Does anyone have information on the advantages/disadvantages of internal surge protection vs external. I understand the possibility of theft, I thought I would use one of the locking devices.
We now have our new Keystone Alpine 3010RE and want to get this protection added.
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
-- Edited by oldyank on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 12:02:25 PM
-- Edited by oldyank on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 12:02:53 PM
GENECOP said
12:08 PM May 6, 2014
Both work about the same, with the exception of security and a little extra work. Progressive (I think) is the prefered brand.....let us know what you decide on.....and welcome to the Forum....
Lucky Mike said
12:35 PM May 6, 2014
They are both basically the same product......one is plug & play with a slight theft problem , the other has to be wired in which gives it a little more security.
Mine is a plug and play with an added security lock box that enables me to take it from coach to coach as I go along without having to purchase another.
I have never had a theft problem nor have I seen one personally in 14 years plus of fulltiming...but things do happen.
Jack Mayer said
01:56 PM May 6, 2014
The BIG advantage of the hardwired is the remote display inside the coach. That allows you to learn your electrical usage and manage it far better in low power situations. To me, that alone is worth going with the hardwire.
igotjam said
03:24 PM May 6, 2014
I had 2 built ins give up on me. When they go, they leave you without shore power and you have to disconnect the device and splice around it to get power. Its not hard to do, but when it happens in the dark and in the rain it is a hassle. I now have permanently wired around my non functioning surge protector and use a pedestal one. Some built in ones apparently have a switch so you can cut the protector out of the circit if it goes bad but both of mine did not.
-- Edited by igotjam on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 03:26:19 PM
TRAILERKING said
03:39 PM May 6, 2014
igotjam wrote:
I had 2 built ins give up on me. When they go, they leave you without shore power and you have to disconnect the device and splice around it to get power. Its not hard to do, but when it happens in the dark and in the rain it is a hassle. I now have permanently wired around my non functioning surge protector and use a pedestal one. Some built in ones apparently have a switch so you can cut the protector out of the circit if it goes bad but both of mine did not.
-- Edited by igotjam on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 03:26:19 PM
That is not so with the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C.......You can over-ride the unit at any time.
-- Edited by TRAILERKING on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 03:39:48 PM
HabDaddy said
04:51 PM May 6, 2014
I would agree with everything said. I use an external. The nice thing is portability (I have two trailers). Theft is always a possibility but I have not had mine stolen. I do have a safety lock that I sometimes use but it is just plastic and if someone wanted it bad enough, it would be easy to remove.
The other thing to keep in mind is cost. I am not sure if a portable is more expensive or cheaper but just something else to keep in mind.
Selah said
06:58 PM May 6, 2014
It's just a convenience thing as both work just fine. I have only heard of one theft of a portable on a forum a year or so ago. I don't think I would make the decision based on that one incident.
I had mine hard wired to the side of my power cord reel. Like I said, it's just a convenience for me. I just pull the power cord out, plug it in and move on to water and sewer.
This is the second coach for this unit. When we traded the first coach the dealer moved it to the new coach at no charge. I do not have the remote display so the move was easy.
If your somewhat handy you can install the hard wired unit your self. Not that big a deal.
RickandJanice said
08:33 PM May 6, 2014
Ditto what Jack said. We also have the hard wire Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C with remote read out. Also find it easier to check the readout for any errors before going outside to the pedestal if there is a power problem.
TRAILERKING said
08:37 PM May 6, 2014
You would have to compare spec's online between the "portable" (of what ever brand) and the
Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C . From what I can remember they will not do everything that the EMS-HW50C will do.
oldyank said
07:11 AM May 7, 2014
Thanks to all for the additional information.
I ordered a 50A external Progressive Industries unit and will use the guard to "protect" it. As HadDaddy said it won't keep it from being stolen but will keep an honest person honest.
The shore power connection on my new Keystone Alpine 3010RE is located at the back of the unit on the "bumper". I guess if someone wanted to take my whole cable and surge protector they'd be able to do that. I just have to trust people and hope it's too big to haul off
oldyank said
06:59 AM May 8, 2014
I had ordered one of the plastic locking devices for our surge protector and have determined that it won't work on the Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C unit that I have. It seems to only work with surge protectors that have two cables, one from each end of the unit. Does anyone know of a locking device that will work with the Progressive Industries unit?
Lucky Mike said
07:07 AM May 8, 2014
a 4 " pvc pipe cut at 1' with a slot cut in in it to hold a long stem padlock...or a long stem padlock and loop it back around the dogbones of the shore cord and the unit....
if theft is a big worry within the park you are in ......release the dogs !!
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Thursday 8th of May 2014 07:09:42 AM
Dog Folks said
07:45 AM May 8, 2014
oldyank wrote:
I had ordered one of the plastic locking devices for our surge protector and have determined that it won't work on the Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C unit that I have. It seems to only work with surge protectors that have two cables, one from each end of the unit. Does anyone know of a locking device that will work with the Progressive Industries unit?
Buy a small padlock. Many, if not all, power pedestal boxes have a little tab that allows you to lock the cover with your electrical cord/surge protector in place.
Usually located on the bottom of the cover, right side.
That is a lot easier than fancy locking systems.
We don't lock ours. In 30 states and almost 8 years, full time, never had a problem.
-- Edited by Dog Folks on Thursday 8th of May 2014 07:48:16 AM
Jack Mayer said
07:16 PM May 10, 2014
Just be aware that if you lock the cover on a pedestal and the park needs to get into it the lock will be cut off.
I do not allow pedestals to be locked. In an emergency I can not get into them fast to flip breakers, etc. People who lock their pedestals get a courtesy visit and an explanation. Second time - a more "pointed" discussion. Third time - no discussion - the lock gets cut off. Usually it is not an issue...people understand when it is explained to them. But there are a certain percentage of RVers that are "entitled" ... or so they think.... :)
Bill and Linda said
11:53 AM May 11, 2014
TRAILERKING wrote:
igotjam wrote:
I had 2 built ins give up on me. When they go, they leave you without shore power and you have to disconnect the device and splice around it to get power. Its not hard to do, but when it happens in the dark and in the rain it is a hassle. I now have permanently wired around my non functioning surge protector and use a pedestal one. Some built in ones apparently have a switch so you can cut the protector out of the circit if it goes bad but both of mine did not.
-- Edited by igotjam on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 03:26:19 PM
That is not so with the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C.......You can over-ride the unit at any time.
-- Edited by TRAILERKING on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 03:39:48 PM
Correct:
A bit more information: The Progressive Industries is wired for “fail-connect.” Meaning if the voltage and wiring protection electronics totally fail the relay will close (NC position) and allow power to the rig. However, the surge part of the protection is still in the circuit regardless as the surge protection is “passive.” (Surge protection operates as a MOV shunt across the power wires)The surge protection doesn’t need the smarts of the device, which monitors voltage and proper connections, to function.
When you use the manual by-pass function on the remote panel the relay allows power to flow.However, the surge part of the protection is still operational.But no protection from high or low voltage, mis-wiring or open neutral/grounds.
Does anyone have information on the advantages/disadvantages of internal surge protection vs external. I understand the possibility of theft, I thought I would use one of the locking devices.
We now have our new Keystone Alpine 3010RE and want to get this protection added.
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
-- Edited by oldyank on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 12:02:25 PM
-- Edited by oldyank on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 12:02:53 PM
Mine is a plug and play with an added security lock box that enables me to take it from coach to coach as I go along without having to purchase another.
I have never had a theft problem nor have I seen one personally in 14 years plus of fulltiming...but things do happen.
I had 2 built ins give up on me. When they go, they leave you without shore power and you have to disconnect the device and splice around it to get power. Its not hard to do, but when it happens in the dark and in the rain it is a hassle. I now have permanently wired around my non functioning surge protector and use a pedestal one. Some built in ones apparently have a switch so you can cut the protector out of the circit if it goes bad but both of mine did not.
-- Edited by igotjam on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 03:26:19 PM
That is not so with the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C.......You can over-ride the unit at any time.
-- Edited by TRAILERKING on Tuesday 6th of May 2014 03:39:48 PM
I would agree with everything said. I use an external. The nice thing is portability (I have two trailers). Theft is always a possibility but I have not had mine stolen. I do have a safety lock that I sometimes use but it is just plastic and if someone wanted it bad enough, it would be easy to remove.
The other thing to keep in mind is cost. I am not sure if a portable is more expensive or cheaper but just something else to keep in mind.
I had mine hard wired to the side of my power cord reel. Like I said, it's just a convenience for me. I just pull the power cord out, plug it in and move on to water and sewer.
This is the second coach for this unit. When we traded the first coach the dealer moved it to the new coach at no charge. I do not have the remote display so the move was easy.
If your somewhat handy you can install the hard wired unit your self. Not that big a deal.
Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C . From what I can remember they will not do everything that the EMS-HW50C will do.
I ordered a 50A external Progressive Industries unit and will use the guard to "protect" it. As HadDaddy said it won't keep it from being stolen but will keep an honest person honest.
The shore power connection on my new Keystone Alpine 3010RE is located at the back of the unit on the "bumper". I guess if someone wanted to take my whole cable and surge protector they'd be able to do that. I just have to trust people and hope it's too big to haul off
a 4 " pvc pipe cut at 1' with a slot cut in in it to hold a long stem padlock...or a long stem padlock and loop it back around the dogbones of the shore cord and the unit....
if theft is a big worry within the park you are in ......release the dogs !!
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Thursday 8th of May 2014 07:09:42 AM
Buy a small padlock. Many, if not all, power pedestal boxes have a little tab that allows you to lock the cover with your electrical cord/surge protector in place.
Usually located on the bottom of the cover, right side.
That is a lot easier than fancy locking systems.
We don't lock ours. In 30 states and almost 8 years, full time, never had a problem.
-- Edited by Dog Folks on Thursday 8th of May 2014 07:48:16 AM
I do not allow pedestals to be locked. In an emergency I can not get into them fast to flip breakers, etc. People who lock their pedestals get a courtesy visit and an explanation. Second time - a more "pointed" discussion. Third time - no discussion - the lock gets cut off. Usually it is not an issue...people understand when it is explained to them. But there are a certain percentage of RVers that are "entitled" ... or so they think.... :)
Correct:
A bit more information: The Progressive Industries is wired for “fail-connect.” Meaning if the voltage and wiring protection electronics totally fail the relay will close (NC position) and allow power to the rig. However, the surge part of the protection is still in the circuit regardless as the surge protection is “passive.” (Surge protection operates as a MOV shunt across the power wires) The surge protection doesn’t need the smarts of the device, which monitors voltage and proper connections, to function.
When you use the manual by-pass function on the remote panel the relay allows power to flow. However, the surge part of the protection is still operational. But no protection from high or low voltage, mis-wiring or open neutral/grounds.
The box is pretty fool proof and it works.
Internal with remote read out highly recommend.