Another question for anyone with a class C up to 26 ft: I'm running into a lot of un-level places as I travel, even really neat parks or campgrounds with slabs are somehow hard to get level in, so I'm considering having leveling jacks (I think they're hydraulic but not sure about that) put on my Class C 26'. Question is, what effect does this have on the Class C? A neighbor's whole windshield popped out when he tried to level his 40' Class A. Mine won't pop out, but what other effects might it have to put leveling jacks on a short coach? Positives? Any input welcome. Also, what is a good brand and what is the ballpark price, if you know or have put them on your coach? I know, a lot of questions, but I'd rather find out information from other RVers than go in uninformed to dealers who sell them. Thanks for any information.
GENECOP said
01:48 PM May 18, 2011
Contact Bigfoot, they have a great product, good customer support, and will advise you. G
Had them installed on a 35' MH that we had and they worked great. Give them a call and they'll give you all the info you need.
Jim
Bill and Linda said
01:05 PM May 21, 2011
I am a big fan of the Big Foot system and recommend it highly.I’ll add another note (and Howard will smile) concerning installation - or better put, who should do it.
If you are able to go to MOR-ryde and let them do the install they will do a great job.So, why would I go to MOR-ryde and not a few miles more into Michigan to the Big Foot “factory?”Simple, I’ve been to both places and “I” have experience to say that MOR-ryde will do a better job of installation.MOR-ryde does frame, axle brake and more work.They know more about working on Class “C’s”, “A’s” 5’ers, etc. because they do a lot of them all the time.You might even get a better price and I know you will get a great lunch thrown in.
PM mail me if you want more info as to specifics of why, IMO, MOR-ryde and not the Big Foot “factory for your install.
BTW, the Big Foot product is GREAT.I’m talking specifically about the guys who will do the welding, etc. and make it "right."
Safe travels
Bill
Bill Adams said
02:47 PM May 21, 2011
I am not sure anyone answered the question "Question is, what effect does this have on the Class C?" The short answer it nothing! It will make you life much easier when you get into a site and your coach will be much more stable once you are parked and level. If you follow the directions you will not pop anything out of anything if you follow the procedure outlined by the manufacturer but if you raise one corner too much you can twist the chassis andcausee issues. Therefore, don't do that! Most setups force you to move 2 compatible jacks at the same time (2 front, 2 left, 2 right, etc) to avoid this issue but if you must move one at a time just do it gently so you don't add a twist in the mix.
WhoSaidYouNeedMillions said
03:38 PM May 21, 2011
I had the Bigfoot levelers on my last rig. They were nothing but problems. They leaked fluid. Two of them had to be replaced. Sometimes they worked and sometimes they did not. It's a real problem when they get stuck in the down position. I would never have levelers again. I use those yellow plastic blocks now. Sure sometimes I'm not perfectly level, but I've learned to live with it.
Jon '09 Winnebago View
Bill and Linda said
04:28 PM May 21, 2011
Bill Adams is correct; however, if you purchase the “Automatic” version of the Big Foot Controller it will keep you from ever having to worry about ever getting the frame out of alignment or twisted simply due to how the Automatic system works.You can operate the “Automatic” system in a Manual mode which, if you are simply uniformed as to how to operate the system, yes you can bend the frame. (BTW, you can bend a frame with leaving blocks – seen it happen.)But in a Class “C” or Class “A” I can’t see any reason to ever use the manual mode.(In the case of a 5’er there are some conditions where manual is necessary such as when you are connected to the tow vehicle. But that’s not part of this thread for a Class “C”.)
Sorry the other poster had a problem.So far, in the last 2 years, ours have been very reliable.I wouldn’t have a rig without them – neither would the DW.But, that’s why you have a choice.
As an aside, assuming the Big Foots are properly installed and properly operated, they are a very good safety device should you have a flat.No jacks and no danger; just push a few buttons properly and the vehicle is “jacked up” to change tire – safely.Been there, done that - boy is that easier.
Bill
Terry and Jo said
09:18 AM May 22, 2011
Another option of a leveling system is the Level-Up system built by Lippert Components, Inc. DRV Suites is one that uses the Lippert system. One thing with leaks is to make sure that anyone installing them for you tightens up the hose fittings and any plugs for a spot where no hose is installed. (The separate cylinders are hosed in series on our unit and there is one cylinder that has only one hose on it.)
Having had campers with the electric landing gear, I was very pleasantly amazed to see how fast the nose of the fifth wheel can be raised with hydraulics. The systems are nice in that one doesn't have to carry multiple sizes of blocks for leveling.
I still carry blocks, but they are all basically all one thickness (2X12's), so that I can place them under a cylinder jack pad. That is so I don't have to extend a cylinder all the way I think it helps stability if part of the cylinder "rod" is still within the cylinder housing.
I will stand corrected if in error, but the Lippert system is not available for Class “C”, or “A”, motorhomes. It is a “5’er product” according to the web site and she is looking for a motorhome product.Please correct me if I am mistaken.
Bill
Terry and Jo said
08:13 PM May 22, 2011
No, Bill. You aren't wrong, but I've once again fallen into the mistake of not reading the post fully, or forgetting the detail of Scottiegirl wanting a motorhome.
My apologies for misleading anyone.
Terry
Roll Me Away said
10:15 AM Jun 5, 2011
Hi, Bill and Linda and Terry and everyone. I took my time and followed up some of the links and phoned around and asked Born Free technical in Iowa. Basically, about 80 percent told me that any kind of levelers would be a lot of added weight although convenient when leveling. Since I full time, the weight is really an issue with a coach that is 27 ft, although I know many do it in smaller rigs. The cost is really spellbinding as well. I did meet two RVers in 24 ft rigs and they were happy with their levelers, mostly because they were not in tip-top physical shape and it was easier than blocks and sweating in the heat of summer. So for the present I am going to apply the suggestion of the really terrific folks at Born Free and get some of those plastic blocks or treated wood cut to 18 inch sections and find the most level lot possible and use the boards and blocks for a while.
Thank you all for the great resources for investigation of this eventual add-on to my rig. I hope that eventually I learn enough to help someone else as you have been resources for me. This is truly a very fine forum. Now to go to Lowe's and try to figure just the right size and weight for the blocks.
53 Merc said
12:20 PM Jun 5, 2011
Scottie, if you go the board route, have some 3 inch boards 8 to 10 inches wide cut in a wedge shape. Then you can back up on the wedge until you are level side to side. I have some plastic wedges made by SNAPS from C'ouer D'Alene Idaho, but their website will not work any more, so I guess they are gone. BTW, the wedges should fit under one tire only, that way you can get maximum lift and the tires will be approximately the same.
Roll Me Away said
04:03 PM Jun 6, 2011
53 Merc, I Googled Snaps leveling blocks and got RV Parts Center which has them, photo of them too, for $40. I may get hold of them tomorrow and see about getting a couple. I think it's the same thing you were mentioning. Thanks!
53 Merc said
04:42 PM Jun 6, 2011
That is exactly what I was talking about. They work great and do not collapse like other plastic blocking. These are solid reclaimed plastic.
Mine won't pop out, but what other effects might it have to put leveling jacks on a short coach? Positives? Any input welcome.
Also, what is a good brand and what is the ballpark price, if you know or have put them on your coach?
I know, a lot of questions, but I'd rather find out information from other RVers than go in uninformed to dealers who sell them.
Thanks for any information.
Like GENECOP says, I'd go with Bigfoot http://www.bigfootleveler.com/index.php
Had them installed on a 35' MH that we had and they worked great. Give them a call and they'll give you all the info you need.
Jim
I am a big fan of the Big Foot system and recommend it highly. I’ll add another note (and Howard will smile) concerning installation - or better put, who should do it.
If you are able to go to MOR-ryde and let them do the install they will do a great job. So, why would I go to MOR-ryde and not a few miles more into Michigan to the Big Foot “factory?” Simple, I’ve been to both places and “I” have experience to say that MOR-ryde will do a better job of installation. MOR-ryde does frame, axle brake and more work. They know more about working on Class “C’s”, “A’s” 5’ers, etc. because they do a lot of them all the time. You might even get a better price and I know you will get a great lunch thrown in.
PM mail me if you want more info as to specifics of why, IMO, MOR-ryde and not the Big Foot “factory for your install.
BTW, the Big Foot product is GREAT. I’m talking specifically about the guys who will do the welding, etc. and make it "right."
Safe travels
Bill
The short answer it nothing! It will make you life much easier when you get into a site and your coach will be much more stable once you are parked and level. If you follow the directions you will not pop anything out of anything if you follow the procedure outlined by the manufacturer but if you raise one corner too much you can twist the chassis andcausee issues. Therefore, don't do that! Most setups force you to move 2 compatible jacks at the same time (2 front, 2 left, 2 right, etc) to avoid this issue but if you must move one at a time just do it gently so you don't add a twist in the mix.
Jon
'09 Winnebago View
Bill Adams is correct; however, if you purchase the “Automatic” version of the Big Foot Controller it will keep you from ever having to worry about ever getting the frame out of alignment or twisted simply due to how the Automatic system works. You can operate the “Automatic” system in a Manual mode which, if you are simply uniformed as to how to operate the system, yes you can bend the frame. (BTW, you can bend a frame with leaving blocks – seen it happen.) But in a Class “C” or Class “A” I can’t see any reason to ever use the manual mode. (In the case of a 5’er there are some conditions where manual is necessary such as when you are connected to the tow vehicle. But that’s not part of this thread for a Class “C”.)
Sorry the other poster had a problem. So far, in the last 2 years, ours have been very reliable. I wouldn’t have a rig without them – neither would the DW. But, that’s why you have a choice.
As an aside, assuming the Big Foots are properly installed and properly operated, they are a very good safety device should you have a flat. No jacks and no danger; just push a few buttons properly and the vehicle is “jacked up” to change tire – safely. Been there, done that - boy is that easier.
Bill
Another option of a leveling system is the Level-Up system built by Lippert Components, Inc. DRV Suites is one that uses the Lippert system. One thing with leaks is to make sure that anyone installing them for you tightens up the hose fittings and any plugs for a spot where no hose is installed. (The separate cylinders are hosed in series on our unit and there is one cylinder that has only one hose on it.)
Having had campers with the electric landing gear, I was very pleasantly amazed to see how fast the nose of the fifth wheel can be raised with hydraulics. The systems are nice in that one doesn't have to carry multiple sizes of blocks for leveling.
I still carry blocks, but they are all basically all one thickness (2X12's), so that I can place them under a cylinder jack pad. That is so I don't have to extend a cylinder all the way I think it helps stability if part of the cylinder "rod" is still within the cylinder housing.
Lippert's website is here:
http://www.lippertcomponents.com/
Terry
Terry:
I will stand corrected if in error, but the Lippert system is not available for Class “C”, or “A”, motorhomes. It is a “5’er product” according to the web site and she is looking for a motorhome product. Please correct me if I am mistaken.
Bill
No, Bill. You aren't wrong, but I've once again fallen into the mistake of not reading the post fully, or forgetting the detail of Scottiegirl wanting a motorhome.
My apologies for misleading anyone.
Terry
Thank you all for the great resources for investigation of this eventual add-on to my rig. I hope that eventually I learn enough to help someone else as you have been resources for me. This is truly a very fine forum. Now to go to Lowe's and try to figure just the right size and weight for the blocks.
BTW, the wedges should fit under one tire only, that way you can get maximum lift and the tires will be approximately the same.
Thanks!