-- Edited by Howard on Monday 21st of January 2013 05:50:28 AM
Spider said
07:31 PM Jan 20, 2013
Hi,
I'm new here. I've never had a camper before (if you don't count the popup my
parents had when I was little. I'm 48, getting divorced, selling my house, and
until the house sells, I'm not going anywhere. I'm putting my stuff in storage,
and looking at campers. I'm fixing up an Explorer Sport Trac (1/2 bed pickup on
an SUV frame) to pull with.
I'm not sure where I want to live, but I think I'd like to explore the Pacific
Northwest to find a home. I've been living in the desert for 35 years and
I've finally found an opportunity to escape. I don't handle heat well. I
grew up in West Virginia and liked it there, but the person I've grown
into wouldn't be accepted well in that area. I'd like to keep out of cities,
but have one nearby for convenience. I'd like to be convenient to
weekender distance from water, maybe an ocean. I plan to learn
scuba diving.
So, I've been looking at campers. My truck limit is 4500lbs (vehicle)
6000 total. I'm looking at Colemans, Lances, Aspen Trails, Wagoneers
and the like. I'm planning to be alone for the most part, though I
might have a hanger-on for awhile. The handyman who is helping me
move may go to Oregon with me to start over, himself. We'll see.
So, I'm looking at campers designed for one or two people, but
not a family. I may live in it for an extended time.
I keep hearing things from dealers that make me think that I'm not
being told the whole truth. One will say "4 season" another will
say "they all are well insulated". One will say it has tank heaters,
another will say they can put them in. I'm not going fishing, here.
I'm going to live in it. I don't know anything about how one camper
may be better than another about keeping warm or cool. I don't
know the right questions to ask. Some people on Craigslist don't
seem to know the specs like wieght I need to know.
I've found it best to bring a guy with me when I shop for campers.
It seems that they tell men more. They keep patting me on the
shoulder and assuring me that they'll take care of me. For
someone whose rationale is "if the tools are cheaper than
the job, I'll do it myself" that's frustrating. I still don't understand
what hardware I'm going to need between the camper and the
truck. I bought a frame hitch receiver at a pull and pay, and it's
on, but I think I need a "self leveling" hitch, but couldn't get the
guy to explain that to me.
My soon-to-be-ex didn't like to travel. I'm looking forward to
getting out and seeing more of the world.
Thanks for listening.
Maria
Spider said
07:51 PM Jan 20, 2013
Thanks for the advice, Richard. I will follow it. I'm so novice I don't even
have the camper yet. My truck is an explorer, too, just modified to look
like a truck. I would have bought a camper for recreational reasons
decades ago, but not everybody wants to go camping. I got a
motorcycle instead.
rclvnv said
01:59 AM Jan 21, 2013
Hi, You are trying to accomplish is well worth doing. I say this as someone who has been RV'ing for most of the last 40 yrs, and is now full time. If you have the spirit to see this through, go for it. My wife and I wish we had done it sooner. However, I wish to offer you this advice:
First, never believe anything someone trying to sell you any type of RV or related equipment is telling you, unless or until you have checked it our yourself. Forums like this are the best place to start. Start with the tow vehicle. If it is rated to tow 4500 lbs or 6000lbs, or whatever, be sure what you get to tow falls within that range. That means "loaded", meaning your things,propane,etc.etc. Also, be sure the tow vehicle is in excellent condition. At best, towing will put a strain on its components, so start off with the best platform you can. Hitching is essental.You need a weight distributing hitch and sway control, period, no exception. How do I know this? Many years ago, I towed a 19 ft TT with a Ford Explorer. Remember TT's were much heavier then. I was told (by the dealer) that the vehicle could tow with no problem and that sway control was not needed. In a high wind situation the tail started wagging the dog so to speak, I lost control, and I rolled the tow vehicle and rig over on the freeway. Flattened the Explorer. Three semi-drivers who were behind me saw this start and stopped all the traffic in the lanes behind them. If they hadn't, I'd have been dead for sure. Actually CHP was amazed that I had only cuts and burises. Took a long time before I was able to tow anything again. To this day, I am shocked to see people towing without sway control. Last summer, we camped next to a guy towing a 31' TT without it. I told him my story, and he said the dealer told him he didn't need it. He assured me he was going to get it ASAP. I hope he did.
With respect to a trailer, again, if it will be your home,get within your limits the one that offers the most comfort. Based on my experience, an enclosed underbelly is better than not, for road hazard as well as insulation reasons. If you buy used, have the unit inspected thoroughly. If you don't know anyone qualified, look for a mobile RV repair service in you area, and pay them to check it over. If you buy new, look for brands that offer a two yr. wnty. Give this as much thought as possible.
We are currently static in a large RV Resort-type park, with people from all over the US and Canada, in and out, constantly. I've met lots of singles and couples who are living in small trailers, and towing with vehicles of the capacity you mention. It is quite doable, within stated limits. I didn't tell you the above story to frighten you, quite the contrary. RV'ing is a wonderful experience. So wonderful, that you need to take all the care you can to make it so. Take your time, research,ask, ask again. I wish you the best.
Richard
Terry and Jo said
02:32 AM Jan 21, 2013
Welcome to the RV Dreams forums, Maria. You will that this is a good place to find folks that are friendly and helpful. There are some here that are familiar with the size of camper you have been referring to, so I'll let them clue you in more in line of what to look for in those brands and types.
I suggest that you find a Ford dealer, preferably one that sells a lot of trucks, and let them look at the "data plate," which is a sticker on the door post on the driver's side. With that information and what they can see on your Sporttrac, they can give you a better idea of how big of a trailer you can pull with it. Tell then that you want to know what it can do with reference to GCVW (Gross Combined Vehicular Weight). GCVW is the total weight of the truck with full tanks, expected cargo, and passengers and any pets, added to the total weight of the trailer with your stuff, full LP tanks.
With that in mind, weigh your truck with full fuel and passengers and "estimate" what cargo weight might be in it. With that number in mind, subtract it from the GCVW of the truck and you will have an idea of how heavy of a trailer you can tow. When looking at the trailers, make them give you the GVWR (Gross Vehicular Weight Rating) of the trailer in which you are interested. Then, find out what the "dry weight" of the trailer is so that you will know how much "stuff" you can put in the camper when towing.
Never trust entirely to what they say the "towing weight" is with your truck, as a truck can be under on the towing weight, but over weight on the GCVW.
Richard gave good advice. I would say that you would definitely want an equalizing hitch and an anti-sway bar. I am not really familiar with them, but I am assuming that they make them for trucks your size. Keep in mind that a Sporttrac is basically an SUV with a small pickup bed. I'm not sure that they really fall into the category of a full 1/2 ton truck. The reason I say that is because all that I've ever seen on the Explorer packages is what they call a Category II hitch receiver. If I remember right, the 1/2 ton trucks come with a Category III hitch receiver.
With the dealers that you deal with, make sure to look for salesmen that ask you questions about what you want to do with your trailer and how you will be using it. A salesman that is asking questions is more likely to be looking out for what you need, not necessarily what someone else thinks you need. Be firm with them and make them explain and show you what the equalizing hitches and anti-sway bars look like and how they work. The more you understand the "physics" of how those systems work, the better you can make choices.
If you are not comfortable with how they are treating you, just stop the conversation, walk to your vehicle and go find another dealer.
Now, I'm not sure that the trailers that you are looking at will be "heavy" enough with insulation for "four-season" use. Ask about insulation and R-ratings for the trailers. If you won't be in really cold places, you may be OK. However, keep in mind that the lighter the trailers are, the less likely they will be for four-season use.
Good luck with your research and planning.
Terry
Spider said
04:13 AM Jan 21, 2013
Thank you, Terry.
I'll check the door plate. The manual gave me the weights I'm to stick to,
but the door plate should be the right numbers for sure. I don't have
the jargon all down yet, but I'm getting there little by little.
Thanks for the advice on how to handle the dealers.
I have not studied up on hitches yet. This truck had a bumper hitch, and
I took it off and put on a hitch reciever (I hope that's the right word) that
heavily bolted to the frame of the body.
Speaking of, because of some weirdness between a mechanic and my
Dad, the damaged bumper of the truck was removed. Does anybody
know if it's legal to drive around without a bumper if the lights and
tags are OK? My Dad has backed into a lot of things with this truck.
Maria
53 Merc said
06:29 PM Jan 22, 2013
What you also need is a truck with a towing package, that will be required. If an auto transmission, a cooler is an absolute. Additional cooling for the engine will be needed. When you get your weight distribution sway control system, make absolutely sure you know how to set up and adjust for changing conditions. AYou cannot go cheap here. A weight distribution system is spec for the weight, not the length. AND, you WILL BE HEAVIER THAN YOU THINK. Be extra careful here. And, just because a vehicle is rated for a weight it does not mean it can do it long term. Towing is hard on a vehicle.
Lucky Mike said
06:46 PM Jan 22, 2013
I can say if you drive a vehicle in the northern New england states without a rear safety bumper and are stopped for it .....it will be towed trailer and all plus the ticket for a major safety issue.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Rear bumper can be bought online for 150.00 delivered.............a rear end collision with no rear bumper leaves you open for an explosion or a fire because your fuel tank is no longer protected
Spider said
07:58 PM Jan 23, 2013
53 Merc,
I must seem like such a dolt. I knew none of that. Thank you so much. It makes me wonder if
this "gift" of a truck is not so helpful after all. I will find out what it will take to get it altered
to suit towing. I may have to give up on it and find a vehicle that is better suited.
I've been looking at campers that are acutally half the weight the manual states it can
handle. I want to get as light of a camper as possible for what size I'll need. I've
noticed from looking at a buying guide, that the campers themselves are also
limited in what weight they are supposed to be able to carry as cargo. There is
so much to learn. I'm glad I'm asking questions now, before I've put any substantial
money into this.
Spider said
08:11 PM Jan 23, 2013
Lucky Mike...
Thank you. I would kiss you if I could.
I have been trying to get a bumper for that thing. I even bought one at
a pull and pay. And there was the dented one that was on there. When
my dad took the truck to a shop to fix some damage he had from backing
into a tree, it came back without either bumper (the one I bought was
in the bed) and he keeps giving me a hard time about trying to get one
to put on. It is apparently legal in this state to drive a puckup without
a bumper, so he's being difficult. I finally told him that I wanted a bumper
because the truck is ugly without one and an ugly vehicle is a ticket magnet
even if that isn't the reason for the ticket, and he backed down, but I still
have come up short two bumpers. I now have a logical argument to hand
him. I'm beginning to think that this gift isn't worth the problems it brings
with it.
PIEERE said
08:46 PM Jan 23, 2013
A person with a good welding shop could make a heavier duty one than what came with the Sport-Trac and probably mount a good Class # 3 hitch on it that would far safer than the original. Rving is not cheap either; there are ways of being frugal; but research what you are getting in to before you jump in. Study and research. Unexpected health issues; breakdowns; and the like can set you back real bad. My health issues if you inclined to read on these threads, have set my financial situation deep in the red. It will possibly take the 3 yrs. that I had been work camping or more to be comfortable just living with the basics. Not trying to burst your balloon; but study and research will help you along getting ready for this adventure-some lifestyle.
Spider said
11:05 PM Jan 23, 2013
Thank you Pieere. I'm hoping to start with a bit of a nestegg. I'm working on selling my house, and I can use the down payment to get me started. Then, if the sale I'm working on goes through, I'll have monthly payments for the house to get by on. I expect that RVing can be as little as paying for basic needs and gas (short term) or as expensive as living in a hotel. I will be looking into my path to see where I can park for free overnight, how I can refresh my water supply, and that sort of thing. My health is the best it's ever been, so I'm hoping that won't be an issue for quite awhile.
I guess I need to bring that truck to a shop that is experienced in towing vehicles and ask a bunch of questions.
One idea I had that may or may not be feasible was to travel to an area and hook up in a trailer park that rents by the month, and stay a month at a time in the places I'm looking at. I recently saw a small trailer park that looked like it was for exactly that. It had small slots and it had a changing occupancy that looked like mostly tradesman on temporary jobs.
Terry and Jo said
02:15 AM Jan 24, 2013
Maria,
Yes, one can get into some mobile home parks that have set aside, or have means to allow an RV to park in a regular mobile home space. The key part with the regular mobile home space is whether the sewer, water, and electric is convenient for an RV. The one thing with a problem with some places is whether the park has the correct electrical outlet for the RV. That, of course, will depend on what size of camper/RV you end up with.
We looked at one mobile home park, but it would have required us paying for the electrical hookup and fuse boxes that came after the meter. Where we are now is one that is set up for "transient" workers that have RV's. The transient workers we have here are mostly associated with the nearby horse race track. Our site includes water and sewer, leaving us to pay for electric and our satellite service. Our lot rent and utilities are a bit less than a monthly rate in the RV park next door, and we have the advantage of having a fenced yard for our two dogs.
Not all mobile home parks are set up for RV's so do your homework when you go into a new area.
Terry
Spider said
12:58 AM Feb 8, 2013
Thank you, Terry. That helps.
Sooooo... I gave up on the Sport Trac. It leaks transmission fluid, is so beat up, and has 104,000mi in part on a washboarded dirt road. I got the bumpers back and they don't fit over the hitch (it needed one that went lower). I'll just put the old bumper back on after I take off the hitch and it will still be Dad's.
I'm buying a Dodge Dakota V8 extended cab. That gives me 1000 more pounds and it's a much nicer vehicle. I'm having it shipped here by Carmax, and I'll probably get to look at in in a week or two. I don't have to buy it if I don't like it, and am only out the shipping fee of $300. This truck will allow me to get a slightly older camper which will save me some money on that end. This truck has a towing package, is an '05, has 20,000 miles, has a nice extras package, and looks good. (Oh, Goodie! I get seat warmers!!!)
I have my handyman here now, he knows a lot about cars, and has done towing with normal stuff all the way up to construction equipment. I think he can get me knowledgeably set up. He's helping me pack, move, get stuff in storage and clean. I'm giving him my car in payment, and he'll pay me what is left of its worth when he gets on with his life. We are helping each other start new lives. I love that. It's a Pontiac Vibe (referred to affectionately as my "soccer Mom car"). He's even going to travel with me until we get to California and then he'll stay there, and I'll go north. He's going to go to engineering school. His ambition is to live on a boat (RV on water?).
Removed by Howard - Double post. :)
-- Edited by Howard on Monday 21st of January 2013 05:50:28 AM
Hi,
I'm new here. I've never had a camper before (if you don't count the popup my
parents had when I was little. I'm 48, getting divorced, selling my house, and
until the house sells, I'm not going anywhere. I'm putting my stuff in storage,
and looking at campers. I'm fixing up an Explorer Sport Trac (1/2 bed pickup on
an SUV frame) to pull with.
I'm not sure where I want to live, but I think I'd like to explore the Pacific
Northwest to find a home. I've been living in the desert for 35 years and
I've finally found an opportunity to escape. I don't handle heat well. I
grew up in West Virginia and liked it there, but the person I've grown
into wouldn't be accepted well in that area. I'd like to keep out of cities,
but have one nearby for convenience. I'd like to be convenient to
weekender distance from water, maybe an ocean. I plan to learn
scuba diving.
So, I've been looking at campers. My truck limit is 4500lbs (vehicle)
6000 total. I'm looking at Colemans, Lances, Aspen Trails, Wagoneers
and the like. I'm planning to be alone for the most part, though I
might have a hanger-on for awhile. The handyman who is helping me
move may go to Oregon with me to start over, himself. We'll see.
So, I'm looking at campers designed for one or two people, but
not a family. I may live in it for an extended time.
I keep hearing things from dealers that make me think that I'm not
being told the whole truth. One will say "4 season" another will
say "they all are well insulated". One will say it has tank heaters,
another will say they can put them in. I'm not going fishing, here.
I'm going to live in it. I don't know anything about how one camper
may be better than another about keeping warm or cool. I don't
know the right questions to ask. Some people on Craigslist don't
seem to know the specs like wieght I need to know.
I've found it best to bring a guy with me when I shop for campers.
It seems that they tell men more. They keep patting me on the
shoulder and assuring me that they'll take care of me. For
someone whose rationale is "if the tools are cheaper than
the job, I'll do it myself" that's frustrating. I still don't understand
what hardware I'm going to need between the camper and the
truck. I bought a frame hitch receiver at a pull and pay, and it's
on, but I think I need a "self leveling" hitch, but couldn't get the
guy to explain that to me.
My soon-to-be-ex didn't like to travel. I'm looking forward to
getting out and seeing more of the world.
Thanks for listening.
Maria
Thanks for the advice, Richard. I will follow it. I'm so novice I don't even
have the camper yet. My truck is an explorer, too, just modified to look
like a truck. I would have bought a camper for recreational reasons
decades ago, but not everybody wants to go camping. I got a
motorcycle instead.
Hi, You are trying to accomplish is well worth doing. I say this as someone who has been RV'ing for most of the last 40 yrs, and is now full time. If you have the spirit to see this through, go for it. My wife and I wish we had done it sooner. However, I wish to offer you this advice:
First, never believe anything someone trying to sell you any type of RV or related equipment is telling you, unless or until you have checked it our yourself. Forums like this are the best place to start. Start with the tow vehicle. If it is rated to tow 4500 lbs or 6000lbs, or whatever, be sure what you get to tow falls within that range. That means "loaded", meaning your things,propane,etc.etc. Also, be sure the tow vehicle is in excellent condition. At best, towing will put a strain on its components, so start off with the best platform you can. Hitching is essental.You need a weight distributing hitch and sway control, period, no exception. How do I know this? Many years ago, I towed a 19 ft TT with a Ford Explorer. Remember TT's were much heavier then. I was told (by the dealer) that the vehicle could tow with no problem and that sway control was not needed. In a high wind situation the tail started wagging the dog so to speak, I lost control, and I rolled the tow vehicle and rig over on the freeway. Flattened the Explorer. Three semi-drivers who were behind me saw this start and stopped all the traffic in the lanes behind them. If they hadn't, I'd have been dead for sure. Actually CHP was amazed that I had only cuts and burises. Took a long time before I was able to tow anything again. To this day, I am shocked to see people towing without sway control. Last summer, we camped next to a guy towing a 31' TT without it. I told him my story, and he said the dealer told him he didn't need it. He assured me he was going to get it ASAP. I hope he did.
With respect to a trailer, again, if it will be your home,get within your limits the one that offers the most comfort. Based on my experience, an enclosed underbelly is better than not, for road hazard as well as insulation reasons. If you buy used, have the unit inspected thoroughly. If you don't know anyone qualified, look for a mobile RV repair service in you area, and pay them to check it over. If you buy new, look for brands that offer a two yr. wnty. Give this as much thought as possible.
We are currently static in a large RV Resort-type park, with people from all over the US and Canada, in and out, constantly. I've met lots of singles and couples who are living in small trailers, and towing with vehicles of the capacity you mention. It is quite doable, within stated limits. I didn't tell you the above story to frighten you, quite the contrary. RV'ing is a wonderful experience. So wonderful, that you need to take all the care you can to make it so. Take your time, research,ask, ask again. I wish you the best.
Richard
Welcome to the RV Dreams forums, Maria. You will that this is a good place to find folks that are friendly and helpful. There are some here that are familiar with the size of camper you have been referring to, so I'll let them clue you in more in line of what to look for in those brands and types.
I suggest that you find a Ford dealer, preferably one that sells a lot of trucks, and let them look at the "data plate," which is a sticker on the door post on the driver's side. With that information and what they can see on your Sporttrac, they can give you a better idea of how big of a trailer you can pull with it. Tell then that you want to know what it can do with reference to GCVW (Gross Combined Vehicular Weight). GCVW is the total weight of the truck with full tanks, expected cargo, and passengers and any pets, added to the total weight of the trailer with your stuff, full LP tanks.
With that in mind, weigh your truck with full fuel and passengers and "estimate" what cargo weight might be in it. With that number in mind, subtract it from the GCVW of the truck and you will have an idea of how heavy of a trailer you can tow. When looking at the trailers, make them give you the GVWR (Gross Vehicular Weight Rating) of the trailer in which you are interested. Then, find out what the "dry weight" of the trailer is so that you will know how much "stuff" you can put in the camper when towing.
Never trust entirely to what they say the "towing weight" is with your truck, as a truck can be under on the towing weight, but over weight on the GCVW.
Richard gave good advice. I would say that you would definitely want an equalizing hitch and an anti-sway bar. I am not really familiar with them, but I am assuming that they make them for trucks your size. Keep in mind that a Sporttrac is basically an SUV with a small pickup bed. I'm not sure that they really fall into the category of a full 1/2 ton truck. The reason I say that is because all that I've ever seen on the Explorer packages is what they call a Category II hitch receiver. If I remember right, the 1/2 ton trucks come with a Category III hitch receiver.
With the dealers that you deal with, make sure to look for salesmen that ask you questions about what you want to do with your trailer and how you will be using it. A salesman that is asking questions is more likely to be looking out for what you need, not necessarily what someone else thinks you need. Be firm with them and make them explain and show you what the equalizing hitches and anti-sway bars look like and how they work. The more you understand the "physics" of how those systems work, the better you can make choices.
If you are not comfortable with how they are treating you, just stop the conversation, walk to your vehicle and go find another dealer.
Now, I'm not sure that the trailers that you are looking at will be "heavy" enough with insulation for "four-season" use. Ask about insulation and R-ratings for the trailers. If you won't be in really cold places, you may be OK. However, keep in mind that the lighter the trailers are, the less likely they will be for four-season use.
Good luck with your research and planning.
Terry
Thank you, Terry.
I'll check the door plate. The manual gave me the weights I'm to stick to,
but the door plate should be the right numbers for sure. I don't have
the jargon all down yet, but I'm getting there little by little.
Thanks for the advice on how to handle the dealers.
I have not studied up on hitches yet. This truck had a bumper hitch, and
I took it off and put on a hitch reciever (I hope that's the right word) that
heavily bolted to the frame of the body.
Speaking of, because of some weirdness between a mechanic and my
Dad, the damaged bumper of the truck was removed. Does anybody
know if it's legal to drive around without a bumper if the lights and
tags are OK? My Dad has backed into a lot of things with this truck.
Maria
Rear bumper can be bought online for 150.00 delivered.............a rear end collision with no rear bumper leaves you open for an explosion or a fire because your fuel tank is no longer protected
53 Merc,
I must seem like such a dolt. I knew none of that. Thank you so much. It makes me wonder if
this "gift" of a truck is not so helpful after all. I will find out what it will take to get it altered
to suit towing. I may have to give up on it and find a vehicle that is better suited.
I've been looking at campers that are acutally half the weight the manual states it can
handle. I want to get as light of a camper as possible for what size I'll need. I've
noticed from looking at a buying guide, that the campers themselves are also
limited in what weight they are supposed to be able to carry as cargo. There is
so much to learn. I'm glad I'm asking questions now, before I've put any substantial
money into this.
Lucky Mike...
Thank you. I would kiss you if I could.
I have been trying to get a bumper for that thing. I even bought one at
a pull and pay. And there was the dented one that was on there. When
my dad took the truck to a shop to fix some damage he had from backing
into a tree, it came back without either bumper (the one I bought was
in the bed) and he keeps giving me a hard time about trying to get one
to put on. It is apparently legal in this state to drive a puckup without
a bumper, so he's being difficult. I finally told him that I wanted a bumper
because the truck is ugly without one and an ugly vehicle is a ticket magnet
even if that isn't the reason for the ticket, and he backed down, but I still
have come up short two bumpers. I now have a logical argument to hand
him. I'm beginning to think that this gift isn't worth the problems it brings
with it.
Not trying to burst your balloon; but study and research will help you along getting ready for this adventure-some lifestyle.
I guess I need to bring that truck to a shop that is experienced in towing vehicles and ask a bunch of questions.
One idea I had that may or may not be feasible was to travel to an area and hook up in a trailer park that rents by the month, and stay a month at a time in the places I'm looking at. I recently saw a small trailer park that looked like it was for exactly that. It had small slots and it had a changing occupancy that looked like mostly tradesman on temporary jobs.
Maria,
Yes, one can get into some mobile home parks that have set aside, or have means to allow an RV to park in a regular mobile home space. The key part with the regular mobile home space is whether the sewer, water, and electric is convenient for an RV. The one thing with a problem with some places is whether the park has the correct electrical outlet for the RV. That, of course, will depend on what size of camper/RV you end up with.
We looked at one mobile home park, but it would have required us paying for the electrical hookup and fuse boxes that came after the meter. Where we are now is one that is set up for "transient" workers that have RV's. The transient workers we have here are mostly associated with the nearby horse race track. Our site includes water and sewer, leaving us to pay for electric and our satellite service. Our lot rent and utilities are a bit less than a monthly rate in the RV park next door, and we have the advantage of having a fenced yard for our two dogs.
Not all mobile home parks are set up for RV's so do your homework when you go into a new area.
Terry
Sooooo... I gave up on the Sport Trac. It leaks transmission fluid, is so beat up, and has 104,000mi in part on a washboarded dirt road. I got the bumpers back and they don't fit over the hitch (it needed one that went lower). I'll just put the old bumper back on after I take off the hitch and it will still be Dad's.
I'm buying a Dodge Dakota V8 extended cab. That gives me 1000 more pounds and it's a much nicer vehicle. I'm having it shipped here by Carmax, and I'll probably get to look at in in a week or two. I don't have to buy it if I don't like it, and am only out the shipping fee of $300. This truck will allow me to get a slightly older camper which will save me some money on that end. This truck has a towing package, is an '05, has 20,000 miles, has a nice extras package, and looks good. (Oh, Goodie! I get seat warmers!!!)
I have my handyman here now, he knows a lot about cars, and has done towing with normal stuff all the way up to construction equipment. I think he can get me knowledgeably set up. He's helping me pack, move, get stuff in storage and clean. I'm giving him my car in payment, and he'll pay me what is left of its worth when he gets on with his life. We are helping each other start new lives. I love that. It's a Pontiac Vibe (referred to affectionately as my "soccer Mom car"). He's even going to travel with me until we get to California and then he'll stay there, and I'll go north. He's going to go to engineering school. His ambition is to live on a boat (RV on water?).
Maria