Does anyone know of a good source to purchase one of these? It's the 50amp hardwired unit c/w remote. Cheapest price I've found is $431.00 US
Alie and Jims Carrilite said
07:22 AM Jan 31, 2014
Look at Tweety's.com I've found their prices to be competitive with everyone.
TRAILERKING said
08:57 AM Jan 31, 2014
Actually did some searching and found Dyers RV. A shade over $300.00 US, I don't know how they sell it that cheap. That's less than right from Progressive Industries.
Lucky Mike said
09:51 AM Jan 31, 2014
Alot of times things are cheaper thru retailers because of bulk buying.......the manufacturer has an obligation to meet his MSRP or his wholesale customer base would no longer buy from them.......its called profit and Demand(LOL)......would you buy from a wholesaler to retail a product on your shelves if you knew they would sell it for a whole lot less to the customer directly..
you sell VP Racing additives......if VP sold that product to your same customer for alot less than you....would you still be selling that product or even purchasing it wholesale from them....most likely not
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Friday 31st of January 2014 09:52:47 AM
TRAILERKING said
10:31 AM Jan 31, 2014
Yeah I hear you Lucky Mike. I go through that a lot with aftermarket racing parts we sell. My supplier will not handle certain brands because the vendor will end up also selling to anyone off the street for the same price. They just look at it as "a sale is a sale" no matter who buys it.
On a side note does anyone have feedback on dealing with Dyers RV? I see they also have the large outdoor Dometic 72182 cooler that I find "went missing" in my DP when I went to pick it up after the purchase. They have a decent price on that also.
Bill and Linda said
10:34 AM Jan 31, 2014
Don’t forget to purchase the little remote readout to place inside the coach -Very useful. This is the best product you can buy to protect the electrics in your RV.Good choice and worth whatever best price you can find.
Bill
TRAILERKING said
10:42 AM Jan 31, 2014
Bill and Linda wrote:
Don’t forget to purchase the little remote readout to place inside the coach -Very useful. This is the best product you can buy to protect the electrics in your RV.Good choice and worth whatever best price you can find.
Bill
Yes the EMS HW50C does come complete with the remote read-out.
Lucky Mike said
10:43 AM Jan 31, 2014
I buy alot of time from Dyer's.....they have always gone out of there way for me when I needed something....I'm one of those that when the service is top notch paying the extra sometimes is worth it.....I like it when Im treated like somebody rather than just a customer !!
Another Vote for Dyer's! Their located a few miles from my house but they don't sell (out of their warehouse) to the locals. We have to order it online like everyone else but I sure would love to save myself the shipping cost and just pick it up.
Dyer's has to have a really low price for us to purchase from them, we can sometimes get a better deal outside AZ since there's no sales tax. Shop around.
Dave Buck said
10:06 PM Jan 31, 2014
I bought mine from Dyers and they were not only the best price but were very fast at shipping it out. I think I got it in 2 or 3 day after I ordered it.
Rob_Fla said
05:54 AM Feb 1, 2014
We have bought from Dyers also, good prices, good service and communication, fast shipping.
TRAILERKING said
01:01 PM Feb 1, 2014
**UPDATE**
Just ordered one from DYERS RV Online. $309.98 free freight to my broker in Portal, North Dakota. Happy with the low price. Can hardly wait to get it and install it in the coach.
Any one have opinions on the wiring options?
It can be wired just between the shore power(to protect from shore power) or can be wired between shore power and the generator. I was thinking the generator runs clean enough power and wouldn't need it. Just wonder how some of any other high end coaches are wired for this type of protector.
Lucky Mike said
01:14 PM Feb 1, 2014
if you have the access to wire between both I would do it...when generators start to de-tune power can fluctuate not to mention they can get stuck in high or idle wich can cause a brown out or overload in a hurry .......con against doing it is the small spikes put out by the genny can cause it to shut down alot......IMHO
TRAILERKING said
01:41 PM Feb 1, 2014
Yeah I guess can look at it like if bought the one that plugs directly into the post shore power......It's not between the generator power just protecting from shore power. My generator is a 7500 Onan Quiet Diesel. Quite a reputable unit and runs flawless. I think there is a lot of safety features in that generator itself. Need to give it some thought on how I should go about wiring it.
Bill and Linda said
02:10 PM Feb 1, 2014
There are two schools of thought on where to put the hardwired EMS in a rig: on the shore power input to the generator / shore power change over switch or on the output of the change over switch.Cases can be made for both and neither is wrong.I put mine on the shore power input to the switch. Here’s why:
If you get a spike or, as more lightly a “lightening hit” on the shore power the EMS will protect the change over switch and the co/ switch will still allow you to use the generator and even possibly still have shore power if the bypass relay in the EMS isn’t fried.Also you don’t have to replace the changeover switch due to lightening damage.
If you lose the change over switch the generator is useless until you somehow replace or bypass the c/o switch. I’d like to still have generator power at night in the middle of or after an electrical storm if the lighting took out the EMS until I could deal with the EMS.
IMO, the odds of a quality Onan genset running wild is actually less, IMO, than a lighting strike in a campground. But, again, that's just how I do it and why I do it this way. My version served me well after a particular event.
On edit I'll add: The likelihood of lightening related damage in a campground is increased significantly due to there being more electrical wires in the ground per square meter / yard then at a typical location; all those pedestals really close together. All those wires are like big collectors of energy when a lightening bolt hits the ground or a tree in addition to a power pole. They can just transfer all that energy to the power panels and then right into your rig even if everything is properly grounded. Again, that's why I recommend protecting the c/o switch and not worry as much about the generator going haywire. Just my opinion but its based on many years in the electrical world.
Bill
-- Edited by Bill and Linda on Sunday 2nd of February 2014 02:32:15 PM
Found this info on another RV site>>>>>>>>>>>>The EMS is installed between the post and the breaker panel. With a gen set you should install the EMS before the transfer switch. That way both will be protected. Here's a link to the instructions. http://www.viprv.com/ems/HW50COperation_InstallPDF.pdf
The Progressive products are top notch and one of the best investments a full timer can make.
As a part time camper I have been doing the following (see below) to protect my TT but I hope to purchase the Progressive portable 30 or 50 amp unit when we hit the road full-time.
I always check the pedestal before we hook up, I have a tool to plug up that tells me if the ground is good and the receptacle is wired properly. Inside the trailer I have a digital (Onan Unit) voltage meter that lets me know if the voltage drops or surges. I built my own surge protector using three Heavy duty MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) that are installed in the trailer plug. The MOVs will protect us from a 400 Volt surge/spike and they are easy to replace and cheap too, I bought 50+ at an electrical supply house for around $20.00.
The Heavy Duty Metal Oxide Varistor will provide transient protection (volt-
age spike protection) for medium duty cycle consumer and light industrial
products or hobby projects operated by 125 VAC. The varistor is also suit-
able for many telephone projects.
The varistor helps prevent damage to equipment by absorbing high-voltage
surges present on AC power lines. It can be built into equipment for surge
protection or used as replacements for "blown" MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistor)
in surge protectors.
-- Edited by azrving on Saturday 1st of February 2014 09:24:56 PM
TRAILERKING said
09:52 PM Feb 1, 2014
Yes I think I will hard wire this unit between the shore power to transfer switch and NOT between the transfer switch and breaker panel. I don't have any doubts with the generator.....just the shore power.
Thanks for all the input.
Alie and Jims Carrilite said
07:04 AM Feb 2, 2014
Ours is wired to the power cord socket like this..
50 amp cord that goes to the park pedestal, receptacle on the rv side, EMS, then the wire that goes to the transfer switch. Everything but the cord and plug in is protected from high voltage and high amperage.
Does anyone know of a good source to purchase one of these? It's the 50amp hardwired unit c/w remote. Cheapest price I've found is $431.00 US
Alot of times things are cheaper thru retailers because of bulk buying.......the manufacturer has an obligation to meet his MSRP or his wholesale customer base would no longer buy from them.......its called profit and Demand(LOL)......would you buy from a wholesaler to retail a product on your shelves if you knew they would sell it for a whole lot less to the customer directly..
you sell VP Racing additives......if VP sold that product to your same customer for alot less than you....would you still be selling that product or even purchasing it wholesale from them....most likely not
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Friday 31st of January 2014 09:52:47 AM
On a side note does anyone have feedback on dealing with Dyers RV? I see they also have the large outdoor Dometic 72182 cooler that I find "went missing" in my DP when I went to pick it up after the purchase. They have a decent price on that also.
Don’t forget to purchase the little remote readout to place inside the coach - Very useful. This is the best product you can buy to protect the electrics in your RV. Good choice and worth whatever best price you can find.
Bill
Yes the EMS HW50C
does come complete with the remote read-out.
http://www.dyersonline.com/
http://www.dyersonline.com/electrical/power-protection/surge-guards.html
Another Vote for Dyer's!
Their located a few miles from my house but they don't sell (out of their warehouse) to the locals. We have to order it online like everyone else but I sure would love to save myself the shipping cost and just pick it up.
Dyer's has to have a really low price for us to purchase from them, we can sometimes get a better deal outside AZ since there's no sales tax. Shop around.
Just ordered one from DYERS RV Online. $309.98 free freight to my broker in Portal, North Dakota. Happy with the low price. Can hardly wait to get it and install it in the coach.
Any one have opinions on the wiring options?
It can be wired just between the shore power(to protect from shore power) or can be wired between shore power and the generator. I was thinking the generator runs clean enough power and wouldn't need it. Just wonder how some of any other high end coaches are wired for this type of protector.
There are two schools of thought on where to put the hardwired EMS in a rig: on the shore power input to the generator / shore power change over switch or on the output of the change over switch. Cases can be made for both and neither is wrong. I put mine on the shore power input to the switch. Here’s why:
If you get a spike or, as more lightly a “lightening hit” on the shore power the EMS will protect the change over switch and the co/ switch will still allow you to use the generator and even possibly still have shore power if the bypass relay in the EMS isn’t fried. Also you don’t have to replace the changeover switch due to lightening damage.
If you lose the change over switch the generator is useless until you somehow replace or bypass the c/o switch. I’d like to still have generator power at night in the middle of or after an electrical storm if the lighting took out the EMS until I could deal with the EMS.
IMO, the odds of a quality Onan genset running wild is actually less, IMO, than a lighting strike in a campground. But, again, that's just how I do it and why I do it this way. My version served me well after a particular event.
On edit I'll add: The likelihood of lightening related damage in a campground is increased significantly due to there being more electrical wires in the ground per square meter / yard then at a typical location; all those pedestals really close together. All those wires are like big collectors of energy when a lightening bolt hits the ground or a tree in addition to a power pole. They can just transfer all that energy to the power panels and then right into your rig even if everything is properly grounded. Again, that's why I recommend protecting the c/o switch and not worry as much about the generator going haywire. Just my opinion but its based on many years in the electrical world.
Bill
-- Edited by Bill and Linda on Sunday 2nd of February 2014 02:32:15 PM
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/manuals/HW50C.pdf
http://www.rvcruzer.com/electrical/chapter13.php
Found this info on another RV site>>>>>>>>>>>>The EMS is installed between the post and the breaker panel. With a gen set you should install the EMS before the transfer switch. That way both will be protected. Here's a link to the instructions. http://www.viprv.com/ems/HW50COperation_InstallPDF.pdf
As a part time camper I have been doing the following (see below) to protect my TT but I hope to purchase the Progressive portable 30 or 50 amp unit when we hit the road full-time.
I always check the pedestal before we hook up, I have a tool to plug up that tells me if the ground is good and the receptacle is wired properly. Inside the trailer I have a digital (Onan Unit) voltage meter that lets me know if the voltage drops or surges. I built my own surge protector using three Heavy duty MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) that are installed in the trailer plug. The MOVs will protect us from a 400 Volt surge/spike and they are easy to replace and cheap too, I bought 50+ at an electrical supply house for around $20.00.
-- Edited by azrving on Saturday 1st of February 2014 09:24:56 PM
Thanks for all the input.
50 amp cord that goes to the park pedestal, receptacle on the rv side, EMS, then the wire that goes to the transfer switch. Everything but the cord and plug in is protected from high voltage and high amperage.