If a 5er weighs 13000k pounds emptyIE delivered weight, about how much weight does one usually add when full timinng ? Thanks for any input.
Rusty
Luvglass said
02:12 PM Feb 27, 2011
You can expect to add about 2500 to 3500 pounds, in my experience.
Jim01 said
06:41 PM Feb 27, 2011
I agree with Fred.
Saw an article once that stated that most Full-timers average right around 3,000 lbs. We carry at least that much and constantly have to work to keep the weight down.
Jim
bjoyce said
07:52 PM Feb 27, 2011
The normal rule of thumb is 1,000 to 1,500 lbs per person out of your your CCC, which means 2,000 to 3,000lbs per couple. It sounds like some carry even more, but I suspect water and propane are being included in that weight for some of you while the definition of CCC includes those. We carry about 2,100 to 2,200lbs and that has been consistent between two motorhomes including the weight of our solar panels. The CCC is your Cargo Carrying Capacity and should be listed somewhere in your RV, it is the weight you can carry with full water and full propane for any RV, plus full fuel and 154lbs per person for motorhomes.
Rusty said
11:00 AM Mar 1, 2011
Thank you very much for the input. I wish I had the $ for a new 2011 Duramax(21,000lbs capacity), But I think a 08 1-ton dually duramax will do.
Bill and Linda said
03:29 PM Mar 1, 2011
Rusty wrote:
Thank you very much for the input. I wish I had the $ for a new 2011 Duramax(21,000lbs capacity), But I think a 08 1-ton dually duramax will do.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The ’08 3500 Chevy Dully has a 23,500 lb capacity, the same as they have for years.The new 2011 is 29,000+.
The '08 will do just fine and you will love the Allison transmission.
Good luck and safe travels.
Bill
Rusty said
07:15 PM Mar 1, 2011
Ok at the risk of asking a dumb question. I thought the 08 1-ton had a towing capacity of 16,700lbs ? and the 2011 towing capacity was 21,000lbs ?
Bill and Linda said
07:47 AM Mar 2, 2011
Rusty wrote:
Ok at the risk of asking a dumb question. I thought the 08 1-ton had a towing capacity of 16,700lbs ? and the 2011 towing capacity was 21,000lbs ?
Rusty:
You’re correct.Maybe I am the dumb one for responding.The 23,500 weight I mentioned for the ’08 is the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight – the total for truck and the trailer.Most of the time that combined weight is what gets exceeded as opposed to the towing weight and that is where my mind went - Gross Combined Weight.That combined weight limitation, according to people who know the facts, is more based on the braking capability of the truck than anything else.
The Chevy (and Ford – let’s not start that discussion {Grin}) will tow almost anything you can hitch.But it's that stopping thing that get’s the "legal" engineering types all atwitter. (Also the marketing people back when Chevy was building 4500 and 5500 trucks.)The axles and tires on the ’08 and earlier 3500 Chevy, by rating, will handle a very large pin weight without exceeding either’s rating - check them out. The engine and transmission (including transmission braking) have no problems with big heavy trailers; like 17,000lbs. But without good disc brakes on the trailer, stopping it is another matter.With good disc brakes properly set up, it works very fine and safe.
All that said, as you said, the ’08 is rated at about 16,700lbs+/- for a 5’er. That “about” part depends on crew, extended or conventional cab and naturally assumes a Duramax diesel as you indicated.
From personal experience I can tell you that the ’08 Dully will do an outstanding job for the rig you indicated. Enjoy the ride and sorry for any confusion.
Bill
Rusty said
04:32 PM Mar 2, 2011
Thanks for clearing that up. Still getting used to all the weights and what they stand for.
On another note. I was looking at exhaust breaks. If I was going to be just a touch over the combined weight and stopping was a concern. Would you want to get one ? or is the transmission on the duramax plenty ?
Thanks for all the input.
Rusty
53 Merc said
05:45 PM Mar 2, 2011
Rusty wrote:
Thanks for clearing that up. Still getting used to all the weights and what they stand for.
On another note. I was looking at exhaust breaks. If I was going to be just a touch over the combined weight and stopping was a concern. Would you want to get one ? or is the transmission on the duramax plenty ?
Thanks for all the input. Rusty
The pac brake is always a good choice.
Dr Gonzo said
09:22 PM Mar 2, 2011
Pac brake is the way to go; no more white knuckling for me!
Bill and Linda said
07:02 AM Mar 3, 2011
Rusty wrote:
On another note. I was looking at exhaust breaks. If I was going to be just a touch over the combined weight and stopping was a concern. Would you want to get one ? or is the transmission on the duramax plenty ?
Thanks for all the input. Rusty
Well, this will start something.I did a LOT of research on this subject of “exhaust brakes.”I won’t present backup for these results, I’ll just state them as posts get long enough.
I have driven a 2006, Chevy Duramax with a big trailer for almost 5 years.Yes, it is a bit over the combined weight but within specifications for all tires and axle weight ratings. (Each wheel individually weighed.) We’ve had trips to the western mountains and the Appalachians.Last year was up the Alcan to Alaska; some 11,700 towing miles for that trip.The Allison handled all the grades extremely well.I was never “concerned” nor did I ever feel like the rig was driving me.I use the Allison and manual shifting of the transmision all the time for braking, even just stopping at a rest stop.It is very strong.
Now, will my next truck have an exhaust brake? Yes, but it won’t be an “exhaust brake” like a PAC-brake or the like.It will be, to use the proper term a, “turbo brake.”Chevy and Ford use the turbo charger’s variable veins as a restrictor to the exhaust.These are much superior, in these trucks, to “exhaust brakes” which are further down the exhaust system and are not integrated into the ECM / transmission control system.According to tests the new Chevy system is really good and terribly effective.(PM me if you want some links.)
Banks makes an aftermarket product called a “Speedbrake.” They are a bit expensive but very effective and are indeed true “turbo brakes” and work exactly the same as the factory system and are integrated with the Allison. They are electronic and plug into the ECM control system.This is exactly the same system Chevrolet used on the same Duramax / Allison 4500 / 5500 series trucks for years.It isn’t black magic and it doesn’t require welding. For light duty diesels this is the way to go in my opinion, and GM’s. The new 2011 Chevy 3500’s have this as a standard feature.It works really well.
If I were putting in an aftermarket system in the Chevy '06 or ’08 and wanted the most effective system I would put in a Speedbrake.Honestly, I was going to but didn’t as I didn’t want to “touch the truck” with the Alaska trip coming up last year. The truck has been so reliable.But my next 3500 Chevy will have the factory “exhaust” (turbo) brake for sure.They’re just really nice.
My 2 cents and safe travels
Bill
MrsG said
10:00 PM Mar 25, 2014
I am also VERY confused on the whole "weight" thing. When I read the sticker with all the "weights", does the Cargo weight already include the furniture and appliances that already comes with the fiver? Should all that be considered and subtracted from what you can take? We are on our way as full-timers, so we will need to have quite a bit of weight consideration for our "things". Just trying to get a grasp on how much weight allowance is left.
Terry and Jo said
06:24 PM Mar 26, 2014
Not to chide you too much, but you might consider starting new threads instead of reviving old ones. It isn't the case this time, but sometimes reviving an old thread brings up old information that is out of date.
As for the weights, most RV's will include the standard furniture and appliances in their advertised "empty weight." If one adds new items, those items need to be considered when looking at weights. Some manufacturers will list the trailer's GVWR and empty weight, or they will list empty weight and then state what the cargo carrying capacity is. So, one has to do some figuring to determine what one can carry. For instance, we added the weight of a washer and dryer after the trailer was built, so we had to adjust for that.
When one is looking at the RV's, look for the data plate and see what the manufacturer lists as weights. Many will weigh each unit as it leaves the factory to give the owner what is sometimes called "curb weight" or just empty weight. Then, knowing what the Gross Vehicular Weight Rating for that RV is will give you the information you need, if you are looking at ones that are on the lot.
If one orders an RV, then one has to also consider each option that one chooses to put on their unit.
Terry
MrsG said
07:20 PM Mar 26, 2014
Terry and Jo wrote:
Not to chide you too much, but you might consider starting new threads instead of reviving old ones. It isn't the case this time, but sometimes reviving an old thread brings up old information that is out of date.
As for the weights, most RV's will include the standard furniture and appliances in their advertised "empty weight." If one adds new items, those items need to be considered when looking at weights. Some manufacturers will list the trailer's GVWR and empty weight, or they will list empty weight and then state what the cargo carrying capacity is. So, one has to do some figuring to determine what one can carry. For instance, we added the weight of a washer and dryer after the trailer was built, so we had to adjust for that.
When one is looking at the RV's, look for the data plate and see what the manufacturer lists as weights. Many will weigh each unit as it leaves the factory to give the owner what is sometimes called "curb weight" or just empty weight. Then, knowing what the Gross Vehicular Weight Rating for that RV is will give you the information you need, if you are looking at ones that are on the lot.
If one orders an RV, then one has to also consider each option that one chooses to put on their unit.
Terry
Sorry, wasn't sure about starting a new post or not. Didn't want to duplicate what was already up here.
waltben said
01:19 PM Mar 27, 2014
While I'm not full-timing right now, I have in the past. I'll add to the others and say you'll be carrying as much as you can, both in the trailer and in your tow vehicle. Problem is that you've got to periodically weigh the mess to find out when you've got to go on a diet (before something breaks or falls off!).
-- Edited by waltben on Thursday 27th of March 2014 01:19:44 PM
Rusty
Saw an article once that stated that most Full-timers average right around 3,000 lbs. We carry at least that much and constantly have to work to keep the weight down.
Jim
Rusty:
You’re correct. Maybe I am the dumb one for responding. The 23,500 weight I mentioned for the ’08 is the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight – the total for truck and the trailer. Most of the time that combined weight is what gets exceeded as opposed to the towing weight and that is where my mind went - Gross Combined Weight. That combined weight limitation, according to people who know the facts, is more based on the braking capability of the truck than anything else.
The Chevy (and Ford – let’s not start that discussion {Grin}) will tow almost anything you can hitch. But it's that stopping thing that get’s the "legal" engineering types all atwitter. (Also the marketing people back when Chevy was building 4500 and 5500 trucks.) The axles and tires on the ’08 and earlier 3500 Chevy, by rating, will handle a very large pin weight without exceeding either’s rating - check them out. The engine and transmission (including transmission braking) have no problems with big heavy trailers; like 17,000lbs. But without good disc brakes on the trailer, stopping it is another matter. With good disc brakes properly set up, it works very fine and safe.
All that said, as you said, the ’08 is rated at about 16,700lbs+/- for a 5’er. That “about” part depends on crew, extended or conventional cab and naturally assumes a Duramax diesel as you indicated.
From personal experience I can tell you that the ’08 Dully will do an outstanding job for the rig you indicated. Enjoy the ride and sorry for any confusion.
Bill
Well, this will start something. I did a LOT of research on this subject of “exhaust brakes.” I won’t present backup for these results, I’ll just state them as posts get long enough.
I have driven a 2006, Chevy Duramax with a big trailer for almost 5 years. Yes, it is a bit over the combined weight but within specifications for all tires and axle weight ratings. (Each wheel individually weighed.) We’ve had trips to the western mountains and the Appalachians. Last year was up the Alcan to Alaska; some 11,700 towing miles for that trip. The Allison handled all the grades extremely well. I was never “concerned” nor did I ever feel like the rig was driving me. I use the Allison and manual shifting of the transmision all the time for braking, even just stopping at a rest stop. It is very strong.
Now, will my next truck have an exhaust brake? Yes, but it won’t be an “exhaust brake” like a PAC-brake or the like. It will be, to use the proper term a, “turbo brake.” Chevy and Ford use the turbo charger’s variable veins as a restrictor to the exhaust. These are much superior, in these trucks, to “exhaust brakes” which are further down the exhaust system and are not integrated into the ECM / transmission control system. According to tests the new Chevy system is really good and terribly effective. (PM me if you want some links.)
Banks makes an aftermarket product called a “Speedbrake.” They are a bit expensive but very effective and are indeed true “turbo brakes” and work exactly the same as the factory system and are integrated with the Allison. They are electronic and plug into the ECM control system. This is exactly the same system Chevrolet used on the same Duramax / Allison 4500 / 5500 series trucks for years. It isn’t black magic and it doesn’t require welding. For light duty diesels this is the way to go in my opinion, and GM’s. The new 2011 Chevy 3500’s have this as a standard feature. It works really well.
If I were putting in an aftermarket system in the Chevy '06 or ’08 and wanted the most effective system I would put in a Speedbrake. Honestly, I was going to but didn’t as I didn’t want to “touch the truck” with the Alaska trip coming up last year. The truck has been so reliable. But my next 3500 Chevy will have the factory “exhaust” (turbo) brake for sure. They’re just really nice.
My 2 cents and safe travels
Bill
I am also VERY confused on the whole "weight" thing. When I read the sticker with all the "weights", does the Cargo weight already include the furniture and appliances that already comes with the fiver? Should all that be considered and subtracted from what you can take? We are on our way as full-timers, so we will need to have quite a bit of weight consideration for our "things". Just trying to get a grasp on how much weight allowance is left.
Not to chide you too much, but you might consider starting new threads instead of reviving old ones. It isn't the case this time, but sometimes reviving an old thread brings up old information that is out of date.
As for the weights, most RV's will include the standard furniture and appliances in their advertised "empty weight." If one adds new items, those items need to be considered when looking at weights. Some manufacturers will list the trailer's GVWR and empty weight, or they will list empty weight and then state what the cargo carrying capacity is. So, one has to do some figuring to determine what one can carry. For instance, we added the weight of a washer and dryer after the trailer was built, so we had to adjust for that.
When one is looking at the RV's, look for the data plate and see what the manufacturer lists as weights. Many will weigh each unit as it leaves the factory to give the owner what is sometimes called "curb weight" or just empty weight. Then, knowing what the Gross Vehicular Weight Rating for that RV is will give you the information you need, if you are looking at ones that are on the lot.
If one orders an RV, then one has to also consider each option that one chooses to put on their unit.
Terry
Sorry, wasn't sure about starting a new post or not. Didn't want to duplicate what was already up here.
While I'm not full-timing right now, I have in the past. I'll add to the others and say you'll be carrying as much as you can, both in the trailer and in your tow vehicle. Problem is that you've got to periodically weigh the mess to find out when you've got to go on a diet (before something breaks or falls off!).
-- Edited by waltben on Thursday 27th of March 2014 01:19:44 PM