Well my eyes are crossing over trying to make up a maintenance schedule for Winnona our 2004 34' Winnebago Brave. Reading in the Winnebago manual, the workhorse chasis manual and the Allison Transmission manual I get totally different "facts" about
how often to change the oil which also differs if you use synthetic which we do. how often to change the transmission oil
how often to change the brake fluid
rotate the tire...........really, rotate the RV tires? Do you guys do that?
Where is the place to even check the axel fluid?
It's clear that if we can figure this out, David can do a lot of it and save us big maintenance bucks.
Do you guys do your own maintenance and if so what and how often and any other advice you have time to give.
Many thanks, Sherry
Old Snipe said
08:00 PM Sep 25, 2011
I posted to your blog my answer, but in the interest to other Dreamers, here's my answer again:
I had the 8.1 GM engine in my 2003 Adventurer. I changed the engine oil every 5,000 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic oil (6 quarts). Changed the oil filter at the same time and lubed (greased) the chassis, including the driveshaft and universal joints. On that engine, the coolant was replaced at 48 months.
The Allison transmission required the spin on filter to be changed at 5,000 miles, ensuring the washer shaped magnet on top of the old filter to be moved over to the new one. I used Transynd synthetic fluid. The trans fluid I had changed at the 36,000 mile or 36 month mark.
I had the brake fluid changed every two years. Brake fluid absorbs water and can become contaminated, not only rusting brake calipers but under heavy braking can boil and cause the loss of braking.
The differential will have a 1/2 square plug on it that can be removed by inserting a 1/2 inch ratchet. The fluid should be level with the plug hole.
No need to rotate tires. RVs don't get that many miles on them where it would be cost effective, tires will usually age out (5-7 years) before they wear out.
Regular fluid changes are an RVs best friend. A handy person can do most all of this work and save a lot of money.
Best Regards!
-- Edited by Old Snipe on Sunday 25th of September 2011 08:04:43 PM
RVRon said
08:37 AM Sep 26, 2011
Sherry, our motorhome is on a Workhorse Chassis also, one year newer than yours. I've been doing just about all of my own maintenance and it's not that difficult and sure saves a lot of $$$$$!!! I agree with Old Snipe about the oil changes and transmission. By the way your transmission probably has the older Dextron fluid in it if you haven't had it changed and will definitely benefit from the change to synthetic Transynd.
While I'm crawling around under the chassis doing the oil change I also shoot some grease in all of the lube points. You'll find a chart in the chassis manual. The driveshaft has several as does the front end.
As Old Snipe said, the rear axle lube is checked by removing the plug in the diff housing. The front axles are separate units on each side. You just need to remove the hubcap "simulator" and look at the little window in the middle of the wheel to see the oil level.
I vote no on the tire rotation as well. Your tires will dry rot and need replacement before they would get enough of a wear pattern in them to require rotation.
If you haven't been there already, the Workhorse section of the iRV2.com forum is what I feel to be the most informative source of good information available online. You'll probably find the answers to all of your questions just by doing a search there.
Sometimes David said
12:54 PM Sep 26, 2011
Thanks Paul & Ron - I'm with you on all of this, although I was planning to stay with the recommended Dexron III for the transmission. According to the Allison manual I have, you can't use the "double-life" schedule with Transynd unless you have a 100% Transynd, which you can't have if your rig was initially filled with Dexron. They also note that flushing with Transynd does not qualify you to use the double-life schedule either due to variance in the efficiencies of flushing systems - they don't all remove all of the original fluid as far as they are concerned. Is it worth the extra cost to go with Transynd if you are still going to have to change it every 30K, or is this just the hype that goes with their latest lubricant technology standard? I was very disappointed to learn that using full synthetic motor oil does not alter the recommended change frequency, so I am not sure the other claimed benefits of synthetic will ever come to me during the life of the vehicle.
How full is full on the front wheel hubs, and how do you add fluid if it is needed?
I will check out the iRV2 Workhorse forum for sure.
Thanks again,
David
RVRon said
01:58 PM Sep 26, 2011
Sometimes David wrote:
Thanks Paul & Ron - I'm with you on all of this, although I was planning to stay with the recommended Dexron III for the transmission. According to the Allison manual I have, you can't use the "double-life" schedule with Transynd unless you have a 100% Transynd, which you can't have if your rig was initially filled with Dexron. They also note that flushing with Transynd does not qualify you to use the double-life schedule either due to variance in the efficiencies of flushing systems - they don't all remove all of the original fluid as far as they are concerned. Is it worth the extra cost to go with Transynd if you are still going to have to change it every 30K, or is this just the hype that goes with their latest lubricant technology standard? I was very disappointed to learn that using full synthetic motor oil does not alter the recommended change frequency, so I am not sure the other claimed benefits of synthetic will ever come to me during the life of the vehicle.
How full is full on the front wheel hubs, and how do you add fluid if it is needed?
I will check out the iRV2 Workhorse forum for sure.
Thanks again,
David
David, if your front hubs are like mine you'll see a removable center rubber plug in a transparent "bulb" at the center of the hub. The correct level is just below the opening when the center plug is removed. You would add fluid by removing the plug and adding until it is at that lower lip of the opening.
As for Transynd vs Dextron, you're right that it would take a couple of changes to get all of the Dextron out of the transmission. My understanding is that Allison recommends Transynd for all of their transmissions and studies have shown way fewer transmission failures with Transynd. Yeah, it's a lot more expensive but I'd sure rather spend a few extra hundred to save several thousand if the trans had to be replaced. DriVer on iRV2 just did a blog on the process of changing to Transynd you might find informative.
Old Snipe said
02:04 PM Sep 26, 2011
Hi David,
If you have the oil filled hubs, under the wheel liner, you'll see a plastic window with a rubber plug in the middle. On one side of the window is a drain plug. Cast into the window is a circle that indicates the oil level. Use the proper weight gear oil, in your manual. I think it's 80-90W, but double check me on that, I may not remember correctly.
To change, rotate the tire until the drain plug faces down, remove and drain. After draining, reinstall the drain plug. You then pull out the center rubber plug and fill through that hole. Important is not to overfill, put in a little at a time, spin the wheel and let the oil settle. The fill a little more until you get to the fill line. If you overfill, you can cause a leak at the seal on the back side of the hub.
You can use Transynd, it is compatable with the regular Dexron. After another 30K miles you can drain and refill with Transynd again and then go to the extended drain schedule.
Or you can stay with the Dexron, if you decide to. It is okay, just stick to the proper drain sequence.
Best Regards!
RVRon said
02:20 PM Sep 26, 2011
Looks like Old Snipe and I crossed posts! About the front axle lubrication... you need to determine what chassis you have to be sure. The W-20, 22 and 24 series use the oil bath system we've both described. The P series uses a traditional grease packed bearing system.
Well my eyes are crossing over trying to make up a maintenance schedule for Winnona our 2004 34' Winnebago Brave. Reading in the Winnebago manual, the workhorse chasis manual and the Allison Transmission manual I get totally different "facts" about
how often to change the oil which also differs if you use synthetic which we do.
how often to change the transmission oil
how often to change the brake fluid
rotate the tire...........really, rotate the RV tires? Do you guys do that?
Where is the place to even check the axel fluid?
It's clear that if we can figure this out, David can do a lot of it and save us big
maintenance bucks.
Do you guys do your own maintenance and if so what and how often and any other advice you have time to give.
Many thanks,
Sherry
I posted to your blog my answer, but in the interest to other Dreamers, here's my answer again:
I had the 8.1 GM engine in my 2003 Adventurer. I changed the engine oil every 5,000 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic oil (6 quarts). Changed the oil filter at the same time and lubed (greased) the chassis, including the driveshaft and universal joints. On that engine, the coolant was replaced at 48 months.
The Allison transmission required the spin on filter to be changed at 5,000 miles, ensuring the washer shaped magnet on top of the old filter to be moved over to the new one. I used Transynd synthetic fluid. The trans fluid I had changed at the 36,000 mile or 36 month mark.
I had the brake fluid changed every two years. Brake fluid absorbs water and can become contaminated, not only rusting brake calipers but under heavy braking can boil and cause the loss of braking.
The differential will have a 1/2 square plug on it that can be removed by inserting a 1/2 inch ratchet. The fluid should be level with the plug hole.
No need to rotate tires. RVs don't get that many miles on them where it would be cost effective, tires will usually age out (5-7 years) before they wear out.
Regular fluid changes are an RVs best friend. A handy person can do most all of this work and save a lot of money.
Best Regards!
-- Edited by Old Snipe on Sunday 25th of September 2011 08:04:43 PM
Sherry, our motorhome is on a Workhorse Chassis also, one year newer than yours. I've been doing just about all of my own maintenance and it's not that difficult and sure saves a lot of $$$$$!!! I agree with Old Snipe about the oil changes and transmission. By the way your transmission probably has the older Dextron fluid in it if you haven't had it changed and will definitely benefit from the change to synthetic Transynd.
While I'm crawling around under the chassis doing the oil change I also shoot some grease in all of the lube points. You'll find a chart in the chassis manual. The driveshaft has several as does the front end.
As Old Snipe said, the rear axle lube is checked by removing the plug in the diff housing. The front axles are separate units on each side. You just need to remove the hubcap "simulator" and look at the little window in the middle of the wheel to see the oil level.
I vote no on the tire rotation as well. Your tires will dry rot and need replacement before they would get enough of a wear pattern in them to require rotation.
If you haven't been there already, the Workhorse section of the iRV2.com forum is what I feel to be the most informative source of good information available online. You'll probably find the answers to all of your questions just by doing a search there.
How full is full on the front wheel hubs, and how do you add fluid if it is needed?
I will check out the iRV2 Workhorse forum for sure.
Thanks again,
David
David, if your front hubs are like mine you'll see a removable center rubber plug in a transparent "bulb" at the center of the hub. The correct level is just below the opening when the center plug is removed. You would add fluid by removing the plug and adding until it is at that lower lip of the opening.
As for Transynd vs Dextron, you're right that it would take a couple of changes to get all of the Dextron out of the transmission. My understanding is that Allison recommends Transynd for all of their transmissions and studies have shown way fewer transmission failures with Transynd. Yeah, it's a lot more expensive but I'd sure rather spend a few extra hundred to save several thousand if the trans had to be replaced. DriVer on iRV2 just did a blog on the process of changing to Transynd you might find informative.
Hi David,
If you have the oil filled hubs, under the wheel liner, you'll see a plastic window with a rubber plug in the middle. On one side of the window is a drain plug. Cast into the window is a circle that indicates the oil level. Use the proper weight gear oil, in your manual. I think it's 80-90W, but double check me on that, I may not remember correctly.
To change, rotate the tire until the drain plug faces down, remove and drain. After draining, reinstall the drain plug. You then pull out the center rubber plug and fill through that hole. Important is not to overfill, put in a little at a time, spin the wheel and let the oil settle. The fill a little more until you get to the fill line. If you overfill, you can cause a leak at the seal on the back side of the hub.
You can use Transynd, it is compatable with the regular Dexron. After another 30K miles you can drain and refill with Transynd again and then go to the extended drain schedule.
Or you can stay with the Dexron, if you decide to. It is okay, just stick to the proper drain sequence.
Best Regards!
Looks like Old Snipe and I crossed posts! About the front axle lubrication... you need to determine what chassis you have to be sure. The W-20, 22 and 24 series use the oil bath system we've both described. The P series uses a traditional grease packed bearing system.