Installing hitch... do I need the bed liner removed?
Terry and Jo said
06:31 PM Apr 11, 2012
If the bedliner is not a spray-on liner, then it is likely they will need to remove that. Should that be a factor, see if you can have the present bed-liner removed and have a spray-on liner done before installing the fifth wheel.
The reason for the need of no "drop-in" bed-liner is because that type won't let the bolts for the fifth wheel rails tighten up enough to be safe. With a spray-on liner, the tolerance between the rails and the bed is much closer, thus allowing the bolts to be tightened better.
What you might not have is a 7-way electrical socket inside the bed of the truck. Many of the tow packages on the trucks include the 7-way socket at the bumper for that kind of trailer. It is best to have a socket inside the bed so that the electrical cable from the fifth wheel doesn't have to be outside of the bed.
Beyond the electrical, the only other thing they might be talking about adding would be a trailer brake controller. While the Ford should have an intergrated brake control (IBC), some folks prefer aftermarket controllers.
With the brakes in mind, if your trailer has the electric-over-hydraulic brake system, then you might need another part. Our fifth wheel has that type of system and with our Ford IBC, we needed to have what is called a Carlisle HDA-CAM to allow the IBC to correctly work with the brakes. Without it, I got error messages on the truck computer display that said our trailer wasn't hooked up.
I would suggest that you see your RV dealer and have them verify just what it was that they were referring to, so that some of us here could better answer your question.
Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Wednesday 11th of April 2012 06:31:36 PM
patoneill said
12:20 AM Apr 12, 2012
Hi,
We just bought our first 5th wheels. We also have a brand new super duty F-350 that came with a bed liner.
Next step is to have the RV dealership install a hitch, but... when I was talking on the phone today with a guy from the service department, he told me they will remove my liner.
I do not like this idea. I thought he could manage without destroying the nice liner. What do you think?
Also, they said that they'll need to install something else in the truck to connect to my 5th wheels as well as a trailer brake. But I have all of that, because we took the heavy duty trailer package. He said... we'll see. Again, any input and/or advice will be appreciated!
Both vehicles are new 2012 models.
Thanks!
Patricia
MaryBee said
06:01 AM Apr 12, 2012
We recently put a fifth wheel hitch in our truck and we kept our bedliner in. I don't have a spray in liner, we have the plastic kind.
Keep in mind, the hitch we installed has under the bed rails so that we can remove our hitch and not have to deal with the rails in the bed of the truck in case we need to haul something.
I don't know if that makes the difference or not but we got to keep our liner in our truck.
Terry and Jo said
02:06 PM Apr 12, 2012
Mary,
Yours is likely a B & W hitch where a "receiver" is installed under the bed and a large hole (2" to 3") is cut into the center of the bed for the "companion" fifth wheel hitch to be inserted. While there are a number of folks who have used them and like them, those are limited to a rating of 18,000 lbs.
The advantage to that style is that if one wants to remove the hitch and "haul" stuff in the bed of the truck, one doesn't have to deal with a pair of rails in the bed. The bed is thus a flat bed. The drawback is that when one wants to trade in the truck, one has a hole in the bed.
Terry
Bill and Linda said
02:37 PM Apr 12, 2012
In reverse order: You first need to determine what kind of brakes are on your trailer.The 2011’s and up have brake controllers from the factory.They will not work with trailer brakes if they are disc brakes, more specifically referred to as “Electric Over Hydraulic.”Electric Over Hydraulic disc trailer brakes are far superior to the old magnetic shoe type brakes.However, the factory brake controllers will work with the old magnetic type trailer brakes – just not as well IMO.
I would take the advice of the man and have a quality aftermarket brake controller installed.It will give you better adjustment control over the trailer brake application – far better.(I prefer the P-2 from Tekonsha – just experience) I’ve seen both in types in operation and the factory ones work, but not as well.As Terry said, there are “adapters” for the Electric Over Hydraulic disc brakes that are supposed to make them work with the factory brake controllers.I’ve also had direct, personal reports of the adapters burning up.Take all this for what it is worth.I had an aftermarket installed in my 2012 Chevy truck even though the factory one “worked.”
If this is a 2011 F-350 and the factory bed hitch option was installed, you should be able to put in a Reese Elite series hitch without much trouble.However, I understand that if the liner is still there it may be difficult to cut the holes in it and then the installer would be responsible if you’re not satisfied. This will also allow water to get under the liner. If this is a “plastic” bed liner, I would remove it and have a spray-in liner installed, then have the hitch installed.More expensive, but a better long term solution, IMO due to rust.
Safe travels
Bill
patoneill said
05:27 PM Apr 12, 2012
Thanks for all the input.
The RV dealer service manager called me back this morning. He said they won't remove the liner but will cut it to install the hitch. I understand the interest of a spray in liner and I will try to convince my husband to do it. Maybe not that easy but that's another story ;)
The hitch the dealer proposes is a Reese.
After reading Terry's post, I understood better what's going on with the hitch and I investigated... my trailer (2012) has Dexter Nev-R-Adjust brakes (I hope they do what they name says...). And Ford (I have a 2012 model) says their IBC is compatible with Dexter. So far so good...
Maybe we'll have to install an after market controller. But at least now I understand why. Thank you again for the detailed explanations. Understanding is what makes the difference!!
If the bedliner is not a spray-on liner, then it is likely they will need to remove that. Should that be a factor, see if you can have the present bed-liner removed and have a spray-on liner done before installing the fifth wheel.
The reason for the need of no "drop-in" bed-liner is because that type won't let the bolts for the fifth wheel rails tighten up enough to be safe. With a spray-on liner, the tolerance between the rails and the bed is much closer, thus allowing the bolts to be tightened better.
What you might not have is a 7-way electrical socket inside the bed of the truck. Many of the tow packages on the trucks include the 7-way socket at the bumper for that kind of trailer. It is best to have a socket inside the bed so that the electrical cable from the fifth wheel doesn't have to be outside of the bed.
Beyond the electrical, the only other thing they might be talking about adding would be a trailer brake controller. While the Ford should have an intergrated brake control (IBC), some folks prefer aftermarket controllers.
With the brakes in mind, if your trailer has the electric-over-hydraulic brake system, then you might need another part. Our fifth wheel has that type of system and with our Ford IBC, we needed to have what is called a Carlisle HDA-CAM to allow the IBC to correctly work with the brakes. Without it, I got error messages on the truck computer display that said our trailer wasn't hooked up.
I would suggest that you see your RV dealer and have them verify just what it was that they were referring to, so that some of us here could better answer your question.
Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Wednesday 11th of April 2012 06:31:36 PM
Hi,
We just bought our first 5th wheels. We also have a brand new super duty F-350 that came with a bed liner.
Next step is to have the RV dealership install a hitch, but... when I was talking on the phone today with a guy from the service department, he told me they will remove my liner.
I do not like this idea. I thought he could manage without destroying the nice liner. What do you think?
Also, they said that they'll need to install something else in the truck to connect to my 5th wheels as well as a trailer brake. But I have all of that, because we took the heavy duty trailer package. He said... we'll see. Again, any input and/or advice will be appreciated!
Both vehicles are new 2012 models.
Thanks!
Patricia
plastic kind.
Keep in mind, the hitch we installed has under the bed rails so that we can remove our hitch and not
have to deal with the rails in the bed of the truck in case we need to haul something.
I don't know if that makes the difference or not but we got to keep our liner in our truck.
Mary,
Yours is likely a B & W hitch where a "receiver" is installed under the bed and a large hole (2" to 3") is cut into the center of the bed for the "companion" fifth wheel hitch to be inserted. While there are a number of folks who have used them and like them, those are limited to a rating of 18,000 lbs.
The advantage to that style is that if one wants to remove the hitch and "haul" stuff in the bed of the truck, one doesn't have to deal with a pair of rails in the bed. The bed is thus a flat bed. The drawback is that when one wants to trade in the truck, one has a hole in the bed.
Terry
In reverse order: You first need to determine what kind of brakes are on your trailer. The 2011’s and up have brake controllers from the factory. They will not work with trailer brakes if they are disc brakes, more specifically referred to as “Electric Over Hydraulic.” Electric Over Hydraulic disc trailer brakes are far superior to the old magnetic shoe type brakes. However, the factory brake controllers will work with the old magnetic type trailer brakes – just not as well IMO.
I would take the advice of the man and have a quality aftermarket brake controller installed. It will give you better adjustment control over the trailer brake application – far better. (I prefer the P-2 from Tekonsha – just experience) I’ve seen both in types in operation and the factory ones work, but not as well. As Terry said, there are “adapters” for the Electric Over Hydraulic disc brakes that are supposed to make them work with the factory brake controllers. I’ve also had direct, personal reports of the adapters burning up. Take all this for what it is worth. I had an aftermarket installed in my 2012 Chevy truck even though the factory one “worked.”
If this is a 2011 F-350 and the factory bed hitch option was installed, you should be able to put in a Reese Elite series hitch without much trouble. However, I understand that if the liner is still there it may be difficult to cut the holes in it and then the installer would be responsible if you’re not satisfied. This will also allow water to get under the liner. If this is a “plastic” bed liner, I would remove it and have a spray-in liner installed, then have the hitch installed. More expensive, but a better long term solution, IMO due to rust.
Safe travels
Bill
Thanks for all the input.
The RV dealer service manager called me back this morning. He said they won't remove the liner but will cut it to install the hitch. I understand the interest of a spray in liner and I will try to convince my husband to do it. Maybe not that easy but that's another story ;)
The hitch the dealer proposes is a Reese.
After reading Terry's post, I understood better what's going on with the hitch and I investigated... my trailer (2012) has Dexter Nev-R-Adjust brakes (I hope they do what they name says...). And Ford (I have a 2012 model) says their IBC is compatible with Dexter. So far so good...
Maybe we'll have to install an after market controller. But at least now I understand why. Thank you again for the detailed explanations. Understanding is what makes the difference!!
Patricia