, some 2x8 lumber pieces that are jack pads and a couple 5 gallon cans of emergency diesel in it. To me an empty hauler bed except of the hitch and having all the junk in storage bins looks better.
I had a tri-fold cover (the solid one) that I really liked when not towing…but had to get rid of it as when you folded it forward to clear the hitch for towing it was too high and would hit the bottom of the BR when turning.
Neil and Connie said
10:37 AM Jul 13, 2014
The Junkman wrote:
I was wondering in that would clear.. I may have to get a soft one .. to roll up.I need something, I think.
The ReTrax like Howard has (at least I think it's a ReTrax) will roll up and not cause many issues…it only sticks up from the bed rails something less than about an inch…and has a box thing it rolls up into at the front top of the bed below the rails…about 12 inches square I guess. That would kill the space my Walmart bin lives in though…
Glenn West said
01:24 PM Jul 13, 2014
Curious, how tall is that DRV with that lift. They are normally rather tall. Know my Teton is 13' 3" with the XPS RIB tires.
Glenn West said
04:30 PM Jul 13, 2014
I would be Leary of raising mine any higher, reason I was asking. My previous DRV was rather high also. Was over 13'. Seen lots of overpasses/bridges 14' and with additional paying etc!!!
-- Edited by Glenn West on Sunday 13th of July 2014 04:32:49 PM
Glenn West said
05:39 PM Jul 13, 2014
I personally had to back my DRV up a exit ramp because it was too low. It was stock height. This was in Denver CO area.
Terry and Jo said
09:59 PM Jul 14, 2014
Steve,
I know of at least two fifth wheels that encountered low overpasses. 13'6" is only the "legal" maximum without having to be ran as an oversized load. Both of the fifth wheels that I know of, one a DRV that I actually had eyes-on, had the roofs peeled back. One of those was directed to a route via OnStar and a policeman that had an 11-foot clearance.
One time here in Oklahoma, they built a new four-lane through part of Oklahoma City. When it was all done, they had to go back in and tear out all of the new roadway at one intersection, dig down some and then build the highway again. It seems the state's "engineers" miscalculated on the bridge going over that section and it was lower than specified, thus too low for some loads.
Hello,
What is the benefits of using a hauler bed, versus a standard long box? Is it bed rail clearance issue?
Looked at 1 manufacture and it looked as if the rear is actually longer with the hauler bed?
I plan on using my truck as a driver and worker, while on the road. Was ordering a "tommy lift gate" for it, but decided to wait til I have the RV in hand, and check Clearances. As no one can give me a 100% answer that it will fit/ clear..I also already have a "auto crane" I was thinking of installing.. if the lift gate wouldn't fit.
Of course, it seems with a hauler bed.. The bed doesn't get used for anything but fifth wheel hook up? I guess I could always rent a trailer.. or truck as needed , on the road too..But would rather have my bed..too.
Thanks
Steve
Hauler beds offer better clearance and easier hitching of the 5th wheel or gooseneck. The storage compartments are used for whatever will fit. Some even have generator compartments with venting and sound insulation.
For a work truck towing a 5th wheel, you'll need to be aware of clearance especially during tight turns, dips, humps or backing into tight spots. The crane and lift gate may cause a problem. I have seen removable cranes or cranes that lay down when not in use and Tommygate does make a lift gate that is flush with the height of a regular tailgate.
If you have a good stiff rear suspension, you can move the hitch towards the rear of the truck to provide clearance for the Tommygate depth. Don't move it more than a few inches to the rear or it may affect the towing characteristics.
By the way I see used hauler type beds listed on Craigslist and TruckTrader.com often. Most tow truck beds minus the tow boom are just like the RV hauler beds.
-- Edited by The Bear II on Tuesday 10th of June 2014 08:43:40 AM
Smaller wheel does not necessarily mean smaller overall tire diameter... which is more important in this context.
Instead of 25K for a gold plated deluxe unit you might want to consider something like this...
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x8WHF7pcFoE/UJxVy8rCm7I/AAAAAAAAKx0/x2psDlHjBWo/s1600/IMG_2846%2B800%2528001%2529%2Bemail-759508.JPG
shouldn't cost nearly that much, and 2013 Ram would be different in the cutting etc., but certainly not even close to 25K. Retain the pick-up bed (with mods) and don't have to worry about 5er clearance.
FWIW
I can't speak to the raising the hitch part, perhaps those with more knowledge will chime in. As to the bed, he chopped off about 4-5 inches, You can read more about it on their blog (Ken and Lee's RV Adventures: We have a new truck bed.. posted nov 8,2012).
-- Edited by biggaRView on Tuesday 10th of June 2014 12:00:11 PM
Chances are that the reason for the recommendation of raising the DRV 2 inches is because the truck side rails and tailgate are taller than they used to be. If one's pin box or fifth wheel hitch don't allow enough for adjustment, then raising the trailer is the way many folks are going.
Terry
A hauler body like mine below from Chariot Van cost less than 15K and I was able to sell the original pickup body. Classy Chassis haulers wanted 18K. Mine has six storage compartments, a 65 gallon aux. fuel tank and much better clearance for the fiver. They also look pretty sharp. The cab and chassis Fords are detuned and have less horsepower and torque than the pickups, at least in the 2013 models. The hitch can be removed just like in a pickup so it can still be used as such. The inside bed is just over 4 feet wide.
-- Edited by R12 on Wednesday 11th of June 2014 06:20:51 AM
Point of information: Ford Cab and Chassis trucks continue to be “detuned” including the 2015’s. (Speaking about diesel here) It is a very significant reduction in HP and Torque from the pickups. 300HP. The same “detune” is true for RAM’s, just not as much as Ford. 330HP for the RAM. The 3500HD GM/Chevy’s Cab and Chassis trucks, beginning with MY 2013, if I recall correctly the year, are no longer detuned and have the same HP and Torque as the pickup versions. (GM still detunes the truck chassis for 19 passenger van / bus service.)
As most know, the Cab and Chassis trucks are delivered as legally “incomplete trucks” (look at the sticker on the door for those interested) destined for upfit to various uses, such as dump and flat bed, and are considered to be commercial and hence, in the case of Ford and RAM, are detuned.
Just another factor to consider when selecting a truck. Not good - or bad - just is.
Bill
Terry:
Good point - very true. In addition to giving adequate bed rail clearance the trailer should be raised to allow it to run level with the truck. A “high in the front” trailer will put extra weight on the rear axle of the trailer – possibly over loading it as only one bad thing.
Many of the larger trailers, such as the larger DRV's as only one example, are getting close to the 8K axle ratings often offered when loaded for full timing. (9K’s are offered as well by some on “special order” but personally I’d go with three axles if required if you’re going to travel much.) We need to try and keep loads distributed as much as possible and lifting the trailer is the only way to make it run level without a hauler bed on the truck.
As a point, lifting a rig is no big deal. MOR/ryde can do this to any suspension and will do this if you are putting on a new suspension without additional trouble. Naturally a 2”-3” lift raises the rig. But in most cases this isn’t a real world problem to go up 2”– 3” Much better, IMO, than ruining a truck bed and trailer belly.
Bill
Without a measurement of the specific trailer and truck in question I have no way to know either way. However, and I am not being vicious, any lift is usually better than none with the new trucks, IMO. They all have 57-58” “ish” bed rails. That is from the ground up. Some truck manufactures even give you a warning in their literature as to this issue. You can measure the trailer with it level and do the math. IMO, you want at least 6” and IMO really need 7” to be safe. As I said, that’s my opinion from experience. Others seem to be comfortable with lesser clearance and they will be fine - “until.” A friend with a F-450 and an Elite Suite proved the “until” opinion to be true.
It has been my experience that almost all trailers “stock” when coupled to the “new” pickups, including the RAM 3500HD, are too close for my comfort. Again, IMO, off-road / dirt roads are no more of a problem then an off ramp with a bad dip at the bottom and a rise to the next road in the turn. Seen that example as well.
Ken told me his cutdown was 10K…so a hauler at 15K isn't all that much more. Of course…one can easily spend the 25K for the hauler if you get all the bells and whistles…and the hauler does cut down on your weight and towing capacities since it's always heavier than the normal pickup bed.
We considered the hauler and ended up with the standard F450 bed saying we would add the hauler later if we wanted…two years on we're still with the standard bed; but if we had a 550 or 5500 instead of the 450 I would probably get the hauler as it does look better.
I doubt that it is, because not everyone has the same tastes. I know a lot of folks that like the hauler bed's looks over a standard pickup bed. Others prefer the pickup bed over the hauler bed. Just like some like red more than blue.
Terry
Each to their own I guess. My 450 has a ladder, one of those Walmart TuffBoxes for the generator, some 2x8 lumber pieces that are jack pads and a couple 5 gallon cans of emergency diesel in it. To me an empty hauler bed except of the hitch and having all the junk in storage bins looks better.
I had a tri-fold cover (the solid one) that I really liked when not towing…but had to get rid of it as when you folded it forward to clear the hitch for towing it was too high and would hit the bottom of the BR when turning.
The ReTrax like Howard has (at least I think it's a ReTrax) will roll up and not cause many issues…it only sticks up from the bed rails something less than about an inch…and has a box thing it rolls up into at the front top of the bed below the rails…about 12 inches square I guess. That would kill the space my Walmart bin lives in though…
I would be Leary of raising mine any higher, reason I was asking. My previous DRV was rather high also. Was over 13'. Seen lots of overpasses/bridges 14' and with additional paying etc!!!
-- Edited by Glenn West on Sunday 13th of July 2014 04:32:49 PM
Steve,
I know of at least two fifth wheels that encountered low overpasses. 13'6" is only the "legal" maximum without having to be ran as an oversized load. Both of the fifth wheels that I know of, one a DRV that I actually had eyes-on, had the roofs peeled back. One of those was directed to a route via OnStar and a policeman that had an 11-foot clearance.
One time here in Oklahoma, they built a new four-lane through part of Oklahoma City. When it was all done, they had to go back in and tear out all of the new roadway at one intersection, dig down some and then build the highway again. It seems the state's "engineers" miscalculated on the bridge going over that section and it was lower than specified, thus too low for some loads.
The trucker's atlas should help you a lot.
Terry