This our first and I wish our last winter here in the cold for the fifth wheel. Please, can you explain how to winterize it? I know we have to blow air and put some antifreeze but, I would LOVE details. This is our first time...
Workinrvers said
08:17 AM Sep 16, 2010
You need to find out if your water heater has a bypass valve kit on it or not, if not you can purchase one and install it to make things easier.
I have always intalled both of these on my rigs (current rig came with both already from the factory). I drain all the water lines by opening the low point drains that are usually located under the rig at some point (make sure you close these drains back off before pumping in the antifreeze). Look for 2 clear plastic hoses hanging down. I then drain the water heater by removing the plug/anode rod, make sure the water heater is off and you release the pressure by lifting the lever on the pressure valve on the outside water heater compartment before removing the plug. Next I bypass the water heater using the above listed bypass valve. I then pump the pink antifreeze through the system using the pump converter kit. It's makes it so simple, just turn the valve and stick the clear hose into the antifreeze jug, turn the pump on and start opening faucets one at a time until you see the pink stuff running through.
Make sure you turn on each faucet both hot and cold (one at time) as well as the toilet and don't forget if you have an outside shower you will need to do that as well.
I then pour some of the antifreeze down each drain to make sure the traps all have antifreeze in them. I usually used between 2 and 3 gallons of the antifreeze for the entire job.
We always leave the fridge door open to avoid any mold and we scatter Bounce dryer sheets all around and into the cabinets and storage areas to deter mice.
That is pretty much it. I have done it this way for around 20 years on various rigs here in Indiana and have never had a problem.
Hope this helps some.
Phil
ps: the 2 bypass systems I linked to are really easy to install, if I can do it anyone can.
-- Edited by Phil Bob on Thursday 16th of September 2010 08:20:42 AM
-- Edited by Phil Bob on Thursday 16th of September 2010 08:23:14 AM
Colorado_Kid said
09:59 PM Sep 23, 2010
Just out of curiousity what can go wrong if you have winterizer in your water tank and water heater? Not that I will try it but from other posts on here and other forums this is one big no-no.
TXRVr said
10:58 PM Sep 23, 2010
All of the suggestions about using antifreeze are valid, but on the back end of that process, it has to be “pumped” out of the systems before you use the rig for the next season. That makes the job twice as much work as it needs to be.
Damage to the plumbing and fixtures can only happen if there is water to be frozen and there is no room for it to expand against a surface on which it sits. With the exception of an inside water filter and P traps, most all of the water can be drained from the rig by simply opening all of the drain valves and removing the water heater plug.If those valves are left open, then water will evaporate from the lines and tanks. What little water that is left when frozen cannot expand sufficiently to press against any surface and cause damage.
You can winterize a sink P-trap by either removing it from the line and dumping the water then reinstalling or by just pouring some antifreeze in it. The in house water filter has to be dumped because there isn’t way for the water in it to evaporate.
With the exception of the shower P-trap, I have never used antifreeze in my rigs. I’ve winterized using the evaporation method for 15 years.
flyone said
11:15 AM Sep 24, 2010
Colorado Kid; If you use RV anti-freeze it is non-toxic. The big draw back to having it in your fresh water tank and water heater is the taste that lingers for weeks. You could of course get rid of the taste by flushing heavily but it is eaiser to avoid the situation. PS: if you do this make sure the AF you use is non-toxic.
Flyone
53 Merc said
07:56 AM Sep 26, 2010
All the previous suggestions are correct, however, I prefer one that says, hook up and search for warmer climes. South Texas, Arizona, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida or some combination of them.
However, if you can't do this, just air blow all lines, open low point drains, pull the plug from the water heater, and leave the winterizer anti freeze at the store. For the frig, to keep the door from possibly warping due to hanging open, get some old nylons, put a pound of ground coffee in two of them and put one in the frig and one in the freezer after giving them enough time to completely dry out then close the doors.
janni said
08:59 AM Sep 26, 2010
Another vote for last post by 53 Merc. Two years ago leaving ND we used the "pink stuff" and left in below zero temps. Not sure what we could have done wrong but hired a repair in Las Cruces. Bought a small air comp and would never do it any other way. I also have to give the thumbs up to the coffee suggestion. Had a smell in refrigerator once and tried everything on the market and internet to get it out. Placed two paper plates with grounds on the shelf and closed the door. Couple days later the smell was gone. It works!
Gary said
06:32 AM Sep 27, 2010
I have a friend that winterizes his boat with cheap vodka. Uses a couple of gallons, pumps it through the system and done. In spring, he flushes the system and is good to go.
TXRvr's solution seems like it would be the easiest though. Just drain the system dry and put it away! Then again, just staying where you won't get below freezing would be best. Chase the weather!
You need to find out if your water heater has a bypass valve kit on it or not, if not you can purchase one and install it to make things easier.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717
I have also installed one of these kits on my pump which also saves a lot of time and avoids getting any antifreeze into your fresh water tank.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/pump-converter-winterizer-kit/6279
I have always intalled both of these on my rigs (current rig came with both already from the factory).
I drain all the water lines by opening the low point drains that are usually located under the rig at some point (make sure you close these drains back off before pumping in the antifreeze). Look for 2 clear plastic hoses hanging down. I then drain the water heater by removing the plug/anode rod, make sure the water heater is off and you release the pressure by lifting the lever on the pressure valve on the outside water heater compartment before removing the plug.
Next I bypass the water heater using the above listed bypass valve.
I then pump the pink antifreeze through the system using the pump converter kit. It's makes it so simple, just turn the valve and stick the clear hose into the antifreeze jug, turn the pump on and start opening faucets one at a time until you see the pink stuff running through.
Make sure you turn on each faucet both hot and cold (one at time) as well as the toilet and don't forget if you have an outside shower you will need to do that as well.
I then pour some of the antifreeze down each drain to make sure the traps all have antifreeze in them. I usually used between 2 and 3 gallons of the antifreeze for the entire job.
We always leave the fridge door open to avoid any mold and we scatter Bounce dryer sheets all around and into the cabinets and storage areas to deter mice.
That is pretty much it. I have done it this way for around 20 years on various rigs here in Indiana and have never had a problem.
Hope this helps some.
Phil
ps: the 2 bypass systems I linked to are really easy to install, if I can do it anyone can.
-- Edited by Phil Bob on Thursday 16th of September 2010 08:20:42 AM
-- Edited by Phil Bob on Thursday 16th of September 2010 08:23:14 AM
All of the suggestions about using antifreeze are valid, but on the back end of that process, it has to be “pumped” out of the systems before you use the rig for the next season. That makes the job twice as much work as it needs to be.
Damage to the plumbing and fixtures can only happen if there is water to be frozen and there is no room for it to expand against a surface on which it sits. With the exception of an inside water filter and P traps, most all of the water can be drained from the rig by simply opening all of the drain valves and removing the water heater plug. If those valves are left open, then water will evaporate from the lines and tanks. What little water that is left when frozen cannot expand sufficiently to press against any surface and cause damage.
You can winterize a sink P-trap by either removing it from the line and dumping the water then reinstalling or by just pouring some antifreeze in it. The in house water filter has to be dumped because there isn’t way for the water in it to evaporate.
With the exception of the shower P-trap, I have never used antifreeze in my rigs. I’ve winterized using the evaporation method for 15 years.
Flyone