My only comment is that I REALLY dislike sliding hitches. They are prone to not working well at all. Without exception, every single person I have talked to that have one either do not use them, or dislike them. (That said, I'm sure to hear from people that have them and love them.... )
I would look at full size beds. It will give you some additional storage room which you will likely need with the size unit you are looking at. My personal opinion, based on experience.
-- Edited by Jack Mayer on Monday 11th of June 2012 12:08:36 PM
Full Time Adventures said
05:09 PM Jun 11, 2012
Would like to get some feedback on a possible 5er TV combo we are thinking about. We understand there are a bunch of variables but given the basics we are trying to figure out if we are on the right track. Looking at a Crossroads Patriot CF335SS with the following weights. Dry Weight 9741, GVWR 12,380, Pin weight 1,980. We know these are all approximate weights. Our debate is gear ratio on the TV. We are looking at two options.
First TV is 3/4 ton GVWR 9,400 and is Diesel 3.73 gears SRW, 3,066 payload, Tow weight max of 15,800, and 24,500 GCWR.
The second TV is 3/4 ton GVWR 9,900 and is Diesel 3.31 or 3.55 gears SRW, 2,630 payload, Tow weight max of 14,000, and 23,500 GCWR.
We will be doing a quite of bit of traveling in the first few years and only want one vehicle. Mileage is somewhat of an issue when not towing. I will not be in a big hurry to get anywhere. Both tow vehicles are priced about the same and will be paid for prior to departure day for us. We understand about upgrading later and that won't be a problem in 10-15 years. On a side note looking at a 20klb sliding hitch because we want a crew cab with standard bed truck.
Thanks in advance for everyones help. You guys/gals are awesome.
Bill and Linda said
10:52 PM Jun 11, 2012
As Jack says, there will be some who like sliding hitches.But I don’t and a failure to operate properly can absolutely tear the truck and the RV up really bad. (Is a dealer trying to sell a used slider hitch to you?)The extra length of the full size (8 foot) bed is rather insignificant in terms of parking and actual maneuverability.It is just the better option for a lot of reasons including safety and flexibility.
Rear-end ratios are only are valid when comparing them considering the transmission gearing and tire sizes.For example, a vehicle with a 4.01 may actually have less towing capacity than a 3.76.It depends.While many of the manufactures tow numbers can be a bit misleading, use the truck specific numbers to determine the capability of the specific truck in question.Don’t use the marketing brochure or the rear axle ratio.As to solo mileage – that, IMO should not be in the decision process.Towing and capacity have to be the main issues in the decision process.Good and safe towing capabilities and good mileage are oxymorons; wish it were different.
Do some research on the forums as to specific vehicles.For example, some years were “good years” for diesel engines for some manufactures; other years, not so good.
Also consider what upgrades, like aux fuel tanks, might be desirable as you said you were going to travel and not just sit. Those require weight carrying capabilities and usually an 8 foot bed assuming an in-bed tank.
These are just some thoughts for your consideration.
Welcome to the life.
Bill
Terry and Jo said
02:00 AM Jun 12, 2012
As mentioned, don't go with information from brochures. They don't necessarily have the actual specifics for those trucks as to weight capacity. When matching a truck and trailer, always look at GCVW, not towing weights. Some units could be OK with towing weight but still be overweight.
As a rule of thumb, the rear axle ratio will determine some weight capacity but it mostly has an effect on fuel economy. A low number of ratio will actually be better on mileage and speed, but you don't seem worried about speed. The higher number gear ratio will handle more weight if using the same engine, and will be better suited for towing up hills and mountains.
Example: Our 2008 Ford F450 has the 4:88 rear axle ratio and is rated at 33,000 lbs of GCVW with the 6.4L diesel. If we had gotten a 2008 F450 with the 4:30 ratio, our GCVW would only be 29,000 lbs.
Since you didn't mention the brands/models of the trucks, I really recommend you get the information off of the data plate on the door or pillar and take it to a dealer to get actual weight capacities. I did that with our F450 to verify that it had the 4:88 rear axle rating.
Good luck with it all. And enjoy the camping/rv'ing.
Terry
Alie and Jims Carrilite said
02:23 AM Jun 12, 2012
The higher the gearing the better the pulling power will be. There are advantages to a long bed truck- ie: no sliding hitch to worry about, more room to carry "stuff", and a better ride. I have a quad cab Dodge with a pullrite superglide hitch. If you buy the right 5'er with a front design for short bed trucks, you won't need the slider hitch.
Full Time Adventures said
06:48 PM Jun 12, 2012
Thanks for all the input. Looks like the LWB truck will be the way to go. The question on the gearing is all based on 2 trucks I am looking at at. I didn't really want to start a war over Ford or Chevy. I have had both and when maintained properly they both served me just as well. We are looking at two 2012's. Both around $50,000 properly equipped. We are just trying to figure out which one. I do understand about the transmission gearing affecting what you get at the wheels. Is the Ford transmission that much stronger that it can turn a 3.31 rear end as well as the Chevy's turns its 3.73's? With 50 ft lb of torque difference I know it isn’t the motor.
Our intention is to get the 5er and truck in a year or so and have them paid off by Departure date. We are looking at the Crossroads because of the layout, weight, and price. (Yes we have been inside them.) We looked at older and heavier in higher quality but really want to stay away from anything more than 10K # to start. A secondary investment fund will mature anywhere from 10-15 years and it will buy a nice 1 ton dually and our final home outright. We spent 2 weeks in a tent on vacation so close quarters don’t bother us at all.
FastEagle said
09:34 PM Jun 12, 2012
About 50% of our RV travels have been traveled with our long time friends. Our rigs are within 500# (one way or the other) in GCWR. We both have 1 ton dually trucks. Our friends is 4X4. He has 3.73 gearing to our 4.10. In the hilly country I get better fuel economy than he does and I have to always lead because I have more pulling power than he does. In the flat country his fuel economy is a little better than mine at 65 MPH but at 62 MPH and below we are very equal. Both of us get the best fuel mileage at around 62 MPH using cruse control. OOPS, both trucks are diesel. Mine is a 6 cyl and his is 8 cyl.
When we are at destination and unhooked we normally use his truck for sight seeing trips because his non towing fuel mileage is at least 4 and ½ mpg better than mine.
My only comment is that I REALLY dislike sliding hitches. They are prone to not working well at all. Without exception, every single person I have talked to that have one either do not use them, or dislike them. (That said, I'm sure to hear from people that have them and love them....
)
I would look at full size beds. It will give you some additional storage room which you will likely need with the size unit you are looking at. My personal opinion, based on experience.
-- Edited by Jack Mayer on Monday 11th of June 2012 12:08:36 PM
Would like to get some feedback on a possible 5er TV combo we are thinking about. We understand there are a bunch of variables but given the basics we are trying to figure out if we are on the right track. Looking at a Crossroads Patriot CF335SS with the following weights. Dry Weight 9741, GVWR 12,380, Pin weight 1,980. We know these are all approximate weights. Our debate is gear ratio on the TV. We are looking at two options.
First TV is 3/4 ton GVWR 9,400 and is Diesel 3.73 gears SRW, 3,066 payload, Tow weight max of 15,800, and 24,500 GCWR.
The second TV is 3/4 ton GVWR 9,900 and is Diesel 3.31 or 3.55 gears SRW, 2,630 payload, Tow weight max of 14,000, and 23,500 GCWR.
We will be doing a quite of bit of traveling in the first few years and only want one vehicle. Mileage is somewhat of an issue when not towing. I will not be in a big hurry to get anywhere. Both tow vehicles are priced about the same and will be paid for prior to departure day for us. We understand about upgrading later and that won't be a problem in 10-15 years. On a side note looking at a 20klb sliding hitch because we want a crew cab with standard bed truck.
Thanks in advance for everyones help. You guys/gals are awesome.
As Jack says, there will be some who like sliding hitches. But I don’t and a failure to operate properly can absolutely tear the truck and the RV up really bad. (Is a dealer trying to sell a used slider hitch to you?) The extra length of the full size (8 foot) bed is rather insignificant in terms of parking and actual maneuverability. It is just the better option for a lot of reasons including safety and flexibility.
Rear-end ratios are only are valid when comparing them considering the transmission gearing and tire sizes. For example, a vehicle with a 4.01 may actually have less towing capacity than a 3.76. It depends. While many of the manufactures tow numbers can be a bit misleading, use the truck specific numbers to determine the capability of the specific truck in question. Don’t use the marketing brochure or the rear axle ratio. As to solo mileage – that, IMO should not be in the decision process. Towing and capacity have to be the main issues in the decision process. Good and safe towing capabilities and good mileage are oxymorons; wish it were different.
Do some research on the forums as to specific vehicles. For example, some years were “good years” for diesel engines for some manufactures; other years, not so good.
Also consider what upgrades, like aux fuel tanks, might be desirable as you said you were going to travel and not just sit. Those require weight carrying capabilities and usually an 8 foot bed assuming an in-bed tank.
These are just some thoughts for your consideration.
Welcome to the life.
Bill
As mentioned, don't go with information from brochures. They don't necessarily have the actual specifics for those trucks as to weight capacity. When matching a truck and trailer, always look at GCVW, not towing weights. Some units could be OK with towing weight but still be overweight.
As a rule of thumb, the rear axle ratio will determine some weight capacity but it mostly has an effect on fuel economy. A low number of ratio will actually be better on mileage and speed, but you don't seem worried about speed. The higher number gear ratio will handle more weight if using the same engine, and will be better suited for towing up hills and mountains.
Example: Our 2008 Ford F450 has the 4:88 rear axle ratio and is rated at 33,000 lbs of GCVW with the 6.4L diesel. If we had gotten a 2008 F450 with the 4:30 ratio, our GCVW would only be 29,000 lbs.
Since you didn't mention the brands/models of the trucks, I really recommend you get the information off of the data plate on the door or pillar and take it to a dealer to get actual weight capacities. I did that with our F450 to verify that it had the 4:88 rear axle rating.
Good luck with it all. And enjoy the camping/rv'ing.
Terry
There are advantages to a long bed truck- ie: no sliding hitch to worry about, more room to carry "stuff", and a better ride.
I have a quad cab Dodge with a pullrite superglide hitch. If you buy the right 5'er with a front design for short bed trucks, you won't need the slider hitch.
Our intention is to get the 5er and truck in a year or so and have them paid off by Departure date. We are looking at the Crossroads because of the layout, weight, and price. (Yes we have been inside them.) We looked at older and heavier in higher quality but really want to stay away from anything more than 10K # to start. A secondary investment fund will mature anywhere from 10-15 years and it will buy a nice 1 ton dually and our final home outright. We spent 2 weeks in a tent on vacation so close quarters don’t bother us at all.
About 50% of our RV travels have been traveled with our long time friends. Our rigs are within 500# (one way or the other) in GCWR. We both have 1 ton dually trucks. Our friends is 4X4. He has 3.73 gearing to our 4.10. In the hilly country I get better fuel economy than he does and I have to always lead because I have more pulling power than he does. In the flat country his fuel economy is a little better than mine at 65 MPH but at 62 MPH and below we are very equal. Both of us get the best fuel mileage at around 62 MPH using cruse control. OOPS, both trucks are diesel. Mine is a 6 cyl and his is 8 cyl.
When we are at destination and unhooked we normally use his truck for sight seeing trips because his non towing fuel mileage is at least 4 and ½ mpg better than mine.
Hope that helps a little.
http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=19985
FastEagle
-- Edited by FastEagle on Tuesday 12th of June 2012 09:36:54 PM