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Paul Weaver
2005 Phaeton QDH
2005 Jeep Liberty
Full-timing since 10/2009
formally from Canton, OH
BLOG: http://wheresweaver.blogspot.com/

Looks very nice, a job well done. I'd love to do the same thing with my Norcold. Thanks for sharing.

I thought that RVs had to have a certain rv-type refrigerator due to the fact of it running on battery power when going down the road. 

A residiential-type can be transfer over to battery too? 

Just curious as I investigate....

No, the residential frig does not go to battery. The confusion lies in that most RV frigs use 12 volt battery power to maintain the control circuit so the frig will use propane to provide the heat required to push the gaseous ammonia through an orifice to remove heat. There are some 3 way units that use 12 volt power to power the boiler, but not most of 'em. Using a powerful inverter to change 12 volt to 110 V is another way, but it takes lots of battery to run the compressor on a residential frig through the inverter. Died in the wool, hard core boondockers have solar and inverters to do just about anything they want. Whole 'nother world when they get involved. Talking about watts used, watts from a panel, battery usage, storage capacity, etc. I just glaze over, cause I am an electrical newbie when they get going. Howard talked about it a lot when they were at Arches a couple of years ago. Search him out.

Nice job! Looks good. How much additional battery power are you going to need to make that thing work while rolling?

Nice job Paul. I've been wondering it that's a feasible change to make as we are MH shopping and you've shown it is. Thanks for sharing!

Job well done, it looks great!

Jo

I will eventually install a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter just for the fridge. I may also install AGM batteries or two additional flooded batteries. Now I simple run the generator for an hour after 3 hours on the road....that keeps it plenty cool. The batteries will only be needed if boondocking....overnight cooling! Thanks for the interest and the compliments. Paul

Very neat job. Quick question though. What was the purpose of changing it out. It does not seem that it is bigger than the old one. Is it that it has lower temps? Thanks

The Norcold was 12 cuft....the residential is 21.8 cuft. A HUGE difference. The Norcold died....a "no...co" code. Check back a couple entries in our blog and you'll see where it died. We are very pleased with the switch...thanks for the interest.

Wow, almost double the capacity in what seems to be the same amount of space. Thanks for the reply.

Nice job!  How hard was it to remove the window frame and replace it?  Was it screwed in place or what?

Yes, it's screwed-in with about 30 screws (from the inside).  It came out with no problem....easier than expected.  Went back in easy too!!!

Did you use the same electrical plug the Norcold was plugged into or have to change it out.  We are in the process of doing the same thing you did for the same reason.   Have already thrown the Norcold out the window and new fridge will be delivered on Thursday giving us a couple of days to make the few changes we have to make to allow for heighth.  Our new fridge is a Kenmore 19 CF from Sears.



-- Edited by galeanna on Monday 4th of October 2010 08:27:35 PM

Our old frige (Norcold 1200) was wired with two electrical outlets in the rear access area. One to the inverter and one for the ice maker NOT hooked to the inverter. Our inverter is a modified sine wave inverter. You should not plug the RR into a modified inverter....we will add a pure sine wave inverter in the near future dedicated only to the refrigerator ($$$$). We therefore plugged into the NON-inverter receptacle. This also runs off the generator. Hope this helps.....good luck! Paul

Are you sure the ice maker was not on the inverter and the fridge not? That sounds backwards to how I have seen it done.

I'm not sure Bill. All I know for sure is I don't want the RR on the modified sine wave inverter. I understand the ice & water in the RR door is what goes fooie with the modified sine wave inverter.

Gale & Anna....thanks for the reply.... but we're talking RR (Residential Refrigerator) that means all electric. I believe you are referring to a RV fridge like Norcold or Dometic. You had a good reference to unplugging and checking the electrical receptacle in the fridge access area. That's what I did to find which one was NOT on the inverter. Unplugged and turned on the inverter....the one without the power was the one NOT on the inverter. Thanks for the reply Paul