This is my first post here. Not yet a full-time, that's the goal my wife and I have for a few years down the road. We do camp several weeks and many weekends each year.
We have a 2013 Fleetwood Bounder that we purchased new last June. We currently have it in the shop getting an upgrade to the electrical system:
Increase house batteries from two to four (have installed four new Trojan T-105)
Install Magnum BMK battery monitor
Install Magnum AGS-N auto generator start
Replace Magnum 1200 modified sine wave inverter with Magnum MS2812 pure sign wave inverter, powering all outlets except refrigerator, fireplace, and air conditioners
The last item has posed a challenge for the technician at the shop. The production wiring configuration with the 1200 watt inverter was to use the inverter to power six or seven outlets, including TV/entertainment system, directly off of a single line out of the inverter. He has initially wired the output of the new 2812 directly to the existing main panel, but, that doesn't work (sets up a loop, basically).
I've sketched a design that I think would provide a solution for what I intended. I would very much appreciate comments/suggestions as to the viability of this design, or any corrections needed.
Lucky Mike said
10:32 AM Apr 8, 2014
why are you omitting the refrigerator from the inverter circuit?.....all A/C's should be excluded and any high draw Items except refer. and M/W.......did the coach not have an inverter originally....if it did the circuit should already be laid out?
Barbaraok said
10:54 AM Apr 8, 2014
Residential refrigerator or RV frig.? I wouldn't put the frig on the inverter unless you add 2 more batteries.
Don't, repeat DON'T, put all of the outlets coming from the inverter. Always have some on and some off - you just never know what can happen down the line.
Barb
bugsplatter said
10:54 AM Apr 8, 2014
The coach currently has a Magnum ME1200 inverter. The refrigerator is a Dometic RV propane/electric model. I don't want to run it off the inverter, if I'm using the inverter, I want the refrigerator running on propane.
Lucky Mike said
11:10 AM Apr 8, 2014
Im one for not doing modifications outside factory guidelines.....
....
Howard said
12:59 PM Apr 8, 2014
Hi Rich,
Your proposed design is what we often see when people install inverters in their fifth wheels and trailers EXCEPT that the subpanel usually includes the circuits that will be run with the inverter rather than the circuits that will not be run with the inverter.
I would highly recommend reading Jack Mayer's Electrical page and concentrate on the parts that pertain to you (you can skip the solar stuff). You can email Jack directly or he's in here from time to time and will probably comment, but he doesn't come in every day and sometimes doesn't visit for several days.
bugsplatter said
01:17 PM Apr 8, 2014
Thanks Howard! I spoke a few hours ago with the shop technician doing this work, and he said pretty much the same thing.
Would a subpanel like this one be a good choice for the circuits run with the inverter?
-- Edited by bugsplatter on Tuesday 8th of April 2014 01:18:05 PM
TRAILERKING said
02:10 PM Apr 8, 2014
Should have the sub panel supplied out of your main panel.
Have you talked to Fleetwood about this?
I have spoke to the about my Heart Interface Source Manager, which was special made for Fleetwood but discontinued. They gave me drawings, instructions, parts list ofr everything needed to do the upgrade to a newer style inverter.
This is different than what you are talking about but just giving you an example of their great service and advice.
Just be sure you're doing things correct. All you need (maybe don't need)is an electrical fire.
That's strange that you don't have any fused panel between the inverter and six receptacles, tv, etc.
Jack Mayer said
08:28 PM Apr 8, 2014
This is a pretty simple problem, really. There are several ways to solve it, but only one I recommend. That is to add a subpanel.
As you note, the Magnum can process 60 amps total, so you should have more than enough power for the circuits you want to power. I do not recommend powering the hot water heater, the AC units, the fireplace or the refrigerator. Other than that, unless I missed something you have in your coach, you can power everything else.
Which subpanel you use is as much an issue of space and what you have now - vs. a particular panel. You can use a small house panel without an issue. Just make SURE that the tech does not bond neutral to ground in any work he does. Most RV techs would not, but it does not sound like this tech is very experienced.
As I said in my email to you, feel free to send me a design and I'll comment on it. I'd also like to know what kind of main panel you have....and how you currently have charge capability set up. Is the main panel a combo panel with a converter built in?
-- Edited by Jack Mayer on Tuesday 8th of April 2014 08:29:34 PM
Bill and Linda said
09:46 AM Apr 9, 2014
I would add a suggestion to Jack’s: As long as you’re doing this wiring add one of these to your shore power input to the transfer switch.That’s assuming you don’t have one already.
This will protect your entire system from everything from power voltage problems (high / low) to lighting strikes.A bit expensive but if you ever have a power issue it will be a lot less expense than fixing a lot of items in the rig.
With this you’ll have a very nice and much safer setup protecting not only the appliances and TV stuff, but that nice new inverter when it is acting like a battery charger.
This is my first post here. Not yet a full-time, that's the goal my wife and I have for a few years down the road. We do camp several weeks and many weekends each year.
We have a 2013 Fleetwood Bounder that we purchased new last June. We currently have it in the shop getting an upgrade to the electrical system:
The last item has posed a challenge for the technician at the shop. The production wiring configuration with the 1200 watt inverter was to use the inverter to power six or seven outlets, including TV/entertainment system, directly off of a single line out of the inverter. He has initially wired the output of the new 2812 directly to the existing main panel, but, that doesn't work (sets up a loop, basically).
I've sketched a design that I think would provide a solution for what I intended. I would very much appreciate comments/suggestions as to the viability of this design, or any corrections needed.
Don't, repeat DON'T, put all of the outlets coming from the inverter. Always have some on and some off - you just never know what can happen down the line.
Barb
....
Hi Rich,
Your proposed design is what we often see when people install inverters in their fifth wheels and trailers EXCEPT that the subpanel usually includes the circuits that will be run with the inverter rather than the circuits that will not be run with the inverter.
I would highly recommend reading Jack Mayer's Electrical page and concentrate on the parts that pertain to you (you can skip the solar stuff). You can email Jack directly or he's in here from time to time and will probably comment, but he doesn't come in every day and sometimes doesn't visit for several days.
Thanks Howard! I spoke a few hours ago with the shop technician doing this work, and he said pretty much the same thing.
Would a subpanel like this one be a good choice for the circuits run with the inverter?
www.bluesea.com/products/8027/Traditional_Metal_Panel_-_AC_Main_%2B_6_Positions
-- Edited by bugsplatter on Tuesday 8th of April 2014 01:18:05 PM
Have you talked to Fleetwood about this?
I have spoke to the about my Heart Interface Source Manager, which was special made for Fleetwood but discontinued. They gave me drawings, instructions, parts list ofr everything needed to do the upgrade to a newer style inverter.
This is different than what you are talking about but just giving you an example of their great service and advice.
Just be sure you're doing things correct. All you need (maybe don't need)is an electrical fire.
That's strange that you don't have any fused panel between the inverter and six receptacles, tv, etc.
This is a pretty simple problem, really. There are several ways to solve it, but only one I recommend. That is to add a subpanel.
As you note, the Magnum can process 60 amps total, so you should have more than enough power for the circuits you want to power. I do not recommend powering the hot water heater, the AC units, the fireplace or the refrigerator. Other than that, unless I missed something you have in your coach, you can power everything else.
Which subpanel you use is as much an issue of space and what you have now - vs. a particular panel. You can use a small house panel without an issue. Just make SURE that the tech does not bond neutral to ground in any work he does. Most RV techs would not, but it does not sound like this tech is very experienced.
As I said in my email to you, feel free to send me a design and I'll comment on it. I'd also like to know what kind of main panel you have....and how you currently have charge capability set up. Is the main panel a combo panel with a converter built in?
-- Edited by Jack Mayer on Tuesday 8th of April 2014 08:29:34 PM
I would add a suggestion to Jack’s: As long as you’re doing this wiring add one of these to your shore power input to the transfer switch. That’s assuming you don’t have one already.
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems_hw50c.htm
This will protect your entire system from everything from power voltage problems (high / low) to lighting strikes. A bit expensive but if you ever have a power issue it will be a lot less expense than fixing a lot of items in the rig.
With this you’ll have a very nice and much safer setup protecting not only the appliances and TV stuff, but that nice new inverter when it is acting like a battery charger.
A thought