I did what they suggested since living in a park full time.. close your grey tank 2 days before you want to drain the black one. Well here is the one situation I didnt expect....black tank still shows full after. I called camping world (where I bought it from)...just a glitch you must not be reading it right. I told them: HELLO I have a degree, the red light states full at all times...it was at empty when it was pulled in.. but now wont go down.
What am I doing wrong? They will not help after they made the sale.
The previous owners screwed down the "bed" platform. I know it has storage under it. What can I do to gain that extra storage? I have hydrolic lifts on my car hood...so thought they may work here also... but is there something special I have to do other than just install them...or is there a better solution?
Since I am staying here for a few years... dont know why camping world filled my fresh water tank...with all I have read on here it should be empty when using the park water. I will shut my water off and drain that.. but what is the best way to maintain that tank from becoming nasty?
Thank you all so much in advance for your help!! There is so much more that I have to learn...
lindy said
05:50 AM Apr 9, 2014
If you are positive the black tank emptied (you heard the stuff rush out), then its common for tank indicators to still read full, especially the black tank. The sensors sense the presence of water, and it's common for toilet paper to get hung on the probes thus they stay wet and continue to show full even when empty. The only way to get accurate reading is to replace your current sensors with new sensors that are attached to the outside of the tank.
Alie and Jims Carrilite said
06:11 AM Apr 9, 2014
Put one of the clear inspection hose pieces on/inline on you sewer line. Sewer outlet on camper >>> Clear adapter >>> Sewer hose . Then run 4-5 minutes of water into your black tank thru you toilet and open the valve again watching for flow in the clear piece. Closing the gray tank a day or 2 ahead of dumping tanks is the correct way to flush the line. Use plenty of water in the black tank.
el Rojo and Pam said
06:40 AM Apr 9, 2014
Sometimes we use a 5 gallon bucket full of water to dump into the toilet to clear the mound that forms when sitting still. The trick is to poor the water in fast to level the solids. It will also help with washing to toilet paper from the sides of the tank.
TheHarveys said
06:48 AM Apr 9, 2014
I will not add much to the black tank discussion as others have already covered it. I will say that our black tank sensor never goes below 1/3 full...even after I dump and flush it completely out.
In regards to the bed platform...it may be screwed down from the factory. They may have done that because, if the bed slides out, there may not actually be much usable storage room with all the slide out mechanics under there. In our Carri-Lite, the bed platform is also screwed down because it covers all the mechanical slide out stuff. I know because I have had to remove it two or three times to work on bedroom slide out issues.
We do have a drawer that pulls out from the foot of the bed and that does give us some extra storage.
If you are wondering about what is under the bed platform, it is not difficult to remove the screws and lift up the plywood. If there is storage room under there, then it would also not be hard to buy a couple hydraulic lifts and mount them to allow you to lift the platform. However, you would also need to put hinges at the head of the bed, otherwise the lifts will not do you any good.
2riker2go said
07:21 AM Apr 9, 2014
Yeah, we don't even look at our black tank sensors, they read full all the time. We just know we need to empty them after a certain number of days and just stick to that schedule.
FLCoastalChick said
08:14 AM Apr 9, 2014
I know I have been on here for awhile researching… but now being a “newbie” it’s a totally different world. .
I watched my next door neighbor drain his hot water heater while he left his water on… I know better now… his bottom is ruined because he was impatient to wait for the water to cool down and that 10 gal tank turned into 50.
The 5er fresh water tank is 2/3ds full…I want it empty so if or when we have a hurricane I can fill it and I have fresh water. The place that it was purchased from stated just pour some bleach in there every month to keep it fresh. SERIOUSLY? I was under the impression you left it empty and when you needed to move the RV you filled it. AND number 2... I am allergic to bleach. Please suggestions how to keep the tank fresh water while it sits there.
If hurricane I will be moving it via transport to a 12’ wall storage unit… but bleach?
I am sorry so many questions but camping world just blew me off on all of them I had
bjoyce said
09:06 AM Apr 9, 2014
For treating the water, do an internet search for "Purogene", it is what we use and is about the same thing your city water was treated with. It is not cheap, but works. There are many online sellers.
Once a month you should fill your water tank, turn off the water source and use the water from the tank. Maybe a couple tankfulls to fully flush the contents. It will stay fresh then. We don't sit still much ourselves, so it has not been an issue.
I am not surprised Camping World is not helpful. Not surprised at all.
PIEERE said
09:15 AM Apr 9, 2014
Black Water tanks need to be thoroughy flushed every so often; I would say once a month!!! You can get a clear plastic adapter with a garden hose adapter; don't use your drinking water hose; garden hose is used to backflush. If you will be moving; I heard others say to get about a 20 # bag of ice cubes and put them down your toilet with a few gallons of cold water just before you leave. They also make a wand that you can put down the toilet that sprays water from your garden hose some even have a rotating head that washes the sides of the tank. I always when stationary put about 8-10 gallons of water in with the non-formaldyhyde chemicals.
Fresh Water; Most i have heard use about a 1/4th cup of bleach to a full tank of fresh water; then you have to rinse it about 3-4 times to get rid of the taste and odor. I also heard about using a liquified baking soda solution; but don't know the amount. Most RV stores and even Wally World has a drinking water solution you can use.
Can't help you with the bed. Other than Just cut a 2" X 2" the length you need to prop up the bed; as said hinge one end.
Clay L said
10:35 AM Apr 9, 2014
I always keep some water in the tank in case the park water goes down. I use it so that it I have add new every month so it stays fresh. In some parks the pressure is so low that I use the pump to get enough pressure for a good shower. The problem is not the sensors being dirty but is due to the tank walls being gunked up and fooling the sensors.
Even the non-contact sensors on the outside of the tank can be fooled if the walls are cruddy enough. SeeLevel even points this out on their web site.
The SeeLevel web site says "If sludge buildup in the tank becomes extreme the gauge will cease to operate (the tank will always read empty), so by monitoring the signal level the tank can be cleaned before the buildup gets excessive".
Anything you do to help keep the tank walls clean may help. Flushing, adding some detergent and water before you drive for a day or so might help.
I have the TrueLevel non-contact system that Winnebago went standard with in 2005 and right now my black tank reads full when empty. The gray tank shows 2/3 full when empty.
Over the ten years we have been full timing I have tried everything people say will work and nothing worked. If I pressure wash the inside of the black tank (have done that twice), the level will be measured normally for a few months and then start to lie.
I think the problem is worse for full timers and that may be why some weekend or short term campers find that detergent or some other method works for them.
I just dump it every ten days and don't worry about it anymore.
-- Edited by Clay L on Wednesday 9th of April 2014 10:37:02 AM
Barbaraok said
01:11 PM Apr 9, 2014
Do you think that you will be able to find someone to transport it if there is a hurricane bearing down? Have you contracted with someplace to provide that service?
As to water, just fill the tank and use your pump - when it is down to 1/3 full, fill again. That way your tank will always be ready and your pump will have been exercised, and the residual chlorine content of the city water will keep problems from occurring with your tank. As noted, you only need to do this once in a while, but not having water in your tank can be a problem if there is a failure of the city water system, like a line break.
Barb
-- Edited by Barbaraok on Wednesday 9th of April 2014 04:58:40 PM
The Bear II said
02:29 PM Apr 9, 2014
Another way to sweeten up the freshwater tank is to put in a gallon of the cheapest wine you can find. Fill the tank up with water let it drain and you will have the best tasting water when you fill it up again.
DebbieM said
02:34 PM Apr 9, 2014
I'm guessing your serious? Exactly what does the wine do to help? Just curious.
Lucky Mike said
02:45 PM Apr 9, 2014
Jesus did it at a temple party!!!!!...................worked great!!
(I observe native american beliefs....this is not a religious comment , just something I read in a "Good Book" one time)
MarkS said
05:02 PM Apr 9, 2014
Let me make sure I have this right... Fill your water tank with wine... Drink. I like the way you think!!!
folivier said
05:23 PM Apr 9, 2014
We hardly ever leave a hose connected to the campground supply. Rather we fill our tank then use it up. When we need to we fill it again. That way we're never out of water, never have to worry about a busted line or hose flooding the coach. When we leave for the day we just flip the water pump off.
Terry and Jo said
08:18 PM Apr 9, 2014
Kim,
I'm presuming your Cougar does NOT have a black tank flush inlet for flushing after dumping. Therefore, look at the link below at the 4th (I think) picture of the blog post to see the type of clear plastic sewer adapter the others have been talking about. EZE-Kleen Sewer System The advantage of the clear plastic adapters also allow you to see what is running out.
In fact, while looking at that blog post, check out the EZE-Kleen sewer system. We are "static" full-timers and have used this system for about 3 years now and have never had a problem with it. The only issue we have had is because our lot is not level, so the sewer line (which goes forward from the coach's sewer outlet) doesn't have a lot of slope to better facilitate draining of the tanks.
The advantage of some kind of PVC sewer system is that you don't have to deal with the "stinky-slinky" icing up if it gets cold. There were some RV Dreamers a few years ago that saw their slinky freeze up solid with a build up of ice. Now, if you aren't in an area where freezing is a problem, then I've just written a bunch for no reason, although PVC will still last a lot longer than the slinky hoses.
Terry
Talensnana said
09:19 PM Apr 9, 2014
We have used ice cubes in the tank. It does help clean any stuff from the sensors
FLCoastalChick said
11:52 AM Apr 10, 2014
Thank you so much for all the help...I am so very sure I will have many more questions. Thought I did all the research prior to the purchase... but guess what: not so much..lol. Things pop up and its like: OMG what just happened?
Now the wine idea would be up my alley...not so much sure if I got pulled over speeding after a shower the cops would like the smell of chardonney colone and mouth wash!!
Lonney Wade said
12:07 PM Apr 10, 2014
Funny, funny, I like that one the wine idea, I will have to try that, but not get pulled over.
Lonney
Barbaraok said
12:42 PM Apr 10, 2014
Never would I waste a good bottle of wine by diluting it with water! Such tragedies are not allowed in our rig!
Much better idea is vinegar (could be from wine if you let the wine go bad) - will help with all sorts of things.
Barb
Workinrvers said
04:19 PM Apr 10, 2014
Talensnana wrote:
We have used ice cubes in the tank. It does help clean any stuff from the sensors
only works if you move the rig after pouring into the tank, not so good when you are sitting still and it looks like the OP is set up fairly permanently.
Lucky Mike said
04:44 PM Apr 10, 2014
go to the store and buy a bottle of dishwasher detergent..(Cheap Store brand)...pour a cupful into the tank and use lots of water when flushing....this will help breakdown the waste that is stuck to the tank walls and help clean the tank out.......if you use any type of tank additive ...DO NOT add it to the tank while using the dishwasher detergent.........you also might want to look at campers world or walmart for a tank spray wand....the one with the rotary sprayer works best !!
Good luck!
Penny and Paul said
07:59 PM Apr 10, 2014
Using the systems your RV come with is the best way to maintain them.
I started to use the fresh water tank, moving or not. I fill it from whatever source is provided and filter it on the way in. We actually have more water pressure using the tank/ pump than running city water directly using a regulator (you ALWAYS want to use a pressure regulator) and then running it through the filters. When it gets low. I refill it. The water stays fresh that way and I know the water pump is working. No algae, bad taste or bad smells.
Same with the waste tanks. I keep them closed until I need to drain them. Keeps the valves supple and I always have enough pressure to suck the stuff out well. After I drain the black tank, I put two or three gallons of clean water down the toilet. That keeps the next load (?) from sticking to the bottom. My bowl holds 1/2 gallon, so four fill/ flush cycles puts two gallons of water in the tank which is enough to cover the bottom of my tank. Yours may be different depending on size and how big the bottom is. Like Lucky Mike, I use dishwasher detergent in mine. I like the little packets that have the detergent, some Dawn dishwashing detergent and some Jet-Dry in them. The dish washer detergent is good at getting off stuck-on crud, the Dawn cuts grease and the Jet-Dry softens the water to help crud not stick to the tank in the first place. My black tank lets me know when it needs to be drained by "burping". The air can't get out the roof vent when it gets full, and so when I flush it burps to get air out. Yours may or may not do this, but you can check to see if it does, using clean water. Throw your detergent in the toilet and flush it down. Then add clean water using buckets or some thing that lets you know how many gallons your putting in, and see if it burps when it gets near full. By using a known quantity you can reduce the chances of something bad happening by over filling it. If your tank holds 30 gallons and it burps before you put 30 gallons down the toilet, you're good. If you get to 28 gallons (or close to whatever it holds) and it doesn't burp, STOP. At least you now have a full tank of cleanish water. Throw your detergent in there and go away for the day, or longer if you can. Then dump it. With any luck, you'll have dissolved whatever is in there and flushed it out. If you absolutely have to rely on the sensor, and your rig isn't equipped with a power washer, You'll need to use the rotating wand thingy. Once you've been using the detergent awhile and flushing occasionally if needed. The whole thing will start to work better, smell better and be less nasty to deal with. Use lots of water. Have water in the bowl before you use it and flush for a count of 5. Lots of water is the key.
By keeping the gray tank closed I almost always have enough gray water to rinse everything from the black tank out. I periodically dissolve a detergent packet it the drain and will the tank to clean out any grease and bits of food that go down the drain. That stuff gets to smelling nasty.
I know this is a lot of information, but this method has evolved since 2006 when we had our first RV. Now I never need to use tank deodorizers or waste eating chemicals.
Wheel_Estate said
11:09 AM Apr 11, 2014
On the sailboat I used cheap gin to clean the fresh water tank and carried over that practice to the RV. Since we use the tank a lot boondocking an occasional cleaning is needed. We don't drink that water, but would feel safe doing so.
Upon leaving Quartzsite I blew a few gallons of vinegar into the system to cut scale. When we arrived here I flushed the gunk left by the heavy minerals. Cheap gin knocked down the "salad" odor and left no taste.
Anyone have some olives? :D
bigboomer said
12:33 PM Apr 11, 2014
Sensors? What sensors? WE do not need no stinking sensors!
We wait for the burp and then we know it is time to dump....we use a good amount of water when flushing so there is enough fluid to flush away....
Wheel_Estate said
12:14 PM Apr 12, 2014
bigboomer wrote:
Sensors? What sensors? WE do not need no stinking sensors!
We wait for the burp and then we know it is time to dump....we use a good amount of water when flushing so there is enough fluid to flush away....
I listen for that particular "PLOP" that says its about that time. A flashlight confirms our level on the black tank, as the sensors haven't worked since we got the rig and not worth my time to replace them.
Terry and Jo said
01:32 PM Apr 13, 2014
Jay's comment about the flashlight can be a life-saver, as long as your toilet flushes directly down into the black tank. I never trust the gauges, even though ours work pretty well, even after 3 years of full-time living. When I suspect it to be getting near full, I take my flashlight and flush the tank while looking down into the tank. The water going into the tank "roils" the surface of the liquid in the black tank and makes it easier to see just how close the level is to the bottom of the "pipe" going into the tank from the toilet.
As for the idea of flushing the black tank with water from the grey, that won't work on all systems. In our coach, the black tank actually sits a couple of feet above the grey tank and there is no pump to take the grey water up.
Terry
Penny and Paul said
02:28 PM Apr 13, 2014
Terry and Jo wrote:
Jay's comment about the flashlight can be a life-saver, as long as your toilet flushes directly down into the black tank. I never trust the gauges, even though ours work pretty well, even after 3 years of full-time living. When I suspect it to be getting near full, I take my flashlight and flush the tank while looking down into the tank. The water going into the tank "roils" the surface of the liquid in the black tank and makes it easier to see just how close the level is to the bottom of the "pipe" going into the tank from the toilet.
...
Terry
Just make sure you don't drop the flashlight!
WestWardHo said
03:16 PM Apr 13, 2014
I learned somewhere, can't remember where, that the tanks under our rigs are rectangular flat tanks, not very deep, with one flat side up. Somehow I had a mental image of a round cylindrical tank.
When you think about this rectangular flat shape it's easier to understand how problems come up.
Sherry
Terry and Jo said
07:20 PM Apr 13, 2014
I can't speak to all RV's as to the shape of the tanks, but here is a picture of a DRV Suites frame with holding tanks. The white tank in the foreground is the fresh water tank. Behind it and above is a rectangular tank that is the black tank. Below that one and below the plywood that holds the pump and other components is where the grey water tank is located.
Now, with regards to the use of a rectangular tank, I can see how it would be easier to flush using the flush systems than a taller, cylindrical tank. The taller tank might not get "flushed" at the upper part of the tank.
Terry
FLCoastalChick said
10:07 AM Apr 14, 2014
I have been dealing with camping world since we got the 5er...I may have crossed the line from the B word to the C word!! Been dealing with these issues and several other things and they have blown me off from the very get go...
I am going to get a few more flashlights...TG they have them at the buck store (the Lord knows I will loose a few). Other thing I learned today (I know different thread right now...lol) DO NOT close your galley at the same time as the grey for shower if you are anal about cleaning...I get up in n clean the house first thing...wellllll my dish water did not go down this am (5 am).Black water lies to me and grey galley does not. I was out there at 5:30 am draining black and grey...
So much to learn....TYSVM FOR THIS WEBSITE!!!!
TRAILERKING said
10:11 AM Apr 14, 2014
Terry I'm going to tell you like you tell others...............Re-size your pictures.
Terry and Jo said
05:36 PM Apr 14, 2014
Bernie,
Actually, I don't need to resize it. It already fits on the page without the need to scroll left and right to see it all. Now, if anyone is having to do the scrolling to see it, then maybe one needs to widen their browser.
Terry
TRAILERKING said
09:03 PM Apr 14, 2014
Sorry maybe something wrong with my one 'puter because everything was shifted TOO W I D E. Didn't mean to punch you in the nose...............It was more of a jab.
-- Edited by TRAILERKING on Monday 14th of April 2014 09:03:58 PM
Barbaraok said
12:44 PM Apr 15, 2014
Terry and Jo wrote:
Bernie,
Actually, I don't need to resize it. It already fits on the page without the need to scroll left and right to see it all. Now, if anyone is having to do the scrolling to see it, then maybe one needs to widen their browser.
Terry
Not if you are on a mobile device, then you can't widen the browser any further, but must scroll. Both iPhone and iPad had to scroll. Many, many people now use mobile devices instead of laptops, something to think about.
Barb
TRAILERKING said
01:05 PM Apr 15, 2014
THAT'S STRANGE.....My 'puter at home is fine but the one at the shop isn't wide enough.
RVKevi said
05:48 PM Apr 15, 2014
I'm on my laptop and it is a bit too wide for my browser even though it is at its widest.
BiggarView said
06:17 PM Apr 15, 2014
This thread is fine on my laptop, the "Engine overheating" thread needs scrolling to view completely. That could be because of the photos displayed side by side earlier in the thread.
I did what they suggested since living in a park full time.. close your grey tank 2 days before you want to drain the black one. Well here is the one situation I didnt expect....black tank still shows full after. I called camping world (where I bought it from)...just a glitch you must not be reading it right. I told them: HELLO I have a degree, the red light states full at all times...it was at empty when it was pulled in.. but now wont go down.
What am I doing wrong? They will not help after they made the sale.
The previous owners screwed down the "bed" platform. I know it has storage under it. What can I do to gain that extra storage? I have hydrolic lifts on my car hood...so thought they may work here also... but is there something special I have to do other than just install them...or is there a better solution?
Since I am staying here for a few years... dont know why camping world filled my fresh water tank...with all I have read on here it should be empty when using the park water. I will shut my water off and drain that.. but what is the best way to maintain that tank from becoming nasty?
Thank you all so much in advance for your help!! There is so much more that I have to learn...
In regards to the bed platform...it may be screwed down from the factory. They may have done that because, if the bed slides out, there may not actually be much usable storage room with all the slide out mechanics under there. In our Carri-Lite, the bed platform is also screwed down because it covers all the mechanical slide out stuff. I know because I have had to remove it two or three times to work on bedroom slide out issues.
We do have a drawer that pulls out from the foot of the bed and that does give us some extra storage.
If you are wondering about what is under the bed platform, it is not difficult to remove the screws and lift up the plywood. If there is storage room under there, then it would also not be hard to buy a couple hydraulic lifts and mount them to allow you to lift the platform. However, you would also need to put hinges at the head of the bed, otherwise the lifts will not do you any good.
I watched my next door neighbor drain his hot water heater while he left his water on… I know better now… his bottom is ruined because he was impatient to wait for the water to cool down and that 10 gal tank turned into 50.
The 5er fresh water tank is 2/3ds full…I want it empty so if or when we have a hurricane I can fill it and I have fresh water. The place that it was purchased from stated just pour some bleach in there every month to keep it fresh. SERIOUSLY? I was under the impression you left it empty and when you needed to move the RV you filled it. AND number 2... I am allergic to bleach. Please suggestions how to keep the tank fresh water while it sits there.
If hurricane I will be moving it via transport to a 12’ wall storage unit… but bleach?
I am sorry so many questions but camping world just blew me off on all of them I had
Once a month you should fill your water tank, turn off the water source and use the water from the tank. Maybe a couple tankfulls to fully flush the contents. It will stay fresh then. We don't sit still much ourselves, so it has not been an issue.
I am not surprised Camping World is not helpful. Not surprised at all.
Fresh Water; Most i have heard use about a 1/4th cup of bleach to a full tank of fresh water; then you have to rinse it about 3-4 times to get rid of the taste and odor. I also heard about using a liquified baking soda solution; but don't know the amount. Most RV stores and even Wally World has a drinking water solution you can use.
Can't help you with the bed. Other than Just cut a 2" X 2" the length you need to prop up the bed; as said hinge one end.
I always keep some water in the tank in case the park water goes down. I use it so that it I have add new every month so it stays fresh.
In some parks the pressure is so low that I use the pump to get enough pressure for a good shower.
The problem is not the sensors being dirty but is due to the tank walls being gunked up and fooling the sensors.
Even the non-contact sensors on the outside of the tank can be fooled if the walls are cruddy enough. SeeLevel even points this out on their web site.
The SeeLevel web site says "If sludge buildup in the tank becomes extreme the gauge will cease to operate (the tank will always read empty), so by monitoring the signal level the tank can be cleaned before the buildup gets excessive".
Anything you do to help keep the tank walls clean may help.
Flushing, adding some detergent and water before you drive for a day or so might help.
I have the TrueLevel non-contact system that Winnebago went standard with in 2005 and right now my black tank reads full when empty. The gray tank shows 2/3 full when empty.
Over the ten years we have been full timing I have tried everything people say will work and nothing worked.
If I pressure wash the inside of the black tank (have done that twice), the level will be measured normally for a few months and then start to lie.
I think the problem is worse for full timers and that may be why some weekend or short term campers find that detergent or some other method works for them.
I just dump it every ten days and don't worry about it anymore.
-- Edited by Clay L on Wednesday 9th of April 2014 10:37:02 AM
Do you think that you will be able to find someone to transport it if there is a hurricane bearing down? Have you contracted with someplace to provide that service?
As to water, just fill the tank and use your pump - when it is down to 1/3 full, fill again. That way your tank will always be ready and your pump will have been exercised, and the residual chlorine content of the city water will keep problems from occurring with your tank. As noted, you only need to do this once in a while, but not having water in your tank can be a problem if there is a failure of the city water system, like a line break.
Barb
-- Edited by Barbaraok on Wednesday 9th of April 2014 04:58:40 PM
I'm guessing your serious? Exactly what does the wine do to help? Just curious.
(I observe native american beliefs....this is not a religious comment , just something I read in a "Good Book" one time)
Kim,
I'm presuming your Cougar does NOT have a black tank flush inlet for flushing after dumping. Therefore, look at the link below at the 4th (I think) picture of the blog post to see the type of clear plastic sewer adapter the others have been talking about. EZE-Kleen Sewer System The advantage of the clear plastic adapters also allow you to see what is running out.
In fact, while looking at that blog post, check out the EZE-Kleen sewer system. We are "static" full-timers and have used this system for about 3 years now and have never had a problem with it. The only issue we have had is because our lot is not level, so the sewer line (which goes forward from the coach's sewer outlet) doesn't have a lot of slope to better facilitate draining of the tanks.
The advantage of some kind of PVC sewer system is that you don't have to deal with the "stinky-slinky" icing up if it gets cold. There were some RV Dreamers a few years ago that saw their slinky freeze up solid with a build up of ice. Now, if you aren't in an area where freezing is a problem, then I've just written a bunch for no reason, although PVC will still last a lot longer than the slinky hoses.
Terry
We have used ice cubes in the tank. It does help clean any stuff from the sensors
Now the wine idea would be up my alley...not so much sure if I got pulled over speeding after a shower the cops would like the smell of chardonney colone and mouth wash!!
Funny, funny, I like that one the wine idea, I will have to try that, but not get pulled over.
Lonney
Much better idea is vinegar (could be from wine if you let the wine go bad) - will help with all sorts of things.
Barb
only works if you move the rig after pouring into the tank, not so good when you are sitting still and it looks like the OP is set up fairly permanently.
Good luck!
Using the systems your RV come with is the best way to maintain them.
I started to use the fresh water tank, moving or not. I fill it from whatever source is provided and filter it on the way in. We actually have more water pressure using the tank/ pump than running city water directly using a regulator (you ALWAYS want to use a pressure regulator) and then running it through the filters. When it gets low. I refill it. The water stays fresh that way and I know the water pump is working. No algae, bad taste or bad smells.
Same with the waste tanks. I keep them closed until I need to drain them. Keeps the valves supple and I always have enough pressure to suck the stuff out well. After I drain the black tank, I put two or three gallons of clean water down the toilet. That keeps the next load (?) from sticking to the bottom. My bowl holds 1/2 gallon, so four fill/ flush cycles puts two gallons of water in the tank which is enough to cover the bottom of my tank. Yours may be different depending on size and how big the bottom is. Like Lucky Mike, I use dishwasher detergent in mine. I like the little packets that have the detergent, some Dawn dishwashing detergent and some Jet-Dry in them. The dish washer detergent is good at getting off stuck-on crud, the Dawn cuts grease and the Jet-Dry softens the water to help crud not stick to the tank in the first place. My black tank lets me know when it needs to be drained by "burping". The air can't get out the roof vent when it gets full, and so when I flush it burps to get air out. Yours may or may not do this, but you can check to see if it does, using clean water. Throw your detergent in the toilet and flush it down. Then add clean water using buckets or some thing that lets you know how many gallons your putting in, and see if it burps when it gets near full. By using a known quantity you can reduce the chances of something bad happening by over filling it. If your tank holds 30 gallons and it burps before you put 30 gallons down the toilet, you're good. If you get to 28 gallons (or close to whatever it holds) and it doesn't burp, STOP. At least you now have a full tank of cleanish water. Throw your detergent in there and go away for the day, or longer if you can. Then dump it. With any luck, you'll have dissolved whatever is in there and flushed it out. If you absolutely have to rely on the sensor, and your rig isn't equipped with a power washer, You'll need to use the rotating wand thingy. Once you've been using the detergent awhile and flushing occasionally if needed. The whole thing will start to work better, smell better and be less nasty to deal with. Use lots of water. Have water in the bowl before you use it and flush for a count of 5. Lots of water is the key.
By keeping the gray tank closed I almost always have enough gray water to rinse everything from the black tank out. I periodically dissolve a detergent packet it the drain and will the tank to clean out any grease and bits of food that go down the drain. That stuff gets to smelling nasty.
I know this is a lot of information, but this method has evolved since 2006 when we had our first RV. Now I never need to use tank deodorizers or waste eating chemicals.
Upon leaving Quartzsite I blew a few gallons of vinegar into the system to cut scale. When we arrived here I flushed the gunk left by the heavy minerals. Cheap gin knocked down the "salad" odor and left no taste.
Anyone have some olives? :D
Sensors? What sensors? WE do not need no stinking sensors!
We wait for the burp and then we know it is time to dump....we use a good amount of water when flushing so there is enough fluid to flush away....
I listen for that particular "PLOP" that says its about that time. A flashlight confirms our level on the black tank, as the sensors haven't worked since we got the rig and not worth my time to replace them.
Jay's comment about the flashlight can be a life-saver, as long as your toilet flushes directly down into the black tank. I never trust the gauges, even though ours work pretty well, even after 3 years of full-time living. When I suspect it to be getting near full, I take my flashlight and flush the tank while looking down into the tank. The water going into the tank "roils" the surface of the liquid in the black tank and makes it easier to see just how close the level is to the bottom of the "pipe" going into the tank from the toilet.
As for the idea of flushing the black tank with water from the grey, that won't work on all systems. In our coach, the black tank actually sits a couple of feet above the grey tank and there is no pump to take the grey water up.
Terry
Just make sure you don't drop the flashlight!
When you think about this rectangular flat shape it's easier to understand how problems come up.
Sherry
I can't speak to all RV's as to the shape of the tanks, but here is a picture of a DRV Suites frame with holding tanks. The white tank in the foreground is the fresh water tank. Behind it and above is a rectangular tank that is the black tank. Below that one and below the plywood that holds the pump and other components is where the grey water tank is located.
Now, with regards to the use of a rectangular tank, I can see how it would be easier to flush using the flush systems than a taller, cylindrical tank. The taller tank might not get "flushed" at the upper part of the tank.
Terry
I am going to get a few more flashlights...TG they have them at the buck store (the Lord knows I will loose a few). Other thing I learned today (I know different thread right now...lol) DO NOT close your galley at the same time as the grey for shower if you are anal about cleaning...I get up in n clean the house first thing...wellllll my dish water did not go down this am (5 am).Black water lies to me and grey galley does not. I was out there at 5:30 am draining black and grey...
So much to learn....TYSVM FOR THIS WEBSITE!!!!
Terry I'm going to tell you like you tell others...............Re-size your pictures.
Bernie,
Actually, I don't need to resize it. It already fits on the page without the need to scroll left and right to see it all. Now, if anyone is having to do the scrolling to see it, then maybe one needs to widen their browser.
Terry
Sorry maybe something wrong with my one 'puter because everything was shifted TOO W I D E.
Didn't mean to punch you in the nose...............It was more of a jab.
-- Edited by TRAILERKING on Monday 14th of April 2014 09:03:58 PM
Not if you are on a mobile device, then you can't widen the browser any further, but must scroll. Both iPhone and iPad had to scroll. Many, many people now use mobile devices instead of laptops, something to think about.
Barb
This thread is fine on my laptop, the "Engine overheating" thread needs scrolling to view completely. That could be because of the photos displayed side by side earlier in the thread.