Just moved from Missouri to Kansas and discovered the fridge won't run on LP. It's a NorCold and the led display shows "no FL". Leak detector is ok, and stove works ok, so it's not because there's no LP. Fridge works fine on a/c power. Anybody have this problem and know what might cause it?
Roz said
05:46 AM Aug 27, 2009
Welcome to the club, Dan!
We had the same issue with our Norcold - first problem in three years. A good RV tech went straight to the source of the issue and remedied it quickly and inexpensively.
He stated it was a "problem" in the propane delivery tube. He did not indicated what the stoppage was, but it has worked perfectly since.
As an aside, it has taken me 60+ years to accept I do not need to know everything. I am quite satisfied that it was "inexpensive and quickly resolved". LOL
Hope your experience is as good as mine.
NorCal Dan said
08:23 AM Aug 27, 2009
Ok, thanks for that, gives me something to look for...I haven't checked into local repair facilities here yet...
Terry and Jo said
10:56 AM Aug 27, 2009
My very limited experience with camper refrigerators came to me this summer, just prior to taking our vacation. (We're in Colorado now.)
We had a problem in that our refrigerator wouldn't work on LP, although ours is a Dometic and does not have any kind of display that can indicate a problem. So we took it into the dealer and had it checked out.
They told me two things:
1. If one has a bottle, or both bottles filled, air can be introduced to the system. We were told to turn on a couple of our range burners to have the opportunity to purge the lines of air. So, if you changed bottles, maybe air is in your line to the refrigerator.
2. Not likely a problem in your case since you have gas to your stove, but I'll mention it for the benefit of others. When a valve on a bottle is first opened, one needs to open it slowly. Apparently, the new style of valves have a more sensitive check valve that is designed to close if it detects a sudden rush of gas escaping through the valve.
Terry
Old Snipe said
11:09 AM Aug 27, 2009
On the back of the fridge, there is a burner tube that goes into a box (about 3"x5") with a small, postage stamp sized door that swings on a screw. Slide open the door and use low pressure air and blow into it.
Sometimes the burner behind the door gets some debis on it, either from a spider web, or some rust and/or dust that drops down from the chimney, causing the fridge not to light.
It only takes a few minutes to do this and it's worth a try before you have to dig further. It has worked for me several times over the years.
Best Regards!
NorCal Dan said
01:52 PM Aug 28, 2009
I grab the flashlight and head out to check the fridge...take the panel off outside and look for the postage stamp size swinging door...there it is, and it's open. I take a look inside and don't see anything that shouldn't be there, so I close it.
Head back inside the coach and set the fridge to just LP mode. No beeping...wait 5 minutes, no beeping. Head outside and the burner is on and working. Put cover back on the fridge.
Set fridge back to AC mode.
So, not sure what happened but it seems to be working now. Maybe that door being open prevented the burner from lighting? I dunno, but glad it's working again. Thanks all the suggestions and things to look for...
Gummy said
04:41 PM Aug 28, 2009
Dan That burner tube and the orifice that the gas comes through just prior to the burner needs to be cleaned at least once per year. While doing this, blow air up through the flue as well and when cleaning the orifice NEVER stick anything in the small hole to clean it out. Tap it on something or blow air through it to dislodge any debris. That little swing door was most likely allowing to much air in to the burner tube and wasn't letting the electric spark to ignite the gas, and the thermocouple wasn't sensing heat and kept closing the gas valve. Hope this helps. Gummy
ahoweth said
11:56 AM Aug 29, 2009
It sounds like you had some debree on the burner or on the igniter. Some times the least motion can dislodge it and the burner will light once again. It might be a good idea to check out the bottom of the box where the flame is to see if there is debree on the bottom of the box. There probably is. I personally have had the burner fail to light because a small piece of carbon happened to fall and land directly between the electrode of the igniter and the burner tube, stopping it from generating the arc which ignites the propane. The carbon flakes are very light and very fragile and the act of removing the fridge cover could have dislodged it.
NorCal Dan said
01:06 PM Aug 29, 2009
All great suggestions. Anybody have a link that tells/shows how to perform the annual cleaning?
We had the same issue with our Norcold - first problem in three years. A good RV tech went straight to the source of the issue and remedied it quickly and inexpensively.
He stated it was a "problem" in the propane delivery tube. He did not indicated what the stoppage was, but it has worked perfectly since.
As an aside, it has taken me 60+ years to accept I do not need to know everything. I am quite satisfied that it was "inexpensive and quickly resolved". LOL
Hope your experience is as good as mine.
We had a problem in that our refrigerator wouldn't work on LP, although ours is a Dometic and does not have any kind of display that can indicate a problem. So we took it into the dealer and had it checked out.
They told me two things:
1. If one has a bottle, or both bottles filled, air can be introduced to the system. We were told to turn on a couple of our range burners to have the opportunity to purge the lines of air. So, if you changed bottles, maybe air is in your line to the refrigerator.
2. Not likely a problem in your case since you have gas to your stove, but I'll mention it for the benefit of others. When a valve on a bottle is first opened, one needs to open it slowly. Apparently, the new style of valves have a more sensitive check valve that is designed to close if it detects a sudden rush of gas escaping through the valve.
Terry