Glass: It's been my experience that some converters believe the rubber around the windshield and side windows is a complete seal in itself--that if a glass is removed and replaced it won't leak. That is NOT true. Butyl sealer is required between the glass and the rubber gasket. It must be pumped in between the two, to the manufacturer's specifications. In heavy rain (30 minutes into it), inspect the inside bottom of the glass at the rubber to see if there is any sign of water. It should be dry. Obviously, each side should be checked individually based on the direction of the weather.
Roof: The converter puts several holes in the roof-skin of your coach. Those openings were sealed when new, but years of sun and weather deteriorate the sealant and leaks could develop. You may not know if it's leaking over and behind panels. Have your roof inspected and resealed as necessary whenever you visit the service department. It's not a big job and can prevent serious damage later.
Tires: Wash your tires, too! They get more dirt and grime than the rest of the vehicle. Keeping them clean will prolong their life. Never use dishwashing detergent on them or anywhere else on any vehicle. It damages oil based items by drying them out. Be careful of what you put on your tires. Some dressings actually damage the rubber. Check with the tire manufacturer for approved products.
Drip marks: down the side of your stainless steel from rain? Isopropyl alcohol wipes them away. I use a white terrycloth towel moistened with the alcohol. No steak-easy clean!
Ants and Roaches: When parked in a susceptible area (Florida for instance), I spread fire-ant granules under the coach. It's inexpensive, comes in a big bag that doesn't weigh much, and keeps all the non-airborne insects away. It works on grass or concrete.
Ants: When laying out your electrical cord and hose, set them out from the coach straight vertical. That is; with two 90 degree bends. Ants won't go where they can't carry food. Although they can walk straight up they can't carry straight up. They need a slope to walk up carrying food. Sprinkle Comet cleanser (or fire ant graduals), under and around the lines where they hit the ground or spray them with insecticide if you like. I found that to be unnecessary if the cords were laid out as indicated here.
Safety: Never open the door for anybody you haven't confirmed you know, even if they call you by name. Did you leave your name plate in the windshield at the road-side rest area?
Safety: Never drive off from an overnight stop without checking everything to do with tires and the tow car connections. Jealous people and vandals do weird things. I don't stay in neighborhood parking lots--Wall-mart, K-mart, etc., because of vandals-pranksters without a complete walk-around before departing.
Maintenance: Never leave the black water dump valve open. Always wait until the tank is at least half full before dumping. Leaving the valve open causes the liquid to drain and the solids to build up where they drop into the tank and all the way down the hose. Not enough water is used in motorhome toilets to flush everything all the way to the sewer connection each time.
Maintenance: Do you have an auxiliary air compressor on board? Have you drained the water lately? It should be done regularly so the moisture doesn't get into air valves and controls. Its especially important to do that frequently in high humidity areas.
Speedhitch said
11:26 AM Jul 7, 2008
Thanks Prevost...this is the kind of stuff we need more of. It helps the newbees and some of us Oldies.. Anyone have something to add to this jump in and help us out.
Thanks
Joe and Sherri
flyone said
12:09 PM Jul 7, 2008
Great post--loads of info. My solution to the ant problem is as follows--I keep a box of moist bug repellant towelettes in my outdoor storage compartment, when I'm plugging in the shore cord I pull one out wrap it around the cord just as it goes into the coach and then shut the cord hatch. Then when I'm ready to leave I use the towelette to wipe down and clean the shore cord. One towelette last about a week. So far (knock on wood) this has worked well for me.
Glass: It's been my experience that some converters believe the rubber around the windshield and side windows is a complete seal in itself--that if a glass is removed and replaced it won't leak. That is NOT true. Butyl sealer is required between the glass and the rubber gasket. It must be pumped in between the two, to the manufacturer's specifications. In heavy rain (30 minutes into it), inspect the inside bottom of the glass at the rubber to see if there is any sign of water. It should be dry. Obviously, each side should be checked individually based on the direction of the weather.
Roof: The converter puts several holes in the roof-skin of your coach. Those openings were sealed when new, but years of sun and weather deteriorate the sealant and leaks could develop. You may not know if it's leaking over and behind panels. Have your roof inspected and resealed as necessary whenever you visit the service department. It's not a big job and can prevent serious damage later.
Tires: Wash your tires, too! They get more dirt and grime than the rest of the vehicle. Keeping them clean will prolong their life. Never use dishwashing detergent on them or anywhere else on any vehicle. It damages oil based items by drying them out. Be careful of what you put on your tires. Some dressings actually damage the rubber. Check with the tire manufacturer for approved products.
Drip marks: down the side of your stainless steel from rain? Isopropyl alcohol wipes them away. I use a white terrycloth towel moistened with the alcohol. No steak-easy clean!
Ants and Roaches: When parked in a susceptible area (Florida for instance), I spread fire-ant granules under the coach. It's inexpensive, comes in a big bag that doesn't weigh much, and keeps all the non-airborne insects away. It works on grass or concrete.
Bob