I am wondering if this option is worth the extra cost. If you have owned rigs with both which did you prefer? Is the upkeep easier on full paint? We hope to keep our rig for a long time so I want one that will look good for years of fulltiming.
Thanks, James
Trabuco said
07:18 PM Jul 15, 2012
Yes, IMO full body paint is worth the extra money. I have several friends with class c that have the decals, and all within approx. 5 years have started to peel and fade.
With that said you can have the decals replaced. When we were looking Keystone Montana's I asked about this very thing and the service manager said Keystone can supply a new set of decals (graphics) for $300 to $500. This has been a couple of years since the price quote. How much to remove and install I don't have a clue.
Bill and Linda said
09:20 PM Jul 15, 2012
Whether you choose full body paint or not, may I suggest the item you need to keep the outside looking good is a quality final coat of “clear-coat” whether full body paint or not.
Having this sealer on both the paint and the white Gelcoat sides has been of significant benefit – just like on a car – as to keeping it looking good and the paint and fiberglass looking “alive.”I would question the salesman about this finish. If the rig does have clear-coat acrylic it should be listed in the paint color placard present on many better quality RV’s.
My suggestion
Bill
GENECOP said
10:55 PM Jul 15, 2012
Full body paint well worth it IMO.......
James and Cindy said
02:44 AM Jul 16, 2012
Thanks for the advice on the clear coat. I hadn't thought about that. We are leaning toward full body paint, but wanted to hear others opinions.
Thanks again, James
Old Snipe said
02:57 AM Jul 16, 2012
I had a motorhome without full body paint, and despite washing and waxing regularly, after a few years the fiberglass yellowed and nothing worked to get it back to white.
I have another MH now with the full body paint and after five years, it still looks brand new. I still wash and wax regularly, but it is easier to keep clean.
I'm sure it will pay off on resale value, too someday, but we have no intention of selling it.
Best Regards!
Mallo said
06:51 PM Jul 22, 2012
Our fifth wheel is five years old and doesn't have paint. Yep the decal type graphics have issues and I can see a stop in my future to have the factory swap them out at some point.
That said I can buy a lot of diesel for the cost of full body paint.
It's all about what's important too you. If the price on the paint seems high or you don't see real value in it then I'd pass on paint.
If on the other hand the add on cost is minimal too you or it's important to have the right look then by all means it's what is great about options.
Mallo
Jack Mayer said
03:50 AM Jul 23, 2012
It costs a minimum of $8,000 for any manufacturer to put on full body paint. You will pay for it - someplace. But as Bill said - you can get clear and that will make a major difference in the look of the unit over time. And it makes it far easier to keep clean too. It just depends on how you feel about your unit, and also the price range you are in. Putting full body paint on a 45K unit is probably not justified for most people. Higher end units will have full body paint incorporated into the price.
kb0zke said
04:04 AM Aug 1, 2012
While we're on the subject of paint, why are the manufacturers all going to such dark colors on fiberglass bodies? I've been around homebuilt airplanes for many years, and many are using fiberglass for the skin. All are painted white, with only a little accent color. The reason is that white is the coolest (temperature) paint, and any darker color gets hotter, which damages the fiberglass.
If I were rich enough to consider a brand-new rig, I think I'd want it pretty much all white, with only a little accent color. Actually, I'd want it all white, but DW would insist on some other color as an accent.
Jack Mayer said
02:24 PM Aug 1, 2012
Manufacturers put on an RV what sells it the best. And more intense colors tend to sell better. It is as simple as that.
Personally, I prefer the softer browns. Seems more "natural" to me. According to my heat sensor there is about 8 degrees difference between the burgundy color and the white on my 2010 in 75* sun.
FastEagle said
09:55 PM Aug 2, 2012
I think you will find that adding full body paint to a unit that did not come from the factory with it will add a lot of extra weight. It's going to weight more than most people would think. So anyone serious about the upgrade should get a weight estimate before doing the painting.
FastEagle
Alie and Jims Carrilite said
11:19 PM Aug 2, 2012
A full body paint job shouldn't weigh more than 30-40 lbs when complete. A gallon of PPG 2 stage paint weighs about 8 pounds. The thinners/reducers weigh about another 2-3 lbs. Now after all the solvents evaporate out your mix when drying its such a small amount of weight. I would guess that Jack's new 5'er has about 2 1/2 gallons of mixed wet paint. Double that for primer and sealer. Remember that most of the primer gets sanded back. Any caulking is just being replaced so it doesn't added "NEW" weight .
Jack Mayer said
03:27 AM Aug 3, 2012
I have 6,000lbs carrying capacity AFTER the paint. So I'm not worried :)
I am wondering if this option is worth the extra cost. If you have owned rigs with both which did you prefer? Is the upkeep easier on full paint? We hope to keep our rig for a long time so I want one that will look good for years of fulltiming.
Thanks, James
With that said you can have the decals replaced. When we were looking Keystone Montana's I asked about this very thing and the service manager said Keystone can supply a new set of decals (graphics) for $300 to $500. This has been a couple of years since the price quote. How much to remove and install I don't have a clue.
Whether you choose full body paint or not, may I suggest the item you need to keep the outside looking good is a quality final coat of “clear-coat” whether full body paint or not.
Having this sealer on both the paint and the white Gelcoat sides has been of significant benefit – just like on a car – as to keeping it looking good and the paint and fiberglass looking “alive.” I would question the salesman about this finish. If the rig does have clear-coat acrylic it should be listed in the paint color placard present on many better quality RV’s.
My suggestion
Bill
Thanks for the advice on the clear coat. I hadn't thought about that. We are leaning toward full body paint, but wanted to hear others opinions.
Thanks again, James
I had a motorhome without full body paint, and despite washing and waxing regularly, after a few years the fiberglass yellowed and nothing worked to get it back to white.
I have another MH now with the full body paint and after five years, it still looks brand new. I still wash and wax regularly, but it is easier to keep clean.
I'm sure it will pay off on resale value, too someday, but we have no intention of selling it.
Best Regards!
Our fifth wheel is five years old and doesn't have paint. Yep the decal type graphics have issues and I can see a stop in my future to have the factory swap them out at some point.
That said I can buy a lot of diesel for the cost of full body paint.
It's all about what's important too you. If the price on the paint seems high or you don't see real value in it then I'd pass on paint.
If on the other hand the add on cost is minimal too you or it's important to have the right look then by all means it's what is great about options.
Mallo
If I were rich enough to consider a brand-new rig, I think I'd want it pretty much all white, with only a little accent color. Actually, I'd want it all white, but DW would insist on some other color as an accent.
Personally, I prefer the softer browns. Seems more "natural" to me. According to my heat sensor there is about 8 degrees difference between the burgundy color and the white on my 2010 in 75* sun.
I think you will find that adding full body paint to a unit that did not come from the factory with it will add a lot of extra weight. It's going to weight more than most people would think. So anyone serious about the upgrade should get a weight estimate before doing the painting.
FastEagle
A gallon of PPG 2 stage paint weighs about 8 pounds. The thinners/reducers weigh about another 2-3 lbs.
Now after all the solvents evaporate out your mix when drying its such a small amount of weight.
I would guess that Jack's new 5'er has about 2 1/2 gallons of mixed wet paint.
Double that for primer and sealer. Remember that most of the primer gets sanded back.
Any caulking is just being replaced so it doesn't added "NEW" weight .