When we were setting up the 5er yesterday I noticed a problem that has been getting gradually worse.
Whenever we disconnect we always close all the tank valves, both black and grey, and make sure the hose is empty. Put the over on the outlet and head down the road.
The last couple of times we've set up I've noticed a small trickle of water comes out when I remove the cap. It hasn't been too bad until last night when it was a big splash of what sure smelled like fluid from the black tank! YUCK! It's not a steady flow. Just a burst and then it stopped. I hooked up the hose and pulled the valves to the grey tanks.
I've seen a valve that you can add that goes on the end before you put the cap on. So you can take off the cap, hook up the hose and then pull this valve. At this point I'm thinking it will be well worth the $20 unless someone can tell me where to look for the leaky valve that is the real culprit.
Anyone out there have a similar problem or experience with the add on valve?
Paul and Jo said
08:41 AM Oct 13, 2010
Ckerr wrote: Anyone out there have a similar problem or experience with the add on valve?
I'd love to know more about that since, in my new Montana, I have a similar problem. I thought it was just all the joggling around but am not sure if it is usual or not. I open up and get about a cup coming out. I spray immediatly with 10% bleach and have my gloves on already.
What's the info on the extra valve? Would a Sewer Solution pump system also solve the problem?
Paul
Ckerr said
09:16 AM Oct 13, 2010
This is the additional valve I was thinking of adding.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/twist-on-valve/27868
I think you are correct Paul that it is the result of the jossling as the trailer travels, but it's still annoying!
The Bear II said
10:31 AM Oct 13, 2010
First let me say that the 4 RVs I had have always had a little bit of water black/grey in every valve when I remove the cap after travelling to the next destination.
Since it was worse than normal or getting progressively worse, you probably have one or two of these three issues-
The last time you closed the valve it wasn't closed all of the way
The seal has gone bad on the valve- the fix is to replace the seal or the whole valve
or there is crud built up where the valve gate seats- the fix is to begin with an empty tank and use soapy hot water and a brush to clean the valve, being sure to clean the valve seat (the groove the gate closes in to). Rinse and then use a non-water soluable lubricant on the gate, seal and in the seat.
Ckerr said
10:45 AM Oct 13, 2010
So how do I get to the valve to do the recommended cleaning?
I'm not entirely sure it's getting worse, but sure feels like it....
CAMPPAW said
01:53 PM Dec 17, 2010
I have had to replace my gate valves on my fifth wheel. After reading reviews about the chemicals we were using in our black water tank I found that some have oil base which keeps your valves lubricated, while some didn't. The one I was using at the time didn't. Sorry can't remember the products name. You'll need to research them. Also found out a BIG NO NO !!! We have a cat that camps with us. Disposing of the gifts she leaves in the litter box with cat litter, gravel type, is NOT GOOD for the seating of your valves. Causing leaks DUH!!!! Hope this gives a little heads up to cat lovers. Jerry n Patsy
My fifth wheel has a second floor which encloses the holding tanks. I had to drop this floor down to gain access to the valves . It was a JOB!!!.by myself. Good Luck
-- Edited by CAMPPAW on Friday 17th of December 2010 03:11:43 PM
James and Cindy said
05:07 PM Dec 17, 2010
I just bought this valve for a different reason. We have 2 40 gallon grey tanks. The shower always fills up and the kitchen never comes close. This helps me equalize the water level. It worked well for our first trip trying it out. I close the grey valves before opening the black so it can't backfeed. This was easier then cutting and gluing a new valve inline. I have a clear pipe on the end of my sewage so that I never have a surprise when hooking up the hose also you know when the tanks are clean and empty. James
pierreandcolleen said
11:13 AM Dec 18, 2010
We had a similar problem with a leaky sewer valve. The first time it happened it was under warranty so we had the RV dealership fix it. But somewhere along our trip it broke again so we added what I believe is the twist on valve mentioned earlier. That has worked great and we haven't had any other problems.
-Colleen
Ann-Hank said
10:22 PM Apr 1, 2013
Very timely thread. We also have been having leaky valves, and non working gauges. Last Thursday we had Lon from All Pro Water -Flow of central Oregon clean our tanks. He uses a high pressure hydro jet to flush out the tanks. It took about 2 hours and cost $175. And he came to the park we are at, about an hour drive each way. He uses a camera (scope) to check and make sure everything is clean. He was very informative, explaining what he was doing, why and how to best maintain our tanks. Now we have no leaks and all our gauges are functioning.
Ann
-- Edited by Ann-Hank on Monday 1st of April 2013 10:23:28 PM
whatzleft said
12:53 AM Apr 2, 2013
Its very easy to replace the valve.... you can buy a kit, comes with gate slide, and gaskets. Just undo four bolts, slide the valve out, and put the new gaskets on and slide the new valve back in place and tighten 4 bolts... presto it's done. Took me about 15 minutes. The main flanges stay on the sewer pipe, it's just sliding the valve out. If you have another person helping that can help pull the pipe alittle, it makes it much easier, but I worked mine by myself. Think I paid 15 bucks for it.
You can find them at any rv place, or oder online. There are many videos on youtube.... I thought about the add on valve, but well..... it didn't actually FIX my leak, and the replacement valve was cheaper. hmmm.... I have yet to see a leak fix itself. I'm actually going to replace my galley and grey tank valves sense I have an aolder camper and they are kinda hard to pull. Once I replaced the sewer valve, I can open it it one finger, and just push it close.... like brand new. Really not a hard fix. Hope this hlps
Lucky Mike said
01:43 AM Apr 2, 2013
if the gasket is hardening , add a cup of cooking oil to your holding tanks after emptying right before pulling out it will settle on the valve gaskets and lubricate them.....or add coconut oil to your grey water tanks
Trabuco said
01:52 AM Apr 2, 2013
I just replaced both valve assemblies because they were getting a little hard to operate. I think I paid a total of $28 for both valves and about 30 minutes to install. The new ones are so much easier to to open and close. The old ones were 8 years old and were starting to get a build up on them making them hard to operate. Replacing the valve assemblies every so often, 5 years or so is worth it.
Terry and Jo said
02:27 AM Apr 2, 2013
This thread was originally posted back in 2010. I imagine that they have already fixed their valve.
Remember to look at the date of posting to keep from reviving an old post that has probably already seen a solution done.
Terry
Lucky Mike said
02:49 AM Apr 2, 2013
you sure Terry........It's april fools day day and I'm not falling for it....(I've been duped again!!)
whatzleft said
03:12 AM Apr 2, 2013
good thread worth a bump I thought....
Trabuco said
03:53 AM Apr 2, 2013
I agree it is a good thread!
Terry and Jo said
04:21 AM Apr 2, 2013
No doubt that it is a good thread, but many times a thread is revived and includes old information that new readers think is still valid information, but may not be. When a thread is revived just because it has good information in it, we as moderators still have to review them to see if the newer posts are really pertinent. I've seen a few where a thread was revived with just a comment such as, "good idea" and nothing new is contributed to the prior discussion. With those, I've deleted the last, reviving post and allowed it to go back into an archive state.
Other threads have been replied to with an answer to the original poster's question or comment and that original poster is no longer an active participant, thus not likely to see the answer by the new poster.
All of those threads are still retrievable with the use of the "Search" function, and it is a good thing for them to be available to all. Not that it would likely happen very soon here, but I do participate on another forum where they go in and delete threads after they have "reached a certain age," based on the date of the original post.
Whenever we disconnect we always close all the tank valves, both black and grey, and make sure the hose is empty. Put the over on the outlet and head down the road.
The last couple of times we've set up I've noticed a small trickle of water comes out when I remove the cap. It hasn't been too bad until last night when it was a big splash of what sure smelled like fluid from the black tank! YUCK! It's not a steady flow. Just a burst and then it stopped. I hooked up the hose and pulled the valves to the grey tanks.
I've seen a valve that you can add that goes on the end before you put the cap on. So you can take off the cap, hook up the hose and then pull this valve. At this point I'm thinking it will be well worth the $20 unless someone can tell me where to look for the leaky valve that is the real culprit.
Anyone out there have a similar problem or experience with the add on valve?
I'd love to know more about that since, in my new Montana, I have a similar problem. I thought it was just all the joggling around but am not sure if it is usual or not. I open up and get about a cup coming out. I spray immediatly with 10% bleach and have my gloves on already.
What's the info on the extra valve? Would a Sewer Solution pump system also solve the problem?
Paul
Hope this gives a little heads up to cat lovers. Jerry n Patsy
My fifth wheel has a second floor which encloses the holding tanks. I had to drop this floor down to gain access to the valves . It was a JOB!!!.by myself. Good Luck
-- Edited by CAMPPAW on Friday 17th of December 2010 03:11:43 PM
James
Very timely thread. We also have been having leaky valves, and non working gauges. Last Thursday we had Lon from All Pro Water -Flow of central Oregon clean our tanks. He uses a high pressure hydro jet to flush out the tanks. It took about 2 hours and cost $175. And he came to the park we are at, about an hour drive each way. He uses a camera (scope) to check and make sure everything is clean. He was very informative, explaining what he was doing,
why and how to best maintain our tanks. Now we have no leaks and all our gauges are functioning.
Ann
-- Edited by Ann-Hank on Monday 1st of April 2013 10:23:28 PM
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00648397000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kispla=00648397000P&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=30-145091315-2
You can find them at any rv place, or oder online. There are many videos on youtube.... I thought about the add on valve, but well..... it didn't actually FIX my leak, and the replacement valve was cheaper. hmmm.... I have yet to see a leak fix itself. I'm actually going to replace my galley and grey tank valves sense I have an aolder camper and they are kinda hard to pull. Once I replaced the sewer valve, I can open it it one finger, and just push it close.... like brand new. Really not a hard fix. Hope this hlps
This thread was originally posted back in 2010. I imagine that they have already fixed their valve.
Remember to look at the date of posting to keep from reviving an old post that has probably already seen a solution done.
Terry
No doubt that it is a good thread, but many times a thread is revived and includes old information that new readers think is still valid information, but may not be. When a thread is revived just because it has good information in it, we as moderators still have to review them to see if the newer posts are really pertinent. I've seen a few where a thread was revived with just a comment such as, "good idea" and nothing new is contributed to the prior discussion. With those, I've deleted the last, reviving post and allowed it to go back into an archive state.
Other threads have been replied to with an answer to the original poster's question or comment and that original poster is no longer an active participant, thus not likely to see the answer by the new poster.
All of those threads are still retrievable with the use of the "Search" function, and it is a good thing for them to be available to all. Not that it would likely happen very soon here, but I do participate on another forum where they go in and delete threads after they have "reached a certain age," based on the date of the original post.
Terry