A Lesson and a Question - Hot Water Heater Anode Rods
Terry and Jo said
06:03 PM Apr 27, 2014
We were at an RV rally for SOITC (Suites Owners International Travel Club) in Amarillo a couple of weeks ago. Rolling Retreats out of Elk City was sponsoring the rally and Slade and Alicia gave a couple of seminars. In Slade's seminar, he touched on maintenance items and options for new or replacing "systems" within one's coach. In his seminar, he touched on the anode rods for the hot water heaters. He FIRMLY recommended that everyone change their anode rods yearly, but stressed that they really should be checked every six months.
The anode rods are included in most (but not Atwood) hot water heaters to allow them to corrode instead of the insides of the hot water heater itself. It really got my attention, because in the three years we have been living full time in our coach, I had never even checked the anode rod. So, I went by Camping World on Friday and purchased an anode rod for a Suburban hot water heater, with the intention of changing rods this weekend.
So, let's first have the lesson. I STRONGLY suggest periodic checking of one's anode rods, and you can see why in this picture of the new and the old rods.
As you can see, there is practically nothing left of the old rod. However, now I have to get to the question part of this posting.
I had to go back in with the old rod (in order to have hot water) because the anode rod I bought at Camping World wouldn't thread into the hot water heater. I looked at and compared the threads of the new and old rods and they seemed okay. However, in closer examination, the new rod's threads have two "starting points" instead of only one. Of course, the two starting points are opposite of each other on the rod. Oh, and there are two "stopping points" as well. When looking at the old rod, it had fewer threads than the new one, but it also only had one starting point. Looking at the above picture, one can see that there are more threads on the new rod than shows on the old one.
My question for those in the know is this: Is it "normal" for some to have two starting points? I've certainly never seen them before. If it is normal for some to have two starting points, I also strongly suggest that anyone buying a new rod to go in armed with one's hot water heater model number. Don't do as I did and accept one because it "says it is for a Suburban."
Now, I get to do this job all over again once I get the proper anode rod.
Terry
01zeosix said
06:28 AM Apr 28, 2014
Hi Terry-
It sounds like the one you have has been "used" by someone else and was cross threaded. Just sayin'.
You might want to toss the mis-threaded rod and order a replacement Suburban 232767 Magnesium Anode Rod. You can also go to a "Big Box" store and get a plug to put into the drain where the anode rods go. That's what I did while I was waiting for a proper replacement.
BTW: I ordered 2 of them so, I would have a spare. Change them a couple of times a year, depending on the water.
Hope this helps....
TRAILERKING said
08:21 AM Apr 28, 2014
What you are explaining is a "Double Start" thread. I've never seen that used on an anode rod though. Quite possible when the new "Chinesium" one was manufactured, it was done incorrectly, and they made them with double start threads. Poor quality control just sent them out the door, shipped in large "sea cans", to be distributed by retailers throughout America.
Just my good guess.......
MarkS said
08:47 AM Apr 28, 2014
Terry, I am compiling a list of spares to carry with me. Filters, anode rod, caps, fittings, anything that needs routine changing, represents a single point failure, or breaks frequently, like sewer hose fittings. I figure it's easier to carry those items than to try and hunt them down.
Bill and Linda said
12:32 PM Apr 28, 2014
MarkS wrote:
Terry, I am compiling a list of spares to carry with me. Filters, anode rod, caps, fittings, anything that needs routine changing, represents a single point failure, or breaks frequently, like sewer hose fittings. I figure it's easier to carry those items than to try and hunt them down.
Mark, I have two items that fit the "single point of failure" I have always carried. A spare 12 volt converter. If the converter / battery charger fails and you have no 12 volts, you basically have no trailer. No fridge and probably few if any lights, etc. My other is a spare water pump for what I consider to be obvious reasons if you are traveling and not at a fixed location most of the time.
Concerning the anode rod they get "sacrificed" at different rates in different parts of the country. The southwest is particularly hard on them and their residue will get into the waterlines and sometimes cause toilet valves and check values to become leaky. (Ask me how I know this.)
Bill
HabDaddy said
02:50 PM Apr 28, 2014
I have never seen anything that has "two" starting points. As mentioned above, it sounds like the QC department in China missed that one.
Lucky Mike said
03:06 PM Apr 28, 2014
thats what I was thinking......somebody goofed!!
TRAILERKING said
04:02 PM Apr 28, 2014
HabDaddy wrote:
I have never seen anything that has "two" starting points. As mentioned above, it sounds like the QC department in China missed that one.
Oh yes.......There is double start, triple start, even quad start. You'll see double start sometimes on food jars like peanut butter, jam, etc. Containers like thermos bottles, water & pop bottles.
Terry and Jo said
05:58 PM Apr 28, 2014
First of all, I made an error in my comment about Atwood hot water heaters not having anode rods. I had read that on a forum and "presumed" that the posters knew what they were talking about. However, in looking at things on the internet today, I saw listings for anode rods for Atwood hot water heaters.
We took the bad one back to Camping World this evening and picked up a magnesium one that is specifically listed as a replacement for the original part number from Suburban. It's threatening rain this evening, so I'll probably wait until tomorrow to change out the rods.
Having worked on trucks, tractors and other farm implements (among other things), I knew the value of not forcing the threads into the hot water heater. However, having said that, I did recently manage to cross thread a PEX fitting onto the input "pipe" for our shower faucet. That minor cross-threading managed to create a slow leak that required replacement of the faucet.
The main thing to learn with regards to such things is to NOT force a threaded item into it's receptacle as I did with the faucet fitting. Unfortunately, on the plastic of the shower valve, it isn't always easy to tell that you are cross-threading.
Terry
PD CFK said
06:02 PM Apr 28, 2014
Read this topic recently on another forum and mentioned it to DH. He checked it out and yep, it was in the same condition of Terry's Went to Camping World and got a replacement for it. He says it was extremely simple to change out, but then he is mechanically inclined... Amazing the things you learn about on the forums, especially this one. Pat K
bjoyce said
10:00 PM Apr 28, 2014
They make anode rods for Atwood hot water heaters so they can sell you something you don't need. Atwood says not to use them. Our old RV had an Atwood and since it had an aluminum tank, it did not need an anode.
Anode rods are magnesium, aluminum or zinc alloy, and that is the order of how reactive they are, so magnesium is the most reactive and protective of a steel hot water tank like the Suburban. Suburban recommends magnesium for most people (if you move, this the the best one), aluminum for some who are static and zinc for none. Our current one has a Suburban and I check the rod yearly. About half the time they last two years, the other times they only last one.
Bill and Linda said
08:03 AM Apr 29, 2014
Picking up on Bill J's comments, the fact the Atwood water heater does not require a rod is the reason, when we had a choice on the NH, to select the Atwood instead of the Suburban. (Actually the 16 gallon unit - it works very well.)
The Suburban worked well as a water heater without problems in our previous rigs. However, when I traced the "particles" in our water lines to the anode rod that made the Atwood choice for the NH obvious. And yes, I can tell anyone who wants to know exactly how the particles got from the water heater to cold water lines. There is more to this and it can actually cause some toilets to run not to mention putting "things" in your drinking water even with a filter in the line. You also may want to try and "wash out" the inside Suburban water heater tank when you change the rod. You will be surprised how much material (particles) is in there. I actually was able to use a wet vacuum to clean ours out more completely.
Glad Terry brought this up. This is a big problem in some cases for those keeping their rigs more than a couple of years or so and travel; especially to places like the southwest which we really enjoy.
FWIW
MarkS said
08:24 AM Apr 29, 2014
So. I've heard not to use aluminum cookware because the aluminum is not healthy. I wonder how this plays into what the water heater is made of.
I've also heard that big foot lives in the woods behind my house but I've never seen him.
Terry and Jo said
02:38 PM May 4, 2014
When we replaced the anode rod, we managed to get it for $10 off because of a Camping World "internet sale" price of roughly $12 each. We priced around a few places and still couldn't find any cheaper than that, so I got online and the internet sale was still going on. I printed out the page with the price on it and took it by Camping World this afternoon and picked up three more anode rods for future use. Saving $30 total for three is about like getting one for free at the $12 price. Our hot water heater is the Suburban SW12DE model. Picking up at the store saved us about $10 in shipping costs, but we did have to pay sales tax.
I just thought I would take the opportunity to mention that for those that might want to save some money.
With our upcoming move to Colorado in a couple of months, we also ordered one of the Progressive Industries power protection devices and a rebuild kit and pressure gauge for our Watts water pressure regulator. I think we've spent enough for RV stuff for a bit. Well, except for the carpet Jo would like.
Terry
NWescapee said
08:02 PM May 5, 2014
Hey Terry - just saw this thread, sorry, haven't been online as much the last few days.
The mobile RV tech we know who spends winters in AZ and summers in SD strongly recommended this to Dale so we did the hot water flush out and replaced the anode as well as the heating element. One cost saving note on this, Dale has found that some Ace Hardware stores have the anode for less cost than Camping World and almost any Hardware store, aka the "big box" stores have the replacement heating elements for much less than Camping World.
Terry and Jo said
08:37 PM May 5, 2014
Thanks, Ruth. I go to Ace Hardware quite a bit for "specialty" bolts and other hardware that Lowes and Home Depot don't seem to carry. I'll have to keep them in mind for the anode rods in the future. That information may also be helpful for others here on the forums.
We were at an RV rally for SOITC (Suites Owners International Travel Club) in Amarillo a couple of weeks ago. Rolling Retreats out of Elk City was sponsoring the rally and Slade and Alicia gave a couple of seminars. In Slade's seminar, he touched on maintenance items and options for new or replacing "systems" within one's coach. In his seminar, he touched on the anode rods for the hot water heaters. He FIRMLY recommended that everyone change their anode rods yearly, but stressed that they really should be checked every six months.
The anode rods are included in most (but not Atwood) hot water heaters to allow them to corrode instead of the insides of the hot water heater itself. It really got my attention, because in the three years we have been living full time in our coach, I had never even checked the anode rod. So, I went by Camping World on Friday and purchased an anode rod for a Suburban hot water heater, with the intention of changing rods this weekend.
So, let's first have the lesson. I STRONGLY suggest periodic checking of one's anode rods, and you can see why in this picture of the new and the old rods.
As you can see, there is practically nothing left of the old rod. However, now I have to get to the question part of this posting.
I had to go back in with the old rod (in order to have hot water) because the anode rod I bought at Camping World wouldn't thread into the hot water heater. I looked at and compared the threads of the new and old rods and they seemed okay. However, in closer examination, the new rod's threads have two "starting points" instead of only one. Of course, the two starting points are opposite of each other on the rod. Oh, and there are two "stopping points" as well. When looking at the old rod, it had fewer threads than the new one, but it also only had one starting point. Looking at the above picture, one can see that there are more threads on the new rod than shows on the old one.
My question for those in the know is this: Is it "normal" for some to have two starting points? I've certainly never seen them before. If it is normal for some to have two starting points, I also strongly suggest that anyone buying a new rod to go in armed with one's hot water heater model number. Don't do as I did and accept one because it "says it is for a Suburban."
Now, I get to do this job all over again once I get the proper anode rod.
Terry
Hi Terry-
It sounds like the one you have has been "used" by someone else and was cross threaded. Just sayin'.
You might want to toss the mis-threaded rod and order a replacement Suburban 232767 Magnesium Anode Rod. You can also go to a "Big Box" store and get a plug to put into the drain where the anode rods go. That's what I did while I was waiting for a proper replacement.
BTW: I ordered 2 of them so, I would have a spare. Change them a couple of times a year, depending on the water.
Hope this helps....
Just my good guess.......
Mark, I have two items that fit the "single point of failure" I have always carried. A spare 12 volt converter. If the converter / battery charger fails and you have no 12 volts, you basically have no trailer. No fridge and probably few if any lights, etc. My other is a spare water pump for what I consider to be obvious reasons if you are traveling and not at a fixed location most of the time.
Concerning the anode rod they get "sacrificed" at different rates in different parts of the country. The southwest is particularly hard on them and their residue will get into the waterlines and sometimes cause toilet valves and check values to become leaky. (Ask me how I know this.)
Bill
Oh yes.......There is double start, triple start, even quad start. You'll see double start sometimes on food jars like peanut butter, jam, etc. Containers like thermos bottles, water & pop bottles.
First of all, I made an error in my comment about Atwood hot water heaters not having anode rods. I had read that on a forum and "presumed" that the posters knew what they were talking about. However, in looking at things on the internet today, I saw listings for anode rods for Atwood hot water heaters.
We took the bad one back to Camping World this evening and picked up a magnesium one that is specifically listed as a replacement for the original part number from Suburban. It's threatening rain this evening, so I'll probably wait until tomorrow to change out the rods.
Having worked on trucks, tractors and other farm implements (among other things), I knew the value of not forcing the threads into the hot water heater. However, having said that, I did recently manage to cross thread a PEX fitting onto the input "pipe" for our shower faucet. That minor cross-threading managed to create a slow leak that required replacement of the faucet.
The main thing to learn with regards to such things is to NOT force a threaded item into it's receptacle as I did with the faucet fitting. Unfortunately, on the plastic of the shower valve, it isn't always easy to tell that you are cross-threading.
Terry
Anode rods are magnesium, aluminum or zinc alloy, and that is the order of how reactive they are, so magnesium is the most reactive and protective of a steel hot water tank like the Suburban. Suburban recommends magnesium for most people (if you move, this the the best one), aluminum for some who are static and zinc for none. Our current one has a Suburban and I check the rod yearly. About half the time they last two years, the other times they only last one.
Picking up on Bill J's comments, the fact the Atwood water heater does not require a rod is the reason, when we had a choice on the NH, to select the Atwood instead of the Suburban. (Actually the 16 gallon unit - it works very well.)
The Suburban worked well as a water heater without problems in our previous rigs. However, when I traced the "particles" in our water lines to the anode rod that made the Atwood choice for the NH obvious. And yes, I can tell anyone who wants to know exactly how the particles got from the water heater to cold water lines. There is more to this and it can actually cause some toilets to run not to mention putting "things" in your drinking water even with a filter in the line. You also may want to try and "wash out" the inside Suburban water heater tank when you change the rod. You will be surprised how much material (particles) is in there. I actually was able to use a wet vacuum to clean ours out more completely.
Glad Terry brought this up. This is a big problem in some cases for those keeping their rigs more than a couple of years or so and travel; especially to places like the southwest which we really enjoy.
FWIW
I've also heard that big foot lives in the woods behind my house but I've never seen him.
When we replaced the anode rod, we managed to get it for $10 off because of a Camping World "internet sale" price of roughly $12 each. We priced around a few places and still couldn't find any cheaper than that, so I got online and the internet sale was still going on. I printed out the page with the price on it and took it by Camping World this afternoon and picked up three more anode rods for future use. Saving $30 total for three is about like getting one for free at the $12 price. Our hot water heater is the Suburban SW12DE model. Picking up at the store saved us about $10 in shipping costs, but we did have to pay sales tax.
I just thought I would take the opportunity to mention that for those that might want to save some money.
Camping World Internet Sale - Anode Rods
With our upcoming move to Colorado in a couple of months, we also ordered one of the Progressive Industries power protection devices and a rebuild kit and pressure gauge for our Watts water pressure regulator. I think we've spent enough for RV stuff for a bit. Well, except for the carpet Jo would like.
Terry
The mobile RV tech we know who spends winters in AZ and summers in SD strongly recommended this to Dale so we did the hot water flush out and replaced the anode as well as the heating element. One cost saving note on this, Dale has found that some Ace Hardware stores have the anode for less cost than Camping World and almost any Hardware store, aka the "big box" stores have the replacement heating elements for much less than Camping World.
Thanks, Ruth. I go to Ace Hardware quite a bit for "specialty" bolts and other hardware that Lowes and Home Depot don't seem to carry. I'll have to keep them in mind for the anode rods in the future. That information may also be helpful for others here on the forums.
Terry