Here is something you might not have thought about.
We have a Honda EU3000IS generator that runs on gasoline. When we first started using it on vacations to Colorado, we found that the increase in elevation caused the gas engine to run richer on fuel, thus leading to early fouling of the spark plug. With that experience, I made sure to keep extra spark plugs around, plus the tools needed to be able to change the plugs. We were running the generator roughly three hours in the morning and three hours in the evening, and the plug would last about 3 days before failing to start.
When we researched for our fifth wheel, we considered having an Onan LP generator added to our options. One advantage of the Onan's that we looked at was that they had a small lever at the carburetor that would allow one to adjust for altitude. That looked promising to me.
Then, I got to thinking about the propane use PLUS the cost of the Onan generator and decided that I could buy a lot of gasoline and spark plugs for the extra cost it would be for the Onan. We did have our fifth wheel equipped for generator prep, just in case we change our minds later.
We then noticed from another owner of a similar fifth wheel that they had added a socket to the front of their fifth wheel (under the overhang) into which they could plug a generator that was either on the ground or in the bed of their truck. I'm looking into doing that myself, but will put in a socket that would allow a 50 amp plug to be used instead of the normal generator socket.
We aren't traveling full-time yet, but we are also considering the purchase of a second Honda EU3000IS and a parallel kit to allow the two of them to work together, giving us close to 46 amps of power. Using only one gives one about 23 amps, which is enough if one is not running two air conditioners.
Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Tuesday 23rd of April 2013 06:36:40 PM
RN on the road said
06:59 PM Apr 23, 2013
We're getting close to placing our order for our first 5th wheel. We've had a class c motorhome with a gas generator and it seemed to be economical to run but we only did a couple of weeks at a time and usually hooked to land power. Our new plan is to be full timers (and some boondocking)LP and we have heard a few negatives on using a LP generator in the 5th wheel. Some say unless you hooked up to power, you'll burn through your LP in no time. Is a gas generator in the tow vehicle really that much more economical.....gas vs LP/hour? Would really like to hear real life experience or if there is some other combination? Thanks
Linda/Patrick
Lucky Mike said
09:35 PM Apr 23, 2013
I have an LP genny in my coach and only use it for a quick a/c cool down or cooking when needed.......I carry a small 2000 watt quite generator for boondocking to recharge batteries and such and also have solar with 6 batteries onboard.
fuel wise the lp generator consumes alot more than the small unit considering how much it is used........it is also alot easier to stop at the gas station and pick up a couple gallons of gas for my needs than it is to pull a bottle or move the coach to a propane filling station
I guess it will depend on how much Dry camping/boondocking you are going to do and how much power you are using......
I myself like the little unit it also has 12 volt jumper leads on it that have made it nice for starting cars!!
Bill and Linda said
03:08 PM Apr 24, 2013
RN on the road wrote:
We're getting close to placing our order for our first 5th wheel. We've had a class c motorhome with a gas generator and it seemed to be economical to run but we only did a couple of weeks at a time and usually hooked to land power. Our new plan is to be full timers (and some boondocking)LP and we have heard a few negatives on using a LP generator in the 5th wheel. Some say unless you hooked up to power, you'll burn through your LP in no time. Is a gas generator in the tow vehicle really that much more economical.....gas vs LP/hour? Would really like to hear real life experience or if there is some other combination? Thanks
Linda/Patrick
As Mike said, in so many words, “it depends” and this “depends” comment is based on a 5th wheel, not a motorhome.Here is our real world perspective and many years of experience you asked for:
The “big” installed LP generator (like a 5,500 watt Onan / Cummins) has several advantages as pertains to you not having to carry another source of fuel – gas.LP generators also don’t have any issues with not being used and the fuel going bad – or stale.It can sit for a long time and will start up right away without the fuel system “gumming up” as it can with gas. (Yes, you can add a stabilizing additive to the fuel – but you have to do that and can still have an issue.YMMV)LP installed generators can run almost anything in the coach including both AC units which we have found important in several situations in addition to boondocking applications.It gets hot, even in Alaska.:)
LP generators – relatively speaking – use more fuel because they are much bigger.More power = more fuel.They burn more than an equal size gas unit but not that much more in our experience.
We’ve used the Onan LP at all altitudes up to 8,000+ feet without having to make any carburetor adjustments due to altitude.It just works and starts every time.In our experience gas will not be as forgiving.
The smaller generators – gas – are certainly less expensive and weigh less.But in most cases they obviously don’t have the same capacity as the larger installed units and can’t be started from inside the coach. (Especially nice feature in the morning)We boondock and also have enough solar / battery capacity to allow us the best of both worlds along with the big LP.Lots of power and charging when we need / want it, battery / solar for some of the time and full AC / microwave, etc. capability especially when on the road, the coach is hot and we want to cool it down, cook and enjoy the time before the weather cools off and we go over to batteries for the late evening.Then a quick charge of the batteries in the morning from the genny, along with making breakfast, and we’re good for the next day.
I recommend the LP generator IF you want a full(er) power unit to meet the criteria we wanted above.If not, a little “putter” may do the job for you.“It depends” Bill
Jack Mayer said
05:18 PM Apr 24, 2013
Our experience is pretty much in line with Bill's. I could have put anything on our latest coach, and (again) considered all alternatives, including diesel on our truck, feeding off the truck tanks.
Considering our large solar system we opted to keep the LP genset for the reasons Bill stated. And we have owned a Honda 2000, so we are familiar with the benefits of it.
So it is somewhat going to depend on what "else" you have available to you....and how much you intend to use it. We DO carry extra propane with us - as much for heating convenience as for the genset.
Bill and Linda said
06:57 PM Apr 24, 2013
Linda and Patrick:
One more brief real world perspective FWIW:Having the large generator also enabled us to boondock, etc. as described in my previous post quite well with batteries only and no solar.We added the solar and that is a big deal as to some savings on fuel.However, you will never repay the cost of solar – solar just makes it a lot more convenient and flexible.
My point is, with the larger LP generator and a somewhat larger battery bank we did quite well even without solar for a number of years including boondocking into Alaska, etc.Bill
RN on the road said
06:49 PM May 1, 2013
Really appreciate all the info. As I said earlier, we plan on doing both boondocking and resort sites. I guess the mix will depend on where we're going. We do plan on having solar panels as well, so I would appreciate any tips in that area as well. Thanks again for the help. We,re costing out the unit now and hope to order in the next 45-60 days. Patrick/Linda
Bill and Linda said
09:00 PM May 1, 2013
RN on the road wrote:
Really appreciate all the info. As I said earlier, we plan on doing both boondocking and resort sites. I guess the mix will depend on where we're going. We do plan on having solar panels as well, so I would appreciate any tips in that area as well. Thanks again for the help. We,re costing out the unit now and hope to order in the next 45-60 days. Patrick/Linda
Linda:
Here is a excellent overview on solar from Jack Mayer:
Jack’s write up is excellent and he can provide a lot of expert advice.I completely rebuilt my 12volt system and installed 400 watts of solar as well. Jack’s is a bit larger - so was his budget. {Grin} So along with others there is a lot of real world experience and perspective available here.
PM with questions or whatever works for you.We’re glad to help.
Bill
EggerMar said
05:48 AM May 3, 2013
We just purchased the truck and the rv....now we are looking into generators. We are looking at a hybrid Yamaha EF2000IS-H which can run on gas, propane or natural gas. These can be paralled as well. We considered a Honda EU3000IS but they can't be paralled. Only the 2000 series can.
I like the ideal of being able to run on propane even though the initial cost is slightly more. The unit is light enough (around 44 lbs) and quite enough (51-61 db at 1/4 load) and also small enough to fit in the back of the truck under the locked cover.
Terry and Jo said
06:51 AM May 3, 2013
The Honda EU3000IS can be paralleled from what I've been told. I'm not so sure about the 3000 Handi, but the full version Honda can. They would just have to order the parallel kit since very few dealers ever have the case where someone wants to buy two Hondas and the kit.
With two EU3000IS Hondas paralleled, you'd have about 46 amps, probably enough to run both air conditioners, if needed.
Now, with all that said, I will check further to see if newer models of the 3000 have changed.
Edit: Just checked on Honda's website on the page for the EU3000IS. Under the image of the generator at this page (see link below), it states: "The EU3000iS is a favorite for RV power. Connect two EU3000iS in parallel for additional power."
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Friday 3rd of May 2013 06:55:56 AM
Lucky Mike said
12:35 PM May 3, 2013
Weight wise Marilyn there not as bad as you think.......and you also will have to look into how much your going to use them, lifting in and out is normally not an everyday thing
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Friday 3rd of May 2013 12:36:11 PM
EggerMar said
07:07 PM May 3, 2013
Terry -
Thanks for that link...good information. Every dealer we've talked to said it couldn't be done.... Should have known better than to listen to salesmen.
Sounds like a great set up but I'm not sure we could physically handle the weight when pulling these in and out of the back of the truck. still something to consider as an option.
Thanks
Marilyn
Terry and Jo said
07:13 PM May 3, 2013
Marilyn,
If I remember right, the EU3000IS weighs about 150 lbs without fuel. However, although I've not tried it yat as we aren't traveling, I think ours will be able to sit in the back of the pickup bed and be below the level of the sides of the bed. Even if we buy a second one and parallel ours, it should still leave room for the pin box to go between them when hooking up. Plus, if they are in the pickup bed, they can be secured to the "tie-down" loops in the bed to help prevent theft.
I am also planning on adding a socket to the front of the fifth wheel so that I don't have to run an electric cord all the way back to the rear of the coach. In our case, we had "generator prep" put on our coach when we ordered it, so the wiring is already there from the rear to the front. Another DRV Suites owner had the factory install their socket in the front and under the nose. (See picture below to see the socket placed above and to the left of the front compartment door.)
I've been told that I can have a 4-conductor socket installed (50 amp) so that with the two Hondas paralleled, there would be the 46 amps going to the rig.
Now, considering the cost of buying two Hondas, perhaps one needs to consider one of the Onan generators. I've not priced all this yet, but the Onan may only be about $1000 or so more than buying two Hondas and a parallel kit. In our case, we already have one, so I only need one more and the kit.
Terry
Alie and Jims Carrilite said
01:47 PM May 4, 2013
Going on the socket install, I'm planing on install the socket for the genny somewhere on the pinbox. We have the genny prep also so I just need to run a cable from the pin to the box in the basement.
Terry and Jo said
07:21 PM May 4, 2013
Ruth,
While putting the generator on a slide out tray is a viable option, when you want to run it, you may want remove the generator and set it on the ground. That way, you can close the basement doors and help prevent getting exhaust fumes inside the coach's belly, and thus on up into the coach.
Does your coach have the rear hitch receiver? If it does, a "rack" can be placed back there for carrying the generator. Someone in either RV Dreams or SOITC had s similar system with their Honda EU3000IS. There generator is on wheels, so they can roll it up and down a ramp to the rack.
Terry
NWescapee said
09:21 PM May 4, 2013
Lots of good info in this thread. We're also in the decision making stage on this one as well. Currently we have the Yamaha 3000 which is enough to run one of our AC units when necessary. Since we'll both continue to work as we go on the road, we're thinking most of the time we'll be camped where we have electrical power except when we might stop a night enroute or take advantage of the free overnight parking some of the art shows offer for the duration of the show. And of course when we're on vacation but for the vacation times we really don't care whether we have electrical power or not.
Our original plan was to put the Yamaha in the truck and see how often we were using it before deciding to have an ONAN installed. Now that we have our truck home and we've measured, the generator is about 3 inches higher than the sides of the truck bed. We want to be able to buy a roll and lock Tonneau cover so when we're not towing and need the truck to load in and out of art shows we have our show stuff secured in the bed of the truck.
So now we're thinking we could load the generator in the basement of our DRV, in the slide out tray so that when we need to run it we could pull it out on the tray. Has anyone tried this? Any problems encountered?
NWescapee said
03:50 AM May 5, 2013
-Terry - yes we have the receiver hitch and a rack - we actually used the rack to carry the generator on our TT. Dale was hoping to avoid doing that again on this rig as it does add a couple of feet to the overall length, plus a large weight on the very back of the rig.
HighwayRanger said
08:14 PM May 5, 2013
Terry and Jo wrote:
Marilyn,
If I remember right, the EU3000IS weighs about 150 lbs without fuel. However, although I've not tried it yat as we aren't traveling, I think ours will be able to sit in the back of the pickup bed and be below the level of the sides of the bed. Even if we buy a second one and parallel ours, it should still leave room for the pin box to go between them when hooking up. Plus, if they are in the pickup bed, they can be secured to the "tie-down" loops in the bed to help prevent theft.
I am also planning on adding a socket to the front of the fifth wheel so that I don't have to run an electric cord all the way back to the rear of the coach. In our case, we had "generator prep" put on our coach when we ordered it, so the wiring is already there from the rear to the front. Another DRV Suites owner had the factory install their socket in the front and under the nose. (See picture below to see the socket placed above and to the left of the front compartment door.)
I've been told that I can have a 4-conductor socket installed (50 amp) so that with the two Hondas paralleled, there would be the 46 amps going to the rig.
Now, considering the cost of buying two Hondas, perhaps one needs to consider one of the Onan generators. I've not priced all this yet, but the Onan may only be about $1000 or so more than buying two Hondas and a parallel kit. In our case, we already have one, so I only need one more and the kit.
Terry
Why not just get one Honda Eu6500is?
HighwayRanger said
03:16 AM May 6, 2013
Why not just get a Honda Eu6500is and leave it in the truck?
Roy
Terry and Jo said
05:17 AM May 6, 2013
Roy,
Many of us don't really want the extra size "per unit" of the EU6500IS compared to the size of the EU3000IS units.
The EU6500IS weighs in at 260 lbs (dry weight) and measures 33.5" x 26.4" x 27.5" (L x W x H).
The EU3000IS weighs in at 134 lbs (dry weight) and measures 25.8" x 18.9" x 22.4" (L x W x H).
That makes the 3000 about 5 inches shorter, thus making it more likely to be able to have clearance for the nose of the fifth wheel. At 260 lbs, I don't know of very many couples that could lift the 6500 in and out of the bed of the truck.
It wasn't easy, but I have managed to lift the EU3000IS into our F250 by myself, although I had to "work it in" by rocking the legs up the tailgate that was fully lowered. Now, having said that, I'm not sure I could do that with our current F450. But, even at our "advanced age," I think the wife and I could lift the 3000 into the pickup.
Terry
EggerMar said
03:24 AM May 7, 2013
Looks like we are thinking of going with the EU3000IS Hondas.
WiseSales.com does free shipping and no sales tax. They quoted us $4178 out the door and are throwing the $250 parallel kit in for no charge. The EU2000IS was quoted at 2139 plus the cost of the parallel kit.
They are saying the two EU3000IS 's will give us enough power to run pretty much anything we want to run. They claim it will be a true 6000 watts / 50 amp
Is it possible to store AND run these generators in the space where a built in generator would go rather than lift them in and out at each location we boondock at? Of course we would leave the door open when running them
While they list the max at 3000 watts with 25 amps, the Honda will likely run mostly at the 2800 watts with the 23.3 amps most of the time. If you noticed the description on the Honda page, it stated that it would run an air conditioner that was 13,500 btu. When we lost electric some time back, we had no issues with running everything in our coach, but it was cool enough that we weren't running the air conditioners.
We are fortunate that our Mobile Suites has the Power Management System. That was an optional system that monitors the electrical usage and if the power demand gets too high, it cuts off some devices until the power level goes back down again.
I'm still pretty certain that two of the Hondas will work for us. I will still be cheaper than buying an Onan. When we were looking, even though higher elevations will cause the engine to run rich on fuel and foul the plugs, for the difference in prices, I can buy a LOT of spark plugs.
Terry
Lucky Mike said
04:34 PM May 7, 2013
running it in the back of the truck will amplify the noise from the generator....also you will have to run a ground from the truck to the earth or risk electric shock, as far as theft goes.....drill a hole and put an eyebolt with a cable to lock the generator.......that should keep an honest man from taking it.......but a good crook will take it fast no matter what you do!!!!
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Tuesday 7th of May 2013 04:48:19 PM
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Tuesday 7th of May 2013 04:50:28 PM
Bill and Linda said
08:44 PM May 7, 2013
EggerMar wrote:
Is it possible to store AND run these generators in the space where a built in generator would go rather than lift them in and out at each location we boondock at? Of course we would leave the door open when running them
Marilyn
I am not saying you cannot do this. However I point out you could have a cooling and / or an exhaust issues.Onan’s, and like kind generators, are designed to run in closed environments as pertains to not only cooling but proper exhaust handling.You can run into what is known as “thermal runaway” which is a fancy term for the unit sucking in its’ own heat as opposed to cooling air.Again, not saying this won’t work, but I am saying some units are designed to work properly enclosed and some are intended to be in the open.
Also at higher altitudes you will not be able to get the same output current ratings as at sea level.This may or may not matter.But when the genny cannot get enough air it can slow down, causing low voltage and potential damage to electrical equipment.It depends. YMMV.
NWescapee said
10:54 PM May 7, 2013
For those of you who carry the generator in the truck, do you leave it in the bed of the truck when it's running? I can't imagine moving ours very often, it's pretty heavy. Dale really doesn't want it on the back of the trailer, he wanted to use the receiver hitch for transporting our bicycles. If you store it in truck are you concerned about security?
Terry and Jo said
01:33 AM May 8, 2013
Ruth,
In the past, when we had the Ford F250, I would run one cable through the handle of the generator to the tie-down loop on each side of the pickup bed. I would put it closer to the bed on the driver's side so that I could reach the control and the plug from outside of the bed. On the other side, with a longer cable, I would also run the cable through the handles of the two gas cans.
With our F450, because it is considerable taller, I will likely put any generators at the rear of the pickup bed. Like Mike stated, it will keep the "honest" folks honest, but the really bad doods will find a way. One person stated that they had seen the case where a guy was watching TV with the generator running. Someone came up and poured liquid nitrogen on his chain/cable and then whacked it with a hammer, causing the chane to shatter. By the time the guy got out of his trailer, the bad guys were gone.
Here is something you might not have thought about.
We have a Honda EU3000IS generator that runs on gasoline. When we first started using it on vacations to Colorado, we found that the increase in elevation caused the gas engine to run richer on fuel, thus leading to early fouling of the spark plug. With that experience, I made sure to keep extra spark plugs around, plus the tools needed to be able to change the plugs. We were running the generator roughly three hours in the morning and three hours in the evening, and the plug would last about 3 days before failing to start.
When we researched for our fifth wheel, we considered having an Onan LP generator added to our options. One advantage of the Onan's that we looked at was that they had a small lever at the carburetor that would allow one to adjust for altitude. That looked promising to me.
Then, I got to thinking about the propane use PLUS the cost of the Onan generator and decided that I could buy a lot of gasoline and spark plugs for the extra cost it would be for the Onan. We did have our fifth wheel equipped for generator prep, just in case we change our minds later.
We then noticed from another owner of a similar fifth wheel that they had added a socket to the front of their fifth wheel (under the overhang) into which they could plug a generator that was either on the ground or in the bed of their truck. I'm looking into doing that myself, but will put in a socket that would allow a 50 amp plug to be used instead of the normal generator socket.
We aren't traveling full-time yet, but we are also considering the purchase of a second Honda EU3000IS and a parallel kit to allow the two of them to work together, giving us close to 46 amps of power. Using only one gives one about 23 amps, which is enough if one is not running two air conditioners.
Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Tuesday 23rd of April 2013 06:36:40 PM
We're getting close to placing our order for our first 5th wheel. We've had a class c motorhome with a gas generator and it seemed to be economical to run but we only did a couple of weeks at a time and usually hooked to land power. Our new plan is to be full timers (and some boondocking)LP and we have heard a few negatives on using a LP generator in the 5th wheel. Some say unless you hooked up to power, you'll burn through your LP in no time. Is a gas generator in the tow vehicle really that much more economical.....gas vs LP/hour? Would really like to hear real life experience or if there is some other combination? Thanks
Linda/Patrick
fuel wise the lp generator consumes alot more than the small unit considering how much it is used........it is also alot easier to stop at the gas station and pick up a couple gallons of gas for my needs than it is to pull a bottle or move the coach to a propane filling station
I guess it will depend on how much Dry camping/boondocking you are going to do and how much power you are using......
I myself like the little unit it also has 12 volt jumper leads on it that have made it nice for starting cars!!
As Mike said, in so many words, “it depends” and this “depends” comment is based on a 5th wheel, not a motorhome. Here is our real world perspective and many years of experience you asked for:
The “big” installed LP generator (like a 5,500 watt Onan / Cummins) has several advantages as pertains to you not having to carry another source of fuel – gas. LP generators also don’t have any issues with not being used and the fuel going bad – or stale. It can sit for a long time and will start up right away without the fuel system “gumming up” as it can with gas. (Yes, you can add a stabilizing additive to the fuel – but you have to do that and can still have an issue. YMMV) LP installed generators can run almost anything in the coach including both AC units which we have found important in several situations in addition to boondocking applications. It gets hot, even in Alaska. :)
LP generators – relatively speaking – use more fuel because they are much bigger. More power = more fuel. They burn more than an equal size gas unit but not that much more in our experience.
We’ve used the Onan LP at all altitudes up to 8,000+ feet without having to make any carburetor adjustments due to altitude. It just works and starts every time. In our experience gas will not be as forgiving.
The smaller generators – gas – are certainly less expensive and weigh less. But in most cases they obviously don’t have the same capacity as the larger installed units and can’t be started from inside the coach. (Especially nice feature in the morning) We boondock and also have enough solar / battery capacity to allow us the best of both worlds along with the big LP. Lots of power and charging when we need / want it, battery / solar for some of the time and full AC / microwave, etc. capability especially when on the road, the coach is hot and we want to cool it down, cook and enjoy the time before the weather cools off and we go over to batteries for the late evening. Then a quick charge of the batteries in the morning from the genny, along with making breakfast, and we’re good for the next day.
I recommend the LP generator IF you want a full(er) power unit to meet the criteria we wanted above. If not, a little “putter” may do the job for you. “It depends” Bill
Considering our large solar system we opted to keep the LP genset for the reasons Bill stated. And we have owned a Honda 2000, so we are familiar with the benefits of it.
So it is somewhat going to depend on what "else" you have available to you....and how much you intend to use it. We DO carry extra propane with us - as much for heating convenience as for the genset.
Linda and Patrick:
One more brief real world perspective FWIW: Having the large generator also enabled us to boondock, etc. as described in my previous post quite well with batteries only and no solar. We added the solar and that is a big deal as to some savings on fuel. However, you will never repay the cost of solar – solar just makes it a lot more convenient and flexible.
My point is, with the larger LP generator and a somewhat larger battery bank we did quite well even without solar for a number of years including boondocking into Alaska, etc. Bill
Linda:
Here is a excellent overview on solar from Jack Mayer:
http://www.jackdanmayer.com/Files/Presentation%20HDT%20RV%20Electrical%2010_17_2011.pdf
And the link to his Website treatise on solar:
http://www.jackdanmayer.com/rv_electrical_and_solar.htm
Jack’s write up is excellent and he can provide a lot of expert advice. I completely rebuilt my 12volt system and installed 400 watts of solar as well. Jack’s is a bit larger - so was his budget. {Grin} So along with others there is a lot of real world experience and perspective available here.
PM with questions or whatever works for you. We’re glad to help.
Bill
I like the ideal of being able to run on propane even though the initial cost is slightly more. The unit is light enough (around 44 lbs) and quite enough (51-61 db at 1/4 load) and also small enough to fit in the back of the truck under the locked cover.
The Honda EU3000IS can be paralleled from what I've been told. I'm not so sure about the 3000 Handi, but the full version Honda can. They would just have to order the parallel kit since very few dealers ever have the case where someone wants to buy two Hondas and the kit.
With two EU3000IS Hondas paralleled, you'd have about 46 amps, probably enough to run both air conditioners, if needed.
Now, with all that said, I will check further to see if newer models of the 3000 have changed.
Edit: Just checked on Honda's website on the page for the EU3000IS. Under the image of the generator at this page (see link below), it states: "The EU3000iS is a favorite for RV power. Connect two EU3000iS in parallel for additional power."
Honda EU3000IS page
Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Friday 3rd of May 2013 06:55:56 AM
Weight wise Marilyn there not as bad as you think.......and you also will have to look into how much your going to use them, lifting in and out is normally not an everyday thing
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Friday 3rd of May 2013 12:36:11 PM
Terry -
Thanks for that link...good information. Every dealer we've talked to said it couldn't be done.... Should have known better than to listen to salesmen.
Sounds like a great set up but I'm not sure we could physically handle the weight when pulling these in and out of the back of the truck. still something to consider as an option.
Thanks
Marilyn
Marilyn,
If I remember right, the EU3000IS weighs about 150 lbs without fuel. However, although I've not tried it yat as we aren't traveling, I think ours will be able to sit in the back of the pickup bed and be below the level of the sides of the bed. Even if we buy a second one and parallel ours, it should still leave room for the pin box to go between them when hooking up. Plus, if they are in the pickup bed, they can be secured to the "tie-down" loops in the bed to help prevent theft.
I am also planning on adding a socket to the front of the fifth wheel so that I don't have to run an electric cord all the way back to the rear of the coach. In our case, we had "generator prep" put on our coach when we ordered it, so the wiring is already there from the rear to the front. Another DRV Suites owner had the factory install their socket in the front and under the nose. (See picture below to see the socket placed above and to the left of the front compartment door.)
I've been told that I can have a 4-conductor socket installed (50 amp) so that with the two Hondas paralleled, there would be the 46 amps going to the rig.
Now, considering the cost of buying two Hondas, perhaps one needs to consider one of the Onan generators. I've not priced all this yet, but the Onan may only be about $1000 or so more than buying two Hondas and a parallel kit. In our case, we already have one, so I only need one more and the kit.
Terry
Ruth,
While putting the generator on a slide out tray is a viable option, when you want to run it, you may want remove the generator and set it on the ground. That way, you can close the basement doors and help prevent getting exhaust fumes inside the coach's belly, and thus on up into the coach.
Does your coach have the rear hitch receiver? If it does, a "rack" can be placed back there for carrying the generator. Someone in either RV Dreams or SOITC had s similar system with their Honda EU3000IS. There generator is on wheels, so they can roll it up and down a ramp to the rack.
Terry
Our original plan was to put the Yamaha in the truck and see how often we were using it before deciding to have an ONAN installed. Now that we have our truck home and we've measured, the generator is about 3 inches higher than the sides of the truck bed. We want to be able to buy a roll and lock Tonneau cover so when we're not towing and need the truck to load in and out of art shows we have our show stuff secured in the bed of the truck.
So now we're thinking we could load the generator in the basement of our DRV, in the slide out tray so that when we need to run it we could pull it out on the tray. Has anyone tried this? Any problems encountered?
Why not just get one Honda Eu6500is?
Roy
Roy,
Many of us don't really want the extra size "per unit" of the EU6500IS compared to the size of the EU3000IS units.
The EU6500IS weighs in at 260 lbs (dry weight) and measures 33.5" x 26.4" x 27.5" (L x W x H).
The EU3000IS weighs in at 134 lbs (dry weight) and measures 25.8" x 18.9" x 22.4" (L x W x H).
That makes the 3000 about 5 inches shorter, thus making it more likely to be able to have clearance for the nose of the fifth wheel. At 260 lbs, I don't know of very many couples that could lift the 6500 in and out of the bed of the truck.
It wasn't easy, but I have managed to lift the EU3000IS into our F250 by myself, although I had to "work it in" by rocking the legs up the tailgate that was fully lowered. Now, having said that, I'm not sure I could do that with our current F450. But, even at our "advanced age," I think the wife and I could lift the 3000 into the pickup.
Terry
WiseSales.com does free shipping and no sales tax. They quoted us $4178 out the door and are throwing the $250 parallel kit in for no charge. The EU2000IS was quoted at 2139 plus the cost of the parallel kit.
They are saying the two EU3000IS 's will give us enough power to run pretty much anything we want to run. They claim it will be a true 6000 watts / 50 amp
Is it possible to store AND run these generators in the space where a built in generator would go rather than lift them in and out at each location we boondock at? Of course we would leave the door open when running them
Marilyn
Marilyn,
Never trust salesmen.
From Honda's website:
"AC Output 120V 3000W max.(25A) 2800W rated (23.3A)"
While they list the max at 3000 watts with 25 amps, the Honda will likely run mostly at the 2800 watts with the 23.3 amps most of the time. If you noticed the description on the Honda page, it stated that it would run an air conditioner that was 13,500 btu. When we lost electric some time back, we had no issues with running everything in our coach, but it was cool enough that we weren't running the air conditioners.
We are fortunate that our Mobile Suites has the Power Management System. That was an optional system that monitors the electrical usage and if the power demand gets too high, it cuts off some devices until the power level goes back down again.
I'm still pretty certain that two of the Hondas will work for us. I will still be cheaper than buying an Onan. When we were looking, even though higher elevations will cause the engine to run rich on fuel and foul the plugs, for the difference in prices, I can buy a LOT of spark plugs.
Terry
running it in the back of the truck will amplify the noise from the generator....also you will have to run a ground from the truck to the earth or risk electric shock, as far as theft goes.....drill a hole and put an eyebolt with a cable to lock the generator.......that should keep an honest man from taking it.......but a good crook will take it fast no matter what you do!!!!
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Tuesday 7th of May 2013 04:48:19 PM
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Tuesday 7th of May 2013 04:50:28 PM
I am not saying you cannot do this. However I point out you could have a cooling and / or an exhaust issues. Onan’s, and like kind generators, are designed to run in closed environments as pertains to not only cooling but proper exhaust handling. You can run into what is known as “thermal runaway” which is a fancy term for the unit sucking in its’ own heat as opposed to cooling air. Again, not saying this won’t work, but I am saying some units are designed to work properly enclosed and some are intended to be in the open.
Also at higher altitudes you will not be able to get the same output current ratings as at sea level. This may or may not matter. But when the genny cannot get enough air it can slow down, causing low voltage and potential damage to electrical equipment. It depends. YMMV.
Ruth,
In the past, when we had the Ford F250, I would run one cable through the handle of the generator to the tie-down loop on each side of the pickup bed. I would put it closer to the bed on the driver's side so that I could reach the control and the plug from outside of the bed. On the other side, with a longer cable, I would also run the cable through the handles of the two gas cans.
With our F450, because it is considerable taller, I will likely put any generators at the rear of the pickup bed. Like Mike stated, it will keep the "honest" folks honest, but the really bad doods will find a way. One person stated that they had seen the case where a guy was watching TV with the generator running. Someone came up and poured liquid nitrogen on his chain/cable and then whacked it with a hammer, causing the chane to shatter. By the time the guy got out of his trailer, the bad guys were gone.
Terry