Remove Electric Drum Brakes & Install Hydraulic Disc Brakes
mododge5500 said
12:38 AM Sep 14, 2013
I have to replace the axles and brakes on a TT trailer and am thinking of changing to disc brakes. This will require a electric/hydraulic actuator to be installed on the trailer as well as running hydraulic brake lines from the actuator to each of the 4 wheels. I know that a lot of the 5er's are running hydraulic disc brakes and I was wondering if they are using their factory installed electric brake actuators to activate their brakes or if they had to install a different type of controller in their tow trucks. I know that the disc brakes are better and I can do the installation work myself, however, I would like to hear from a few people that have these type systems and any problems they have had with them.
igotjam said
02:02 AM Sep 14, 2013
Its a big job. Actuator installed on your trailer, running hydraulic lines to each wheel etc. Most systems today are good. The only problem with mine was the Ford Integrated Brake Controller (in an 08) would not run mine. I had to instal an aftermarket controller in my truck.
Bill and Linda said
11:48 PM Sep 14, 2013
Disc brakes – electric over hydraulic as they are sometimes known - are a major improvement over “standard” drum brakes and well worth the investment in most cases.I personally think this is safety upgrade #1 or #2 at the very least.It is not a trivial job but not all that big a deal either.But it is not without expense.
Most of the integrated controllers, i.e. from the factory, like the Ford’s and others, will not properly control the electrical control system for the hydraulic brakes.It has to do with electrical resistance of the controller which is less than that of the magnets in the old style drum brakes. I.e. they don’t work correctly and if yours does it could still be marginal as to reliability.It depends.
There are two solutions to this controller issue: Either install an after-market controller – may of which are actually superior to the factory units in this application – or put in an adapter which makes the factory controller “think” the electrical resistance is “OK” in so many words.I prefer the former for a number of performance reasons.
Any competent shop who can install the hydraulic brakes should know all about the things necessary to make them work properly with either an after-market controller or the factory controller and would be a source of info if you DIY.
In a nutshell, the disc brakes are far superior and much safer. Had ‘em for years; would never go back to the drum brakes. I've had zero issues with mine over a lot of miles.
Bill
Terry and Jo said
03:29 AM Sep 15, 2013
To add to Bill's comment, some of the newer trucks have new systems for their integrated brake controllers. With them, one goes into a "menu" of sorts and chooses the type of brake system that the trailer brakes use. Those that have them say it is pretty simple. Our 2008 does not have that menu feature, so we had to put on what is called a HBA-CAM to make the brakes work right.
If one were buying a new truck, it would be advisable to look into that "menu" system to see if the trucks were equipped with it. On the other hand, a lot of folks prefer to use a separate controller anyway.
Terry
mododge5500 said
07:24 PM Sep 16, 2013
Thank you for the info. I did check through the menu selections on my factory 2012 Dodge 5500 and it does have a selection for EOH . THis is the one I would select when towing the electric over hydraulic brakes on the trailer. I am now in the process of getting a list of all necessary parts and their prices to do the upgrade. While i am at it I am going to install the Ridewell Air Suspension system to improve the ride. Thanks again for the tips and i will let you all know how it goes.
Bill and Linda said
12:00 AM Sep 17, 2013
mododge5500 wrote:
Thank you for the info. I did check through the menu selections on my factory 2012 Dodge 5500 and it does have a selection for EOH . THis is the one I would select when towing the electric over hydraulic brakes on the trailer. I am now in the process of getting a list of all necessary parts and their prices to do the upgrade. While i am at it I am going to install the Ridewell Air Suspension system to improve the ride. Thanks again for the tips and i will let you all know how it goes.
John:
Thanks for the feedback on the 2012 Dodge.I wasn’t sure what year you had and you confirm what I thought, that Dodge had taken care of that issue.
Very curious about the “new” Dodges and how they are going to do with the new towing numbers.
Good luck with you project.I am certain you will notice the difference the first time you go to stop with the disc brakes. Actually, the first time you do a pull test and the trailer and truck don't move.
BTW, also curious what brand of disc brake you select: Kodiak or Dexter.Both have their advantages.Both are good products.
Bill
mododge5500 said
01:00 AM Sep 17, 2013
Bill,
I am going with tandem 8K Dexter Oil Bath Axles, Hydraulic disc brake, Dexter brake actuator, the Ridewell Air suspension, 17.5 All Spec HD Aluminum rims, and 16 ply H-902 tires. I will be towing with my 2012 Dodge 5500 Larimie,6.7 Cummins Diesel,CC,4WD, 6 sp. Auto, 4:88 LS rear, 198"WB, Knapheide 11' Utility Body, Industrial Weight dist. Hitch. I have been towing commercial 20K flatbed trailers with this truck and only negative is the 7.5 MPG when towing real heavy (30K+ gross)loads.
Murray
Bill and Linda said
01:19 AM Sep 17, 2013
mododge5500 wrote:
Bill, I am going with tandem 8K Dexter Oil Bath Axles, Hydraulic disc brake, Dexter brake actuator, the Ridewell Air suspension, 17.5 All Spec HD Aluminum rims, and 16 ply H-902 tires. I will be towing with my 2012 Dodge 5500 Larimie,6.7 Cummins Diesel,CC,4WD, 6 sp. Auto, 4:88 LS rear, 198"WB, Knapheide 11' Utility Body, Industrial Weight dist. Hitch. I have been towing commercial 20K flatbed trailers with this truck and only negative is the 7.5 MPG when towing real heavy (30K+ gross)loads.
Murray
Thanks much.Very nice set up and selections.Well, with a 4.88 rear end that would be expected as to MPG’s.Glad that is working well for you.Depending on the next rig I will be looking at the Dodge setup.It will be hard to leave the Allison / Duramax as it has been totally bullet proof for us in the last two trucks and the 3.76 rear end does give much improved MPG’s and still lots of torque to the rear wheels.11+ towing is not unusual at all for us and we're not that far from 30K. But yours is a 5500 so that’s the deal to get that badge on the side in most cases. But I am keeping an eye on the new Dodge’s and appreciate the reports. Good luck with your project.
Hang around the forum. Good to have people with on-the-road experience who contribute and inform us all.
Bill
Bill and Linda said
10:34 AM Sep 17, 2013
Murray:
Yea, I’ve always wanted a Duramax in my Suburban.As you will recall, they had the 4 cylinder Duramax ready to go and be implemented in the 1500 series trucks. But it was shelved back when all the money troubles started.It is still on the shelf but I doubt it will see production.Due to the quite nature of that engine it would make a good fit in the Denali / Suburban / 1500 series lineup.Probably not cost justifiable, but that is another story.
Now, if you, or your wife, really want to have some fun, there is a company installing Duramaxs in the Suburban series.According to the reports and tests they were able to get everything to work, including all the warning lights; a major accomplishment to get all that stuff to fit in the dog house of a suburban, etc.I can’t recall what they did about the transmission.
-- Edited by Bill and Linda on Tuesday 17th of September 2013 10:51:20 AM
mododge5500 said
03:30 PM Sep 17, 2013
Bill,
I have had the Dodge Cummins Diesel trucks since the first year they came out. Back then the engine was only 145HP. I have had 4 Dodges in that period. A little over a year ago I moved up to the 5500 from a Dodge 2003 3500 as the larger 20K trailer was just more than I felt good about towing with the 3500. My old one had a 3:73 rear and 6 sp. manual with the HO Diesel. It was a great tow truck and I never had a problem with it or any of my Dodges. I have friends with the Duramax-Allison and they like them and have had good luck with them also. I just like the design/torque of the straight 6 Cummins and the gigantic brakes on the Dodge 5500. The long wheelbase also helps for towing TT's. I don't think you would go wrong with either one. My wife loves her GMC Denali and is still waiting for them to put a Duramax in one!
Murray
mododge5500 said
11:55 PM Sep 17, 2013
Bill,
As luck would have it we just got the GMC brochure in the mail for new models in the mail today. Still no diesel in the Yucon Denali XL The wife wants a new one anyway! I don't know how much longer I can use that excuse.
Murray
It's not how much you can tow, it's how much you can stop!
I have to replace the axles and brakes on a TT trailer and am thinking of changing to disc brakes. This will require a electric/hydraulic actuator to be installed on the trailer as well as running hydraulic brake lines from the actuator to each of the 4 wheels. I know that a lot of the 5er's are running hydraulic disc brakes and I was wondering if they are using their factory installed electric brake actuators to activate their brakes or if they had to install a different type of controller in their tow trucks. I know that the disc brakes are better and I can do the installation work myself, however, I would like to hear from a few people that have these type systems and any problems they have had with them.
Disc brakes – electric over hydraulic as they are sometimes known - are a major improvement over “standard” drum brakes and well worth the investment in most cases. I personally think this is safety upgrade #1 or #2 at the very least. It is not a trivial job but not all that big a deal either. But it is not without expense.
Most of the integrated controllers, i.e. from the factory, like the Ford’s and others, will not properly control the electrical control system for the hydraulic brakes. It has to do with electrical resistance of the controller which is less than that of the magnets in the old style drum brakes. I.e. they don’t work correctly and if yours does it could still be marginal as to reliability. It depends.
There are two solutions to this controller issue: Either install an after-market controller – may of which are actually superior to the factory units in this application – or put in an adapter which makes the factory controller “think” the electrical resistance is “OK” in so many words. I prefer the former for a number of performance reasons.
Any competent shop who can install the hydraulic brakes should know all about the things necessary to make them work properly with either an after-market controller or the factory controller and would be a source of info if you DIY.
In a nutshell, the disc brakes are far superior and much safer. Had ‘em for years; would never go back to the drum brakes. I've had zero issues with mine over a lot of miles.
Bill
To add to Bill's comment, some of the newer trucks have new systems for their integrated brake controllers. With them, one goes into a "menu" of sorts and chooses the type of brake system that the trailer brakes use. Those that have them say it is pretty simple. Our 2008 does not have that menu feature, so we had to put on what is called a HBA-CAM to make the brakes work right.
If one were buying a new truck, it would be advisable to look into that "menu" system to see if the trucks were equipped with it. On the other hand, a lot of folks prefer to use a separate controller anyway.
Terry
John:
Thanks for the feedback on the 2012 Dodge. I wasn’t sure what year you had and you confirm what I thought, that Dodge had taken care of that issue.
Very curious about the “new” Dodges and how they are going to do with the new towing numbers.
Good luck with you project. I am certain you will notice the difference the first time you go to stop with the disc brakes. Actually, the first time you do a pull test and the trailer and truck don't move.
BTW, also curious what brand of disc brake you select: Kodiak or Dexter. Both have their advantages. Both are good products.
Bill
I am going with tandem 8K Dexter Oil Bath Axles, Hydraulic disc brake, Dexter brake actuator, the Ridewell Air suspension, 17.5 All Spec HD Aluminum rims, and 16 ply H-902 tires. I will be towing with my 2012 Dodge 5500 Larimie,6.7 Cummins Diesel,CC,4WD, 6 sp. Auto, 4:88 LS rear, 198"WB, Knapheide 11' Utility Body, Industrial Weight dist. Hitch. I have been towing commercial 20K flatbed trailers with this truck and only negative is the 7.5 MPG when towing real heavy (30K+ gross)loads.
Murray
Thanks much. Very nice set up and selections. Well, with a 4.88 rear end that would be expected as to MPG’s. Glad that is working well for you. Depending on the next rig I will be looking at the Dodge setup. It will be hard to leave the Allison / Duramax as it has been totally bullet proof for us in the last two trucks and the 3.76 rear end does give much improved MPG’s and still lots of torque to the rear wheels. 11+ towing is not unusual at all for us and we're not that far from 30K. But yours is a 5500 so that’s the deal to get that badge on the side in most cases. But I am keeping an eye on the new Dodge’s and appreciate the reports. Good luck with your project.
Hang around the forum. Good to have people with on-the-road experience who contribute and inform us all.
Bill
Murray:
Yea, I’ve always wanted a Duramax in my Suburban. As you will recall, they had the 4 cylinder Duramax ready to go and be implemented in the 1500 series trucks. But it was shelved back when all the money troubles started. It is still on the shelf but I doubt it will see production. Due to the quite nature of that engine it would make a good fit in the Denali / Suburban / 1500 series lineup. Probably not cost justifiable, but that is another story.
Now, if you, or your wife, really want to have some fun, there is a company installing Duramaxs in the Suburban series. According to the reports and tests they were able to get everything to work, including all the warning lights; a major accomplishment to get all that stuff to fit in the dog house of a suburban, etc. I can’t recall what they did about the transmission.
All just good fun
Bill
On edit, yep, they use the Allison –
http://duramaxsuburbans.com/
-- Edited by Bill and Linda on Tuesday 17th of September 2013 10:51:20 AM
I have had the Dodge Cummins Diesel trucks since the first year they came out. Back then the engine was only 145HP. I have had 4 Dodges in that period. A little over a year ago I moved up to the 5500 from a Dodge 2003 3500 as the larger 20K trailer was just more than I felt good about towing with the 3500. My old one had a 3:73 rear and 6 sp. manual with the HO Diesel. It was a great tow truck and I never had a problem with it or any of my Dodges. I have friends with the Duramax-Allison and they like them and have had good luck with them also. I just like the design/torque of the straight 6 Cummins and the gigantic brakes on the Dodge 5500. The long wheelbase also helps for towing TT's. I don't think you would go wrong with either one. My wife loves her GMC Denali and is still waiting for them to put a Duramax in one!
Murray
As luck would have it we just got the GMC brochure in the mail for new models in the mail today. Still no diesel in the Yucon Denali XL The wife wants a new one anyway! I don't know how much longer I can use that excuse.
Murray
It's not how much you can tow, it's how much you can stop!